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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 41 - Contains the roll bar, front and rear drive shafts and screws.
Engage the shorter drive shaft into the drive cup of the front differential.
Place the centre gear box into the centre of the chassis so that the disc brake is facing towards the front of the chassis, then fit the opposite end of the drive shaft into the drive cup of the centre gearbox.
Take the rear (longer) drive shaft, and repeat the rocess to fit the shaft between the centre gearbox and rear differential.
Holding the cente gearbox in place, turn over the chassis and secure the gearbox with four 4x16mm screws.
Fit the roll bar as shown, then secure it into the gearbox with two 3x10mm binding screws, and secure it onto the chass with two 3x10mm countersunk screws through the chassis underside. Turn the screws to engage with nuts set into the bottom of the roll bar on the chassis upper side.
This completes ths stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 42 - Contains parts to make the front track rods.
Add a ball end to the end to each ernd of the set screw as shown. (instead of using pliers to grip the screw as shown, you can fit allen key into one end of the screw).
Set the track rods in the closed position (no central gap), this allows a small toe-in of the front wheels.
Adjustment for mor toe-in can be set by unscrewing the ball ends, equally on both sides of the model and that the central space is set the same.
Fit a pillow ball to each ball end, then add the ball end fittings to one end of each track rod as shown.
Fit the track rods onto the steering plate as shown in the central position and secure with a lock nut on the upper side. Then secure the opposite end of the track rod onto the wheel hub with a screw and secure with a nut on the under side of the hub arm.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 43 - Contains the fuel tank, fuel line and fittings.
Cut the fuel tube into two equal lengths of 11cms each, (retain the offcut for use in stage 48).
Fit one length at the base of the tank at the rear (fuel line), and the other onto the tank lid (pressure line).
Fit the fuel tank posts onto the chassis as shown.
Fit the fuel tank mount screws onto the tank, add an O ring on the underside, then secure the tank onto the mount posts.
The tank mount screws should not be tightened to fully compress the O-rings, but the seat snuggly on top of them.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 44 - ContaIns the chassis bumper mounts.
Fit the side bumpers in place and secure with four scews/nuts into each, but leave then slighty loose so that the bumper can be adjusted. This is to allow adjustment of the body when it is fitted at Stage 51, where the side bumper screws will be tightened.
You will need to remove the underside front and rear gearbox screws to enable the fitting of the front and rear bumper - The same screws are used to secure the bumpers.
Fit the front and rear bumper and carefully store the rear bumper base for future use.
This completes pack 11.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 45 - Contains a battery box, switch harness and antenna tube.
The battery box and switch harness will be required at Stage 48.
There is no assembly to do for stage 45, but the instructions contain information about the items provided with this stage.
Carefully store the antenna tube for later use.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 46 - Contains the radio box, screws, R clips, throttle & steering link parts and brake rod parts.
Lay out the parts of the radio box and note which part is which:
Box upper, box lower and lid, also make a note of their orientation, as this is the position in which they will be fitted onto the chassis.
Inspect the underside of the radio box upper. There are four sets of screw holes lining the rectangular openings.
Line up the radio box lower with the six holes circled on the surface of the chassis, then secure the box wiith six 3x10mm self-tapping screw.
Be sure to keep all the unused parts in a plastic bag safely, marked for reference.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 47 - Contains a steering servo, horn and screw.
Parts required from Stage 46: Radio box, Steering rod, 3x10mm self-tapping screws x4, 3x3mm set screw.
Retrieve the steering link parts from Stage 46. Lay out the steering rod, four 3x10mm binding-head self-tapping screws, and a 3x3mm set screw.
Hold the radio box upper so that its underside is facing up, then place the steering servo into the rectangular space so that the screw holes on both parts line up.
Use four 3x10mm binding-head self-tapping screws to secure the servo as shown in the instructions.
Fitting the steering rod:
Fit the steering rod into the steering horn as shown, then press the horn onto the output shaft of the servo so that it sits snugly and level to the edge of the box . Place the 2.6x10mm servo horn screw into the hole in the centre of the servo horn, then tighten with a screwdriver, but as this is only a temporary assembly, do not tighten fully.
Hold the radio box to the front right of the chassis assembly. Insert the free end of the steering rod into the front right servo saver.
Carefully lower the radio box (upper) onto the lower section fitted in the previous stage. The parts should fit together snugly.
Inspect the lay of the steering rod - The rod should be almost straight, with the steering servo at right angles to the edge of the radio box. This set-up is known as the ‘neutral’ position.
Place the next 3x3mm set screw (provided in Stage 46) onto the tip of the 1.5mm Allen key, then apply a little threadlocking agent to the screw, and locate the set screw into the hole in the arm of the servo saver into which the steering rod is fitted. Tighten the set screw, but only lightly at this stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 48 - Contains the throttle servo, horn and screw.
Parts required from Stage 46:
Radio box lid
2x8mm self-tapping screw
3x3mm set screws x2
R pins x2
Brake rod
Throttle linkage rod
Throttle ball end
3x10mm binding-head self-tapping screws x10
Throttle spring
2mm stoppers x2
Linkage base
Brake collar
Radio box collars x2
2mm washer
Silicon tube offcut from Stage 43
Battery box & switch harness Stage 45
Take the throttle rod and screw the throttle ball end onto the threaded tip of the rod.
Take the brake rod, line up the tip of shaped end of the rod with the outer hole on the servo horn. Make sure you have the servo horn the right way round, with the recessed circle in the central portion facing upwards.
Insert a 2x8mm self-tapping into the stepped/recessed hole in the centre of the linkage base, then place a 2mm washer over the protruding tip of the screw at the other side of the linkage base. Making sure the washerand screw do not fall out, place the tip of the screw into the hole on the side of the horn, then tighten with a screwdriver, but only up to the point where the linkage base can still be rotated slightly
Make sure that the screw is loose enough that you can move the linkage base back and forth a little, but tight enough to stop the part rattling.
Prepare the throttle linkage rod assembly - Slide the throttle spring over the free end of the rod. Making sure the spring does not fall off, insert the free tip of the rod into the hole in the side of the linkage base. Push the throttle linkage rod through the linkage base until the spring rests against the side of the linkage base.
Take the excess silicon tube retained from Stage 43, and use scissors to cut the tubing 43 in half. Slide one of the lengths of silicon tubing over the free end of the throttle linkage rod. Slide the tube along until
it rest against the side of the linkage base.
Place the first 3x3mm set screw onto the tip of the 1.5mm Allen key. Apply a little thread-locking agent, then begin to tighten into the hole in the side of the 2mm stopper. Turn the set screwinto the hole, but stop before it enters the central hole. Leave the Allen key in place, then slide the 2mm stopper over the free end of the throttle linkage rod. Push the 2mm stopper along the rod until it rests against the silicon tubing fitted. Secure the stopper in place by tightening the set screw with the Allen key.
Use side cutters to remove the curved tip at the right side of the servo horn. Follow the dotted line in the step image.
Very carefully remove the temporarily fixed radio box top from the chassis assembly (Stage 47). To do this, you will need to unscrew the set screw holding the steering rod in place.
Hold the radio box top with its underside facing upwards, with the throttle servo in your other hand, with the circular output shaft at the top of the box. Place the servo through the hole in the radio box
top so that the screw holes line up to each other.
Adjust the servo so that it fits neatly into the hole, with all the screw holes lined up directly, then secure the servo with four 3x10mm binding-head self-tapping screws. Make sure that the servo is set perfectly straight into the hole in the radio box top.
Pass the cable coming out of the steering servo along the gap between the throttle servo and out to the back of the radio box top. Lower the radio box top onto the box bottom fitted to the main chassis. The holes
along the edge of the box top should line up with those on the box bottom.
Place a 3x10mm bindinghead self-tapping screw into the first of the holes along the edge of the radio box, then tighten the screw gently with a screwdriver. Tighten each of the remaining five screws into the remaining holes lining the radio box. Once all six screws are in, tighten each to fully fasten the box.
Carefully re-insert the steering rod into the front servo saver, then tighten the set screw again to secure the parts. The steering rod should be left in the ‘neutral’ position (see Step 24, Stage 47).
Holding the parts in place, turn the chassis assembly and tighten the 3mm nylon nut on the underside of the servo saver using the arm of the cross wrench marked '5.5'. Prepare the second 2mm stopper and 3mm set
screw in the same way as you did in Steps 19 and 20. Place the assembly over the free end of the brake rod.
Slide the 2mm stopper down to the base of the brake rod. Then, slide over the remaining length of silicon tubing, followed by the brake collar. The brake collar should be put on with the flat side facing the silicon tube. Push all parts along so they rest against each other, as shown. Do not tighten the set screw in the 2mm stopper at this stage.
Insert the free end of the brake rod into the brake lever. With the brake rod still attached through the brake lever, place the throttle servo horn onto the throttle servo. The servo horn should sit perfectly at right angles to the edge of the radio box. Push the servo horn down so that it slots into place, with the output shaft on the top of the servo beneath. At this stage, the brake rod will be set at an angle.
Place the 2.6x10mm servo horn into the central hole of the servo horn, then tighten with a screwdriver. This is a temporary assembly, so only tighten lightly at this stage.
Hold the brake lever level (see dotted lines), then push the stopper, silicon tube and brake collar up against the hoop of the brake lever. Once in position, tighten the 3mm set screw with the 1.5mm Allen key to secure the parts.
Prepare the sitch harness and battery box supplied with Stage 45, and join the connectors of both. There is only one way the connectors will fit correctly.
Place the switch and battery box inside the space at the rear of the radio box, (it is not necessary at this stage to connect the servo cables).
Make sure all the cables are safely inside the radio box, then close the box by adding the lid.
Fit both radio box collars over the projections at the rear of the radio box. The wider side of the collars should sit against the body of the box.
Take the first of the two R pins supplied with Stage 46 in the needle-nose pliers, then bend the looped head slightly. This will make it easier to attach and remove the pins. Push the first body pin through the hole in the
projection at the rear of the radio box. The bend in the pin should be positioned away from the box.
Repeat with the second R pin, so that the radio box is fastened shut.
This completes the assembly of pack 12Tomick attached the following image(s):
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