Issue 12, stage 7 of the Launch build and the assembly of two further hull Frames

As before, lightly sand the edges of the frame parts being careful not to alter the shape, then assemble frames 24/25, but do not yet glue them into the Keel.

You'll need to retrieve the two #22 corner parts supplied with issue 6, the wire suplied with issue 9, and the remaining 1.5x3mm & 1.5x1.5mm strips supplied with issue 9.

The Windlass is formed from the already cut to length piece set aside at the end of issue 11, it is shaped and drilled as per the step info, and a short lengths of pivot wire inserted into each end, and the two windlass supports added, paint the windlass before gluing it into place between the fourth and fifth thwarts.

For those wanting added detail, do not to glue the Windlass into place at this stage, but wait or issue 14, where the anchor rope is brought into play, which as an alternative can be wound around the windlass and secured to the anchor, (the steps will only show the anchor rope as being coiled into the hull).

The fitting out of the stern is completed with the addition of two side rails cut from 1.5x3mm strip and two central strips cut from 1.5x1.5mm strip, which are cut to length and painted before gluing into place, though before gluing the the two side rails, test fit both for height in conjunction with the corner parts noted below, the two central rails are set 6mm apart.

Finally, paint and fit the two corner blocks into the Stern.

Issue 13, stage 8 of the Launch build and the assembly of two more hull Frames.

As before, lightly sand the edges of the frame parts being careful not to alter their shape, then assemble frames 26/27, but do not glue them into the Keel.

From issue 6, you'll need to retrieve part #21 (Rudder) and a 1.5x1.5mm wood strip, and from issue 9 the brass strip, eyebolt and brass wire.

Install the eyebolt by carefully drilling the centre of the keel with a 0.5mm bit just above the bow brace, (I found that 3mm needed to be cut from the eyebolt shaft to avoid any danger of it protrudingt he keel), then glue into place.

Making the Rudder - Cut a 30mm length of the 1.5x1.5mm wood strip, then with a 1mm bit drill the rudder thru just below the tip, the rudder should be drilled at a slight angle, then form the shaft of the wood strip cut earlier which will become the tiller, draw the wood strip through folded sandpaper to produce a slight rounded taper at one end, do this until the end can be pushed into the rudder so that it slightly protrudes the other side, its a delicate task so don't force it, when your happy with the fit remove the tiller and set aside.

Note: Steps 5,6 & 7 show's how to cut the pintle notches into the rudder, however the rudder has been supplied with its notches pre-cut, so ignore these steps!

The brass strip is formed into two U shaped brackets and glued to the rudder, ensure that the outer edge of the brackets are flush with the edge of the rudder.

The rudder is then held centrally against the stern of the launch so that the bottom of the rudder aligns with the bottom of the keel, and mark on the transom just below the two U brackets, check that the marks are central to the transom and keel, and then drill at the two points marked, (both holes must be a snug fit to suit the brass wire), great care must be taken when driling the stern so as not to drill through the transom or break through the side of the keel.

Cut two 4mm lengths of the brass wire and form into two L shaped pieces (Pintles), and glue both into the drilled holes so that you have two projecting pins with the hook facing upwards, then fit the tiller into the rudder and test fit the rudder assembly onto the pintles, adjust the pintles if necessary, the rudder should have free movement, when happy glue the tiller into the rudder.

Paint the rudder assembly white and the eyebolt metallic black, and as the ships boats are in stowed format, the rudder should be stowed inside the Launch.

Issue 14, stage 9 of the Launch build, and more Hull frames.

As before, lightly sand the edges of the frame parts being careful not to alter their shape, assemble frame 28 but do not glue into the Keel, and store frames 29 & 31.

Assemble the the 12-pounder as per the info noted in Issue 1. However, note that the orientation of the gun base shown in issue 1 is incorrect,which should be positioned with its narrow end at the front of the carriage and wide end at the rear. Finish your canon in your chosen guise.

From the parts supplied with issue 9, you'll need to retrieve the Oars, Mast and Twine.

Oars - Carefullly remove any moulding lines from the Oars with a needle file and then prime and paint, (further Oars will be supplied at a later point to make up the compliment of 16).

Anchor Rope - A coil needs to be formed, first cut a square of masking tape and starting from the centre, carefully form a coil upon it pressing into place with a blunt edge, and continue until it is around 17mm in diameter but leave a length of approx 40mm loose at the end.
Then apply neat PVA glue covering the entire coil, though avoid aplying too much and letting the glue soak through.
When the glue has fully dried carefully peel off the tape to reveal a neat coil, which can the be glued inside the Launch.
If your looking for an old/used look to the rope, the twine can be stained in black coffee or wood dye.

Mast - This needs to be tapered, starting at a point about 70mm from one end draw the mast through folded sandpaper, aiming to produce a smooth even taper down to a diameter of around 1.5mm at its tip, then round off the tip and mark 90mm from the thinnest end and cut the mast to length, then paint 4mm of the tip white.

The Mast, Oars and Rudder can now be stowed into the boat to complete the effect, though additional Oars will eventually be bound together with remaining twine, this completes the build of the first ships boat.