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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/04/2013 Posts: 342 Points: 1,029 Location: Essex
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Nice little project Robin  Although I don't agree that they were there at the time of Trafalgar, nor the fore castle ones for that matter, I know JoTika have gone with it, but in my (very humble) opinion, there just isn't enough sound evidence to support it. Still it's nice to see another variation on the theme. Well done mate. Regards Alan England expects that every man will do his duty.
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More beautiful work from you Robin and some very interesting points you are raising.... think the additions will make for a beautiful and different build....  .. Will be following.... Best regards Alan
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Very nice work Robin, that is the first time I have ever seen the extensions on the poop deck, looks fantastic  Steve
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/09/2010 Posts: 851 Points: 2,565 Location: Walsall
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Fantastic detailed work as always Robin. Love what you are doing. Regards Foz
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WOW WOW WOW stunning work Robin the detail is superb Rgd Martyn Building ?
Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa
Next Build ?
When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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Grateful thanks to Martyn, Foz, Stevie and the Alans again, much appreciated and welcomed! I eventually got around to it and so, finally, the Anchor Palm Blocks! As this was another item ‘omitted’ from the DelPrado build instructions (just checked the binder to make sure – yep! It was!) this would be the next scratch build item for the deck/hull sides. The purpose of the Palm Block is simply to act as a locating point for the Sheet Anchor to rest on when it is stowed for sailing, (the Sheet Anchor is the rear most of the two main anchors carried on each side of the hull at the bow, the fore-most ones being the Bower Anchors) The top face of the block has a diagonal slot cut into it, angled from outboard into the centre of the ship. When in use, the triangular ‘blades’ on the iron anchor, also called its ‘Palms’ slip down into the slot, keeping the anchor stowed in the correct position, hence the anchor ‘palm’ block. The first problem was how to achieve those slots! In this 1/100 scale, the largest part of the block is the top section with the slot and that was only 10 x 5mm. I could drill a series of holes in the slot position, but I had nothing small enough to file those holes into a rectangle to finish it off. The solution, which I arrived at and shown in Photo 1, was not to try drilling at all, I simply cut the piece from a length of hull plank, rounded off the outer corners and then, carefully with a safety razor blade sliced the rectangle diagonally from corner to corner. Then, using the flat diamond file I filed out a groove into the ‘forward’ half of the plank (very fiddly as there’s not much to hold on to when trying to file!), once satisfied with the depth of the groove the two halves were glued back together again as shown (the completed one is just placed together in the photo, not actually stuck yet!) The important thing to remember if the two flat surfaces are not equally finished as my wood was, was to angle the cut from the opposite sides (left and right corners) otherwise you’ll end up with two blocks with the same groove and not mirror images of each other! (And No, I did get it right first time!) The next job was the big hefty and ornamental block which is set into the hull timbers in the real ship to provide a strong platform for the top surface. My first attempt was a dismal failure, I tried to create the multi-layer effect by building it out of multi layers of thin sanded strips of wood but it just didn’t look either right or good enough so on to Plan B. Plan B worked quite well and involved a 4mm square strip of wood, (I don’t think this was a left over from the Grimsby, it was too light a colour so was probably bought from the model shop some time ago. Anyway, I measured how far out from the hull side it had to project and pencil lined the end of the strip. I then took a small piece of 1mm square strip and carefully sliced it down the middle, slicing the smaller pieces again to produce a strip approximately 0.5mm square. Short lengths of this were then super glued to the two sides and front face of the strip to produce the raised moulding effect as seen in Photo 2. This strip was later sanded down even further to reduce its depth as can be seen in Photos 3 and 4. Before that was done however, I had to get the curved front face which was achieved with the ‘Dremel-esque’ equipped with a suitable cylindrical carving drum to produce the curve as seen again in Photo 2. Incidentally, on the first block I glued the strips on first and ground the curve up to them, on the second one however, I ground the curve on first to match the original for size and then glued the strips on afterwards – so it can be done either way round! Photo 3 shows the finished ‘raw’ block with the curvy bit cut off the 4mm strip, the decorative bands sanded down flatter and the top face super glued in place. Photo 4 also shows the first block completed with the component parts of the second one arranged around it. Photo 5 shows the port side block super glued in place before a coat or two of Admiralty Dull Black. All that was required for this one was a little light sanding on the inner face of the curved block to accurately match the hull curve, the corresponding starboard one required a little more sanding with a little ‘letting in’ to the top deck-level edging strip to get it to sit flat (that edge piece has a very slight camber on it!) The final result is shown in Photo 6, (the same port side block) after its coat of paint and some dry brushing to bring out the highlights of the decorative bands. A tiny, little piece of the ship’s detail, but surprisingly fiddly to create simply because of its diminutive dimensions. Still, got there in the end and they do look good stuck there! Unfortunately, DelPrado neglected to provide said Sheet anchors as well so more work ahead! Probably the waist hammock frames next, unless something else crops up in the meantime! Happy Building to all! Robin Plymouth57 attached the following image(s): First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Outstanding tutorial once again Robin, your diary is an absolute joy to follow.....  Full of detail and superbly described..... Will be following with interest to see what else you can come up with....  .. Keep up the great work..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/04/2013 Posts: 342 Points: 1,029 Location: Essex
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Nicely done as usual Robin Keep 'em coming. Regards Alan England expects that every man will do his duty.
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Very nice, loving your attention to detail.
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2011 Posts: 1,344 Points: 4,079 Location: Bryanston, Johannesburg. RSA
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Beautiful job there Robin. An absolute joy to watch coming together. Well done. Rgds, Hans
"It's okay to make mistakes. mistakes are our teachers - they help us to to learn, even if it is painfully"
Current Build:
Endeavour Cross section,D51
Completed: HMS Victory
Under the bench: Endeavour x 2,Sovereign of the Seas, Akagi and The Black Pearl!HMS Victory Cross Section
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Many thanks again to Hans, Jase and the Alans! Something else cropped up! For some time I have been wondering how I was going to make up the series of cleats which are sunk into the deck and sides of the poop deck area. There are about nine or ten of them altogether, and although the kit did supply four, they are, as Sparks has already pointed out, hopelessly over scale.  I had been thinking up various schemes over the last few weeks; carving them from plasticard or grinding them out of brass strip to wrapping and soldering brass wire together. In the end I came up with an idea which was closest to the wrapping brass wire but didn’t involve any wrapping! And to be honest, it worked even better than I’d hoped for! Basically, we start with good old standard brass wire, 0.5mm in this case as you can see in Photo 1. The wire was cut into lengths of approximately ¾” and then the ends were bent down just short of a right angle. After doing the first one and jiggling about to get the angles the same it suddenly dawned on me I was making it harder than it needed to be! Instead of bending the wires one at a time just hold both of them in the flat nosed pliers and bend them together! Simple really and both wires are automatically identical! This then results in the ‘cranked’ effect shown on the right. Next came the really fiddly part, the two wires are placed in the mini vice and gripped together side by side with the ‘arms’ facing outwards. As I said this is the fiddly part as both wires must be at the exact same height for this to work properly, a little ‘up and downing’ may be required to match them up correctly. This can be seen in Photo 2 (excuse the slightly fuzzy pic, the low wattage light in my workroom seems to upset the camera’s auto focus at times, day time photos don’t seem to be affected) Once everything is correctly positioned (I used the long nosed flat pliers to squeeze the wires flat and parallel) the soldering iron is used with a tiny drop of solder on the tip to press up against the rear of the join at the top, give it a few seconds to heat the brass and then apply enough solder from the front to saturate the joint, finishing off by using the tip to flow the solder over the arms as well. In Photo 3, the joint and one arm are soldered, a little more was then applied over the other arm to complete the job. The joined wires were then removed from the vice and gripped in a small pair of pliers whilst the (newly repaired) rotary tool was used with a thin cutting disk to grind down the arms from below and the sides, producing a sharper profile to the arms ( Photo 4) In Photo 5, the same cutting disk was used to carefully cut off one of the two wires forming the ‘legs’ below the cleat. I did try one using very fine electrical snips as well which worked just as good but needs even more care not to sever both legs at the same time. We are now left with a completed cleat on a single 0.5mm leg which is then painted in a couple of thick coats of Admiralty Metal Black before drilling a suitable hole into the deck, placing the leg just into the hole and then applying a drop of super glue just below the cleat and gently pushing it down into position. The final result can be seen in Photo 6 with the scale sized cleat standing just behind the kit part supplied for the same position! The over sized things won’t go to waste however, though they are way too big for the deck cleats, they are about the right size (once the base has been cut off) for the pair of large horizontal cleats called ‘Horns’ which stick out of the side walls of the poop deck just aft of the ‘proper’ cleats. Waste not, want not! The 0.5mm wire was just right for my 1/100 scale but the larger 1/80 and above ships would probably require 0.75 - 1.0mm wire instead to get the same effect. Quite pleased with this one, very cheap to produce too! Happy Building All Robin Plymouth57 attached the following image(s): First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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A remarkable piece of work Robin and it just goes to show what a little ingenuity can bring..... very well done again.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Fantastic detailing Robin, love watching this one Steve
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/04/2013 Posts: 342 Points: 1,029 Location: Essex
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Nicely done Robin Regards Alan England expects that every man will do his duty.
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/08/2010 Posts: 2,771 Points: 8,344 Location: Brighton
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Hi Robin. Very nicely done work on your cleat idea, looking forward to seeing more ian Current builds.Hachettes build the bismark,HMS Victory, HMS Hood.
Finished Builds Corel HMS Victory cross section.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/09/2010 Posts: 851 Points: 2,565 Location: Walsall
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Great work Robin, love the idea and look forward to your progress. Regards Foz
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Hi again All! Many thanks once more for all the above kind comments, nothing actually new in this post, just a rounding off of the last one to show the finished Horns and the scaled down cleats in position on the poop deck. Photo 1 shows the production of the pair of horns for the side walls of the poop. As seen here, they were simply made by cutting off the bases of the over-sized cleats as supplied with the DelPrado kit. I’m not sure what that metal is that all the kit parts are made of, but its quite brittle and flaming hard to cut through, even with the carbide rotary cut-off disc!! Eventually I got the bases cut away and then, gripping the curved horns in a pair of pliers, I managed to file the bottoms flat with the ever-useful diamond dust flat file. The two horns are seen here stuck on to a small piece of double sided pad for painting. Photo 2 shows the port side of the poop with one of the horns and the two cleats in place. The cleats are fixed with a drop of super onto the leg before it was pushed down into the pre-drilled holes, the horn is glued to the side wall with a drop of the same glue on the flat bottom of the horn. A brass rod into the base would have been more secure, but that metal is a real swine to try and drill into!! Photo 3 shows the Ensign cleat in the stern wall just above the signal lockers whilst the final Photo 4 shows the small cleat set into the starboard knee. Just have six eye-bolts to fix into the poop deck either side of the mizzen mast hole and that should be most of the ‘iron-work’ completed for this area. The next post ……..could be anything! Happy building to all Robin Plymouth57 attached the following image(s): First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Looks fab Robin, well worth the effort and of course great credit to your skills..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2011 Posts: 1,344 Points: 4,079 Location: Bryanston, Johannesburg. RSA
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Great job and good idea, well done. Rgds, Hans
"It's okay to make mistakes. mistakes are our teachers - they help us to to learn, even if it is painfully"
Current Build:
Endeavour Cross section,D51
Completed: HMS Victory
Under the bench: Endeavour x 2,Sovereign of the Seas, Akagi and The Black Pearl!HMS Victory Cross Section
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Lovely work Robin, well done Steve
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