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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 462 Points: 1,299 Location: Tortuga !
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Allan wrote:Thanks for that Russ Question= if one led fails do they all go out if so is there away round this as its not going to be that easy to get at them once the build is finished  also you have shown a 7 led circuit do we just add as needed or will this affect the voltage? Regards Allan No Allan, if you do it that way then if one fails the rest still light, they will only fail if you run them in series to one another, in basics you are creating a power ring like you would have in your house then you plug each LED in individualy and a 12vdc 2W hard drive power supply is enough to run upto 150 standard LEDs as with ease as they only use 20mA each. Lets get Technical !!!  EDITED - SEE NEW POST IT'S A BIT SIMPLER!! Happy Building, Russ On the workbench: My Victory Build Diary - Victory Cross Section Build Diary - Black Pearl Build DiaryUnder the Bench: Millenium Falcon, Black Pearl x 2, Coral Victory Cross Section, De Lorean
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/03/2010 Posts: 472 Points: 1,357 Location: Hyde
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Hi there I'm little confused about one thing. You've said that led drops voltage by 2.3V and you will heve 11.5V left for the resistor? Things don't add up here I think. It should be 9.7V and this will calculate resistance to 485Ohm. There is another option. Instead having to add one resistor per LED you can do it diferent way. As you said voltage drop on led is in average 2.5V. If you want to light op larger area you need more than one led and there is a trick. You need to connect four led's in serial and this will give you 10V drop in total and all you need is add resistor for remaning 2V (if you lucky enough to find LED's with voltage drop of 2.4V and if you use 5 of them you don't need resistor at all). This option saves some time in soldering all the resistors to led's. I hope it helps.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 462 Points: 1,299 Location: Tortuga !
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your right Tom, brain not in gear, started new topic - Circuitry 101: How to Hook Up LEDs , makes life a bit simpler. Russ Happy Building, Russ On the workbench: My Victory Build Diary - Victory Cross Section Build Diary - Black Pearl Build DiaryUnder the Bench: Millenium Falcon, Black Pearl x 2, Coral Victory Cross Section, De Lorean
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 Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 43 Points: 135 Location: Gillingham, Kent
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Hi, Thought I would post some photos of an Enterprise model I've made in the past with some lighting. This is turned on/off by remote control and can change between red/white (Night light/Normal). Bought the remote module from maplins I think. Can't remember how I wired it up but it looks awesome in the dark. I had some problems getting decent pictures due to bright light coming through the curtains, but I think you will get the idea!!!
Built:McLaren MP4-23
Ongoing:HMS Victory, Victory Cross-Section, Harley Fatboy, Hatchette Lancaster, Flying Scotsman, Stagecoach
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/04/2010 Posts: 58 Points: 133 Location: Newcastle uk
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I like the idea of putting lights in the lanterns on the stern of the ship , Have to wait and see how big these lanterns actually are first , Then decide if i have to remake them and install leds .
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/03/2010 Posts: 44 Points: 161 Location: derby
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im well up 4 it guys. I think what we need is Bi-colour LEDs yellow or orange. that way we can get candle effect. Also i would leave plenty of wire in each gun compartment so u can pull it out wit tweezers and change LED if it blows
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 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
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interested on how u go about it keep us posted pitfalls as well  if u want a dimmer light ie candle not 100watt light bulb would a resistor in the circuit produce a lower luminance????
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/09/2009 Posts: 138 Points: 422 Location: Surrey
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You can wire a group of 4/5 LEDs in series, but it's not common practice (in the world of electronics anyway.) The reasons being that you can't guarantee that all the LEDs will be the same brightness (they usually are, but not always.) and, more importantly, if you have a failure it will kill all 4 or 5 LEDs. Wiring one resistor to each LED is the usual way of doing things. That way you should only lose one LED if an LED or resistor fails, as Russ mentioned. Resistors are only a fraction of a penny each (I think I paid 50p for a pack of 100).
Heat is unlikely to be an issue if you've only got a few LED's, but best not to group all the resistors together. Assuming a 20mA current, the heat generated is around 190 mW which is pretty small and shouldn't cause a problem if the resistors are spaced apart a bit.
A bigger resistor will give a dimmer light. Also, the resistor will generate less heat as a trivial side effect.
Cheers
Mark
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 462 Points: 1,299 Location: Tortuga !
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tom.ganc wrote:Hi again. If you want to buy led's go to www.component-shop.co.ukThey are much cheaper than maplins. I buy all led's, batterys and chargers there. I agree with tom, I get mine from there as well as Ebay, Cant beat the chinese for LED's plus they usually suplly FREE Resistors as well ! More info on LED lighting here -> http://forum.model-space...t.aspx?g=posts&t=319Happy Building, Russ On the workbench: My Victory Build Diary - Victory Cross Section Build Diary - Black Pearl Build DiaryUnder the Bench: Millenium Falcon, Black Pearl x 2, Coral Victory Cross Section, De Lorean
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/03/2010 Posts: 44 Points: 161 Location: derby
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Do You have to run it from the battery or can You run it of the AC ?? Cheers
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
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viperek wrote:Do You have to run it from the battery or can You run it of the AC ?? Cheers what or should i say watt 240vac   what size generators are in the victory's engine room sorry mate bit cheeky take it u mean an ac to dc adaptor another thought might be a pot (variable resistor)so u can alter the brightness i know if leds are wired in series if 1 goes they all go what about wiring in parrallel that might also keep the brightness down
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 498 Points: 1,522 Location: South Wales
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Can't you buy Dolls house flikering candle LED's or won't you get a realistic effect? Ship Builds on the go
Yamato - DeAgostini Subscription - Highly Recommend This Model
AKAGI - DeAgostini Subscription - Highly Recommend This Model
RMS Titanic Lifeboat (Kind Gift from DeAgostini Crew)
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
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Hi Vipertek been thinking bout your project 1st thing i think u will need to work out is where u want ure LEDs but the problem rises in gaining access to them & battery, remote rx to complete cct for switching them on/off or wiring taking the complete deck off with the amount of rigging at upper deck level could mean u breaking something lots of small bits n bobs but if u did go that way it might be best if u made the upper part seperable further down in line with a row of planking to hide the join this would help to hide ure seperation line dont think there will be much scope for having several access points on deck without disrupting the flow of planking & taking the look of the model away (join lines slightly higher than surrounding deck etc) or u could gain access from the hull side (side nobody sees)using a jigsaw pattern in line with planking to keep the join line to a minimum either way i think uve got a job & a half on ure hands good luck let us know how it goes
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/03/2010 Posts: 44 Points: 161 Location: derby
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budgie wrote: Hi Vipertek been thinking bout your project 1st thing i think u will need to work out is where u want ure LEDs but the problem rises in gaining access to them & battery, remote rx to complete cct for switching them on/off or wiring taking the complete deck off with the amount of rigging at upper deck level could mean u breaking something lots of small bits n bobs but if u did go that way it might be best if u made the upper part seperable further down in line with a row of planking to hide the join this would help to hide ure seperation line dont think there will be much scope for having several access points on deck without disrupting the flow of planking & taking the look of the model away (join lines slightly higher than surrounding deck etc) or u could gain access from the hull side (side nobody sees)using a jigsaw pattern in line with planking to keep the join line to a minimum either way i think uve got a job & a half on ure hands good luck let us know how it goes I was more thinking of pulling + and - cables out of the hull somwhere down the bottom near the stand where You wont see it at all. The LEDs in gun points are goint have to be loose enough to be able to pull them out if the LED blows the only problem i got at the moment is the lights in the captains cabin. 1. I dont know if we going to have a glass o plastic widnows. 2. It has to open somehow to be able to get the LED out.
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 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/03/2010 Posts: 194 Points: 446 Location: Gloucestershire
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Hi All, If things don't start to go right i will set fire to it, that will light it up Ha Glen  Roger the Cabin Boy
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