|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Andy,
Your personal inbox is full and will not accept any more mail.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
|
|
 Should be fine now dennis  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 parts 07 wheels Now that the four main drive wheel sets have been received I have now finished these. Firstly as other build diary contributors have done I have polished the tyre faces. This was achieved using 1500 grade wet n dry paper used dry until a smooth surface had been achieved and all signs of the 'cast' surface removed. I then polished each one with Solvol Autosol chrome polish although similar products such as Brasso or even T cut would suffice. The wheel centre areas were lightly bead blasted followed by clear metal primer and then matt clear lacquer with a touch of black added. The finish achieved being similar to the motion gear assembly items previously posted. I decided to mask off the end of the axles and left this unpainted. The axle ends are shown as bare metal in most pictures I have seen of the D51. Then the wheel tyres and centres were masked off together with the axles. The wheels which had already been degreased prior to masking off where then sprayed (airbrush) with etch primer, then primer and then a mix of matt and glass black. I wanted to achieve a slight satin finish. Also the axle box guards where finished with the same treatment. At this time the chassis remains to be painted. I am leaving this incase any further parts are to added. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Looking good Dennis Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Thank you Andy.
Yes I am pleased with the black.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
 Rank: Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
|
Very nice indeed Dennis. This is becoming a benchmark build 
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi. Andy, Thank you for your kind comment. I am enjoying the build and very much look forward to future sets. Regards Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 parts set. 08
Since this set of parts presents many opportunities for soldering I have added three separate
posts to the Model Making Know How section under soldering.
Previously this post had no images to illustrate various ways of soldering, this situation is now corrected.
Regards
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 Parts set 08 - Smokebox I have now soldered all the parts supplied in 08 onto the smokebox. These included handrail brackets, pivots/handle, door handle, left handrail, right handrail and headlight. I found that the hole into the boiler ring needed some realigning (drill) in order that the wire tube from the headlight could allow the headlight to sit correctly before soldering in place. I have left the LED and wiring until the smokebox inside has been sprayed. Until the smoke deflector brackets have been attached to the smokebox the inside cannot be painted and the superheater plate etc also painted and attached. I have also attached the smokebox door locking bar but have left the smokebox door handle and lever etc. These will be attached once the door has been sprayed. Cheers Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 Parts 08 Boiler The two boiler joints were screwed in place on the lower boiler half. The inside edge of the two joints were then soldered in place using a small gas burner (see soldering, model making know how). The handrail brackets were then soldered into the top half of the boiler. The top half was then screwed into place onto the lower half. Using the supplied screws allowed accurate alignment while soldering. The top half was then also soldered in place by carefully working within the boiler housing. Once the top half was in place all the screws were removed that held the boiler halves onto the joints. Although it was now left to simply solder up the redundant screw holes I decided to use brass screws in all the holes, filed flat and then soldered over together with the main joints. All was then cleaned up using a file and some emery boards. I have left the two ends clear until later parts have been added. Season's Greeting's Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 Parts 33 - 36
As before you will find detail on the soldering of the various parts under 'Modelling making know how'.
More to follow.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 Partworks parts 33 - 36 I have put these parts together with some slight changes. First the safety cover which was fitted on the outside being screwed to the alloy base. After viewing pictures of the actual locomotives plus so I can continue soldering I decided to fit the cover on the inside. The hole needed to be enlarged by approximately 0.5mm all the way round. I also chamfered the inner edge to enable the cover to fit more closely. The cover was fitted with a double nut made from brass to enable the two safety valves to be still screwed in place. This will as per the original allow the valves to be left out when spraying instead of masking up. The brass double nut was soldered into the cover and the cover soldered in place. The next part was the tapered section. I note that although this is securely held by the two lower jointing plates there was no obvious way it was secured to the boiler section at the top unlike the other side of the taper section which uses the alloy base to hold the firebox section. Therefore I used a piece of brass sheet 9.5cms x 1.5cms which I rolled to the correct diameter. The inner edge of the boiler section top was tinned and the additional brass joining section. The section was then soldered in place once the lower edges of the tapered section were screwed in place on the lower jointing plates (using ss screws). The lower edge/jointing plates was soldered before removing the screws. The fusible plugs and the handrail brackets were soldered into the firebox sides. The two firebox sides were joined together using the joint plate (stage 35). Again ss screws were used and the joint/sides soldered together via the jointing plate. The ss screws do not become soldered and can be easily removed. Since I was not using the alloy safety valve base pieces of brass were used to solder the firebox to the tapered section. I used a cut down version of the safety valve base to hold the firebox while soldering. Finally the boiler bands were fitted and soldered in place. I have left the front band off at present because the front boiler section will not be fitted until the smoke deflector brackets are in place. Finally the solder does provide a simple way to fill in various joints and holes etc. Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Looking good Dennis “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Jase,
Thank you. I'm enjoying the build.
Regards
Dennis
|
|
|
|
|
Nice work Dennis Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Andy,
Thank you.
As well as the build itself it's planning the next step using Tomick's Build to try and see what's brass and what will solder in future sets.
Perhaps using a different technique is adding a little extra to an excellent build. It also means I have a large number of spare 2mm screws!
cheers
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 Parts set 10 (37 - 40) This set of parts has been interesting especially the Zamac sand dome. I was perhaps hoping for a brass one but it was brassed alloy. Right at the start of this build diary Tomick pointed out that some parts would be Zamac and that if I wished to solder these then a strong flux would required. I tried tinning the face of the sand dome using CARRs Brown flux and it worked fine (see Modelling Know How Soldering for more details/pictures). I had a concern with regard to fitting the dome. It fitted over the boiler bands which would prevent it sitting down perfectly and meant a gap which needed filling around the perimeter. Therefore I first fitted the dome held in place with the screw through the sand dome lid assembly. I scribed around the edge marking the 3 boiler bands on both sides. After removing the dome the boiler bands were cut using a Dremel and fine cutting disc. The band segments were then removed and the dome sat down perfectly. Before fitting the dome I had been wondering about the sand pipe taps and control valve plus whistle. I measured the 'noses' that would be normally glued into the holes in the sand dome. Except for the whistle these all measured 2.03mm the former measured approx 1.90mm. I therefore decided to run a 2mm die nut down all 8 'noses'. The 2.03 mm 'noses' I filed slightly unsize. Also I filed a short taper on each 'nose' to help the die nut to start. WARNING: the 8 items were quite soft brass, so when threading the answer was slow and careful otherwise it would be too easy to shear off the 'noses'. All the parts were then held in place on the dome using 2mm nuts on the inside of the dome to hold them in place. Finally the dome was soldered into place. The sand pipes soldered nicely into place especially were they passed around the boiler so no brackets were required. The steps were also soldered in place. Two items that needed a little care were the the sand dome lid with holder. The lid/flange unit is in fact an interference fit onto the body. Therefore if the holding down screw is overtightened the flange can part company with the body. Mine did but was easily soldered back together. Also the valve at the base of the discharge reservoir was an inference fit but could easily glue or soldered back. Certainly the boiler is starting to look 'busy' now. I continue to be impressed by the quality of the parts especially the 'lost wax' type items. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
WARNING!
I have also included this posting in 'Modelling Know How' but I felt I should also place it here.
In the last posting I have just started to solder the D51 alloy parts. These are ZAMAC castings. Zamac melts at around 380C. Therefore be careful not to get the part far too hot when soldering with the miniature butane torch. The solder melting point is well below the Zamac melt temperature so no problems should occur. Just a warning!
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Parts set 11
This is just a note to say I have posted the soldering of the back head components onto/into the Zamac casting under 'Modelling Know How'.
I was looking forward to this particular part because it is so important loco wise especially the detail.
More to follow.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
|
Guest (3)
|
US
