I am collecting issues and put the build to rest. Its spring clean time and I am dusting old projects that collects rusts in the garage.

Thank guys for inspiring me to do a great build.

Hi Marcel

Need to do some dusting! hope to see some updates shortly!

All the best!

Regards

ISSUE 18 - 20
I am at row 6 with the planking (from the deck section).
I want to achieve "ruler straightness" with the following rows of strakes, therefore I need to place droppers to fill the gaps caused by the first row that follows the deck line.
If I only had this knowledge when I started this build, I would had a different approach.
The straight lines of the planking should aid in planning the cannon ports (Issue 35)

Due to the tedious task of bending planks at the stern, I want to reduce the droppers in this section to the minimum. By dividing the build in section of 5 rows each and mark it, you should get an general idea what to expect how the rows will "sit" on your model. This is a tip I picked up from reading Ship Modeller books.

Hi Marcel

I followed the instructions and didn't encounter any problems. I continued to follow the previous plank and did the infill as required. All worked out nice!

Remember that this is the first layer of planking and would not be vissible once the second layer is in place.

Welcome back to the build - missed you!

Regards

It was worth collecting issues until Issue 35, and stopped planking at Issue 20 .

I want to make sure about the transverse line for the cannon ports described in Issue 35. Having not planked all the way, I have a clear visual of the deck-line.

I marked with a pencil the transverse line 23mm from the top of the deck and draw it with a flexible school ruler on the dots. With the ribs still bare, I draw the centre of each rib onto the planking.

When all is marked out, I want to cut out the first row of gun ports.

Very nice work Marcel and I love your idea for marking out the deck lines... will bank that for future reference.... .. Look forward to seeing more...

Regards

Alan

After many attempts (at least 4 times of breaking it off), I finally finished the 1st 2 rows of the garboard planks.
At first I placed the tapered plank too much forward at the bow, then too far back. Its only after I marked out the bands that I started to see where all the strakes have to be placed (as illustrated in the guide for beginners elsewhere in the forum).

Twisting the strakes at the stern was easy enough. I marked the 6mm space at the rear, mark and pre- drill the plank (note: I kept the whole length of the plank in tact for more handling grip).

I glued the rear strake onto the hull up to rib 22 with the rest of the plank hanging dry and left it for the glue to dry . The next step is the twist.
By gripping the plank at the loose end and pressing it down in place, I heated the twist with a steam-iron to take its new shape, marked the butt for a tight fit, cut and glued it into place. I find by doing it this way, your twists is in the exact position. The opposing plank will have a replicated image.

Issue 20

After I filled all the gaps, I trimmed and shaped the rear. I am very impressed with the outcome of the contours.

My next step is to cut out the first row of gun ports (Issue 35) while the deck plates are still visible. I almost made a booboo by choosing the wrong deck as my basis for my transverse line.

I have finished planking the bottom of the hull up to the 1st band from the keel (4 rows per band = 20mm)


Not sure how the two different bands from the bow-former and keel-section will meet, I marked the bands with black string to get a visual idea how to plan ahead on the planking. For a more accurate measurement, I used a bamboo plank to follow the contours and made adjustment to the string where necessary.

With the instructions open next to my build, the strings gives me a better understanding of the outlay of the tapered planks and make improvements where possible.