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 Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2013 Posts: 46 Points: 144 Location: London
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Hi,
I think it was a YouTube video I watched ages ago where the builder said that the shock oil you receive is too thin, and we should buy thicker.
I don't know much about oils and what the numbers mean, but I'm sure he said to use 7000cSt. I looked at some 7000 oil in a model shop today and it seemed to be very thick, almost like treacle !!
Anybody have any thing to say about the shock oil we receive ?? It is very very thin !!
Thanks
J
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Nothing wrong with the shock oil provided and is what is recommened by the kit manufacturer. However, it is common practice to swop the oil viscosity for thinner/thicker grade depending on the track type, a thicker oil will make the shocks stiffer.
Also, softer/harder springs are swopped too.
Its a personal choice/tuning matter.
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Joined: 11/04/2013 Posts: 119 Points: 347
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Sounds like you watched Dylan's video. The salesman was a noob and sold him diff oil and not shock oil. I'd say the oil provided is only a 60 or 70wt oil, but the springs are quite hard too. Like Tomick said its a personal choice. I'd be keen to try a 500wt oil in my rb7 cuz i reckon the shocks are too soft, but that's just my opinion.
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 Rank: Elite        Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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When a series is released it is always best to follow the manufacturer advice to avoid problems later on. That said, the choice is yours and that Tuning your car is personnel choice, but if you decide step outside the intended build, and later find problems as a result of any changes made, it then becomes your problem. A good example, If you buy a new car from a dealer and the manufacturer says that you should use "this" engine oil and you use something else and wonder why the engine blows up then the manufacturer will certainly not be giving you a new engine if you did not follow their recommendations. If you modify the engine then you in effect void the warranty. For anyone who has not built, raced or even owned an RC car before, then I would suggest sticking to the official build and using the recommended parts etc supplied. It's all being well watching these YouTube videos but the information given is not always the right and in the main based on personal preference. Are these people proffesional RC racers with years of knowledge? Something you need to ask yourselves before making any changes, as it could turn out that you wished you had not, such as following Dylans advice about paint application which he had to later retract as it was wrong. Kyosho know what they are talking about and have been doing RC for many years, so if they provide the shock oil then it must be the correct oil as a start point, and if you are unhappy about the viscocity then change it as part of the tuning process, but it does not make it wrong. Spencer
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Totally agree Spencer unles you know what you are doing don't deviate from the build instructions. As for Utube just because sombody can make a video clip doesn't make them an expert in anything!! “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2013 Posts: 46 Points: 144 Location: London
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Warthog wrote:
When a series is released it is always best to follow the manufacturer advice to avoid problems later on. That said, the choice is yours and that Tuning your car is personnel choice, but if you decide step outside the intended build, and later find problems as a result of any changes made, it then becomes your problem.
A good example, If you buy a new car from a dealer and the manufacturer says that you should use "this" engine oil and you use something else and wonder why the engine blows up then the manufacturer will certainly not be giving you a new engine if you did not follow their recommendations. If you modify the engine then you in effect void the warranty.
For anyone who has not built, raced or even owned an RC car before, then I would suggest sticking to the official build and using the recommended parts etc supplied.
It's all being well watching these YouTube videos but the information given is not always the right and in the main based on personal preference. Are these people proffesional RC racers with years of knowledge? Something you need to ask yourselves before making any changes, as it could turn out that you wished you had not, such as following Dylans advice about paint application which he had to later retract as it was wrong.
Kyosho know what they are talking about and have been doing RC for many years, so if they provide the shock oil then it must be the correct oil as a start point, and if you are unhappy about the viscocity then change it as part of the tuning process, but it does not make it wrong.
Spencer
This is why I wanted to ask .... So that I had more than one opinion. I'll stick with the oil given and see how it goes later on. I've a little way to go as issues 9-12 should be here tomorrow. Thanks J
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 14/03/2013 Posts: 96 Points: 287 Location: England
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I also watched those videos. To be fair, the front of the car is very very low. I'm built up to issue 44 and its never going to run on a road surface at the moment... Building: RB7 Nitro / Senna MP4/4 Finished: McLaren MP4/23
Brad.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Food for thought - The car is not complete and has not been run. The clips show lot's of guesswork and little expertise.
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 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/03/2011 Posts: 1,027 Points: 3,075 Location: Lincolnshire
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Warthog wrote:
When a series is released it is always best to follow the manufacturer advice to avoid problems later on. That said, the choice is yours and that Tuning your car is personnel choice, but if you decide step outside the intended build, and later find problems as a result of any changes made, it then becomes your problem.
A good example, If you buy a new car from a dealer and the manufacturer says that you should use "this" engine oil and you use something else and wonder why the engine blows up then the manufacturer will certainly not be giving you a new engine if you did not follow their recommendations. If you modify the engine then you in effect void the warranty.
For anyone who has not built, raced or even owned an RC car before, then I would suggest sticking to the official build and using the recommended parts etc supplied.
It's all being well watching these YouTube videos but the information given is not always the right and in the main based on personal preference. Are these people proffesional RC racers with years of knowledge? Something you need to ask yourselves before making any changes, as it could turn out that you wished you had not, such as following Dylans advice about paint application which he had to later retract as it was wrong.
Kyosho know what they are talking about and have been doing RC for many years, so if they provide the shock oil then it must be the correct oil as a start point, and if you are unhappy about the viscocity then change it as part of the tuning process, but it does not make it wrong.
Spencer
Cogent advice spencer. Modifications are always a matter of personal choice, but as you said, they come with a certain element of risk. As someone once said in a post on this forum "whats wrong with building the model as per the instructions". Its something to think about? 
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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What's concerning to me is that he shows the display bodywork being sprayed without any mention of cleaning/washing the parts to remove all traces of the mould release agent. This shows from the finish he has with bubbles etc and seems to blame the paint.. Also Tamiya paints are formulated to go wet on wet so a 10-15 dry time in between will only add to the problem and result in a horrible finish.. He has already backtracked once about applying the pearl coat in an earlier clip but it's too late if you have not seen the second clip where he admits he has made a mistake. The video showing the 2 air scoop halves being sprayed then glued together also concerns me, I would not want a glue/seem line down the centre of the part so why not glue the 2 halves together and once dry, sand/file the join before once again priming and spraying.. It will look so much more professional.. Any modeller will tell you It is always best to give the area being sprayed/painted a primer coat, this gives the paint being applied something to "key" too giving a better finish and removing any possibility of the paint "chipping" once again the correct primer colour needs to be chosen to get the right colour match so in this case white would be used. Colour choices... He's already made a mistake by choosing Camel yellow. Let's wait until we have the official colours before jumping in at the deep end and wasting your money
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My fears are that someone building either cars can follow the Utube advice and then totally ruin the parts they have this could have people on a budget giving up as they cant afford the replacement parts regards Andy  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Absolutely Andy! The build diaries are here for a reason so why deviate from what has already been tried and tested...
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/07/2013 Posts: 120 Points: 336 Location: Brisbane Australia
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Hi Mr T, Spencer and Andy, I have been watching the youtube videos like everyone else and after reading these comments I still can't decide if painting is the way to go or not. I take on board the comments about preparation etc. I understand we will end up with two bodies (a display and a race body); In Australia I'm up to issue 44 I have assumed the one currently on build is the display body , can you confirm this? If it is the display body it's probably worth the effort of painting. Whilst not entirely new to model or RT cars this is my first build on this scale  and like Andy suggests I've only got the budget for one set of parts so I cant afford to get it wrong. Bruce Chasecar
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Warthog wrote:
What's concerning to me is that he shows the display bodywork being sprayed without any mention of cleaning/washing the parts to remove all traces of the mould release agent. This shows from the finish he has with bubbles etc and seems to blame the paint.. Also Tamiya paints are formulated to go wet on wet so a 10-15 dry time in between will only add to the problem and result in a horrible finish.. He has already backtracked once about applying the pearl coat in an earlier clip but it's too late if you have not seen the second clip where he admits he has made a mistake.
The video showing the 2 air scoop halves being sprayed then glued together also concerns me, I would not want a glue/seem line down the centre of the part so why not glue the 2 halves together and once dry, sand/file the join before once again priming and spraying.. It will look so much more professional..
Any modeller will tell you It is always best to give the area being sprayed/painted a primer coat, this gives the paint being applied something to "key" too giving a better finish and removing any possibility of the paint "chipping" once again the correct primer colour needs to be chosen to get the right colour match so in this case white would be used.
Colour choices... He's already made a mistake by choosing Camel yellow. Let's wait until we have the official colours before jumping in at the deep end and wasting your money
You are so right. watching this guy blunder through his build making mistake after mistake is scary. He is not getting even the most basic model skills right.
It is clear form all these posts that this chap is causing nothing but confusion. For people who are new to building RC kits or to modelling full stop. the only advice is follow the instructions and stop watching this U-tube build because he is not helping you!! Any experienced modeller will tell you his build is very amateur.
Even my 7 year old daughter knows to build things up before you paint them!!!!!!!!!Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Chasecar wrote:Hi Mr T, Spencer and Andy, I have been watching the youtube videos like everyone else and after reading these comments I still can't decide if painting is the way to go or not. I take on board the comments about preparation etc. I understand we will end up with two bodies (a display and a race body); In Australia I'm up to issue 44 I have assumed the one currently on build is the display body , can you confirm this? If it is the display body it's probably worth the effort of painting. Whilst not entirely new to model or RT cars this is my first build on this scale and like Andy suggests I've only got the budget for one set of parts so I cant afford to get it wrong. Bruce Hi Bruce,
The current body being constructed is the display body, the racing bodyshell is provided towards the end of the series.
At the relevant points, painting information will be provided within the instructions for both types and I will be providing any additional hints/tips on the forum.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Coming back to the topic heading of Shock Oil.
Thinner oil has a low viscosity and flows more quickly from one side of the piston to the other. As a result, the shock compresses more easily and then extends again. It will absorb more energy and transmit fewer shocks to the chassis, so the behaviour of the car becomes 'softer', and the wheels are less likely to lose contact with the track when they pass over bumps. However, a softly sprung vehicle will roll more when cornering and will tend to break away more.
The shock oil supplied with your RB7 has medium viscosity, rated at 100 cP (a measure of viscosity). Together with the relatively hard shock srings, this ensures balanced driving behaviour on bumpy as well as faster circuits.
Another way you can adapt the road holding on your model is by fitting different springs. Hard springs offer high resistance to compression, the chassis will roll less than it would with softer springs fitted. The car will be more stable to control, but on very bumpy surfaces, a high rate can mean that the car often leaves the ground.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2013 Posts: 46 Points: 144 Location: London
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jase wrote:Warthog wrote:
What's concerning to me is that he shows the display bodywork being sprayed without any mention of cleaning/washing the parts to remove all traces of the mould release agent. This shows from the finish he has with bubbles etc and seems to blame the paint.. Also Tamiya paints are formulated to go wet on wet so a 10-15 dry time in between will only add to the problem and result in a horrible finish.. He has already backtracked once about applying the pearl coat in an earlier clip but it's too late if you have not seen the second clip where he admits he has made a mistake.
The video showing the 2 air scoop halves being sprayed then glued together also concerns me, I would not want a glue/seem line down the centre of the part so why not glue the 2 halves together and once dry, sand/file the join before once again priming and spraying.. It will look so much more professional..
Any modeller will tell you It is always best to give the area being sprayed/painted a primer coat, this gives the paint being applied something to "key" too giving a better finish and removing any possibility of the paint "chipping" once again the correct primer colour needs to be chosen to get the right colour match so in this case white would be used.
Colour choices... He's already made a mistake by choosing Camel yellow. Let's wait until we have the official colours before jumping in at the deep end and wasting your money
You are so right. watching this guy blunder through his build making mistake after mistake is scary. He is not getting even the most basic model skills right.
It is clear form all these posts that this chap is causing nothing but confusion. For people who are new to building RC kits or to modelling full stop. the only advice is follow the instructions and stop watching this U-tube build because he is not helping you!! Any experienced modeller will tell you his build is very amateur.
Even my 7 year old daughter knows to build things up before you paint them!!!!!!!!!Jase Haha yes I watched the one with the two air scoops and thought wtf. They then say that they'll paint the parts again when glued !! No cleaning if parts / No primer and incorrect use of Tamiya paints. I'm not an expert but it's just common sense to wash them and have a base coat or primer. I'm sticking to the official build diary on here.
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Hi 'J' I totally agree stick to the build and mess about after if you have the expertise on these cars regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 14/03/2013 Posts: 96 Points: 287 Location: England
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Tomick wrote:Food for thought - The car is not complete and has not been run. The clips show lot's of guesswork and little expertise. Food for thought - This is a discussion forum. I was merely discussing an issue that I have noticed. I wasn't agreeing or siding with anyone. I am sticking to the instructions and will wait for the finished product Building: RB7 Nitro / Senna MP4/4 Finished: McLaren MP4/23
Brad.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Bdizzle84 wrote:I also watched those videos. To be fair, the front of the car is very very low. I'm built up to issue 44 and its never going to run on a road surface at the moment... Stage 53 contains information about how to adjust the ground height of the model, which is located within the 'Car-Tech' content of the download.
For those that receive the RB7 magazine, this information is provided within issue 37, pages 7-10.
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