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Small update on progress.... am still working on the sternmost bulkhead on the aft welldeck and further research showed there were two smaller bulkheads here on the port and starboard side.. Again these were not in the build instructions so set about putting them in place... the facings for these smaller bulkheads are being painted at the moment... Also, from the material I could find I went ahead and attempted to scratch build a Thermotank prototype. The prototype was done to allow me to work out scale, materials to be used and a technique in putting it together... Am quite pleased with the prototype so next task is to make the actual thermotanks to be fitted under the canopy on both sides... these thermotanks also sat on grey concrete bases....  .. The photo's just shows the tank sitting in place, nothing has been glued down... There are a number of these thermotanks all over the ship so the prototype was I think the right way to go... Also have to try scratch building two cowel vent motors which again fitted under the canopy on the port and starboard side..... Still got quite a bit of work to do on this deck so will keep you posted..... Happy building all.. Regards Alan Gandale attached the following image(s):
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 Hi Alan Have you thought of casting those thermotanks with resin/plastic http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=5607
http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=5628
Just an idea regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Thanks for commenting Andy and for your suggestion, appreciated as always... I had thought about casting the thermotanks thanks to your post in the tool section. Had to do a prototype build first though as I needed to work out the scale and fit, had to work from a scale plan of 1:384. The other problem I saw was that although there are many of these thermotanks on the ship the actual layout of the various components is different in each case dependant upon where they are situated... Would have to mould each of the components in turn so yes, I now believe your suggestion of casting is the way to go.... The other problem is I am not sure of the contents of the final part 5 as that hasn't arrived yet, I do know however these two tanks are not included in the kit... Once again, having never attempted casting before should make for an interesting experience.... Will go for the kit you and Mr T have recommended and see how we get on so once again thanks for the assist...... Best regards Alan
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Hi all, completed work as far as I can just now on the forward bulkhead of the aft welldeck.... Again a number of changes not on the build instructions such as, windows on the far bulkheads complete with Krystal Klear for glass, additional doors and bulkhead lights...  .. Hoping to finish the 2 small additional bulkheads on the opposite side tomorrow.... .. Also, took a break from working on the welldeck and decided to line the lower deck with tin foil, found alphatic holds it in place very nicely.... want to achieve as much light reflection as I can for the portholes due to the thickness of the double planking.. I also intend to line the underside of the decks ... ... More soon.... Regards Alan Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Glazed windows look good, following with interest
jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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jase wrote:Glazed windows look good, following with interest
jase Thanks for looking in Jase.... appreciated.. Regards Alan
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Hi there Alan! You're really coming on in leaps and bounds now! It doesn't take long to catch the super-detail bug! Trouble is, once you've got it, you can never build a simple 'as is' kit again! I like your Thermotanks, that's some really good scratch building there, I think the mould and cast method is the way to go, I'll be doing a lot of it myself with both the Victory crew figures and the Great War model too! The difference is, I'm making the moulds for white metal casting rather than resin. The actual mould making is virtually identical, a treacle-like compound mixed with a liquid hardener to produce a medium-hard rubber mould but one that copes with the temperatures of the molten white metal (hot, but not that hot! you can melt the stuff over a gas hob in an old saucepan!) I like the white metal though as there's absolutely no wastage, if the casting isn't perfect it just goes straight back in the pan to melt down again! Looking forward to seeing how you get on! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Plymouth57 wrote:Hi there Alan! You're really coming on in leaps and bounds now! It doesn't take long to catch the super-detail bug! Trouble is, once you've got it, you can never build a simple 'as is' kit again! I like your Thermotanks, that's some really good scratch building there, I think the mould and cast method is the way to go, I'll be doing a lot of it myself with both the Victory crew figures and the Great War model too! The difference is, I'm making the moulds for white metal casting rather than resin. The actual mould making is virtually identical, a treacle-like compound mixed with a liquid hardener to produce a medium-hard rubber mould but one that copes with the temperatures of the molten white metal (hot, but not that hot! you can melt the stuff over a gas hob in an old saucepan!) I like the white metal though as there's absolutely no wastage, if the casting isn't perfect it just goes straight back in the pan to melt down again! Looking forward to seeing how you get on! Robin Hi Robin, thanks for the really nice constructive comments, very much appreciated.... I would be very interested in the materials and suppliers you use for your white metal castings, think I would prefer that method rather than using resin... Have a feeling resin pieces and I'm going by a post I read somewhere on this that resin can be brittle. You could be right too, maybe the super detail bug is setting in but just now I am seeing so much detail missing on the kit and I'm only noticing this because of the amount of research I am doing..... I still think the kit it superb, build as instructed and it will be a fab model, I just want to add my own signature to it...... .. Hope I hear from you soon.... Best regards Alan
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Coming along nicley Alan
I see the new Billings Titanic kit appears to have heaps of ply panelling for the hull rather than planking.
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Tomick wrote:Coming along nicley Alan
I see the new Billings Titanic kit appears to have heaps of ply panelling for the hull rather than planking. Hit Mr T, thanks for looking in..... interesting comment you made regarding the Billings kit... This kit has a lot of ply etch for the hull, applied after the 2nd planking is complete, hence my little conundrum. The ply etch is so very thin and considering I have to drill out all of the portholes means the ply is so very easily damaged during the process.... .. Looking at simply taping the ply in place, marking the portholes and then drilling the holes before finally applying the ply etch..... accuracy may end up being the problem here.... Thinking the other solution is to trace the ply etch, apply that to the hull and work from there, when complete then apply the etch and paint...... Not quite decided yet..... Thanks again and regards Alan
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A little more progress..... completed adding the two small additional bulkheads on the aft well deck. On each of these two small bulkheads were stored 2 propeller shaft spanners, these were made out of left over wire from small resistors and flattened out with long nosed pliers.... .. Moved onto temporarily pinning the decks in place prior to planking, these need to be removed again later to allow me access to the inside for fitting all the lighting and of course drill out all of the portholes. Aft well deck also dry fitted and hopefully will be fully fitted tomorrow along with the pinning of the rest of the decks.... Have noticed though ribs 2 and 3 on the starboard side will need to be packed out a little when it comes to fairing the hull. More again soon.... Regards Alan Gandale attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Shes going to be a beauty Alan, Just out of interest, I was looking at the Billing Boats facebook page today - do you have an opinion good or bad about the new Titanic? Steve
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stevie_o wrote:Shes going to be a beauty Alan, Just out of interest, I was looking at the Billing Boats facebook page today - do you have an opinion good or bad about the new Titanic?
Steve Thanks Stevie. Have to agree with you, she should turn out to be a beauty that is providing things go as I hope they will..... I have had a look at the new Billing Boats kit and right now my opinion has to be rather muted. Firstly, my build is 1:200 scale so the Billing version being 1:144 means it's even bigger, think you would have to select where to display rather carefully. Nowhere have I found where it shows the exact contents of the kit, nor have I seen any detailed photo's of the finished article..... I really would have to see some completed kits before I would be willing to splash out on the price they are retailing at.... So for me just now think I will stay rather neutral on this, time will tell whether they have a successful kit or not..... That said, it would be nice to see someone within the forum take it on and publish a diary..... could you be that person I wonder.... Thanks again.. Regards Alan
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Noooo, not me Alan, I've not got £900 to splash out just yet, and I agree with you about there not being much info on the kit, fittings etc and at 6 feet 2 inches long it is a bit big . I and my wife like the Titanic and I think the one you are doing is pure quality - with the added bonus of buying the sections as you need them. Steve
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stevie_o wrote:Noooo, not me Alan, I've not got £900 to splash out just yet, and I agree with you about there not being much info on the kit, fittings etc and at 6 feet 2 inches long it is a bit big . I and my wife like the Titanic and I think the one you are doing is pure quality - with the added bonus of buying the sections as you need them. Steve Ahh, never mind Stevie, just got the impression you were tempted to splash the cash  .... The buying of this Mantua kit in sections is I think and excellent idea... Starting with part 1 it is likely to be several months before you need to get the next part.... Incidentally, I have just now ordered some more etch railings from Minibrass so will post pics of the sets when they arrive..... Thanks again.. Regards Alan
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Hi all, have now temporarily pinned the decks in place. Pre drilled the pin holes first to ensure nothing split or broke... Next stage is to attach 4 balsa blocks to the stern area to aid getting the shape of the stern right then can get down to fairing the hull... have a couple of ribs that will need to be build up slightly but nothing drastic.... .. Here are the pics of how she looks now..... Regards Alan Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Looking good, really can't wait to see some planks going on Im just too impatient! Steve
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stevie_o wrote:Looking good, really can't wait to see some planks going on Im just too impatient! Steve Thanks Stevie, am hoping to start planking within the next couple of weeks... Think that will take some time to complete as the instructions say to plank, then paint over with diluted PVA, apply modellers tissue and again coat again with diluted PVA before starting the second layer of planking.. Think all this was to ensure a waterproof hull for the R/C build and as this is a static build only am not really sure whether all that is really necessary in this instance.... will see what I do when I get to that stage...... .. Thanks again for looking in.... Regards Alan
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Hi Alan Just thought I would add this as, In no way will the application of tissue and watered down PVA water proof the hull in any way, its just a means of preparing the surface for the next set of planks and in my honest opinion a rather fussy way to do it. If it was water proofing a laminating epoxy or such like would be used to achieve this not PVA which as you know is a water based product. I think a better way would be to use grey primer and sand back so you find all the high and low spots so a good level surface is presented to the next layer regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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arpurchase wrote: Hi Alan Just thought I would add this as, In no way will the application of tissue and watered down PVA water proof the hull in any way, its just a means of preparing the surface for the next set of planks and in my honest opinion a rather fussy way to do it. If it was water proofing a laminating epoxy or such like would be used to achieve this not PVA which as you know is a water based product. I think a better way would be to use grey primer and sand back so you find all the high and low spots so a good level surface is presented to the next layer regards Andy Hi Andy, thanks for that... Thought the instructions were rather strange and initially I thought maybe it was to give added strength due to its length but then I ruled that out... Also thought it strange if it were to help with waterproofing as there is nothing in the instructions to say how to waterproof the hull.. Other than that I couldn't really come up with an explanation as to why all the tissue and PVA were necessary.. Think I will end up going with your suggestion of grey primer and sanding back... Even after the second layer is applied there is then a layer of ply etch to go on.... All good fun eh!! Thanks again.... Regards Alan
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