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Coppering Victory's Hull Options
Tomick
#61 Posted : 09 July 2010 15:41:51

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Ensuring its something like scale pitch as they vary greatly
ArtfulBodger
#62 Posted : 09 July 2010 18:27:27

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luna wrote:
having just re re read Admins post it appears the copper bottom is an optional extra mag, i DO NOT THINK SO ADMIN this was clearly advertised on both the dvd and the adds and as far as i am concerned this is not an option but part of the KIT, if this is not so i have a feeling you will be paying back an awful lot of money to people. and risk being sued for false advertisement. My apologies mike i see where your coming from now.

Glen


I think you are looking for the Misrepresentation Act 1967 section 2 (1)
See also:
Unfair Contract Terms Act and
Sale of Goods Act
ArtfulBodger


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HMS. Bounty
philjaps1
#63 Posted : 09 July 2010 20:50:11

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At last..... thanks for the info Admin BigGrin


That's sound advise that Lonestar, personally I have used the type that cake decorators use, in the past with good results. Although with this build I’ll be using plates.

Phil
pall mall
#64 Posted : 10 July 2010 22:39:51

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i dont think it realy matters about the copper hull as long as we all enjoy the build and it turns out ok.
Shipbuilder 58
#65 Posted : 11 July 2010 11:36:57

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pall mall wrote:
i dont think it realy matters about the copper hull as long as we all enjoy the build and it turns out ok.


I think is does matter, I have read most of this thread and I think that WE should be given the option of the type of finish to use. DeAg have shown the copper finish in the ads and dvd so I think the copper should be supplied, FREE, maybe a solicitor out there could join in on this subject.

Going away from the main subject, but staying on the matter of supplied items. One would also assume, looking at the ads and dvd ALL the cannon would be supplied too, but NO, why? I read somewhere in this vast forum that somebody would not like to build 100 cannon, but isn’t that modelling is all about, building things. In a past life I used to be a trader at model railway exhibitions and the detail that went in to those layouts was second to none. They didn’t leave stuff out because they didn’t feel like putting it in.

Are the sails an optional extra too?

Does anybody know how many crew we are going to be supplied with, or are those extra too?

Sunday morning rant over.
Mac
#66 Posted : 11 July 2010 13:10:13

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Lonestar Spirit wrote:
Well said Piot007 ThumpUp
I would have liked the 100 Cannons, it would have given me something to do, instead of listening to the wife go on about someone having an affair on Private Practice? Bloody soaps!!!! BigGrin I sat there for 20 mins waiting for some juicy gossip, but to find out it was a fictional character, well!!!Huh

PS if we are going to be using copper tape, you might want to invest in a pin wheel, this is used to create the effect of rivets, you can get them from some hobby shops, or a tailor shop.


Hi lonestar, great quip about Private Practise! LOL but can you explain wot a Pinwheel is? I googled it and it come up with "Bondage Pinwheel sale" or childrens toy windmills? BigGrin
Pam's shipyard is closed for now no more room!




Blue_Joe
#67 Posted : 11 July 2010 13:41:32

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ArtfulBodger wrote:

I think you are looking for the Misrepresentation Act 1967 section 2 (1)
See also:
Unfair Contract Terms Act and
Sale of Goods Act


Think you'll find you wouldn't have a leg to stand on!

It may be shown in adverts as having a copper hull. However the copper hull is available with the kit - as an optional extra therefore they haven't mislead you. You may have an unstable leg to stand on if it had shown a copper hull and the copper hull wasn't available at all. The advert shows the model being built and being painted. However they are not giving paint away with it and they certainly aren't coming round my house to build it - could I sue them for that as misrepresentation???

Also most of the pics show no copper hull and also if you look at features of the model in the advert on the web it says this about the build
"Authentic wood and metal construction
Just like the real ship, the hull is made by layering hardwood planking over wooden ribs, with metal fittings."
No mention of copper!

At the end of the day it's quite simple - build it and enjoy it or cancel you subs and don't. The admin has clarified DeAgostini's position and I for one am happy with it. I'll choose when we get somewhat nearer the time as to whether I want to copper it and if I do how to do it. But isn't this post of whineing already long enough?????

2p!

Mike Turpin
#68 Posted : 11 July 2010 13:43:18

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Hi Mac

I have been researching this and you can try googling 'pounce wheel' or some modelling sites offer a 'riveting tool'. I would appreciate some comments from LoneStar on where he got his wheel from and what tooth pitch he has used.

Perhaps you could show us some results from your coppering, particularly using copper tape which appears to be DeAg's preferred option.

Mike T
Mac
#69 Posted : 11 July 2010 14:55:15

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Mike Turpin wrote:
Hi Mac

I have been researching this and you can try googling 'pounce wheel' or some modelling sites offer a 'riveting tool'. I would appreciate some comments from LoneStar on where he got his wheel from and what tooth pitch he has used.

Perhaps you could show us some results from your coppering, particularly using copper tape which appears to be DeAg's preferred option.

Mike T


Thanks Mike, I did as you suggested, I understand now and will await further information. BigGrin
Pam's shipyard is closed for now no more room!




Lonestar Spirit
#70 Posted : 12 July 2010 11:47:08

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Hi Guys, well seeing as I'm in a wheel chair, I dont think the bondage link you found would do me any good Drool LOL as for the children's toy windmills, the wife would agree I'm a big kid, always playing with toys, except mine usually cost significantly more than our kids BigGrin
The wife knows that if we go shopping, the best place to leave me is in a hobby or tool shop, that way she knows I will sty put for a few hours, but I have noticed allot of local hobby shops no longer supply the vast array of tools they used to, I dont know why but think Internet shopping is too competitive for them? my local shop now only retails the basics. Anyway The tools I refer to in my previous post (Pin wheels) the other name for them is Pounce Wheel, can be purchased in different sizes, so I am informed, although I only have two.
Below are a few links to give you a better idea, I hope they help.

http://www.dickblick.com...aluminum-pounce-wheels/
http://vimeo.com/349946
http://www.modelshipwrig...les/CopperSheathing.pdf


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andylangtree
#71 Posted : 12 July 2010 14:12:37

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Anybody got any idea how many teeth per inch the pin/pounce wheels are going to need? It seems there are 2, 15 or 21 teeth per inch. I found this site
http://www.goldleafsuppl...l%23a8106_2fS#a8106_2fS
Emailed them and got the following reply:

No 9 Pounce Wheel = 1/4" Diameter 21 teeth per inch
No 10 Pounce Wheel = 1/4" Diameter 15 teeth per inch - bevelled both sides to centre
No 11 Pounce Wheel = 1/4" Diameter 15 teeth per inch - bevelled on 1 side to follow straight line
No 12 Pounce Wheel = 7/16" Diameter 15 teeth per inch.

piot007
#72 Posted : 12 July 2010 18:35:13

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Well, it really does look the part. Great effect.
Spiralling cost tho. Up and up!
Now comes the advise of the pro's for cheap alternatives. Blunted compass point and ruler anyone. Flapper
i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
Mike Turpin
#73 Posted : 12 July 2010 18:44:03

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andylangtree wrote:
Anybody got any idea how many teeth per inch the pin/pounce wheels are going to need? It seems there are 2, 15 or 21 teeth per inch. I found this site
http://www.goldleafsuppl...l%23a8106_2fS#a8106_2fS
Emailed them and got the following reply:

No 9 Pounce Wheel = 1/4" Diameter 21 teeth per inch
No 10 Pounce Wheel = 1/4" Diameter 15 teeth per inch - bevelled both sides to centre
No 11 Pounce Wheel = 1/4" Diameter 15 teeth per inch - bevelled on 1 side to follow straight line
No 12 Pounce Wheel = 7/16" Diameter 15 teeth per inch.



Great minds think alike! I e-mailed the same question!

Mike T
Zeptrader
#74 Posted : 12 July 2010 18:47:25

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There is another way, without actually looking into it but as far as my limited knowledge goes ship had different patterns on the copper plating, below is an idea from the guy who developed the Syren, he has made this drawing so all credits go to him.



I have the pdf of this section which I will need to contact him to ask his permision to share, I'm sure it will be no problem but I would like to ask first.
snowtiger
#75 Posted : 13 July 2010 00:34:36

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I have a pin wheel ....i got it free with the lancaster....it's a good tool ...maybe DeAgostini will have it on sale at there shop before we need it .....heres hopingBigGrin BigGrin BigGrin
Lonestar Spirit
#76 Posted : 13 July 2010 11:26:00

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piot007 wrote:
Well, it really does look the part. Great effect.
Spiralling cost tho. Up and up!
Now comes the advise of the pro's for cheap alternatives. Blunted compass point and ruler anyone. Flapper


Cheap alternative = Dremel rip/cross cut blade, used without power and run along edge of ruler might do the trick?

http://www.dremeleurope...._id=507&prod_id=189
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Mike Turpin
#77 Posted : 13 July 2010 11:45:27

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Lonestar Spirit wrote:
piot007 wrote:
Well, it really does look the part. Great effect.
Spiralling cost tho. Up and up!
Now comes the advise of the pro's for cheap alternatives. Blunted compass point and ruler anyone. Flapper


Cheap alternative = Dremel rip/cross cut blade, used without power and run along edge of ruler might do the trick?

http://www.dremeleurope...._id=507&prod_id=189



IF I have got my sums right, the pitch on the Dremel blade works out at about 11 teeth per inch. For our model I suspect the more teeth the better.

I have some ideas now and think I will take them further and then report back.

Mike T
Ted Smith
#78 Posted : 15 July 2010 03:06:06

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hi everyone,
to those that it concerns?!!THIS IS A RANT.so pin your ears back.
All the time that you spend on here and you don't actualy read all the posts on
here you would know the answers to your questions as they were answered some two
months ago...Bored I apologise to those that this does not apply to. TEDFlapper Bored




Time not spent in the workshop
is time wasted
piot007
#79 Posted : 15 July 2010 07:27:37

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now now. Flapper
i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
Mike Turpin
#80 Posted : 15 July 2010 09:56:16

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Ted Smith wrote:
hi everyone,
to those that it concerns?!!THIS IS A RANT.so pin your ears back.
All the time that you spend on here and you don't actualy read all the posts on
here you would know the answers to your questions as they were answered some two
months ago...Bored I apologise to those that this does not apply to. TEDFlapper Bored
Time not spent in the workshop
is time wasted


The majority of members prefer to help each other by answering questions where appropriate as they arise.

Ted, if you felt that the answers are on a post going back two months it might have been more positive to respond with the link to those posts, perhaps with a polite suggestion that members continue to use the search facility. I for one cannot remember every single post on this extensive forum, especially if it's two months ago! Smile

If the coppering bores you then don't bother to read the posts.Mellow

Mike T
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