Not sure but dont think a lathe would be suitable, only say this because my understanding is you have to have excess material you can cut off at the ends of the masts and yards. Dont think we will get excess material, i got someone i know to make an attachment for a drill that means i can support a yard from the centre and sand down, turn it around and do the other end. I could be wrong about lathe though.

Whilst the 'working length' of the Proxxon lathe is limited, the spindle/chuck/collets are all hollow and you could, with a little ingenuity, knock-up something to support longer workpieces at the exit point of the lathe.

It is actually quite a nice little lathe (and, if you buy the optional 3 and 4-jawed chucks - the machine itself is supplied with collets and a faceplate) find it to be quite a versatile little machine.

My only critique of it would be that there isn't a facilitly to swap the centering spindle with a small chuck (to hold drill bits). Apart from that, it's a good buy.

I bought mine on Tomick's recommendation and am happy with it.

Only just seen this topic, I would echo everything Capt Stedders has said. I to was recommended the Proxxon by Tomick, so we can blame him if things go wrong (Only joking Tom - honest!)

Because you can pass the dowel through the inside of the motor unit, you can work with quite long lengths. So far apart from practice pieces I have only just used it in anger on Sunday to shape up my windlass for the launch. It was a dream exercise without all of the hand shaping and sanding for just one component. A lot of money to layout because as well as the lathe you need a set of modelling size chisels but in my view well worth it and the possibilities that it offers.

Following up on what Andy said, I tried experimenting with some dowel clamped in a drill but it needed a support for the other end. Zeptrader showed his set up in an earlier post. My attempt was not very successful and when a piece of dowel spun away and narrowly missed my head I decided to go for the real thing.

I have just got an almost new Proxxon flat bed circular saw from E-bay and am looking forward to accurately cutting the planking when we get on to it.

Mike T

here a tip if you have a 200mm sliding bed, pack the none wheel end out by 2mm tighten boath ends with locks you will taper your mast approx 6mm dia to 4mm over 120mm just by machine alone different beds different tapers same with different packers , the packers i use is just off cuts of wood 2x5 mm

these were done useing the unimate1-classic end supported buy running centre

This is turning into an episode of the New Yankee Workshop with all these tools but there are some nice model machines out there but I dont fancy a divorce right now!

Hi willie!



Thank's for the tip and from your pictures looks like a good way to taper the masts, the modular design of the Unimat 1
is Great! isn't it!

I noticed this at the weekend and forgot to post it - Sorry!

It looks a real bargain, the chisels alone cost almost £40.00 new. I wish it had been there when I bought my lathe!

Mike T