|
|
|
|
 A TINY bit smaller??   Robin  First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
|
|
|
 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Thanks Jase, Did some more to this one today, The first pic shows the original tow thingy on the front, this has now been removed and I will making something else to go here from some beer can aluminium the next 3 pics show that my worries about the fit of the parts were certainly justified as I have had a pretty tough time with the inside track sides (dont know what they are called). CA glue was the only way to get these to stay put and then I had to make a CA weld line all the way down the inside - this will obviously be under the tracks so will never be seen, looks a mess right now though Pic 4 shows the tracks glued together (4 sections of each) and this is how they will stay overnight to train them into some sort of track shape. They are made of a horrible hard rubber / plastic which should be called rastic or plubber  Pic 5 shows some reinforcements inside the the "outside" track sides...if that makes sense, this was a butt joint so no support for the glue to set. Then a couple more pics of the current state of things, it may sound weird if I say that the fit of this kit is very good, BUT fitting it together is very bad...what I mean is once you work out a way for the butt joints to overlap, the right angle for each joint and manage to get them glued the fit in the end is good. And finally the last 2 pics are for Robin - is this the hatch you mean't could be left open and if so is it the whole hatch that would open or a part of that bit in the last pic. There is no hole in the hull top but I can cut one out easily enough. Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
That's the one Stevie! According to the drawings in the Haynes manual its just the top sloping panel with the hinges on that opens up and over. The same plan shows the thickness of the hatch being visible so the moving part actually sits on top of the wedge. From the look of the moulding I think it would be easier to sand off the hinges and cut out the access hole through the top and then make a new plasticard hatch cover rather than try to saw off the top. The 'angle iron' frame should only come up to the bottom of the hatch thickness not to the very top (if you can see what I mean)  Any probs, let me know and I'll scan the hatch drawing for you. My next installment should be up tomorrow! Robin PS I know just what you mean about those butt joints, so far my little 1/72's have had very good fits for the pieces but, like you, a real  trying to actually fit them together - coming on though! First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Robin - There are very few top down photos of this one on the net, I even have my own bovington pics but none of the top of the hull! I was just about to ask you for a scan of the hatch when I noticed your post in the reference books section, the haynes manual front cover shows the hatch Although your description was good enough I wanted to be sure what you meant. The best thing about a small hatch opening is that with a figure stuck in there I wont need any inside detail. Thanks Steve
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
I cut the hatch out earlier, I intend to have a figure standing here on the dio. I also had to file down the thickness of the hatch sides as they would have appeared way out of scale. The lid is made from some coffee tin metal with some brass trim round the edge and a handle, not sure if its too thin or not though really? I also have no idea what the hatch inside would have looked like, the hinges are on the outside so presumably wont be seen at this position Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Looking superb Stevie and nice work on the hatch conversion.....  .. Regards Alan
|
|
|
|
|
Looks fantastic, nice job. can't beet a bit of scratch build. as for the hinge, depending on the arangment you might have seen the rivets on the inside.
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Thanks for looking Alan & Jase, Really should be getting back to the Victory soon but Im having fun with plastic at the moment A couple more pics, made the tow plate at the front from some tin sheet and did the rivets with a pounce wheel, the same one used for the rivets on the victory, seems to have worked out ok though. The tracks went on reluctantly and I also had to pad out the underside with some strip wood to give around a 1mm gap between the side plates and track. There is still some work to do on the tracks to get the fit even all round. I may get a heatgun to warm them and let them find their own fit and then cool in position as they are made of a hard plastic rubber so very stiff. The lower pic shows the size of this thing compared to my other current build the M3 stuart, youd never think they were the same scale. A few more bits and pieces to go on now and then a good look over for cracks to fill and then he will be ready for some primer Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
I decided I wanted the sponson door open, so cut out the plastic one and fitted one from the coffee can metal again, added a few strips of rivets and seems to look ok - it's not glued in place properly yet so may look a bit wonky The big hole in the plastic door is because I was planning to cut it out from corner to corner as the plastic is so thick but then thought it best to take out in one piece to use as a template. Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Oh you rotter!! That's what I'm planning on doing for one of the half tank sections! Do you need the sponson internal pics? Looking really great! Keep them coming Stevie. Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Thankyou Robin, I did the sponson door as I have downloaded a copy of the Airwaves photo etch instructions and there is a door supplied there that can be left open. Although I cant get the etch anywhere it dosent really matter now as im making the etch parts instead. There are a couple of rivet strips to add to the unditching rail brackets and some bits on the exhaust too. As for pics then yes if you can, but - Im going to have the door closed a little more than is shown in the pics so not much will be seen inside. I have found a tank crew figure - My son had a box of tamiya russian tank crew from ww2 but one of them has the full overalls on and no hat so he's perfect for the open hatch. Thanks for the other pic btw, I dont think I need to put in that latch to be honest but nice to see it. Steve
|
|
|
|
|
Fab skills being shown here Stevie, really enjoy following your work.... Regards Alan
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Thanks again Alan, nice to see other's with an interest in the plastic too, gives me a short break from the Vic before I get onto the ratlines Steve
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
The plastic exhaust was not too good in this kit either so I have made one from some metal rod and tin sheet, the plastic one was too straight and looked wrong but with the metal could bend the pipe to match the real thing. Thankyou Robin for the pic, however I have now fitted the sponsons and with the door closed a little more not much can be seen in there anyway, I did give it a white spray but that cant even be seen so the detail would have been wasted I think. The unditching rails are next and I think I may use the kit ones but cut off the brackets and replace them and fit some extra rivet strips too. Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Wow! I love that exhaust, you might have to disregard my next posting with the bit about'getting the exhaust ready for painting" Brilliantly done! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
|
|
|
 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Taking great shape Steve
|
|
|
|
|
Really taking shape now and looking the part..... Looking forward to seeing more..... Regards Alan
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Thanks for the comments guys Managed to get the unditching rails on at last they were complete swines, I was going to replace them but got them done eventually. They are pretty much in scale but the brackets were wrong so I cut those off. Also, the Emhar kit rails has the flat side of these facing inward which is wrong - so changing the brackets also gave me the opportunity to reverse these. Did a little filler here and there, not as much as thought Id need though and then a black primer. I always use black as when the base colour is oversprayed the missed recesses and cracks show darker and looks much better. BTW Robin, after much deliberation I think I may have to go for a green base with lots of brown washes, even though I still think brown is the right colour Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
What a difference that black primer makes! She looks quite 'evil' somehow! Must admit, I'm not looking forward to those rails either and I might go down your route and reverse them as well I would have to admit as well, the brown scheme is the more logical for the western front but somehow green just looks better and more 'British'! Looking really great! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Thankyou Robin, Got the base green on now and also the "friendly" ID markings as this is a late war version. I needed to make this a 12th Battalion tank so had to create a stencil for the "L" prefix with the crew number. The stencil is just masking tape and then I just dabbed the white on with a flat sponge, I wanted it to look slightly grainy and am fairly happy with the lettering. This tank as you can see is L51 with the name "Lynx" I have narrowed down my grandads tank crew to around 15 numbers now as he was injured on the 21st August 1918. So, Im going by the tanks of 12th battalion "C" company that were used on that day at the battle of Albert. I went for Lynx also as the name will be hand painted and its only 4 letters Obviously the white lettering will be well toned down after the weathering and washes etc - looks a bit weird being bright white The serial number will be 8004 and I may have to get some decals for this. stevie_o attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
Guest (7)
|
US
