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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The McLaren MP4/4 was one of the most dominant Formula One cars ever built, winning all but one race of the 1988 season.
It was designed by American engineer Steve Nichols, with assistance from the team's Technical Director Gordon Murray. Nichols based the design on the lowline Brabham BT55, designed by Murray for the 1986 season when Murray was chief designer at Brabham.
In 1988, Brazilian rising star Ayrton Senna had moved from Lotus to McLaren, his raw speed complemented the then two-time World Champion Alain Prost. With the two best drivers on the grid, Murray's ultra-low MP4/4 chassis and the new Honda V6 engine, made for an unbeatable combination.
Having completed just a handful of laps in the MP4/4, Alain Prost reportedly told Team Principle Ron Dennis that he knew the car would win the World Championship.
The 1988 season saw the MP4/4 win 15 out of 16 races, and by the end of the season McLaren had scored a phenomenal 199 points in the Constructors’ Championship, almost three times that of runner-up Ferrari.
In its final year of development the 1.5 litre Honda RA168E V6 turbo engine was at times putting out in excess of 700bhp. A total of six MP4/4 chassis were built for the 1988 season, even though they would be obsolete by the end of the year when the new 3.5 litre normally aspirated engine rules came into force in 1989.
The chassis numbers, 1 through 6, were used throughout the year. All six MP4/4 chassis still exist: Chassis #1, 3, 4, & 6 are owned by the McLaren Group, with #1 on display at the McLaren Technology Centre, and #3 on loan and displayed at the Donnington Grand Prix Exhibition. Another is on display at the National Motor Museum in Beaulieu (UK). Chassis #5 is owned by Honda and sometimes on display at the Honda Collection Hall at Motegi, Japan. Chassis #2 is in a private collection.
McLaren's 50th anniversary was celebrated at the 2013 Goodwood Festival of Speed, during which, chassis #1 was given an outing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ir0y2TlVxUs
Top Gear MP4/4 tribute:
https://www.youtube.com/...edded&v=tKsI2Dqr41A
The MP4/4 remains as the best Grand Prix car ever built by McLaren and is commonly referred to as the "Senna car". Ayrton Senna has been voted the greatest Formula One driver of all time in various motorsport polls.
http://www.youtube.com/w...edded&v=3ORwAEcBSP0
The McLaren MP4/4 model
Manufactured by Kyosho under license from McLaren & Honda, and officially endorsed by the Ayrton Senna Institute and Professor Gordon Murray, one of the MP4/4 designers.
http://www.youtube.com/w...edded&v=wEgEj3Uixas
1:8 scale replica of the 1988 World Championship winning McLaren MP4/4 driven by Ayrton Senna.
Dimensions: Length 552mm. Width 268mm. Height 124mm.
The content of the kit is made up of diecast metal, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) and HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) plastic parts, aluminium and synthetic rubber.
All components and bodywork are pre-painted - no painting required.
The nose, body cowl, rear wing, tires, front under-panel, and rear under-panel can all be removed, allowing you to view the interior construction even after completing the model. Also the front wing can be removed from the finished model and the angle of the flaps can be adjusted to your preference. The steering is also operable.
Made of die-cast metal, ABS plastic and thermoplastic rubber, this is a must-have model for any collector, Senna or F1 fan. The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible.
The specification of the model reflects the MP4/4 driven by Ayrton Senna at the 1988 Japanese Grand Prix.
https://www.youtube.com/...edded&v=CxKWRXA6FnE
A portion of the revenue from the Ayrton Senna brand goes to the Ayrton Senna institute.
Order page: http://senna-mclaren.model-space.com/gb/
Official video build:
https://www.youtube.com/...piuN4wR59-KMA2x950Jnfeq
The official build diary will follow the format of the instructions and will not ihave any enhancement to the base build. You can of course build, enhance and finish the model how you so choose.
Please Note: Official build diary images & text are protected under UK copyright law.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Elite        Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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The official build will follow that of the Magazine.
Tips:
Test fitting: To minimise the risk of any errors in assembly, it is always best to test-fit all parts before applying any glue to them.
Adhesives: You will need three types of Adhesive when assembling this model.
Instant – Adhesive (superglue), HIPS (High-Impact- Polystyrene) and ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
Pack 1 contains Stages 1- 3
Stage 1 - Contains the front wing, nose, lower nose box, upper nose box, left cam cover, Honda Logo and some wet and dry (600) grit paper.
Test fit the nose to the front wing, Engage the highlighted area (red lines) of the nose over the black section in the middle of the front wing, with the two points (arrowed) at the front of the wing. The sides of the nose should be positioned on the outside of the projections on the front wing.
You will need a sharp Hobby Knife, Masking Tape, a Toothpick and Polystyrene (HIPs) adhesive.
Stage 1 assembly – Assembling the front wing and nose
Prepare some strips of masking tape for the following step.
Scrape away the black paint from the outsides of the projections of the front wing using the blunt edge of a hobby knife as shown. (You can use the 600 grit wet and dry if you prefer to rather than a knife)
Using a toothpick, apply a small amount of glue to the contact points between the wing and the nose.
Engage the nose and the front wing again as in the test fit and hold the together for 2-3 minutes as the glue sets.
Take the masking tape you prepared earlier to hold the two parts in place while the glue sets.
(Place the parts aside to dry for about an hour to make sure the glue has set properly)
Tips: Avoid placing the masking tape on the top side of the nose to avoid damaging the Logos.
Before the glue sets, make sure the front wing is horizontal as shown below.
Assembling the Nose Box..
Prepare 2 lengths of masking tape. 1 x 7cm long and 1 x 10cm long.
Take the 2 sections of the nose box as shown and test fit the 2 halves noticing how they go together and the projection points circled in red.
Apply a small amount of adhesive using a toothpick to the areas outlined in red in the photos below, on both sides of the upper nose box.
(These areas have not been painted so there is no need to scrape away any paint as you did with the nose)
Fit the nose parts together and hold them for 2-3 minutes
Using the 2 pieces of masking tape you prepared earlier, secure the two nose halves together as shown and allow the adhesive to set. Once the adhesive has set, you can then remove the masking tape.
Now take the Honda Logo and test fit it to the Cam Cover, The Honda Logo will not be fitted until a later stage but for now secure it with a piece of masking tape from behind as show in the picture but be careful not place the tape over the Logo.
This completes the first stage of the front wing assembly. Carefully store any remaining parts.
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Stage 2 - Contains a Front tyre, A front Wheel, Engine Block front, Right Front wing endplate, Left Front wing endplate, Front flap Left, Front flap Right, a small Phillips Screwdriver and Screws.
Retrieve the front wing assembly from stage 1 and locate the 2 holes on the left front wing endplate. Place the endplate against the end of the wing and insert 2 “C” type screws. Do not tighten the screws fully into the holes so that you can still see some of the thread.
Insert the projections of the front left flap into the holes and tighten the 2 screws just enough to fix the flap but not enough to prevent it from moving. Choose which hole you want your flap to be positioned and insert a type “A” Screw and tighten into place holding the flap in position as you do so. Now repeat for the right side of the wing nose.
Take the front wheel provided and locate the indent on the rim. Take the tyre and note that the indent should be aligned with the “G” in the Eagle Logo. Push the wheel rim into the tyre so that the sidewalls fit into the grooves in the wheel rims. Turn the wheel around to check that both sides are sitting properly.
Carefully store any remaining parts.
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Stage 3 – Engine block, rear tyre, 2xbrake pads, inner and out brake calliper, brake disk inner and outer and the left rear wing endplate.
Take the two disk brake halves and test fit them together noting how the ventilation slots are positioned. Using a toothpick, apply Polystyrene adhesive to the inner surface and press the two halves together. Check that the ventilation slots are aligned.
Now take the brake pads and remove any paint as shown in the pictures below. Tests fit each pad and apply a small amount of Polystyrene adhesive and glue into position as shown.
Now take the 2 calliper halves and remove any paint from the projections. Test fit the two calliper halves to see how they go together and then apply a small amount of Polystyrene adhesive and combine the 2 halves holding them for a few minutes until bonded.
Take the engine block provided in this stage and the front engine block from stage 2. Place the engine block front onto the end of the engine block, aligning the 2 holes. Take 2 “C” type screws and tighten them into the two holes but don’t over tighten as you will need to remove the engine block front again at a later stage.
Carefully store any remaining parts.
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Pack 2 contains Stages 4-7
Stage 4 – Contains the Engine block rear, Rear wing endplate (right), Clutch disk x 3, Clutch disc cover, Outer brake caliper, Inner brake caliper, Rear wing joint, Brake pads x 2 and type “C” and “D” Screws.
Assembling and Installing the Clutch
Position the clutch cover with the projections facing upwards. Now position the clutch discs with the round casting marks facing upwards into the disc cover as shown.
Holding the clutch assembly together, place it over the shaft projection of the rear engine block from this stage. Rotate the clutch assembly until the holes both align and the blue markings align as shown.
Now turn the Engine block over and insert 2 x “C” type screws into the holes in the back of the engine block and tighten into place with a Phillips screwdriver but do not over tighten. (Hold the engine block and clutch firmly together when you are tightening the screws)
Assembling the Engine
Retrieve the cam cover from stage 1 and the engine assembly from stage 3. Place the engine block rear over the blank side of the main engine block, aligning the 3 holes. Insert a “D” type screw into each of the aligned holes and tighten into place with a Phillips screwdriver. These parts will need to removed at a later stage, so don’t over tighten them at this point.
Retrieve the cam cover with the masking tape from stage 3 and place it over the left side (looking in from the clutch) and align both holes, now temporarily fix the cam cover into place using 2 “D” type screws. Tighten the screws alternately a little at a time but do not over tighten.
Assembling the Brake callipers
Scrape away the paint from the centre of each caliper and brake pad as you did in a previous step being careful not to damage the paint on any other part of the caliper.
Continue with the assembly of the caliper referring to the process in stage 3.
Carefully store any remaining parts
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Stage 5 – Contains the Rear wing Upper, Rear wing Under, Rear flap (rear) Rear flap (front) and the lower nose tip.
Assembling the rear wing and the rear flap front
Test fit the Upper rear wing and Under rear wing parts together noticing how they fit together. Take the under rear wing and gently scrape away the paint from the ends as shown, making sure you do not damage the projections. Now scrap away any paint from the underside of the wing as shown.
Take the Upper rear wing and remove the paint from the sides being careful not to damage the projections on either side.
Prepare a 3cm length of masking tape and have it ready. Apply Polystyrene adhesive around the edge of the rear wing Under and combine the two wing parts as you did in the test fit and hold for a few minutes until the adhesive has set.
Retrieve the rear wing joint from stage 4 and test fit it against the rear flap front from this stage, noticing how the projection goes into the hole of the flap front.
Now carefully scrape away any paint as shown where the rear wing joint will be fixed to the rear flap front. Using a toothpick, apply a small amount of adhesive to the inner area of the Joint and place it onto the flap as you did earlier, holding for a few minutes until the adhesive has bonded. Now apply a little adhesive with a toothpick to the rear wing joint and combine the rear wing flap with the rear wing as shown.
Take the length of masking tape you prepared earlier and position as shown to maintain the hold until the glue is completely dry.
Assembling the rear wing, the flaps and the right endplate
Lay out the rear wing endplates supplied in stages 3 and 4 as shown in the picture below to identify which is left and right. (No holes in the LEFT endplate pass through the number 12)
Take the rear wing assembly from earlier and test fit it noting how the projections go into the holes on the RIGHT endplate. Take the rear flap (rear) from this stage and position it in the uppermost holes as shown.
Prepare one 3cm length and one 5cm length of masking tape. Apply Polystyrene adhesive to the right ends of the wing and flap and refit them to the RIGHT endplate. Place the endplate onto a cutting mat so that the raised detail sits off the edge and hold the assembly at a right angle for a few minutes. Use the 3cm strip of masking tape to hold it in place and allow to completely dry. (You may wish to use a square to set the right angle correctly) Take the rear flap and apply adhesive to the right side and combine it with the endplate. Take the 5cm piece of masking tape and apply to the rear flaps to hold until completely dry.
Prepare another 3cm length of masking tape. Apply Polystyrene adhesive to the other end of the wing and flaps. Carefully combine with the left endplate in the same way as you did with the right. Holding the assembly together, place the endplate onto a cutting mat with the edge off the mat and allow to completely dry.
Take the Lower nose tip from this stage and test fit it with the front wing from stage 2 Have a 6cm piece of masking tape ready. Scrape away the paint from the sides of the projections as shown on the underside of the front wing. Apply Polystyrene adhesive to the edges of the lower nose and engage it to the front wing and hold it in position until the adhesive has bonded. Take the 6cm piece of masking tape and position as shown being careful not to place it over the logos on the nose.
Carefully store any remaining parts
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Stage 6 – Contains the left rear wing stay, right rear wing stay, Plenum Chamber, Front wing skid (right), Front wing skid (left) Plug caps x3.
Stage 6 Assembly – Rear Wing Stays
Take the left and right wing stays from this stage and remove any paint from the areas shown below being careful not to damage the projections.
Using a toothpick, apply Polystyrene adhesive the area that you removed the paint from on the right stay. Combine the two rear wing stays together at the glued point and hold for a couple of minutes until the adhesive has set.
Now apply a small amount of adhesive with a toothpick around the inside edges of the slot in the rear wing as shown. Insert the rear wing stay and hold for a few minutes until set and carefully set aside to dry.
Assembling the Front wing skids
Before removing any paint, test fit and identify the left wing skid. Now remove a line of paint as shown below. Now take the corresponding front wing endplate and remove a 1mm strip of paint from the area shown below. Apply adhesive with a cocktail stick along the 1mm line of removed paint on the left wing skid and fit it to the left wing endplate and hold for a few minutes until the adhesive has bonded.
Now do the same for the right hand side.
Carefully store any remaining partsWarthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Stage 7 – Contains the cam cover (right), Honda logo plate, Alternator belt, Alternator rear, alternator front, pressure regulator top, air chamber end, plug caps x3 and screws.
Fitting the Honda Logos
Take the Honda Logo that came with this stage and gently remove any casting flash left over at either end. Take the cam cover and turn it over and using a toothpick apply a small amount of INSTANT (CA)adhesive to each end of the Honda Logo and fit into the cam cover as shown.
In the same way that you did with the left Cam cover, place the right into the right hand side of the engine with tow “D” type screws but do not over tighten.
Remove the left cam cover that was secured to the engine block in stage 4 and repeat the process above for the Honda Logo and refit the cam back onto the engine block.
The Plenum Chamber
Test fit the Air chamber end onto the Plenum Chamber. Now using a toothpick, apply some INSTANT adhesive to the small pin and inner edge on the plenum chamber and fit the air chamber end back into position and hold until the adhesive has cured.
Take the air pressure regulator and test fit it to the air chamber end by inserting it into the hole. Note the position of the pressure regulator before applying and adhesive.
Now apply a small amount of plastic adhesive to the inside of the hole of the chamber end and insert the pressure regulator. Adjust the position of the pressure regulator before the adhesive sets.
The Alternator
Take the two alternator parts provided and test fit them together noticing how the fit. Scrape away any paint from the edges to be glued being careful not to damage the projections. Apply a small amount of Polystyrene adhesive to one of the alternator halves and fit together as shown.
Carefully store any unused parts for later use
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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