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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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That is a good question John.I will probably buy one pack and then try it out see how it looks when I post the pics. cheers rob
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Hope I don't get envious.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Hi folks!, Just ordered the tiles 1 of each to see which is best, The guy was very helpful and he supplies tiles specific for Victory (no rivet marks) The ones I have ordered can be trimmed and overlapped apparently this was how it was done (don`t shoot the messenger) waiting patiently for them to arrive to see what is what. cheers for now rob
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/04/2013 Posts: 342 Points: 1,029 Location: Essex
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Hi Rob, The copper plates on Victory were 4ft by 1ft 2inch (1200X350mm),and had 31 rivets along the top and bottom and 10 down the sides, they were overlapped by about 1 1/8 inch (28mm approx.)on all sides, so at your 1/84 scale you are looking at 14mm X 4mm. On my 1/100 scale Victory I used tiles that were 15mm X 5mm which would be close to what you need. I got them several years ago and will try to remember where. The two versions you mentioned are both a bit large for your scale, but on saying that, so were mine and I,m very pleased with the way it looks. If you do go with the ones you have seen, I would go with the 1/72 tiles as they are the smallest and have the edge rivets (although not the right amount). Regards Alan ps I will try to locate where I got my tiles. England expects that every man will do his duty.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Hi Alan, Thanks for that ,I was going to cut them to size and see what they looked like. Do you think it will be really noticeable if it slightly bigger. I am trying to get away from putting all them rivet marks on them myself, I think it would take too much time for me. Working all day just an hour or so at night to work on it . thanks mate
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/04/2013 Posts: 342 Points: 1,029 Location: Essex
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Hi Rob, Located the 15mm X 5mm copper plates that I used, but can't believe the price I remember they weren't cheap,(and there wasn't much choice as I remember) but didn't think they were that much (they probably weren't when I got them about 7-8 years ago). They also do the ones you have mentioned. Perhaps the smaller ones are harder to make Here is the link anyway. http://www.cornwallmodel...tua_plating.html#a32900
I don't think that it will look to bad being slightly larger than scale, but I would say that , If you haven't already, have a look at my build, once the copper mellows and tarnishes a bit it blends in better anyway. I think cutting them to size would be a very time consuming exercise even if you get them all right first time, plus costly if you don't Regards Alan England expects that every man will do his duty.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Hi Alan, I did look at your build and if got it half as good as that I will be pleased. Thanks for the link but they are a bit pricey, I will try the ones I have ordered and then show them actual size and trim some of them and how hard it is going to be . Don`t know yet how I am going to hold them on temporary yet Thanks again mate rob
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Hi Folks!! Working from the pictures in the mag the measurements are different to mine,as you can see they are further over underneath the handrail, Will this make any difference with anything or will I make adjustments before I paint it. It is the 29mm measurement is further over than the mag. The 24mm one is the width, so had to bring it in to look relatively even. It looks a mess at the mo will clean it up before I paint. Please advise rob ps Just ignore the fighting top jpg3 as it just won`t display. thanks rob File Attachment(s): sandnesspeats attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi Making great progress here, my masts are currently put away until needed but I can take a look if you wish, I really dont see any problems arising from where you have drilled these holes though. Regards Steve
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Hi steve, I was just that the holes in the mag are more to the sides,then i looked at the tomicks official build and they are the same as mine?. Just put the blocks this afternoon seems to be ok!!. Thanks for the reply mate rob
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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hi,I remember at the time,there was an issue with the plans/lining up holes ect. believe it was a typo on the plans,follow tomicks build and all will be ok. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Hi Karl, Thanks, I forget sometimes that the official build is there, will check all the time now, thanks for your reply rob
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Hi Rob. To be honest, although it might stand out like a sore thumb now, and YOU will always notice it I think once the black and yellow bands go on only an 'expert' would think to point it out. The only alternative might be to make up some 'extenders' for the steps, cut them off at right angles at the forward edge and increase their length to where they would have been and just have them slightly over long as a result. Like I said though, I don't think anybody else would really notice! Keep them coming! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Hi, it will be noticed by some hardened modellers as you say but won't be noticed by the vast majority of viewers... As you have used superglue I would leave well alone and class it a unique feature of your build..... She's looking great though...... Regards Alan
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Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Plymouth57 wrote:Hi Rob. To be honest, although it might stand out like a sore thumb now, and YOU will always notice it I think once the black and yellow bands go on only an 'expert' would think to point it out. The only alternative might be to make up some 'extenders' for the steps, cut them off at right angles at the forward edge and increase their length to where they would have been and just have them slightly over long as a result. Like I said though, I don't think anybody else would really notice! Keep them coming! Robin Thanks for the tip as you say might not be noticed, I might make it worse if i change it . as much as I concentrate I still make mistakes, cheers rob
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Gandale wrote:Hi, it will be noticed by some hardened modellers as you say but won't be noticed by the vast majority of viewers... As you have used superglue I would leave well alone and class it a unique feature of your build..... She's looking great though...... Regards Alan Thanks gandale, I think I will do that. Unique is right cheers rob
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Mistakes happen to the best of us. most people that view your model will be friends and family who probably will never have a clue. However I think this may cause you some issues with the chainwale rigging.
I know it is going to be a pain but really you could do with correcting this. “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.” -Mark Twain
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi Nice to see you back on this, I would never have spotted it if it was not mentioned. If you did want to correct it though you can use superglue release, I have used it a few times and its very good, a few drops into the joint and leave 5 mins then remove the part. The remains of the glue will then wipe off. Steve
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