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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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hi, this is part of the learning process,mistakes are made by us all. as the model is being painted I'd have no qualms in removing the offending step,after all you know they are wrong, I would go the steve-o way, but try the hot water method,using a small paint brush, brush on the hot water to the steps and use a stanley knife to get under the steps,it should come away without too much fuss,then if need be you can fill any grooves,then paint. it is really worth while having a go at correcting it. as I said earlier,you will have had valuable experience in repairs as well. you were very brave in showing your mistake, so well done for that. good luck and if you need any help just pm me. k. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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stevie_o wrote:Hi
Nice to see you back on this, I would never have spotted it if it was not mentioned. If you did want to correct it though you can use superglue release, I have used it a few times and its very good, a few drops into the joint and leave 5 mins then remove the part. The remains of the glue will then wipe off.
Steve thanks mate, was the stuff nail polish remover,I do have some of that when doing a computer motherboard a while ago. cheers
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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 As usual very positive advice  .I was wondering if was going to interfere with anything in the future, I forgot to mention that. I posted this to warn anybody new to watch every move you make, as you say we all make mistakes. Looks as if I will take them off after all  Thanks again
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi This is the one i have - http://www.ebay.co.uk/it...amp;hash=item2eb972bacd
Other household things may work too, maybe best to have a google Steve
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Thanks very much steve just bought some. great help
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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No probs, I keep it handy in case the kids ever get glued together, saves a trip to casualty I used it on the pinrail of the mizzen mast when I glued it to the wrong side! In your situation I would put a drop or two into the join, its very thin so will penetrate, leave for 5mins then Id use some flat nose pliers with no grip inside and wiggle it a bit and it will come off easily. The stuff turns the glue to a sort of jelly that can be wiped off with a cloth with some de-bonder on it. Steve
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Just an update,finally got the steps on the right side  ,little bit of filling,just a bit of trimming etc. Finish off the hull. I tried to paint the hull by hand and it looked awful so I air-sprayed it come out quite nice(pics) . If I had the time I would have copper tiled it. Cheers for all your input. sandnesspeats attached the following image(s):
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Nice finish on the hull, well done....
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 Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/03/2014 Posts: 15 Points: 35
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Love the colour on the hull, looks really nice!
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 Rank: Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,233 Points: 6,819 Location: East Sussex
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Hi sandnesspeats, What a great finish to your troublesome hull, I bet your pleased with it after all that work. Also it just shows a great spirit you have in your model making and willing to share your problems with this forum, keep sending in the pictures. Regards Trev. Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
OcCre- Santa-Maria (Kit).
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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tf64 wrote:Hi sandnesspeats,
What a great finish to your troublesome hull, I bet your pleased with it after all that work. Also it just shows a great spirit you have in your model making and willing to share your problems with this forum, keep sending in the pictures.
Regards
Trev. Thanks trev, I am not patience of people but I have learned you have to on this my first build. I just hope it helps others.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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thanks Gandale and nick. This forum is a great source of help.
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/08/2010 Posts: 2,771 Points: 8,344 Location: Brighton
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Hi sandnesspeats. Nice spray job on your hull. the steps look great. Ian Current builds.Hachettes build the bismark,HMS Victory, HMS Hood.
Finished Builds Corel HMS Victory cross section.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Thanks Ian,got there eventually.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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The hull looks very nice, look forward to seeing more Steve
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
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HI folks Just an update, Not sure if this looks right,the black banding looks a bit narrow. It was not easy I have to admit, That bleeding through the tape was a bit awkward as well  . Any advice as usual would be great. thanks sandnesspeats attached the following image(s):
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Hi,
I think I agree the black bands are a touch narrow. Also on one side the upper band does not seem in line with the one below. But its only minor issues you can correct.
As for the painting and masking process This is always more tricky when brush painting. A couple of tips from me are
1. Don’t overload you brush. If you are trying to spread lots of paint about your more likely to get seepage under the masking tape.
2. Use an appropriate brush a good wide flat brush for this job.
3. Use good quality masking tape. Cheaper tape is much more likely to let paint leach in.
4. Once you have applied the masking tape apply pressure along the masked edge to ensure there are no air bubbles that will allow the paint in. I use a soft pencil eraser for this.
5. Paint away from the masked edge. I start on the tape and paint towards the middle. If you paint towards the tape edge you are driving paint to collect at the tape edge which will increase the chances of seepage.
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2014 Posts: 185 Points: 545 Location: Essex
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I agree, Jase, but I think you forgot one point. Don't dilute the paint too much. I for one am keen to have that little bit extra dilute in there to give a nice and smooth brush coat but when you are painting along a masking edge you want the paint to be as thick as you can get away with. Adrie. 'Where to glue or where not to glue, that is the question'
Building: Hr. Ms. de Ruyter (card), Retourschip Batavia (Revell), HMS Surprise (De Agostini)
Built (and sunk): Too many to list
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi I think the upper 2 bands may be a touch narrow but it really isn't that noticeable. The black are supposed to be narrower than the yellow. I did mine by first painting all yellow, then masking for the black, then paint another coat of yellow (where the black is going to be) then when fully dry paint the black. The yellow layer will seal the masking tape so that no black can leak and will give a perfect line. Steve
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