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Dennis' D51 build Options
Andy
#121 Posted : 29 March 2014 14:40:42

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Dennis, would you mind explaining the process used to clean up excess solder after soldering? I have been practising soldering brass scraps, but often get some solder ooze out of joints, or get little splashes that need to be removed. Any tips are appreciated. Thank you.
Dennis
#122 Posted : 29 March 2014 15:38:41

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Hi Andy,
Excess solder can be removed with files, often needle files are sufficient. Also I use emery boards. These are sold usually in packs of 10 for essentially shaping 'nails' but prove very useful. You can easily cut off shaped pieces to suit the area being worked on. Obviously take care to not mark/damage the brass as you remove excess solder.
The other point is soldering with the pencil burner is a major step forward that is so much cleaner avoiding the excess problems. In my most recent work on the running boards. What you see is exactly what was achieved. I do intend to lightly blast them some time soon once the rivet head bolts are fitted, to simply clean up the areas that have been affected by the flux.
One word of warning, be careful of the solder dust when rubbing down, avoid breathing in, it can and does contain lead.
Hopefully that helps. Please come back if you need more information.
Regards
Dennis
Dennis
#123 Posted : 29 March 2014 20:04:46

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Hi Andy,
Another thought. I have also used miniature chisels since the solder is so soft relatively. An example would be Dockyard micro available from Tilgear. These can be used to simply cut away the excess.
I do think once you master the pencil burner method then the clean up will be minimal.
regards
Dennis
Andy
#124 Posted : 30 March 2014 14:11:03

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Thank you Dennis. Guess I need to invest in a new torch and some more practice pieces.
Dennis
#125 Posted : 30 March 2014 14:42:06

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Hi Andy,
I have soldered together O gauge models for quite a few years. However my soldering often needed cleaning up afterwards.Something I almost took for granted. However since adding the mini burner (Clarke) to the equipment soldering is so much easier and cleaner.
Rgds
Dennis
Dennis
#126 Posted : 03 April 2014 14:20:28

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Parts 11 - running boards

I mentioned previously that I intended using rivet headed brass screws in the 2mm screw holes on the running board. Andy (Court Orchard) had mentioned they were difficult to screw in and he was certainly correct. I found the threads on the screws quite tight. Therefore I ran a 2mm split die down all the rivet headed brass screws. Also I run a tap through the already threaded brackets. I found the screws then easier to screw in. Since I was going to solder the other end of the stews any problems with a loose fit didn't matter.
Whilst I was very pleased with the rivet headed screws I did find the heads rather large. Measured they were 3.9mm in diameter compared to the kits cross heads at 2.8mm. I therefore resized the heads, reshaping as required. I simply held the screws in a battery drill and used a file to resize/reshape the heads.
The process of rethreading, reshaping etc needed to be done in a certain order to allow the stews still to be screwed in place otherwise for instance the drill chuck would damage the brass threads.
Finally I soldered over the other end of the screws once they were filed flat. Where the running board brackets screw to the boiler I have used hexagon headed screws but may change these. I would prefer the rivet headed but access is difficult for final tightening.

regards
Dennis
Dennis attached the following image(s):
Parts 11 rivet detail web b.jpg
Parts 11 rivet detail web ajpg
Parts 11 rivet detail web.jpg
Parts 11 rivet detail web f.jpg
Parts 11 rivet detail web e.jpg
Parts 11 rivet detail web d.jpg
Dennis
#127 Posted : 20 April 2014 12:57:51

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Parts 12
I was somewhat slower assembling parts set 12. Now that the weather is improving other hobbies take precedence.
Parts 12 was essentially the left side running boards that could be soldered in a similar way to parts 11. I have continued to use the 2mm rivet headed brass screws also discussed in part 11.
The Zamac parts were first of all simply rinsed in paint thinners which quickly removed the 'brass' finish off the compressor body however it had little effect on the left reservoir finish which had to be lightly bead blasted to remove the surface 'paint'. I cleaned the Zamac parts of the surface finish to allow soldering. Also soldered in place was the Zamac oil pump box (see soldering, model making know how). Although the various parts were soldered in place I have also used the 2mm brass rivet head screws on the various parts. These then all blend in together with the running board screws/rivets.
Although I did intend to leave the boiler front section for now (smoke deflector brackets) really it now needs to be attached since it screws to the main boiler body and the loco front end attaches to the front of the running boards, so watch this space.
In preparation I have attached (soldered) the front boiler band in place ready to accept the front end.
regards
Dennis
Dennis attached the following image(s):
Parts 12 left rb etc web.jpg
Parts 12 left compressor web.JPG
Parts 12 air reservoir plus pipework web.jpg
Parts 12 oil pump box rivets web.jpg
Parts 12 final boiler band web.JPG
Kremmen
#128 Posted : 26 April 2014 07:35:36

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Stunning as usual! I really, really enjoy your pics - loving this build. :)
Dennis
#129 Posted : 26 April 2014 13:56:10

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Hi Martyn,

Thank you. Guess what another of my hobbies is?

Photography!

Regards
Dennis
Dennis
#130 Posted : 07 May 2014 18:58:09

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Joining smokebox to main boiler.

I had tried to leave this part until later. I was waiting for the smoke deflector brackets which would be the final parts to solder into the sides of the smokebox. However having completed the running boards I really needed to mount the front end in place.
Therefore I first sprayed the superheater element plate matt black. I masked off the lip to allow it to mounted to the boiler hinge joint with epoxy (plastic doesn't solder very well!). I sprayed inside the smokebox, over the spark arrestor and inside the chimney also matt black. Finally I also sprayed the inside of the smokebox door. Masking off as necessary. Once the paint had hardened the superheater element was glued in place.
Whilst the instructions use self tapping screws to hold the superheater element I would again be soldering up the holes on the boiler sides.
I soldered the final boiler band in place on the smokebox end of the main boiler. I arranged for 50% of the band to overlap. This helped when fixing the smokebox to the boiler.
I attached the front section once the smokebox was fixed in place. I used rivet head screws, 3 either side. I also soldered the joints underneath.
Although the pipe covers left and right, screw in place, I have soldered around these which adds stiffness to the assembly. Finally I fixed, again by soldering the steam pipe in place.
The matt black I used should be fine with the heat from the soldering.
regards
Dennis
Dennis attached the following image(s):
Joining tube ends.jpg
Joining boiler front.jpg
Joining front 1.jpg
Joining front 2.jpg
Joining front 1a.jpg
Joining front wide angle.jpg
stevie_o
#131 Posted : 07 May 2014 19:09:53

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Dennis
#132 Posted : 07 May 2014 19:12:22

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Hi Steve,

Thank you. The paint will be ex works when I can finally start.

regards

Dennis
Dennis
#133 Posted : 14 May 2014 12:43:16

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D51 Parts 13 cab soldering

I have updated the Model Making Know How - soldering, as I fitted the window frames and cab tops to the cab.

regards
Dennis
Dennis
#134 Posted : 14 May 2014 12:44:17

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D51 Parts 13 cab soldering

I have updated the Model Making Know How - soldering, as I fitted the window frames and cab tops to the cab.

regards
Dennis
Dennis
#135 Posted : 15 May 2014 10:25:08

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D51 parts 13
Firstly I removed the 'brass' paint from the water pump and right air reservoir. This would aid painting later. Also I used needle files to remove the casting marks especially from the water pump casting, the air reservoir only had slight marks on the two rounded ends.
I particularly liked the way the fire hydrant and the filter simply slipped on over the pipes. In practice the cutaway sides cannot be seen. As usual the water pump support was soldered in place and two rivet head screws installed and also soldered. The water pipe support, water pipe, fire hydrant and filter were all soldered in place.
Fitting the right reservoir and associated pipework was similar to the left side but somehow I made a better job this time round. Again the air reservoir and bracket were screwed to the right side running board using brass rivet headed screws. These again being fixed using tiny amounts of solder.
The cab I used in the 'Model Making Know How' entry under soldering. I will include two of those pictures again here. The delicate window frames and cab tops being held with toolmaker clamps whilst being soldered. The cab floor edging sections were held also in place with the clamps whilst being soldered. I have left off the 'stays' at present until I see how the rest of the floor is attached. Finally the firebox and grate was straightforward. I am intending to paint the inside (except the base of course) a mix of red/yellow etc that should reflect well and appear as a fire through the hatch.
The various soldered items and resultant flux marks will of course be removed before painting.
regards
Dennis
Dennis attached the following image(s):
Parts 13 rhs water pump web.jpg
Parts 13 rhs fore web.jpg
Parts 13 cab frames a web.jpg
Parts 13 cab frames c web.jpg
Parts 13 cab floor web.jpg
Parts 13 cab floor b web.jpg
jase
#136 Posted : 15 May 2014 13:20:42

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Loving your build and your diary is really good.

keep the pics commingCool

Jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
Dennis
#137 Posted : 15 May 2014 14:51:05

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Hi Jase,
Thank you.
I think it's important to provide some detail rather than simply let the pictures say it all.
Its certainly quite a lump now and the tender looks excellent from what I can see from Tomicks build.
Regards
Dennis
Dennis
#138 Posted : 21 June 2014 19:45:55

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D51 - part set 14

Since I am soldering most of this model and certainly the brass parts this latest set of parts required some help in the form of engineers clamps.
I have therefore put the detail on this with pictures in the 'Model Making Know How' soldering.
regards
Dennis
Dennis
#139 Posted : 03 July 2014 20:03:15

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D51 parts 53/54/55/56
Again a little late sorting the pictures out but here goes.
Sometimes going via the solder route means the process is so much harder especially since everything is drilled for the 2mm screws.
This was particularly true with the cab floor. I have used pieces of brass 2mm screws to fill the screw holes (if that make sense?). Each time tiny amounts of solder are applied to fix the screw in place and then the protruding surface carefully or otherwise sanded down. I am hopeful that tiny amounts of stopper between spraying the various coats will cover up most imperfections. All the stays in parts 53 were soldered in place together with the floor edging as I did with the upper floor. Before the two levels were soldered together.
All the various other components were held in place with stainless button head screws whilst they were soldered, the screws then removed. In some instances the kit screws have been replaced as a bonus.
Next was the cab which is at present very flimsy. The idea of drilling the two upper ports is currently on hold otherwise flimsy could be strong compared to the result.
The windows frames were held in place with engineers clamps, soldered and the sliding window then fitted (yes they do slide!). The use of the clamps you will find under Modelling Making Know How - Soldering.
Fitting the eves did prove interesting (read messy). One end was roughly soldered, the eves positioned and the other end then soldered. Finally the soldering at the first end was improved and the whole finished off.
At present I am undecided still regarding the angle stays to hold cab/floor etc. So these remain in the box. Possibly soldering may be sufficient. Finally the small parts on the boiler were soldered in place or left as appropriate.
regards
Dennis
Dennis attached the following image(s):
Parts 53 54 55 56 cab floor b.jpg
Parts 53 54 55 56 cab floor a.jpg
Parts 53 54 55 56 cab floor c.jpg
Parts 53 54 55 56 cab side b.jpg
Parts 53 54 55 56 cab side a.jpg
Parts 53 54 55 56 cab side c.jpg
arpurchase
#140 Posted : 03 July 2014 20:11:30

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BigGrin Looking good DennisCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

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