Hi Tomick,

Do you know the sizes of the screws used through out the build?

I want to try & source some in Brass.

Thanks


Wilfy

No probs Mr T, thanks for response.

I'll measure some up when I receive the parts.

Wilfy

Hi Wilfy,

As Mark says I have purchased ISO 2.0mm hex bolts (see my posting etc in my build diary) and in addition some 1.4mm ISO hex bolts from:
http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/20.html
You will find them listed under 'special nuts'. Suggest you email them first to check out they are the hex head bolts before ordering.
They are all 10mm or 12mm in length so will need cutting down. Suggest the cut end is gently cleaned/filed to ensure thread is clean.
The model does also use one or two 3mm ISO screws but these are usually hidden such as in the sand dome filler.
The hexagon head is quite deep/scale wise but is easily slimmed down if neccessary. The hexagon itself as you will see in my posting image is only 3mm across the flats which looks fine, normally this would be 4mm for that diameter of bolt. However the bolts because of the limited manufacture are not cheap.

Ordering from the US risks import and Parcel inspection charges that may dent any apparent savings.

regards

Dennis

Hi Andy,

Are they brass and what size are the hexagon heads across the flats?

I do use a supplier of stainless miniature ISO thread screws, they are excellent but the hex heads are a little large at 4mm.

They also do all lengths.

Regards

Dennis

Hi Andy,

Head size is important , so it looks reasonable scale wise and little different to the cross head screws supplied. I suppose material is unimportant if simply painting.

Thank you.

Regards

Dennis

Hi Andy,

Up to now lengths have varied from 2mm to 8mm in the ISO 2mm. Can you provide some idea of pricing?

regards

Dennis

Found a UK supplier providing M2 brass bolts at £3.90 for 20. This seems much better value.

www.model-dockyard.com

Their stock is a little light at the moment.

A couple of points .
If you are leaving it in brass finish you will find that black or steel bolts will make the model more attractive . Have a look at museum models and this trick is used quite frequently . You may possibly be a bit concerned about differential metal corrosion , but if the bolts are clean , it will not happen .
By the way , I am painting mine as I go along at salient points , I intend it to be a scale model . To this end I am adding bits that are not in the kit , such as the oil dashpots on the various connecting rods using 1.5mm brass rod set into holes drilled in the coupling rods .
A little artistic license such as pooling red paint into the coupling rod grooves makes a difference , commonly seen on locos dressed up for special occasions .
The rolling chassis looks very nice so far , the valve gear works just like it's supposed to . See "walschaerts valve gear animation"--just key that in on Image Search , there is a moving diagram on there somewhere .
Secondly , you may wish to make use of this chart , its use is obvious if you are seeking scale stuff .

http://www.allcap.co.uk/Conversi.htm

Mike

Glad you like it , but I would have thought that with you being a Brummie like me , yo wud ave knowed things like that .
Don't be fooled by the Uxbridge bit , I moved here following the money .
Silly thing to do , but there we are .
I have tried the BA/Metric equivalences and they seem interchangeable , slightly less free running on insertion in some cases , but no problem .
It is interesting to note that BA threads are in fact metric , made that way by engineers who didn't want to make things too obvious for amateurs .

With reference to obtaining screws , nuts , bolts , washers , I got packs of 100 screws for £9.60 plus VAT from-----

www.ekpsupplies.com

The chap is in Barnstaple , Devon and has a workshop , so will understand engineering I expect .
The dealings I have had with him so far have been very quick and efficient (on his part , not mine)

Mike