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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Very nice work, yes the brass tubes that are missing for the prop shaft are supposed to be in the missing parts pack.
Dave
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 Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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Missing parts kit received. Concerns the missing wood parts 3269L . Nothing else included. (no messing tubes, but in my build this does not really matter) Wieltje attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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Completing the hull planking. First layer, but remember there is no real second layer. Only a few thin planks adding -undrilled- portholes. The supplied planks are 2 mm thick which is a bit unusual for hull planking. They are rather easy to install and real strong. I do suspect sanding is going to be difficult though because they are rather rough. To get them smooth will take deep sanding (up to removing almost half a millimeter or more at places). Wieltje attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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This is looking fantastic Wieltje, really neat job - I can just tell this is going to look very nice when sanded down. Steve
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 Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/04/2014 Posts: 14 Points: 42
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Great work so far on the model!! It's perfect!
I've just post a question on faves dairy, perhaps you could also help. Here's what I asked,
I'm not sure if you have realized this yet, but I've just painted the forward walls on B deck (parts 78 77 & 76) I figured I would place the window frames on the these parts before fixing them into place. There are 14 frames needed in total for these parts. I've searched through the instructions and have come up with nothing in regards to what etch numbers these particular frames are!? In figure 53 of the instructions, these frames (and a few doors) magically just appear on the drawing, with no part numbers.. I've looked at the photo etch sheet for frames that look like the right fit but those parts are used else where.. Am I missing something here!?
It wouldn't surprise me with this kit, I'm sorry to say but for the high price tag, the instructions are poor and hardly detailed (not one written explanation or colour drawing in the whole thing) and there are missing parts of the kit which we have all had to request from billings. I'm thinking these frames may be another missing part :(
Let me know if you can work it out!
Cheers mate
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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Jen1988 wrote:Great work so far on the model!! It's perfect!
I've just post a question on faves dairy, perhaps you could also help. Here's what I asked,
I'm not sure if you have realized this yet, but I've just painted the forward walls on B deck (parts 78 77 & 76) I figured I would place the window frames on the these parts before fixing them into place. There are 14 frames needed in total for these parts. I've searched through the instructions and have come up with nothing in regards to what etch numbers these particular frames are!? In figure 53 of the instructions, these frames (and a few doors) magically just appear on the drawing, with no part numbers.. I've looked at the photo etch sheet for frames that look like the right fit but those parts are used else where.. Am I missing something here!?
It wouldn't surprise me with this kit, I'm sorry to say but for the high price tag, the instructions are poor and hardly detailed (not one written explanation or colour drawing in the whole thing) and there are missing parts of the kit which we have all had to request from billings. I'm thinking these frames may be another missing part :(
Let me know if you can work it out!
Cheers mate
Please look at fig. 45. There we see similar windows on another deck. I have a strong suspicion the frames F988/25 are the ones we were looking for. On the sheet you'll find them on the far right. Think there 's 60 of them. I didn't count if that is enough but I would guess it is. Indeed, instructions are rather poor. I've seen better (but also worse) . Hope this helps. Wieltje (my real first name is Willy)
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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Sanding, sanding, sanding... As you will see in the pictures, even after a first deep sanding she is still far from smooth. Decided to use a filler (because this ship will be painted that's not really a problem) and opted for a very dark one. May seem unlogic but this permits me to see exactly how far I have to sand it down afterwards. Pictures will make clear what I mean.  Wieltje attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,520 Points: 24,651 Location: East midlands
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WTG,  Looks great. One question: If you have to turn this monster over, how many people does it take? Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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Time for the 'second planking layer' . Indeed, not complete, but looking at original pictures of Titanic you may have noticed that the real ship also has this somewhat strange hull structure. And then... there's the problem I noticed from the moment I opened the building box. Most portholes are not even intended to be drilled. Don't even think about mounting lights inside or so. And NO frames ! For a static model I needed and found a solution. You will see in the pictures that I purchased some ferrules (for electric wires) and adapted them to become frames. I hope the pictures show how exactly I managed that. The result is pretty pleasing. Think this will do very nicely indeed once the ship is painted . Wieltje attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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delboy271155 wrote:WTG, Looks great. One question: If you have to turn this monster over, how many people does it take? Regards delboy271155 (Derek) O yeah, turning her over is not easy at all. Risky too, I've broken pieces on several occasions allready. My personal situation - I'm a wheel chair user - makes it even more difficult. So to answer the question... if you have someone in the neighbourhood ... it takes two to turn her over safely 
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Beautiful finish on that hull Wieltje, you are doing a fantastic job on this. Steve
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 Rank: Elite  Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Amazing stuff Weiltje  your doing a brilliant job on the portholes and must have some patience there! Great stuff Spencer
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Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/04/2014 Posts: 14 Points: 42
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Fantastic work! And great Indra re the port holes!! Your photos (especially during the planking) are better guidance than the instructions!
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/04/2014 Posts: 10 Points: 30 Location: Padova
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Hi Wieltje, your hull is fantastic, but i don't know why you decided to make a external rim to portholes: Titanic had not.... 
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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[quote=bianco64squalo]Hi Wieltje,
your hull is fantastic, but i don't know why you decided to make a external rim to portholes: Titanic had not....
He, this is a bit of a surprise to me. Never saw a picture this detailed of Titanic's hull. Looking at the hull with all the
closed portholes (imagin them painted) is what made me think I needed frames to give it better looks. Goodness, bit unsure
now. Removing the rims is not too difficult yet, but then again, they really do look pretty on the ship...
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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Since I would like this model to be a Titanic-model and not a "Wieltjes-model" I will indeed remove the biggest frames in the portholes. They are too obvious. The smaller ones will be sanded down to make them barely visible but they still provide a good finish to the smaller portholes. Unfortunately the bigger windows and portholes were mounted with acetatefilms on the inside. Painting them is IMPOSSIBLE this way. Wieltje attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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For readers that did NOT yet mount the prefabricated hullparts ( especially 123/124) take notice that you can't paint the windows/portholes if you first mount the acetate. Painting the inside frame without touching the film would demand incredible precision. I have decided to remove these parts from the ship. Then I remove the acetate. Now painting of the inside edge in windows/portholes becomes possible. Only after finishing that paintjob I'll put acetate or other films back in place.Wieltje attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/05/2014 Posts: 912 Points: 2,773 Location: East Sussex UK
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this looks huge, how long is this model ? Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. Building: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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Gibbo wrote:this looks huge, how long is this model ? She's about 6 feet long (in metric: 185 cm). A bit difficult to handle and a bit of a problem to find a good place to show the ship. :-)
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Joined: 14/04/2014 Posts: 47 Points: 144
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Time for an update on this build.
First a few pictures off the (partial) second planking layer and the construction of the rudder.
Wieltje attached the following image(s):
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