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A Tribute to HMS Illustrious - Some Information required please. Options
stevie_o
#1 Posted : 12 May 2014 12:08:09

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Hi EveryoneBigGrin

An introduction to my next big plastic kit build - Airfix 1/350 HMS Illustrious. The kit will be built with extra airwing kits and also a full WEM etch upgrade. This will be a tribute build to the ship as she is being retired shortly after 32 years of service.
A build diary will follow in the near future when I have a bit of an idea of what I'm going to include.



About the ship:
HMS Illustrious is an Invincible class aircraft carrier and was launched back in 1978, although only bought into service in 1982 in a hurry to get her to the Falklands to join here sister ship HMS Invincible.
Today, "Lusty" in a changed role of Helicopter and commando carrier, can carry 22 helicopters made up of a combination of Merlin, Lynx, Sea King and also Chinooks and Apache's depending on operations. She also used to carry up to 22 Sea Harriers before their retirement in 2005.



The real reason for this post is to gather the thoughts of forum members and to request any info and photo you may have of Lusty.

My build will be a waterline model in a resin sea base and will be lit up with fibre optics / leds etc.

What I need is any information any members here have of where the lights would have been placed:

I need to know the placement or configuration of the landing deck lights, I know it is not a conventional runway but Im sure there must be border lights (blue?), possibly red end lights and maybe white strip lights?
I also need to know where the green / red nav lights are and if any other lights can be included on the island structure maybe?

So, I'm looking for ideas and suggestions, any Ex-RN members? Do you have some pics of her at night when in port maybe? There is a real shortage of night photos so I have no clue as to where I place the fibres.

The kit also has some good internal hangar deck detail so this will also be lit up - any idea what colour light would be there?
Also, if you have any good tips on using fibre optics in a build let me know.

Feel free to post any info and any Photos that you own, it will all be useful to my new build, Thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers
Steve
jase
#2 Posted : 12 May 2014 13:36:39

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Hi Steve,

this might me helpfull as a starting place? i have used both sits in the past and both are good. My agamemnon build is based on the blueprint plans.

http://jecobinplans.com/...6r8gqh3je2ue82h53kjtss0

http://www.the-blueprint...ew/hms_illustrious_r06_(aircraft_carrier)/
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stevie_o
#3 Posted : 12 May 2014 13:45:42

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Thankyou Jase,
The second pic in your links is good but I just wish it would show the deck lights too, to further explain I want to recess the ends of the fibre optics into the deck through holes drilled to the exact diameter of the fibre, poss 0.75, or 1mm.
I have been searching for an overhead photo in low light but no luckMad
Steve
Tomick
#4 Posted : 12 May 2014 15:36:33

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Looks an exciting project Steve Cool
swordfish fairey
#5 Posted : 12 May 2014 18:58:26

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Just to give you some idea what they looked like from above, although this is Invincible a few years ago (a lot actually) and there are a few differences........






The hanger lighting was/is normal white light unless the lifts are down and it turns to red as that is not visible at night..

I only ever did Illustrious for 2 weeks coming back from Norway in 84, but did 8 years on the "Ark" in various drafts, but if I can help in any way, don't hesitate.

I do have pictures of her "Razzing" with us on the RFA Resource in 83 somewhere, I will search them out for you............Tony
stevie_o
#6 Posted : 12 May 2014 19:16:25

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Thanks for the info Tony and a great pic, firstly I intend to have one lift down so red light is is on the hangar deck then - that will add some colour!BigGrin

I dont suppose you can recall any recessed deck lighting marking the landing areas etc, any marker lights at the end of the ski slope?...Am I right in thinking that you took that pic yourself?

I may require your services during my build if you dont mind, Im interested in the pre-2005 era as I want to model the harriers on deck.
Thanks so much for looking in, anything else you want to post please fire awayBigGrin
Steve
arpurchase
#7 Posted : 12 May 2014 22:54:06

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BigGrin Nice looking project SteveCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

stevie_o
#8 Posted : 13 May 2014 10:47:14

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Thankyou Andy,

In addition to the above Lighting info request, I need some ideas on another part of the build.
The instructions or paint guide for this build have you paint the harrier canopy glass black, does anyone know of a better way of doing this? Not sure if they can be replaced with some kind of transparency?
Steve
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#9 Posted : 13 May 2014 11:19:21

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Hi Steve,

in the past I used either a gloss silver paint for the glass and a toothpick with camouflage colour for the larger glass frames or a gloss midnight blue for the glass without the frames being painted.

This worked well on 1:700, so in 1:350 should be looking better than the perscribed gloss black. I used the silver if I imagined the weather to be sunny, to mimick the glare off the glass.

Adrie.
'Where to glue or where not to glue, that is the question'

Building: Hr. Ms. de Ruyter (card), Retourschip Batavia (Revell), HMS Surprise (De Agostini)
Built (and sunk): Too many to list
jase
#10 Posted : 13 May 2014 13:46:29

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stevie_o wrote:
Thankyou Andy,

In addition to the above Lighting info request, I need some ideas on another part of the build.
The instructions or paint guide for this build have you paint the harrier canopy glass black, does anyone know of a better way of doing this? Not sure if they can be replaced with some kind of transparency?
Steve



I take it that the canopy is molded onto the fusalge and is in grey plastic?

if that is the case i would be doing the cockpit two tone. the fixed forward canopy a dark grey hi gloss finish to reflect the instromunts in the front. and a pale grey or blue gray for the rear section, again gih gloss. have a play see what works for you.

pick below shows you my point on the two tone canapy (you have to scroll down a bit!)

http://www.aviation-news..._aircraft_industry.html

You could replace with clear resin. make a mould from the canopy. never done it myself but in thery quite easy.LOL Glare
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stevie_o
#11 Posted : 13 May 2014 14:15:56

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Thankyou Adrie, Jase

Adrie, I think you are right about the silver maybe looking like a bright day, nice idea - however, I am going for a low light look as I will use lighting and intend on a grey sea too. Like the idea of the gloss midnite blue as wellBigGrin
Jase, Yes, canopies molded in grey. The pic certainly does look two-tone dosent it, Id have to try it and see how it actually looks on the plane though.
The resin interests me as Im sure I have seen someone do this before, especially as the harrier canopy is so dominant, makes it worth doing. I think I remember once the ships planes were often made of clear plastic and you then just painted everything except the canopy?

I think it all depends on the viewing angle, on the photos looking directly down the canopies look black, but at deck angle they are various shades or clear.
Steve
GluedFingers
#12 Posted : 13 May 2014 14:40:07

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Alternatively, Steve, you could use these babies.

Harrier model

They are molded in clear plastic, made by Bronco and do £4.99 per four.

I found that Hannants lists them but are out of stock there.

Adrie.
'Where to glue or where not to glue, that is the question'

Building: Hr. Ms. de Ruyter (card), Retourschip Batavia (Revell), HMS Surprise (De Agostini)
Built (and sunk): Too many to list
Plymouth57
#13 Posted : 13 May 2014 14:43:57

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Hi Stevie.

Here's a couple of links you might find useful!

http://www.jeffhead.com/modelbuilds/uk-r06.htm

www.flickr.com/photos/defenceimages/6195134637/

One trick you could try with the Harriers is to get some thin clear acetate and cut it into a small square about two inches in size. Sandwich that between two cut outs of either wood or tin for example then gently heat the acetate with either a gas or electric hob until it goes floppy. When it reaches that stage, quickly pull the floppy acetate down over one of the kit Harriers and hold it there for ten seconds. If all goes well you'll have a transparent copy of the top half of the Harrier which you can (very carefully) trim off the cockpit canopy, remove the solid canopy from the original and replace with the new clear one.
I've used this way back in the past, it does work but I always had a lot of wastage with maybe one good one for each three or four attempts! It's a sort of poor man's vac-forming without the vac!Blink

Best of luck anyway!

(PS, Ive never seen any deck lights lit up on the Invincibles either! They were never designed for the 'fast jets' so maybe they weren't needed. The night time shots during the Falklands just showed the whole flight deck illuminated by flood lights on the side of the island)

Robin
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
stevie_o
#14 Posted : 13 May 2014 16:56:09

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Adrie, that's what I was thinking about as I did have the transparent planes in a kit once, didnt know they did a harrier though but looking hard to find in UK.

Robin,
I have the Jeff head build bookmarked and am not able to look at the flickr pics until I have signed up.
The process you suggest on doing the canopies is something I can imagine you doing, looking at your WW1 dio I know the patience you must haveLOL

BUT, It does give me another idea - perhaps I can warm some acetate with a heatgun and let it melt and "flop" over a canopy that has been cut from a plane, perhaps mounted on a piece of wire, then trim and tidy up. It may all end as being too much trouble though but nice to have choicesBigGrin
Steve
Plymouth57
#15 Posted : 13 May 2014 17:21:47

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Hi Stevie.

That's a damed good idea regarding the canopies, it would be much easier than doing the whole airframe. I think many years ago I read of making a cheap vac form machine from a biscuit tin and a vaccuum cleaner!Blink Possibly in the old Airfix magazines?. A heat gun would be perfect (and much more directional too, (you should have heard that gas hob splutter when I tried it upside down!!LOL )
Just thought, another possibility might be to carve/sand cockpits from a length of clear sprue off another kit. I know there are plastic 'polishing' products available out there, but I must admit that was a task even my patience wouldn't stretch to!

Looking forward to watching this one!

Robin
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
stevie_o
#16 Posted : 15 May 2014 20:36:57

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Thanks for the input Robin, all ideas considered when the time comesBigGrin (and then prob just end up being lazy and painting them)LOL

Thought Id put up some content shots to show the size compared to Vic, and the size of the sprues etc. The ruler is 12 inches. Some pics also of the 2 different harriers showing the size also.
One of the pics also shows the tail rotor for one of the helo's - looks like its on that sprue nice and safe, no danger of it falling outLaugh

It's a very nice looking kit though, really well moulded and excellent instructions and decals - there is even a full colour book on the real Lusty. The box is also very nice and is hinged opening and double printed top and bottom with some good reference pics.

My etch kits for the main model and airwing still havent arrived as there is a stock problem so I cant start this one yet anywaySad

Cheers
Steve
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stevie_o
#17 Posted : 18 May 2014 18:42:03

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After a little bit of a search I have found out that there are in fact lights along the center of the runway distance markers (on the white lines), they appear to be yellow dots in pairs as can be seen from the pics below. Just noticed on my kit too that these are marked on there as tiny dots which will help a huge amount in getting the holes in the right locations.
Anyone with any experience in fibre optics please feel free to post here, I need to know the best glue to fit the fibre into the drilled holes? , how many fibres reccomended per led etc?

Thanks again in advance,
Steve

stevie_o attached the following image(s):
6195651048_2e9b53a576_z.jpg
FlightDeck1_web-1.jpg
Plymouth57
#18 Posted : 18 May 2014 21:41:28

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So she HAS got lights on the deck!Blink

As far as the number of fibres goes, the best way to be certain is to fit a short, tight fitting tube over the end of the LED, metal or plastic (but ally or brass is probably best). As many fibres as will fit down that tube will give you the best light as most of the light output from the LED is directional, ie straight down the lens, there is some sideways leakage but it tends to be dimmer.

Best of Luck!Cool

Robin
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Tomick
#19 Posted : 18 May 2014 23:12:58

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You might be able to gleam some lighting ideas from Dom's superb build of the cruise ship Aida..

http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=6682
stevie_o
#20 Posted : 19 May 2014 00:10:29

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Thanks Robin, I think I may use heatshrink around leds and stuff the fibres into that.
@Tom - Just checked out Dom's build again now, excellent stuffBigGrin. Dom used short lengths of fibre with no direct contact to the leds, I believe this was to have a more random brightness along the port holes. I need the deck lights to be all the same brightness so I may have to have them as long fibres direct to the Leds.
I will take another look at the underside of the deck tomorrow and start to make a routing plan.
Cheers
Steve



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