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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/10/2012 Posts: 68 Points: 114 Location: suffolk
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hi y'all having a look through mag 78.I have a question for Tomick or anyone who might know, is it necessary to tapper the whole lower mast as about 7cm are lost below deck and so it will not be a snug fit if tapered all the way down? I'm off now to make myself a makeshift lathe out of stickey back tape and some toilet roll tubes!  . jethro
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/01/2013 Posts: 157 Points: 462 Location: Yorkshire
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Hi Jethro I'm not making the SOS,but have made a few ships of the line before. The tapering of the mast is just down to deck level,then it's parellel from deck level down to the keel,so you get a good tight fit in the holes in the decks for the mast. Just make sure you get the rake of the mast correct if any.Hope that helps. Also before I got a mini wood working lathe,I used to put whatever I was tapering into a drill,set it at its slowest speed,then ran sandpaper up and down it while spinning to get the taper required,stopping to measure it regulary.It worked for me anyway Jon
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/10/2012 Posts: 68 Points: 114 Location: suffolk
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well thanks spikee
I can now carry on. Ive got a drill but its only has one speed so Ill be very gentle, it does seem more practicle than doing it staticly
most appreciated
Jethro
ps why couldn't they say that in the magazine
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/01/2013 Posts: 157 Points: 462 Location: Yorkshire
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jethro wrote:well thanks spikee
I can now carry on. Ive got a drill but its only has one speed so Ill be very gentle, it does seem more practicle than doing it staticly
most appreciated
Jethro
ps why couldn't they say that in the magazine No problem.Just remember to cup gently the sandpaper around the dowel,support it with your fingers from underneath while your thumb gently presses the sandpaper onto the dowel and just slide it up and down the dowel as required. Also If you can clamp your drill to something to hold it secure (like in a vice or something) its much safer and easier. As you said,just be gentle and you wont run the risk of snapping the dowel (or worse!  ).Ive used it to do masts and spars (when youve tapered one side turn it around and do the other side) for years,till I could afford the proper thing. They probably dont say to do it this way for obvious 'dont sue us when your drill slips and drills into your more softer regions by accident' reasons. BTW I think you can get drill stands that turn an ordinary drill into a lathe...might be worth looking into? Jon
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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hi jethro,the instruction in issue78 clearly states that the mast is 10mm. at the base and 8mm at the top,the dowel supplied is thicker than 10mm, it needs tapering ALL the way down to those measurements, page13, pic25. clearly show this. if you are worried about anything,just contact me. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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