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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Pack 23 contains Stages 89 - 92
Stage 89 - Contains the effects generator and screws.
Turn the display base over and place the effects generator onto the underside of top plate A, aligning the holes in the corners of the generator and top plate. Then tighten a self-tapping screw into each of the four holes, securing the generator to the top plate.
Plug the switchboard plug into the large socket at the side of the generator. Then plug the plug of the speaker cable into the socket marked ‘SPEAKER’.
Retrieve the motor and light cables set aside from Stage 88.
Insert the white plug of the motor cable into the ‘MOTOR’ socket on the generator.
Insert the white plug of light cable into the ‘LIGHT’ socket.
The four sockets in the generator should now all be taken up by their corresponding cables (Speaker, Light, Battery, Motor).
Pass the free ends of the cables through the hole in the frame joint and push the three socket ends through the hole in top plate B.
Fit six 'D' size (LR20) batteries into the battery box.
At this point, with the parts you have installed, you should be able to test the electronic sounds.
Turn on the ‘MAIN’ switch to begin testing.
Flick the ‘SOUND’ switch down to test the running sound, then, press the ‘WHISTLE’ switch down to test the whistle, (the whistle switch is spring loaded and will automatically return to its off position when not pressed down).
This completes the electronic assembly of the display base.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 90 - Contains assorted ballast pieces and sleepers.
Place the first piece of ballast B in the top plate, at the opposite end to the switchboard, The fit four pieces of ballast A side by side next to the ballast B.
Then place the first ballast E up against the last of the ballast A pieces and place ballast C up against the ballast E.
Place the second ballast E and add a further three Ballast A pieces.
Now place the two ballast D pieces either side of the hole from which the wires are projecting, then place a ballast A piece after the two D pieces.
Add another five ballast A pieces and finally the remaining ballast B piece.
The sleepers fit into the gaps between the ballast pieces. The holes should face upwards. Fit the sleepers into the gaps between ballast pieces, (the larger gaps in the ballast are where the rollers will fit later on).
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 91 - Contains rails A & B and baseplates.
The baseplates fit into the sets of holes in the sleepers. Press a baseplate into each pair of the sleeper holes.
Pass the B rails through the chairs of the baseplates from the end.
Slide the first A rail through the chairs of the sleepers positioned after the spaces for the rollers. Then pass the second A rail through the chairs adjacent to the first.
Pass the third and fourth A rails through the chairs from the other end of the base, then push the ends of the A rails up against each other.
This completes the fitting of the rails.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 92 - Contains L-shaped stays, shafts, brass rods, roller bearings, wheel chocks A/B, washers and nuts.
Lay the parts out for each roller set as shown.
Place the bearing and then a washer onto the end of the shaft, then isert the end of the shaft into the hole at one end of the L-shaped stay.
Tighten the nut onto the end of the shaft (esuring that the washer remains located areound the shaft, then repeat this process to fit a second shaft, bearing and washer into the second hole of the stay.
Place a bearing over the end of each shaft, then place a washer onto each shaft, up against the bearing. Place a stay over the ends of the shafts, and tighten a nut onto the end of each shaft.
Repeat the roller assembly proces to make four roller sets, then place a roller set into each of the remaining large gaps in the middle of the display base.
Take the brass rods and chocks. Identify the A and B chocks, then insert one of the brass rods into the hole in a wheel chock A and fit a chock B onto the opposite end of the rod.
Place the chock assembly over the rails, as shown in the instructions, and adjust the position of the brass rod until both chocks are properly aligned with the rails. Then use liquid adhesive to fix the chocks to the rod.
Repeat this process to assemble the second pair of chocks, then carefully store them for later use.
The end of this stage has information in the instructions about the paint plan for the model. Note that a clear primer should be used if you have opted for the 'brass' finish.
Stages 93-96 include information about the preparation of the model prior to painting.
Stage 94 includes information about the dis-asssembly process to assist painting.
Stage 95 includes information about masking.
Stage 96 includes information about degreasing and applying primer to your model.
Stages 97, 98 & 99 includes information about painting, detailing and weathering your the model.
Stage 100 is the fitting of the final detail parts - Number plates × 3, Lamps × 4, Commemorative plate, Tag holders × 4, Maker’s plates × 2, District tags × 2, Turbine generator, Tank, Tender handrails × 2, and information about making the final adjustments.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Pack 24 contains Stages 93 - 96
Stage 93 - Contains Ash box parts, boiler handrails A/B and screws.
Identify the ash box parts.
Place ash box C on the outside of the tabs of ash box A, aligning the screw holes of both. Tighten a 2x3mm screw into each of the seven holes along the edge of ash box C.
Fit ash box B onto the other side of ash box C (ensuring that the tab is on the outside of ash box C), then tighten a 2x3mm screw into the eight holes.
Place ash box D onto the rest of the ash box assembly, and tighten a 2x3mm screw into each of the six holes. Then tighten 2x3mm screws into the six holes on the other side of ash box D.
Fitting the ash box:
Turn the engine underframe over and remove the trailing truck.
Insert the ash box into the area at the back of the underframe, as shown inthe instructions. Then tighten 2x5mm screws into the four holes in the underside.
Place ash box plate E at the back of the ash box, aligning the holes, then tighten 2x5mm screws into the two holes at the end of ash box plate E.
Turn the underframe over again and tighten a 2x3mm screw into each of the holes at the other end of ash box plate E.
Fitting the boiler handrails:
Pass a handrail B through the four handrail brackets on the left side of the boiler, nearest the cab. Push the hand rail through until it is resting inside the first bracket. Then pass a handrail A through the four brackets nearest the front, so that the joint of both lies within the bracket. Then apply liquid adhesive to the bracket where the handrails meet.
Note that there is an intended overhang of handrail at either end of the handrail full length, which is longer at the smokebox end than it is at the cab end.
Repeat to fit the handrails on the right side of the boiler.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 94 - Contains a rubber washer, motor screw, motor, screws and the motor mount plate.
Place the rubber washer over the hole in the diecast motor mount part of the underframe. Then place the motor mount over the same hole, on top
of the rubber washer, and place the motor screw into the hole in the motor mount. Tighten the screw into the hole, through the mount, washer and underframe. Make sure the motor mount is set parallel with the sides of the underframe.
Place the motor onto the motor mount, aligning the holes of both, then tighten two 3x5mm screws into the two holes in the mount, securing the motor in place.
You can now test your motor.
With batteries in the battery box, connect the motor cable protruding from the hole in the display base to the cable plug attached to the motor.
Turn on the MAIN switch, then turn on the RUN switch to test that the shaft of the motor rotates.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 95 - Contains a worm gear, gearbox halves and sump, drive shaft, bushes, silicone joint tube and screws.
Assembling the gearbox:
Place a bush onto the wide end of the shaft, then the worm gear, and the second bush in the orientations shown.
Place the worm gear and bushes into the semicylindrical part of gearbox B, then place gearbox A onto gearbox B, aligning the screw holes of both, and tighten 2x10mm screws into the three holes in the side of gearbox A.
Installing the gearbox:
Place the gear assembly over the toothed wheel in the underframe. Holding the gear assembly in place, turn the underframe over and place gearbox C over the underside of the gear upon the axle, then tighten 2x5mm screws into the four of the gearbox sump.
Fitting the silicone joint tube:
Turn the underframe back over and place the silicone tube over the end of the shaft, and place the other end of the tube over the shaft projecting from the motor. The tube should now appear as shown in the inset photo of the instructions, if positioned correctly.
Place a set screw into the hole in the worm gear, then fully tighten the set screw using a small scredriver.
Testing the gears and locomotion:
Place the chassis/ main wheels onto the rollers on the display base. Then flip the MAIN and RUN switches to test that the gear and wheels rotate without binding. If they don't, turn the switches off and check the positions of the gears, silicone tube, motor and for any obstructton within the drive wheel sets.
At this point you can also test the firebox lamp and smokebox lamp:
Plug the black plug of the firebox into the black socket protruding through the display base, also plug the white plug of the smoke box lamp into the white socket.
Turn on the MAIN switch and flick the CAB switch, which should provide a slow red pulsating glow inside the firebox and light the lamp of the smoke box.
Disassembly of your model:
In order to get an even coverage of your chosen finish, it’s best to disassemble some of the model to make it easier to paint. Information is provided in the instructions shows how to remove the relevant parts.
The main components that should be removed are the deflectors, cab and firebox. While you don’t need to dismantle the cab, you do need to remove it from the rest of the model, remove the roof and firebox (prevent paint ingress into the firebox).
If you have chosen a painted finish, you should already have painted the backhead. If you haven’t, it is best to paint it when the cab has been removed. When disassembling the parts, it is also a good idea to check all the joins between them for any weakness or damage.
The instructions also show how to clean away any excess glue, and the last chance to reinforce any glued parts. If you find instant adhesive isn’t strong enough, replace or reinforce it with epoxy adhesive. In addition to this, degreasing and masking information is also provided.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 96 - Contains brake braces A/B, brake beams A/B/C, Screws, Brake shoes and brake shoe levers.
Assembling the brake shoes:
Place a brake shoe lever into a brake shoe, aligning the holes of both, then tighten a 2x4mm screw into the hole.
Create three more brake shoe assemblies in this way (right brake shoes A). Then place a lever into a brake shoe and tighten a screw into the hole from the other side of the shoe, to create the four reversed shoes (left brake shoes B).
To provide easier access in locating the brake screws, turn the wheels by rotating the motor shaft so that the coupling rods are at the top of the wheel sets.
Insert the end of the lever of a brake shoe B into the first brake support at the front left side of the underframe, align the holes then tighten a 2x2mm screw into the hole in the brake support.
Screw the second brake shoe B to the underframe, in front of the second wheel. Then Screw brake shoes B to the underframe in front of the third and fourth wheel sets.
Install the four brake shoes A in front of the four wheels on the right side of the underframe.
Assembling the brake beams:
Lay out the brake beams A/B and A/B/C braces on your work surface as shown.
Half-tighten a 2x3mm screw into each of the four holes to create brake assembly A. Then similarly, create brake assembly B.
Fitting the brake assemblies:
Turn the underframe over, and insert the ends of brake beam A into the holes on the inside of the brake shoes in front of the first wheels. Then insert the ends of brake beam C into the holes in the shoes of the second wheelset. Now apply liquid adhesive to the four ends.
Insert the ends of the beams of assembly B into the shoes of the third and fourth wheel sets, and apply adhesive to the four ends of brake assembly B.
Now fully tighten the screws of both brake assemblies.
Information about degreasing and applying primer to the engine/tender body is provided in the instructions at this point.
In the following Stages, painting information is provide in the instructions, and we will be adding the couplings, reverse bar, tender coal, and adding the final details to complete the D51.
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