Hi all,

so now we have a model that we want to build and we have all the tools to do it with.

Now what?

The first thing to do is to: RTFI!
The second thing to do is to: RTFIA, and finally
the third thing to do is to: RTFIAAA!

Send me a PM if you struggle with the used terms, I don't want to swear in public!

But seriously, you start with thoroughly reading through the whole of the instructions and looking at every assembly drawing that you have been provided with.

There is a good chance that this is the first hurdle as the instructions might not have been penned down in your language. In that case use an online site to assist with translating, the best one I have found so far is Google translate. Translating website This site works even with complete sentences or even whole websites, if you put the URL in the left window!

I tend to have a wordpad doc open when I type (or copy) the lines to be translated and then copy them to the wordpad doc. The translation won't be 100% but should be enough to give you the general gist. But translate all of it before you make the first cut.

Once you can 'read' it, read through it and then read it again with more attention for the begin of the build. Also take note of any comments that precede the actual building instructions as they might have relevance to the work itself.

Once you understand which parts you have to work with, it is time to find them on the part sheets and don't stop looking through the sheets until you have carefully examined them all. Sometimes there are multiple parts that are linked together and they have indications like a,b,1,L after the part number. When you look for parts 1, you have to keep looking until you have found all linked parts, like 1a, 1aL or 1bPi.

Then when you are sure to have located them all, read the instructions again with the parts in your hand and compare it with the drawings to make sure you understand what it is they want you to do with them.

It is at this time that you are ready to remove the staples (if your model comes in a bookform) and separate the sheets. Now you can cut the middle bend line of the sheets to separate them. You should do it at this time, rather than earlier because the sheets are protected from damage and bending when still in bookform (up to a point).

What you exactly have to do will depend on the model. If your model requires to be strengthened with another sheet of cardboard you should do it now, rather than later, even when (some of) the parts that need to be strenghtened aren't required at the moment. It will probably take some time to find all the parts that need to be thickened to that specific thickness and then you have to determine how best to place the seperated parts onto the sheet (or sheets) of strengthening card. But take care to give each part sufficient space on the sheet so that you have a few mm left around each part for cutting.

The thickening step is relatively simple. Simply spray the thickening sheet with display mount (make sure it is the permanent kind!) let it dry for half a minute and then start placing the separate parts onto it. After you placed all of the parts onto that sheet, cover it with clingfilm and place a large weight on top of it to keep it flat when the glue dries up. Be aware that the glue will remain sticky for a long time, hence the clingfilm.

Assuming that there are no more parts to strengthen/thicken it is time to start cutting.

Make sure that you have full freedom of movement of the card on the table. You cut best by placing the wrist on the table and holding the knife as a pen and the elbow should be on the same level as the wrist. That gives you a stable position to cut. It is best to keep that position while you move the card when you cut. Keep the blade as still as you can, only moving it in the direction of the wrist/elbow axis.

Use the flexibility in your wrist to cut curves.

Very small parts can not be cut that way. The best way to cut those is by so-called stabbing. To stab, insert the point of the knife into the card and push it through vertically, lift the blade, turn the piece and pierce the card again. Continue doing this until the part falls out of the surrounding card automatically. Never force the part out!

Note that you can't stab-cut thick card. The blade point probably will break during the first stab-cut. If you need to cut a small round part that is thick as well, it is best to cut away the surrounding card in slithers.

What we will and can do with the cut parts we will discuss in the next issue. I feel we have done enough today!

So until laterzz!

Adrie.