|
|
|
|
Kit looks good Steve I quite fancy this one at some point with the WEM etch it should be stunning and your intent to light will just raise it another lever. With all the excellent builds the ModelSpace members have built over the years I recon we could win some serous awards at a model show  “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
|
|
|
 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Thanks Jase, I am after a subtle effect with the lights, so I may play with the voltage a little to tone the brightness down if needed - the 12v leds work fine from 5v upward so I will use a variable transformer to see what looks best. A long way off yet though The wem etch is still on order as its out of stock but will be on its way as soon as it comes in, cant do a lot without it really. Steve BTW, you are right about the talent on this forum, you only need to have a browse through the finished builds and there is enough material there to clear up at a model show! Steve
|
|
|
|
|
stevie_o wrote:Thanks Jase, I am after a subtle effect with the lights, so I may play with the voltage a little to tone the brightness down if needed - the 12v leds work fine from 5v upward so I will use a variable transformer to see what looks best. A long way off yet though The wem etch is still on order as its out of stock but will be on its way as soon as it comes in, cant do a lot without it really. Steve BTW, you are right about the talent on this forum, you only need to have a browse through the finished builds and there is enough material there to clear up at a model show! Steve maybe modelspace should put a team together  “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Nice Idea Jase, BTW - I don't suppose you will be wandering anywhere near Lusty on your trip to Portsmouth will you? The RN website say she's currently alongside there. Steve
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
The place I got my fibre strand from recommends using a hot knife to cut it, is this nessessary? and if so is this simply heating a scalpel blade? I know its easy to cut but was wondering if the above method was any better for the light etc, producing a smoother end. Steve
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,520 Points: 24,651 Location: East midlands
|
Hi Steve, Glad to see your research and build ideas are coming together nicely. Still amazes me how much knowledge is available on this BRILL forum. Am waiting patiently for this to start, as It`s gonna be a cracker. If your still after acetate, I bought some on Ebay recently. A4 in size and very thin, for glass in the control tower of the Lanc build. Keep the updates and info coming, makes interesting reading. Happy building Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Thank you Del, I am itching to start this one but the WEM etch is still out of stock and will be coming as soon as its back in  So, have to wait a while as you know there's not much you can do without the etch as I have no idea how much of the kit will be replaced. Steve
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Stevie. I've never heard of using a hot knife to cut the fibre before, I've always used a safety razor blade in the past without too much bother, you might need a firm surface to cut against though, a cutting mat might be too soft, cracking the fibre but I haven't tried it on one of them myself. As far as the heat goes though, if you bring the cut end of the fibre up close to a candle flame (but not in it!!) The heat will cause the tip of the fibre to seal itself into a type of lens which will actually increase the light output. With care, that method will also allow you to feed the fibre through the deck for example, heat the tip and then pull it back down level with the deck where it will form the lens in the deck itself. (Practise with scrap fibre and plasticard is highly recommended!  ) Best of Luck! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Brilliant Robin, that's what I wanted to hear I guess they say to use a hot blade for the same reason as you suggested, I prefer your way though. BTW, what is a safety razor blade - I thought safety razors were the ones that you cant get at the blades? Steve
|
|
|
|
|
Lol razor blades are safety razors, they got their name as marketing to get people to by razor blades rather than using a cut throwt Modern razors are just a small strip sharpens with wire brushes “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
|
|
|
|
|
Ha! nice one Jase! Here you go Stevie, modern razors are called safety razors because as you said, you can't get at the blades but the blades they hold (apart from the modern disposables) are very thin double sided and razor sharp (naturally! ) A 'Safety Razor BLADE' on the other hand is much thicker and only single edged with a blunt strip to use as a handle on the other edge, hence the 'Safety' aspect. I use these either as they are or else contained in a metal retractable housing which gives greater control, either as a cutter or as a scraper. (This is what I use to trim off the flash and perform 'surgery' on the polythene figures in the dioramas, cuts through polythene plastic like the proverbial knife through butter!) You should be able to get them through a chemist although I bought a box of 100 from a travelling supplier, years ago and I'm still not half way through them! Brilliant little tools! Robin Plymouth57 attached the following image(s): First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Ahh Thanks both, I was getting confused between safety razor and "disposable" razors, I know what you mean now, the old fashioned razor blades! I was trying to imagine how you cut fibre with a disposable  Steve
|
|
|
 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Have you seen this 1/96 RC version..
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Tomick wrote:Have you seen this 1/96 RC version.. That has to be about 6' long! Good news is my etch arrived today I'm very happy with it too, never seen an A4 sized sheet before, 3 sheets in total so I can begin my build after a lot more reading of course, there is a very detailed 12 page book with it. I have dabbled in etch before, 1/35 scale mainly but this is going to be a whole new experience for me. Any tips welcome on here please, mainly would I be better off cleaning and priming the sheets as they are now in one piece or cutting them down to smaller sections as needed? Steve stevie_o attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Very nearly ready to get going with this. I had some bits and bobs arrive recently and am now fully kitted up (well nearly)
I plan to do some light, very subtle weathering on Lusty, nothing major. It will be hard for me knowing when to stop as it's very easy to get carried away with rust and grime etc.
The pics below show 3 different states I can aim for, The first very clean, the second with lots of rust on the anchor, grime and salt and the 3rd is a kind of in between, it's the last pic that I will be aiming for, slight rust, grime and a few salt streaks too.
There was a time years ago when I would make up the washes and effects but as I've got older I have also got lazier
The AK interactive effects are fab, I have a few already like rust streaks, oil etc but I saw that there is now a range of naval effects so I thought Id give them a go.
They are sold in 2 packs of 3 but I thought Id just get one to try out first so got the grime streaks for light grey ships, I will also be getting the salt streaks too as this can also be used on the flight deck.
They do seem expensive but so much easier when it's all done for you and they last forever Here's the one that just arrived -
Any more suggestions welcome, especially on the previous post (etch cleaning etc)
Steve
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
This PE link might be of interest to you and others.
http://www.scalemodelgui...to-etched-parts-models/
As for cleaning, I tend to use isopropyl alcohol
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Thanks Tom, I also just dug out Jase's very useful guide here - http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=7761
Steve
|
|
|
|
|
Etch looks great i have used WEM etch a lot over the years and the only word of caution i have is that they tend tone at the larger end of the scale scale  The AK wash is great you may also want to consider their sea salt for ships wash and wash for grey decks. Also if you want a real master class on how to apply it see this its brilliant http://www.scalemodelsho...tml?utm_source=googleps
really looking forward to you starting on this, hop my Etch advice is helpful Jade “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
|
Thanks Jase, I have ordered the AK salt and deck wash too. Looking at your etch advice I think I will wash and prime the whole sheet first then, really thought it would just crack off when the etch was bent though? Steve
|
|
|
|
|
stevie_o wrote:Thanks Jase, I have ordered the AK salt and deck wash too. Looking at your etch advice I think I will wash and prime the whole sheet first then, really thought it would just crack off when the etch was bent though?
Steve Short answer is yes it could. Personally i would not clean and prime until you need too, its amazing how much oils from fingers and work surfaces etch can pick up and you will be coming back to the same etch fret many times over the build. I find it easier to clean prime and sometimes paint items like railings, ladders on the fret if there is no or little manipulation of the part needed. But for anything that needs more complex curves or folds better to form it first in my view. If the etch is part of a bigger assembly that is all one colour then i tend to prime and paint as part of the assembly. I am guessing that much of your etch on this project can be painted with the main assembly as its largely all one colour. Only other tip from me is spend plenty of time comparing your kit and etch instructions. mark up where you are using etch on the build instructions and you decide where you are pre painting and mark up on the etch instruction. Final thing... Have you stated yet   “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
|
|
|
|
Guest (6)
|
US
