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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Pack 25 contains the final build Stages 97 - 100
Stage 97 - Contains pivot screws A/B, locking pins, coupler seats, coupler A/B, bolts, miniature wrench, screws and the drawbar.
Before starting this Stage, its a good idea to familiarise yourself with the painting information provided within the instructions of the four final stages.
Fitting the drawbar:
Turn the underframe body over, and align the larger hole of the drawbar with the threaded hole in the end beam, then tighten pivot screw A into the hole.
Turn the underframe back over. Insert the drawbar pin under the front of the tender and into the smaller hole in the drawbar. Once test-fitted, detach the tender.
Fitting the rear coupler:
Place the tender upside down. Insert coupler B through the hole in the coupling buffer and align the hole with the one in the tender base. Insert pivot screw B through the hole in the coupler and into the hole in the tender, then tighten pivot screw B into place.
Turn the tender back over and insert one of the locking pins into the hole.
Store the the front coupler parts until Stage 99.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 98 - Contains the reverse bar link, reverse bars A/B/C, screws, reverse bar guide and reverser box.
Assembling the reverse bar:
Place reverse bar parts B and C as shown, then tighten a 2x3mm screw into the three holes.
Place the end of reverse bar C into the hole in the reverser box, place reverse bar A onto reverse bar C, aligning the holes of both, then tighten 2x3mm screws into the holes.
Fitting the reverse bar:
Place the reverse bar guide up against the side of the boiler, aligning the holes at its top with the two holes, then tighten a 2x3mm screw into each hole.
Align the holes at the bottom of the reverser box with the two holes in the running board, then tighten a 2x3mm screw into each hole from underneath the running board.
Fitting the reverse bar link:
Place the reverse bar link over the free end of the left reverse link in the chassis, with the threaded hole facing inwards, then tighten a 2x6mm screw through the holes of the links.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 99 - Contains a trainspotter, driver and fireman figurines, and the coal moulding.
Fitting the engine body onto the chassis:
Before fitting the engine body onto the chassis, to avoid interference with the silicone tube of the motor, slide the boiler band around the boiler so that the fastening isn’t positioned in the centre.
You will also need to position the reverse bar link fitted in the last stage, so that it is facing towards the rear of the engine.
Take careful hold of the engine body, feed the headlight and firebox cables through the space in the underframe behind the ash box.
Now carefully lower the engine body onto the chassis, and at the same time pass the reverse bar link through the hole in the left running board.
Tighten a 2×5mm screw (Stage 97) into the left and right chassis plates to secure the body at the rear to the drawbar beam.
Slide the right gutter holder over the right gutter pipe, and tighten two 2x4mm screw through the holes into two nuts (all parts from Stage 58).
Fit the left gutter holder (Stage 58) to the left pipe and then tighten a 2 x 4mm screw (Stage 57) through the holder, the end beam and into the distribution valve (Stage 57).
Conecting the reverse bar:
Align the holes of the reverse bar with those of the reverse bar link, then tighten a 2×3mm screw (Stage 98) into each of the three holes. Make sure the bar is positioned in the bar guide.
Fitting the front coupler:
Secure one of the coupling seats to the front end beam with 2 x 8mm bolts (both from Stage 97). Place coupler A (Stage 97) into the coupler seat. Then place the second coupler seat on top of the first. Use the smal wrench to tighten a 2x8mm bolt into each hole of the upper coupler seat. Then place the locking pin (Stage 97) into the hole in the coupler.
Placing the figurines and coal moulding:
Place the driver on the seat and the fireman in front of the backhead. The trainspotter can be placed where ever you choose.
Place the coal moulding into the tender. I found this to be a loose fit, and suggest that for a more authentic look and realism, that the moulding is swopped for real chunks of coal, which can be purchased from a model rail outlet, or crush a few coal blocks yourself.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 100 - Final - Contains number plates, lamp lenses & lamps A/B, commemorative plate, tag holders, maker’s plates, district tags A/B/C, Turbine generator, screws, tank, brass wire and the tender handrails. (Note that the tank part is not within the blister pack, but is provided as a separate part within your delivery pack).
Assembling and fitting the lamps:
Before proceeding, make sure you identify the two types of lamp – A is for the tender and B is for the front of the locomotive. Lamps A have a large bracket hole at the back, and lamps B have a small bracket hole, which won’t fit over the tender’s lamp hooks.
Insert the lamp lenses into lamps A and B, then apply adhesive into to the back of the lens from the inside of the lamp to secure the lens in place.
Place the two lamps B over the lamp hooks at the front of the locomotive, and place the two lamps A over the lamp hooks at the rear of the tender.
Fitting the cab number plates:
Insert the brass wire into the hole in the corner of the number plate. Apply instant adhesive to hold it in place. When the glue is dry, cut the brass wire flush with the front of the plate. Repeat this for all corners of the plate, and then for another plate, so that you have two plates prepared in this way.
Glue the number plate, the maker’s plate and two tag holders to the left side of the cab, in the positions shown.
Insert district tag B or C into the left tag holder and tag A into the right. District tag B is "Nakatsugawa engine depot" and district tag C represents the "Umekoji engine depot".
Glue the second prepared number plate, the second maker’s mark and the other two tag holders to the right side of the cab. When inserting the district tags, make sure they match those on the left.
Fitting the tender number plate:
Place the brass wire into one of the holes of the number plate. Cut it off 5mm from the back of the plate. Repeat for each corner and fix with adhesive.
Insert the four lengths of wire into the four holes at the rear of the tender. Position the plate so there is a gap of 1mm between it and the tender, then glue it in place.
The tender handrails:
Follow the instructions diagram to bend both remining lengths wire to form the tender handrails. The glue one at both front corners of the tender into the holes indicated.
Fitting the remaining parts:
Align the hole of the turbine generator with the hole in front of the right side of the cab and secure it with a a 2x4mm screw.
Place the tank over the two holes in the running board, below the generator, and tighten a 2x4mm screw into each hole.
Glue the commemorative plate into the hole on the right side of the boiler in the position shown.
Place a chock set on the track in front of the lead and trailing wheel set.
This completes the construction of your model, final adjustments are noted at the end of the istructions along with information of the operation of the switches and model.
Your model should have the following operations: Locomotion movement, running sound, whistle sound, headlamp lights and firebox glow.
Hope you've enjoyed the journey!
The display case is an optional extra..
http://www.model-space.c...1-steam-locomotive.html
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