Hi Brex

All looking good to me.

I'll be interested to follow your planking on other model as I presume will be much the same in parts as SOTS re narrowing some planks.

Regards

George

Hi Brex.

I take it that at the stern there will be a catch up re planking from bottom of keel where it's a straight lay upwards then the necessity of one or more pointed plank pieces back towards towards the bow to connect into your shaped planks.

It's looking really good.

Interested to see what you think about the inks.


Regards

George

Two of three photos following show how I am supposed to plank the stern for my other current project being a schooner HMS Jackson. Both are taken from the detailed instructions provided. I have also added a third photo to show some experiments with the wooden cannon mounts using colours and inks. The SotS is there for reference and I will describe how the cannon was painted). the two mounts in the background are surplus and one is coloured with a yellow ink and the other with chestnut ink. I will try a dark brown ink for reference later but suspect this will not be effective. The inks here are working as a stain. Personally I like the yellow inks (Flesh Wash) as it highlights the grain effectively and gives an oak like appearance.

I wanted to mention the painting of the cannon in the shot above.

I removed the die marks with a small file and then dipped the cannon into some solder flux (mild type). Straight after that I thoroughly rinsed it with detergent to remove residues. I then used an acrylic primer followed by a black acrylic base-coat. I then dry-brushed raised edges with a mix of black and metallic silver to 'highlight' the raised edges revealing some fine detail including what appears to be a rose. I also ran a fine line around the ridges.

Dry-brushing technique is easy to learn and do, simply dip the tip of a flat brush into the pint and then wipe the brush dry on a cloth to the point where it seems there is no paint left. Now using quick strokes on the surface you want to highlight, working the brush back and forth. This should quickly reveal hidden detail, Don't over do it as you will simply add paint to unwanted sections on the job and lose the detail. When it comes to figures you can use this technique in combination with keyline and inks to achieve depth and shadows, works well on clothes and faces.

Thank you Michael. I am learning lots from others and hope that I can help others too as we all progress.

nicely done bb.

G'day Brex

It's all looking good and I like your careening dock. Looks really steady and safe.

Regards
JohnP

Thats a sturdy looking jig Brex, very nice
Steve

Hi Steve- O Yes it is sturdy but despite its lumbering size, I am finding the jig supporting the hull frame is proving to be very helpful whilst completing the infills. Its stability allows me to work confidently with the wood rasp to shape the infill as I go. I know it was an overkill but it works!

Hi Brex

Good job on the infills mate.

Yes the depression you mention is very easy to get because of the harder rib frame tends to cause hollowing out next to it if not careful. I had one of my infills do the same when I looked at it from different angle. I just filled and sanded off to level again. It's not that important as the planking will go rib to rib and any slight hollows under will take up with glue. Nice to have perfect, but very close to it is ok too in this instance.

Regards

George