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 Hi Jim Nice work so far, if your looking for a good cutter that most of us would reccomend try here http://www.proopsbrother...o%21&PR=-1&TB=A
Go for the £8.11 one if you havent already ordered Regards Andy  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Thanks Andy, I was just about to put the link in for the Linic cutter - that's the one I have too Steve
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 Rank: Beginner Level 3  Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/02/2012 Posts: 29 Points: 87 Location: Boston, lincolnshire
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Unfortunately I've already ordered, I think I should have Googled harder, I didn't come across any of those from Proopsbrother!! This is the one I have ordered, a little bit more expensive: http://www.ema-models.co...-tools/the-chopper.html
What I'm trying to work out is if it will be easier to stain a complete length of the Tanganyika strip then cut it to length before coating with the antique oil?? Adrie, My plank lengths will be 135mm in a three plank shift as per Magpies build. I love the effect he managed to achieve with his deck. Either way, I'm liking the tinkering. I quite like learning new techniques and it seems every step of this build will be a challenge. 
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Hi Jim The main trouble with using wood stains is the wood itself as although in theory it's all came from the same tree each piece will absorb the stain differently. So staining before cutting to length should give a more even finish, maybe also after cutting to length a good mixing up of the planks will distribute the colour variations aswell. Not to worry about your cutter, just one piece of advice next time before you buy have a look through the tools section of the forum, there are good recommendations for a great deal of various tools there Regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Hi Jim, looks like you are making good steady progress... Looking good.... .. Very well done.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/02/2012 Posts: 29 Points: 87 Location: Boston, lincolnshire
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Andy, I thought that staining a whole length would be a better, I'll ensure that they're mixed up. I must admit, I've not looked elsewhere around the forum, just kind of hung around the ship modelling section. I have had a good look around now though, there's some very good tips. I think next time before I rush off and buy the first thing that I find on Google, I'll ask around here first. Though looking at the chopper that I've ordered, I quite like the fact that it's so substantial. Plus there are a number of angle templates. Hopefully it will do the job, there's plenty of chopping to do!!! Gandale, Many thanks, I'm just going to take my time and avoid rushing anything. I'm very pleased so far with the progress though.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2013 Posts: 174 Points: 534 Location: Bethlehem PA, USA
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FYI, the wood on the real decks was not stained. It was cleaned on a fairly regular basis with holystones which sanded and cleaned the deck. The wood was just plain raw. The swelling on the deck boards from getting wet all the time also helped to stop the deck from leaking below to some extent.
I left mine raw for the accuracy plus if you have an accident it can be cleaned (sanded) off easily. Also whatever you glue to the deck will stick a lot better since the glue will penetrate the planks better.
One thng I did to give the deck a kind of dirty worn look was to rub pencil on some paper, rub that onto a towel and then buff it into the high traffic areas on the deck. I did that after the deck was finished. It looks like it's worn from all of the foot traffic.
The most difficult thing I did on my ship was adding wear to the ship. First you do this beautiful perfect job, then you get to sand and beat wear marks into everything. I went for a half years worth of wear on the ship kind of look, but personally I think it looks a lot nicer than the out of the box look.
Just food for thought.....
P.S. Goods real good so far IMO.
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/02/2012 Posts: 29 Points: 87 Location: Boston, lincolnshire
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Johncal, Thanks for the advice. Whilst I've done a lot of research on the period and poured through tons of photo's of historic ships, particularly the Victory. One thing I haven't done is look into how these ships were maintained whilst in service. Looking at photos of Victory's lower decks they seem very dark, which would make sense as they are in a preserved and not operational state. I think my approach will still involve wood stain, but I will try out a lighter oak and aim for subtlety purely to give the strips a slightly more oaky look. Your tip with the pencil rubbing is very good, I've used the technique a few times, mostly on aircraft wings and it's very effective. You are also very right about weathering, it has on more than one occasion been very difficult to dirty up and chip away at perfectly sprayed camouflage. Oh and my new Chopper turned up, seems like quite a substantial bit of kit. I'll post a photo a little later!!!
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Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/02/2012 Posts: 29 Points: 87 Location: Boston, lincolnshire
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Well it's been a couple of weeks since my last update. I would love to report that I've made major progress, but I haven't!! I'm still plodding along with the deck, which is now Maple strip and not Tanganyika as I originally planned. The Maple strip was a little harder to cut than I expected, particularly when it came to trying to cut them in the Chopper. I went through a couple of blades before I switched to using a metal mitre and razor saw, which I found much easier. Typical really after I'd spent £25 on the Chopper specifically for cutting the strips!! Now I have a box full of what can best be described as coffee stirrers!!! At least they'll be good for something if this all goes wrong. I practised laying the planks (very roughly) just to see what it would look like. My plan now for the decks is to use diluted 'Weather It' to give a slightly aged look, then use Danish Oil on the lower and Antique Oil on the upper decks. This will be applied once the strips have been fitted and sanded smoother. One thing I need to look into before gluing anything is simulating the caulking. I had originally planned to use a black permanent 'Sharpie' marker. Which would have been applied after the strips had been coated with Antique Oil to prevent the ink bleeding. But with my new plan, it will be bare wood, laid, sanded then weathered and oiled. I have looked at black electrical tape, but I don't imagine it would hold up to much sanding. Likewise using pencil, would probably be obliterated when it came to weathering and oiling. If anyone has a favourite method for caulking please let me know!!! So I'm yet again having to stop and really think about what it is I want to achieve. This kit is very much one step forward and two steps back!!! I have also started infilling between the bow formers in an attempt at adding a little more strength and surface area for when it comes to planking. It still amazes me how solid this thing is becoming. It must be very heavy once it's finished!!! jimmcoker attached the following image(s):
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