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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi William, Looking at that last pic it seems you have a problem both sides of the frame, the right side is a dip inwards and the left side looks like it may be titling outward. I'm wondering if frame 26 is tilted to the left but hard to tell without actually picking it up and looking at all angles. Can I trouble you for some more clear pics of as many angles as you can, top down showing the last 4/5 frames of both sides and perhaps some of where the frame meets the keel. It looks wrong but hard to tell from a distance what it is. Steve
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi William, It appears that the ribs of frame 26 on both sides will need to be cut out and replaced at the correct angle. You can pin a plank between frame 25 and 27 higher up to see where the frame needs to be. Apparently, in the early kits these ribs were not correct. Here are some links of how to go about this - although frame 15 is shown it will be the same method http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=1310
http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=1153
Steve
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 248 Location: London
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Ohhhhh c**p. Ok so the post says to effectively bend it back or to cut a wedge out to compensate. Are you saying that the rib on the other side is wrong too (it looked ok at first glance last night)?
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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If you pin a plank across from frame 25 - 27 on both sides on the upper part of the rib you will see what needs doing, if on the other side the plank sits against frame 26 without dipping or bulging out then leave it alone. The side that is clearly wrong will need correcting though. Please post some more detailed pics up of both sides before making any changes just to see if it's not something else, perhaps with the test plank fitted across the frames too. Don't panic though, it's only wood and can be fixed  Steve
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 248 Location: London
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Ok so I read the article and acted before I saw this (sorry!). Other side is ok so I gently cut away the planks on row 9&8 and then gently steamed and bend it back, looks ok I think (although tell me of it's not good enough). William's Build attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 248 Location: London
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William's Build attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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What an improvement Looks perfect to me from what I can see in those last pics anyway, nice work Steve
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 248 Location: London
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Thanks Steve, it got a bit hairy there! I wanted to ask you how you did the little barrels that come strapped onto a bit of wood, did you use the Danish oil and weather it or actually paint them?
Also asa side note. I'm currently doing layer 12 of planking and in the magazine it shows that the plank should end at the forward bulk head but I guess I've sanded the boards down overall by 2mm too much because I've had to use the entire width of plank 12 to cover the top of the bow formers. Is it a problem that I'm a row out or can I tidy it up as I finish the hull?
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 248 Location: London
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And another one, as tempting at it is, I guess I should wait until all the hull planking is finished before sanding it?
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 248 Location: London
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Another question - I'm about to start cutting the second row of gun ports and have made and used the piece of wood to measure the height of them but I wanted to know if the fun ports should or a perfect line or if they should follow the bottom plank. I only ask because there is an ever so slight bend upwards at the bow and stern of the ship, also I have cut and fittd all the gunport supports behind the areas but if I drill straight down into the 12mm cross that I've drawn then the majority of the drill bits are hitting below the added gun supports. William's Build attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 248 Location: London
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William's Build attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Don't forget that the gun ports line up with the guns themselves which sit on the decks, which in turn curve upwards at either end.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi William, sorry I missed your first question, only just seen it now. The barrels are not the supplied ones, I got them online and get you a link if you like. The gunports follow the line of the deck so will curve gently from bow to stern rather than a dead straight line. The planking question I will look into now for you, have to hve a look at my mags for that. Steve
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Yes, I hit the same problem, have a look here. http://forum.model-space...s&m=27068#post27068
Use a cocktail stick to test the hole you make is straight and level and comes through the port at the centre. If that happens then everything should be OK.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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The build guide says that it is also acceptable to have plank 12 curve around the bow formers, so there are many variations here - plank 11 may be enough to reach the top of the formers, or you may need half of plank 12 too, or in your case the whole of plank 12 will be used - dosent really matter and just depends on how much you have been tapering the lower planks. BTW, best to wait till planking is done before sanding, this will keep it more even and also ensure that you dont take too much off, the planks are only 2mm thick so double sanding could result in thin spots in some areas. Steve
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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nice to see you on track again william. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 248 Location: London
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Thanks guys, smashing input as usual, I'll crack on then and check it with a cocktail pick. Steve o could you send me that link, looked over your diary again and love all the little custom bits that you have added. Any more links on other bits that you have would be most appreciated!
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 248 Location: London
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Thanks guys, smashing input as usual, I'll crack on then and check it with a cocktail pick. Steve o could you send me that link, looked over your diary again and love all the little custom bits that you have added. Any more links on other bits that you have would be most appreciated!
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Progressing nicely William, looking good....  Regards Alan
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 248 Location: London
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Hi all. Quick question, have a look at the picture with my template below, it says that the back starts at the front of the frame (shown) but in the magazine shows the template held over the whole frame, can you tell me if my picture shows the correct positioning? William's Build attached the following image(s):
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US
