Ready to send list if you send me email.

It has 1mm x widths you require. I think ramin and basswood lime are both whitish.

Regards

George

Hi Brex.

Just a tip that may help re fitting brass mesh pieces in launch.

I don't know how far you have gone with launch however when you do get to fit brass mesh in bottom of launch after dry fitting for shape and trimming if necessary you'll want to blacken with burnisher. Well, you'll find it just won't work.

They are not brass and are anodised metal of some type. It doesn't matter if you soak them or brush it on it will have no effect at all on the anodising. (Maybe soaked for a month might work. )

You'll need to use an emery board and file till you remove all anodising back to metal on the side you want to face upwards. Be careful not to groove while filing. Once all cleaned off back to base metal, surface will then blacken in 15-30 seconds. Leave for a couple of minutes and then pick up in pincers and rinse in water. Pat dry only and if satisfied OK, if not do process over and leave longer till happy. Then glue in place.

Watch the glue as it will seep through top of mesh so only corners on to the foot boards ends.

Hope that will stop you being as frustrated as I was trying to blacken anodised metal.

I had visions of blackening all the brass fittings as no brass on ships those days all iron fittings. However if all the fittings are anodised metal I'll have to think again. Or emery board everything.

Regards

George

G'day Brex and George

Thanks for the heads-up George on the "brass" mesh. I've been searching all over for blackening fluid without success so far, but it seems the mesh is not brass at all? So maybe I can stop looking now.
If it's anodised as you say, perhaps a small wire brush will remove it? What do you think guys? I haven't tried anything - yet...

Your whale is looking good Brex.

Regards
JohnP

Hi Brex, Adam and John,

Re the burnishing. (Blackening of anodised metal mesh.)

John; You can get "Burnisher" from gun shops. You will need it to blacken the mesh after treatment re emery board or if some other solution can be found to remove anodising so burnisher will work.

Adam; Maybe what you say may work. I somehow would be surprised though as hard for watery paint to stick to anodising. I think you would need to metal prime first and that will likely clog holes.

Hi Brex;

Sorry to use your thread re reply Adam and John, but queries asked here.

Regards

George

Hi Brex.

I can appreciate your limited time re building. If you're working it's hard at times to make time. I know from previous working experience 7 a.m. till sometimes 8 p.m. and further work at home.

I got your PM and have saved to my favourites so I can look at it with time and leisure.


Regards

George

Hi Brex.

Saw your URL.

Very interesting. Hope they can get to make a movie. Should be more of this kind of history.

Regards

George

Hi Here are the shots of the remodeled skiff. Still some cleaning up to do but getting closer to the mark.

Hi George. I am still not sure which way to go at this stage. I have used paints and washes on the outside of the original skiff I built and will use stains on the inside. At the moment I need to clean up the inner to get a reasonable perspective as there are a few bits of glue and filler poking through.

My main issue with staining the outside of the new version is some of the timber is already stained from sources I am not sure about, maybe oil from my fingers or form soaking the timber overnight to make it more flexible. Whatever the cause there are darker spots that mar the final finish if I intend to use a clear only.

Another option is to use a lightly coloured stain and if it works over coat that with a clear.

If the stain does not work then from your experience is it ok to overcoat the stain with an acrylic (note no clear finish applied at this stage).

The other question is of course were these skiffs varnished or painted or stained originally. Not sure on that. Any suggestion?

Thanks.
Brex.

Hi Brex,

Good to see that your launch MkII is coming along well.

Just thought I would pass a quick comment regarding stain / acrylic (however you may be aware of this already and I am not sure how you are going to go about painting the two types of finishes).

Anyhow, acrylic paint will not bond well if applied onto oil based paint / stain. This is if you are thinking of doing any overcoats onto the stain (if it is oil based).

Not telling you how to suck eggs, but, just thought I would pass this comment to you in order to avoid a potential launch MkIII.

Regards,

Adam

Hey George. Many thanks on the livery and the staining. I now know which way to go i.e. paint not stain. Thank you.

I have attached some photos to show the various effects and have to agree browns are out and burgundy (maroon) is in! After all being a Queenslander what other choice is there? Certainly not blue.