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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/03/2010 Posts: 152 Points: 513 Location: Liverpool,England
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Have to admit I'm a tad disappointed that we are supposed to draw the decking in the cutaway section with a pencil and rule. I will probably buy some strips of wood to do it properly, but I really think this should have been included in the build. I've not complained about the copper being an extra or anything else, but a few strips of wood ?  Brings to mind the expression "spoiling the ship for a lick of tar". Before anyone has a go about people moaning, I'm not. I love the build, this is just an observation that sounds like a moan. Jimmy L.
current builds : Lancaster 1/32 (Hachette) Revell USS Kearsarge Titanic Lifeboat
I started off with nothing and I've still got most of it left.
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 Rank: Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/04/2010 Posts: 1,266 Points: 3,841 Location: The Quantock Hills,Somerset
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Have to say that i'm in agreement with you.You would think that a kit as detailed & yes as expensive as this would have supplied some proper planking for this bit. Rob Nolli Illigitimi Carborundum!!!Current Builds: HMS Victory, SV Thermopylae
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/06/2010 Posts: 242 Points: 720
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Agreed. I am hoping to plank it if I can gather enough spare strips. Does anyone know the wood that is supplied to use on the main deck of the model? Will probably end up buying some if I know what type of wood it is to use instead of the simulated decking Tom
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/03/2010 Posts: 57 Points: 179 Location: bedford uk
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i was thinking of staining the deck and then drawing the planks on, or as i have yet to start my build i might wait until we get to the deck planking and then match as close to the size supplied
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I'm replacing my decks with Tanganyka planks anyways so will plank mine with those. On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/03/2010 Posts: 57 Points: 179 Location: bedford uk
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so will you use the supplied decks and plank over them? or a thinner deck to take into account the height difference?
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/03/2010 Posts: 215 Points: 617 Location: Blackburn
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This only really applies if you are planning on doing the open section otherwise it wont show. Must admit that for this sort of cost i thought the deck planking would have been supplied but Deag at its best.
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 205 Points: 598 Location: West Midlands
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I now know why admin did not answer my original question regarding the planking for the cut-out section. I still feel that it is/was a valid point. Perhaps if he had done so we would have avoided to-days comment from Kan, as information, be it good or not so good is better than nothing. Now, like Kan, I feel that that we may be in for a many more disappointing features or lack of them as the case may be and this cannot be good for the overall morale of our modellers, especially people like myself who have never built anything like this before. Using a pencil to simulate planking is an insult to modellers of any standard when they are investing in a model of this size and cost, painting would have been a better option. I will now have wait until the deck planking arrives and then purchase more in order that I can add planking to the cut-out section to maintain the quality of build that the model deserves. May I respectfully suggest that Admin answers any future valid build questions quickly and honestly and just maybe we can avoid any more negative comments. Rant over but if you are out there Admin please advise what planking is being supplied so I do not have to wait to long before I can continue my build.
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/03/2010 Posts: 146 Points: 473 Location: Plymouth
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I am starting to think it's time to jump ship. The next thing is DeAgostini will be asking us to make it out of papier mashi. This isn't a cheap build either provide the necessary materials or bug out. For all those DeAgostini worshippers the time has come to deliver a broadside. ArtfulBodger Previous Build: HMS. Bounty
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/03/2010 Posts: 215 Points: 617 Location: Blackburn
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Must admit seriously questioning this build, looking at partworks forum issue 18 came out on the 4th so why do subscribers have to wait till the 9th before despatch and the lame excuse of `its down to Royal Mail` every other company can get your stuff to you in a reasonable time so why not Deag and why say problem getting supply of parts of issue 18? I think its time Deag actually stated in writing what is actually supplied with this kit. What extras do we have to pay for? Answer from admin would be nice.
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/03/2010 Posts: 188 Points: 614 Location: Llandudno
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magpie1832 wrote:I'm replacing my decks with Tanganyka planks anyways so will plank mine with those. Hi magpie. What is the benefit of using Tanganyka? Thanks in advance Bob
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/05/2010 Posts: 236 Points: 808 Location: Manchester
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What width planks are you using magpie? i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
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Boaz wrote:What is the benefit of using Tanganyka? I'm using Tanganyka wood as I think it looks nicer than Basswood which A/L tend too use on all there models and the Jotika Victory also uses Tanganyka on their Kit. P.S Are you off too Rhyl today they got Mini Airshow today.(Red Arrows etc) I'm leaving in 1 hour lol. See the motherinlaw in Colwyn bay while there. piot007 wrote:What width planks are you using magpie? I'm using 3mm plank on this one as that's what the scale size would be.
I'm not saying everyone should change there planks, but I am going too as I think the Tanganyka has a nicer look to it.I also am looking at replacing the section of false ply deck. My idea is to cut out the section that needs planking and planking direct onto the spars. Don't attempt too do this if your unsure. Its only an idea at the moment and am awaiting my delivery of my Victory parts as well.
Thanks Chris...On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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I agree with Chris on Tanganyka, I used it on the deck of my Bounty, plus the Launch. It stains well, colours good. 3mm width is about right, gonna get some soon.
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Quick note; If Your wondering what tanganyka looks like Click My Hms Surprise Link under this post.. There you will find my deck on the HMS Surprise which is 5mm planks of Tanganyka. On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi Shipmates! If you divide the number of planks drawn on the middle deck by the width of the hull at the same point you will get about 5.29mm. So if you get Tanganyka Strips 1x5mm this will workout fine!, if you get Tanganyka Strips 0.5x5mm you will need to be carefull the glue you use doesn't warp the strips. Tanganyka strips are used on other HMS Victory kits for the desk as it looks good and it has a fine grain. 
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 Rank: Newbie Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 08/08/2010 Posts: 3 Points: 9 Location: uk
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Well, Hello Guys and Goodbye, Here we go again with more deag copouts! They're not getting another bean from me! I'm cancelling my shop subcription and getting my deposit back. Sorry, but the best solution is to simply buy the kit...at least you know what you're getting.
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 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/04/2010 Posts: 25 Points: 75
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CMB wrote:I now know why admin did not answer my original question regarding the planking for the cut-out section. I still feel that it is/was a valid point. Perhaps if he had done so we would have avoided to-days comment from Kan, as information, be it good or not so good is better than nothing. Now, like Kan, I feel that that we may be in for a many more disappointing features or lack of them as the case may be and this cannot be good for the overall morale of our modellers, especially people like myself who have never built anything like this before. Using a pencil to simulate planking is an insult to modellers of any standard when they are investing in a model of this size and cost, painting would have been a better option. I will now have wait until the deck planking arrives and then purchase more in order that I can add planking to the cut-out section to maintain the quality of build that the model deserves. May I respectfully suggest that Admin answers any future valid build questions quickly and honestly and just maybe we can avoid any more negative comments. Rant over but if you are out there Admin please advise what planking is being supplied so I do not have to wait to long before I can continue my build. Yo dude...scale modelling is a concept that frequently escapes the novice builders but is exactly what it suggests in the title...recreating someting to a scale -effectively a visual- representaion of the actual thing albeit when viewed from the same distance as your model. On such a basis using pencil lines to represent planking isn't an insult, it instead offers you far more personal control over the visual/scale effect on your model than the wood supplied to create the same effect. How does that figure? Well in truth if you were view the real deck planks of Victory from a distance equal in size to that of your model, then you simply wouldn't be able to see them. Expanding upon this idea, draw a one millimetre wide line on the deck of your model and it of course represents 84 millimetres on the real thing. Press the lead of your pencil hard on the ply and you've obviously created the distinct visual impression of individual planks. The results of your heavy handed application of lead, however, would mean that in reality Nelson would have fallen into the gaps your pencil lines represent on the real ship...so how real and and how scale is that. The short answer is...it isn't, not at all!! The magazine does actually -although feetingly- touched upon this concept in issue 15 when covering the copper plating on Victories hull. I'd go with the pencil line representation dude, think scale as you proceed and consequently keep them subtle to the point of being almost invisible unless you look very hard at the finished thing. That is then touching upon the concept of scale representaion. Rivergypsy.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/05/2010 Posts: 236 Points: 808 Location: Manchester
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My word, another one bites the dust. Sorry to see you go shipmate. Hope you change your mind Davey. i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
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