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 Rank: Amateur Level 1  Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/04/2014 Posts: 36 Points: 108 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Hi John,
Beautiful work.
Regards,
Michael
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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MichaelKan wrote:Hi John,
Beautiful work.
Regards,
Michael Hi Michael Thanks for looking in and the nice comment. Regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2014 Posts: 149 Points: 456 Location: Forest Lake QLD
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I think you have done very well. Top work. Brex
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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bb1949 wrote:I think you have done very well. Top work. Brex Hi Brex Thanks for looking in and kind words. Another progress report is on the way.  Regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hi Everyone. Here's progress report #2 June 2014 Lower deck installed. Had a bit of bother aligning Rib 13 starboard side with the deck slot. The rib was warped forward slightly (approx 5deg) so I made a ram with a piece of dowel against the base of frame 2 and carefully slid the other end down rib 13 until it was perpendicular. The rest of the deck then installed easily. Rib 13 is still slightly off and will probably give me a bit more heartburn for the second deck.  Here's the pics of the deck installed; John Passmore attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Preparing to install second deck. I've fitted additional supports under the deck beams. Started with scrap pieces of 5mm balsa but found too fiddly and they persisted in falling over. The dowels were much easier to prepare and instal. I was a little concerned about the integrity of the false cannon supports once drilling holes for the cannon commenced, so I've added buttresses behind each rib for extra strength. There was a gap between the deck and beam at frame 22 so I added an extra beam as a packer so the deck now has full bearing on the relevant beams. Note the use of my trusty brick pavers to weigh it all down. Here are some pics; John Passmore attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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And finally here's the stern assembly completed (issue15). I think it has been corrected where struts 45 meet the upper deck 42, as there was no need for the little packers per Mr T's build. All went together without a problem. I've decided not to do balsa infills between frames 26 and 27 - there is so much wood in there it doesn't seem necessary. That's all for now, bring on the planking!!! Regards to all JohnP John Passmore attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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HI John. All looking really good mate.  As you say decking comes next with assembly parts as well. Decking should be easier with your infills giving you a profile to follow. Re the stern fitting of issue 15. There is still an assembly fitting with issue 16 to go in between end of 2nd deck and the assembled issue 15. So even more timber at the stern. Also good with that issue 15 assembly once glued after issue 16 goes in between, the whole piece can be turned upside down for bottom planking later because it will rest on assembly 15 and the bow piece without any rib frames coming into contact with surface. Keep up the great work. Regards George PS Have sent you PM with list of planking available Float A Boat. Building HMS SOTS
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/04/2014 Posts: 99 Points: 303 Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Hi John,
Fabulous work. The deck supports are a benefit with the additional weight being applied when installing the second middle deck.
That said, there seems to be a common trait whereby there are some significant weighted objects being placed on the second deck. On my build I have only done a dry fit. For mine, whilst the join between the centre and aft deck sections are flush, between the fwd and centre sections I have a 2mm step. I need to apply a heavy object a the end of the fwd deck piece to achieve a decent join. This is despite the lower deck being flush. I will post pictures in my build log this evening (I'm currently at work and checking into the forum on my lunch break).
So, I'm not sure whether other members have used heavy weights because of similar issues.
Again, great progress with your build.
Regards,
Adam
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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George1 wrote:HI John. All looking really good mate. As you say decking comes next with assembly parts as well. Decking should be easier with your infills giving you a profile to follow. Re the stern fitting of issue 15. There is still an assembly fitting with issue 16 to go in between end of 2nd deck and the assembled issue 15. So even more timber at the stern. Also good with that issue 15 assembly once glued after issue 16 goes in between, the whole piece can be turned upside down for bottom planking later because it will rest on assembly 15 and the bow piece without any rib frames coming into contact with surface. Keep up the great work. Regards George PS Have sent you PM with list of planking available Float A Boat. Hi George Thanks for the kind words, are you referring to deck planking or hull planking? Regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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AdamHall wrote:Hi John,
Fabulous work. The deck supports are a benefit with the additional weight being applied when installing the second middle deck.
That said, there seems to be a common trait whereby there are some significant weighted objects being placed on the second deck. On my build I have only done a dry fit. For mine, whilst the join between the centre and aft deck sections are flush, between the fwd and centre sections I have a 2mm step. I need to apply a heavy object a the end of the fwd deck piece to achieve a decent join. This is despite the lower deck being flush. I will post pictures in my build log this evening (I'm currently at work and checking into the forum on my lunch break).
So, I'm not sure whether other members have used heavy weights because of similar issues.
Again, great progress with your build.
Regards,
Adam Hi Adam Thank you for looking in and your kind comments. The only reason I used heavy weights is because the centre deck sections were a bit woofy (slightly wavy) and I wanted to make sure everything was bearing 100% and nice and flat. It seems your forward sections must be warped if there is a step (at rib 13 I assume?) and the lower deck is flush...I can't think of any other reason.  . Good idea to post some pics and lets have a look, maybe the experts will have a remedy. Regards JohnP
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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John Passmore wrote:George1 wrote:HI John. All looking really good mate. As you say decking comes next with assembly parts as well. Decking should be easier with your infills giving you a profile to follow. Re the stern fitting of issue 15. There is still an assembly fitting with issue 16 to go in between end of 2nd deck and the assembled issue 15. So even more timber at the stern. Also good with that issue 15 assembly once glued after issue 16 goes in between, the whole piece can be turned upside down for bottom planking later because it will rest on assembly 15 and the bow piece without any rib frames coming into contact with surface. Keep up the great work. Regards George PS Have sent you PM with list of planking available Float A Boat. Hi George Thanks for the kind words, are you referring to deck planking or hull planking? Regards JohnP Hi John. Re planking; The list I sent you PM is suitable for both because of different sizes re thickness and width re different woods. You'll find that when we actually get deck planking it is 5mm wide of Basswood/Lime so some builders like Gandale (Alan) have gone for 4mm as feels looks better when you consider 1/84 scale would make 5 mm decking 42 cm wide where 4 mm equals about 33 cm which is just over a foot wide and 3 mm equals 25 cm or 10 inches. So it's really up to the individual model builder what they go for. I will be going for the 4 mm as I liked the look of Alan's decking so will have to purchase. The list is also suitable for hull planking re sizes if you decide to go for different coloured timber than supplied re staining later or whether you intend to paint and it won't matter. Hope that's of some help. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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 Rank: Super-Elite    Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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the deck you are referring to has a slight slope either end,so some weight needs to be applied so that the deck sits on it's support beams.but be careful not to overdo the weights, or a saggy bottom occurs,  Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Progressing really well John, she's really starting to take shape now and won't be long before you fit the first plank,,,, .. Keep posting, will be following with interest.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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karl1113 wrote:the deck you are referring to has a slight slope either end,so some weight needs to be applied so that the deck sits on it's support beams.but be careful not to overdo the weights, or a saggy bottom occurs, Hi Karl Yes you are right, and thank you for the timely advice. However, I would not use such heavy weights if not for the balsa infills which make the hull very strong and sturdy. I am very attached to the lady and would never treat her roughly!!! Kind regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Gandale wrote:Progressing really well John, she's really starting to take shape now and won't be long before you fit the first plank,,,, .. Keep posting, will be following with interest.... Regards Alan Hi Alan Thank you for visiting and your kind comment. Yes I'm very happy with progress of the ship so far but I'm not too happy with my effort with the ships' boat. I have painted it in accordance with Mr T's diary but as my planking is so lumpy the maroon has leached under the masking tape and into the ivory white. If I can't rectify it I'm considering tossing it in the bin and back ordering issue 7 to start again.   Regards JohnP
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Hi John Very nice work so far and looking good. As for your problem with paint leaching under your masking tape, try this. Paint the ivory white as per normal then use masking tape to mask off, note use a good masking tape like Tamiya's, yes I know its expensive but it works that's why you pay more for it   . Then after masking use some ivory white paint and paint the edge of the masking tape, this should seal the edge and prevent any leaching under it and give you that nice straight edge. After it is dry paint with the maroon paint, another tip here is to always paint away from the edge of the tape never brush down into the edge. Hope this helps regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Andy's advice should sort your problem, only thing I would add is to ensure you have pressed the tape down so you have good contact along the edge. I use a small aft pencil eraser for this. then seal it as Andy says.
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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arpurchase wrote: Hi John Very nice work so far and looking good. As for your problem with paint leaching under your masking tape, try this. Paint the ivory white as per normal then use masking tape to mask off, note use a good masking tape like Tamiya's, yes I know its expensive but it works that's why you pay more for it . Then after masking use some ivory white paint and paint the edge of the masking tape, this should seal the edge and prevent any leaching under it and give you that nice straight edge. After it is dry paint with the maroon paint, another tip here is to always paint away from the edge of the tape never brush down into the edge. Hope this helps regards Andy G'day Andy Thanks for the great tips. I shall certainly follow your recommendations and let you know the result. (I still reserve the right to chuck it in the bin if I'm not happy with it!!!). Regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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jase wrote:Andy's advice should sort your problem, only thing I would add is to ensure you have pressed the tape down so you have good contact along the edge. I use a small aft pencil eraser for this. then seal it as Andy says.
Jase G'day Jase Thanks for looking in and the useful tip. The main problem is, I think, the hull of the ships boat is not smooth enough. Knowing this, I sanded and filled it where possible but it's still a little bumpy. I'll certainly try your little trick with the eraser. Regards JohnP
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