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Hi George, looks like everything is coming along very nicely... great to see you have now started planking.... As for tapering planks you may find this post I put together some time ago of use to you.... Covers the basics so hope it helps.. http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=6169
Regards Alan
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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hi george,as andy has said,tapering is done where needed, also don't forget that you may need to bevel the strake as well, due to the rounded sides of the hull, there are full size rules in tapering,and some carry this over to scale planking as well. rule one, only taper down to half width of plank,so what i do is, I start tapering from the 2nd. plank at the bow. I don't like the look of the tapering when it is tapered down to a point. with practice it does become easier. good luck.  Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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arpurchase wrote: Hi George Looking great , now for your questions. I generally just taper the upper side of the plank but do do both sides in the tighter spots/more acute angle's. So the untapered edge is put to the previous tapered edge already fitted to the hull, some people prefere to do this the other way round and is down to individual prefereance, a little adjustment may be needed but not much. A great many builders here found that pre drilling the bamboo for the pins made the fitting of the bamboo strips a lot easyer,also try to keep the joint/knotty parts to the off cut area's as much as possible as they tend to have little give and split when bent. Starting off a plank is down to practice really and you will improve as you do more but the pre-drilling should help with placement too. Regards Andy  Hi Andy. Thanks heaps for the info on the tapering. I'll be checking your post periodically as I go about it. Been watching the knots. Half of the supply was knotty and side bent as well. I'll use them as shorts where clean. Re the pre-drilling. I done that but found a little hard to hold nail, hammer and boat at same time.  I lust persisted and got it done. I thought there might be an easier way so asked. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Gandale wrote:Hi George, looks like everything is coming along very nicely... great to see you have now started planking.... As for tapering planks you may find this post I put together some time ago of use to you.... Covers the basics so hope it helps.. http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=6169
Regards Alan Hi Alan. I went to your URL and found it very useful and again will be looking at it regularly while I'm tapering. So thanks heaps. It is really appreciated and easy to follow your instructions. I get my thumb plane coming Monday so looking forwards to using it. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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karl1113 wrote:hi george,as andy has said,tapering is done where needed, also don't forget that you may need to bevel the strake as well, due to the rounded sides of the hull, there are full size rules in tapering,and some carry this over to scale planking as well. rule one, only taper down to half width of plank,so what i do is, I start tapering from the 2nd. plank at the bow. I don't like the look of the tapering when it is tapered down to a point. with practice it does become easier. good luck. Hi Karl. Thanks for all that info. It is greatly appreciated. And I will refer back to your post as I go about tapering the planks. While I've taken in what you have put in post, as it is new to me I'll need to re-read as I go. Tapering starts for me on plank five down on Monday after thumb plane arrives. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Hi George A pin pusher may be a better option than juggling you hull ,pin and hammer. The pin is inserted into the pusher and you line it up with your hole and push home, although some people do not like using them it free's up hands when used. I have added a link to CMB so you can get an idea of what a pusher/nailer looks like. http://www.cornwallmodel...rs%2ehtml%23a8175#a8175
Regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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Hi George...Our fellow forum members seemed to have covered most bases concerning plank tapering...as for the knotted wood, I always ensured that the part with the knot was confined to the end more likely used for scrap. But some times you are forced to use knotted strakes so ensure that these strakes will be in areas below where you think there will be no cutting needed...Most of my strakes were knotted and it was the case of grading them..good, bad and un-useable. The planks with the side ways bend in them no problem, just use the ones with the bend where they match the upward curvature of the decking. And as for the pre drilling of the planks...I found that this was a must as the planks will almost always split! I found it very very useful to use bull clips to hold the planking in place while working on them..I think that post number 89 on my build diary will give you a rough idea..lots of us use them..I forget who's idea the use of bull clips was but you will find them invaluable!! Keep up the great work mate...  Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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arpurchase wrote: Hi George A pin pusher may be a better option than juggling you hull ,pin and hammer. The pin is inserted into the pusher and you line it up with your hole and push home, although some people do not like using them it free's up hands when used. I have added a link to CMB so you can get an idea of what a pusher/nailer looks like. http://www.cornwallmodel...rs%2ehtml%23a8175#a8175
Regards Andy Hi Andy. Thanks for the help. It is as always greatly appreciated. Yes I did consider a pin pusher would be handy when I was facing the problem. Seen them previously on some builders posts. Would you believe I tried to purchase a pin pusher even with the description of what it looked like to several mobs like JCAR, Bunnings, Ace Models, etc., and all they could show me was "nail punches". Same problem in trying to get a contour gauge for making a cradle. Everything but! Dozens of gauges, but no contour types. I will keep trying to purchase both items. Can get from Ebay, but don't really like dealing with them. Burned before.  Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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jonny7england wrote:Hi George...Our fellow forum members seemed to have covered most bases concerning plank tapering...as for the knotted wood, I always ensured that the part with the knot was confined to the end more likely used for scrap. But some times you are forced to use knotted strakes so ensure that these strakes will be in areas below where you think there will be no cutting needed...Most of my strakes were knotted and it was the case of grading them..good, bad and un-useable. The planks with the side ways bend in them no problem, just use the ones with the bend where they match the upward curvature of the decking. And as for the pre drilling of the planks...I found that this was a must as the planks will almost always split! I found it very very useful to use bull clips to hold the planking in place while working on them..I think that post number 89 on my build diary will give you a rough idea..lots of us use them..I forget who's idea the use of bull clips was but you will find them invaluable!! Keep up the great work mate... Hi Jonny. Thanks heaps for the info. It is as always greatly appreciated. I will certainly check out your build post 89 re "bull clips" Will try to purchase same once I know what they look like. Anything that helps is greatly welcome. It is really great to see all you guys come in and do your best to help re my queries. It is more than just appreciated. Regards George. Building HMS SOTS
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hi George Like you, I've got the first 4 rows each side in, and also found, like you, that the bamboo planks are very knotty. I select the best ones for the curvature on the bow and where possible use the knotty ones where they will be cut off on the ends. (I think MWG had the best idea and chucked all the bamboo in the bin...  - kidding of course, this is a really good challenge for me.) My method is to pre drill every pin nail hole using a very dinky drill bit in a pin vice. The drill size is a 71 from a set of 20 sizes 61 to 80. I have no idea what these sizes are but using trial and error found the 71 best for a firm fit of the pin nail. (I don't own a Vernier caliper gauge, so I can't measure them). I then tap all the pin nails in the holes BEFORE I fit the plank, so only the tips are just showing. This way you can fit the plank with the work on your lap and use the pin hammer and/or pin driver as required. I am quite happy with my result so far, will post pics later this month. Regards JohnP
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/03/2011 Posts: 65 Points: 187 Location: Bendigo Australia
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These are number drills the sizes here is a link http://7id.xray.aps.anl....ables/number_drill.html
Previous builds Bounty, Cutty Sark, Red Baron Triplane, Bismark,Titanic,Endeavour http://jockspage.webs.com/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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G'day again George I just noticed your tooling supply problem. Advising: I ordered my pin pusher from Stanbridges. Took a fortnight and they mailed it to me FOC. My contour gauge was purchased in Bunnings. Mandurah branch had only the one in stock but you should have better luck in Perth. I have ordered a mini planer from Float-a-Boat. I'll probably get that in a week or so. Hope this helps mate. Regards JohnP
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi Jock. Thanks for the input on the numbered drills. It's appreciated. I purchased a pack of mini drills. Biggest problem getting chucks to take the smallest ones. At the moment I'm using one just a fraction oversize but not going right through the plank, just enough to guide nail so nail will grip the plank on the way into ribs. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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John Passmore wrote:G'day again George I just noticed your tooling supply problem. Advising: I ordered my pin pusher from Stanbridges. Took a fortnight and they mailed it to me FOC. My contour gauge was purchased in Bunnings. Mandurah branch had only the one in stock but you should have better luck in Perth. I have ordered a mini planer from Float-a-Boat. I'll probably get that in a week or so. Hope this helps mate. Regards JohnP Hi John. Thanks for the info re pin pusher and contour gauge. It's appreciated. I'll contact Stanbridges and see if they'll send me a pin pusher. As for the contour gauge; Midland Bunnings didn't know what I was talking about. Said they'd never heard of one. I'll try an Auto Supply as same thing used for metals and engineering as well as timber. My Mini Planer arrives today. (Monday). Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Issue 18 now done as per mag instructions. First pic; 5th plank tapered at bow. Second pic; Planking on bottom of hull x 3 as per instructions. Third pic; Bending and twisting planks at stern. Top plank 6 mm down at end of stern, Third plank 1.5 mm down from second plank. All per mag instructions. Have re-clamped Stern end planks to harden glue overnight. Will sand rough looking infill before getting there with planking.    Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Hi George, think we can safely say you have now started the build process in earnest with the planking..... Biggest piece of advice I would give on planking is always to let the planks lay where the want to go, don't be tempted to force them into position... For the first layer, the use of tapered pieces and wedges will fill in any gaps that may appear..... Keep up the great work, will be following as usual..... Well done..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Nice work George, coming along really nicely Steve
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Gandale wrote:Hi George, think we can safely say you have now started the build process in earnest with the planking..... Biggest piece of advice I would give on planking is always to let the planks lay where the want to go, don't be tempted to force them into position... For the first layer, the use of tapered pieces and wedges will fill in any gaps that may appear..... Keep up the great work, will be following as usual..... Well done..... Regards Alan Hi Alan. Thanks for looking in and your kind comments. As always greatly appreciated. I will certainly take your advice on planks not being forced into positions. Luckily as the first layer and as a Newbie it will certainly make this first layer easier considering my inexperience. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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stevie_o wrote:Nice work George, coming along really nicely Steve Hi Steve. Appreciate you looking in and your kind comments. I actually found it enjoyable once a few planks were laid and started to see effect. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2014 Posts: 149 Points: 456 Location: Forest Lake QLD
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Good to see your progress report George. A mighty effort I'd say. Brex.
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