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 Rank: Newbie Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 08/08/2010 Posts: 3 Points: 9 Location: uk
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Thanks for your encouragement piot007, but as I said, enough is enough.
I want this lower deck planked!The planks should be supplied...flat (forgive the pun),outright,no quibble!
If I have to wait to match planks with later issues, then the job gets stalled...with a part issue build like this,generally when you stall, it ends up on your shelf and you simply don't get back to it.
WHY SHOULD I BUY PLANKS AND ADD MORE COST TO THIS MODEL!!!!
It's not only this...It's other aspects of shortchanging we're getting from DeaG...
One of the biggest issues was the copper bottom....it should be provided, and not as an extra. The cannons...A cheap metal casting painted black, when the model advertised clearly shows BRASS CANNONS !!!!! Wrong size brass rod for the cannon axles, size provided is too small! The crap brass grating sheet for the Launch, totally inaccurate. And it goes on, and on, and on............
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rivergypsy wrote:CMB wrote:I now know why admin did not answer my original question regarding the planking for the cut-out section. I still feel that it is/was a valid point. Perhaps if he had done so we would have avoided to-days comment from Kan, as information, be it good or not so good is better than nothing. Now, like Kan, I feel that that we may be in for a many more disappointing features or lack of them as the case may be and this cannot be good for the overall morale of our modellers, especially people like myself who have never built anything like this before. Using a pencil to simulate planking is an insult to modellers of any standard when they are investing in a model of this size and cost, painting would have been a better option. I will now have wait until the deck planking arrives and then purchase more in order that I can add planking to the cut-out section to maintain the quality of build that the model deserves. May I respectfully suggest that Admin answers any future valid build questions quickly and honestly and just maybe we can avoid any more negative comments. Rant over but if you are out there Admin please advise what planking is being supplied so I do not have to wait to long before I can continue my build. Yo dude...scale modelling is a concept that frequently escapes the novice builders but is exactly what it suggests in the title...recreating someting to a scale -effectively a visual- representaion of the actual thing albeit when viewed from the same distance as your model. On such a basis using pencil lines to represent planking isn't an insult, it instead offers you far more personal control over the visual/scale effect on your model than the wood supplied to create the same effect. How does that figure? Well in truth if you were view the real deck planks of Victory from a distance equal in size to that of your model, then you simply wouldn't be able to see them. Expanding upon this idea, draw a one millimetre wide line on the deck of your model and it of course represents 84 millimetres on the real thing. Press the lead of your pencil hard on the ply and you've obviously created the distinct visual impression of individual planks. The results of your heavy handed application of lead, however, would mean that in reality Nelson would have fallen into the gaps your pencil lines represent on the real ship...so how real and and how scale is that. The short answer is...it isn't, not at all!! The magazine does actually -although feetingly- touched upon this concept in issue 15 when covering the copper plating on Victories hull. I'd go with the pencil line representation dude, think scale as you proceed and consequently keep them subtle to the point of being almost invisible unless you look very hard at the finished thing. That is then touching upon the concept of scale representaion. Rivergypsy. Hi Rivergypsy, Thanks for the detailed and no doubt technically correct reply to my comments in my previous post, I had not as you so rightly stated perceived scale in the way you describe. I gather from your detailed comments and fine attention to detail that you will not be using the deck planking that will be supplied at a later stage in the build as you will prefer to represent the planking far more accurately with a fine pencil line. Also I presume you will not be replicating the rigging as that would certainly not be visible from a distance equal in size to that of the completed model. Please feel at liberty to send your unwanted planking strips and rigging components to me as my perception of model building is to recreate and actually construct as closely as possible a three dimensional miniature replica of the original, and demonstrate a degree of craftsmanship using similar methods and materials as those used on the original craft. This definition to my mind includes replicating even the smallest detail (rigging) in fine thread and testing the skill and dexterity of the builder. The word novice describes a person without experience or a beginner. At 70yrs. plus I do not consider myself as either of the above definitions. This is as already stated in my previous posts my first wooden ship build, but I have in the distant past built a number of model planes and gliders, all of which required good attention to detail in order that they would fly without the use of any engine power. Now back to the build and price up some Tanganyka Strip. Happy Building to you all. CMB
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I have to agree with Davey, as much as I am really enjoying this my first wooden ship build, and have no intention whatsoever of stopping it, I am a little disappointed that the materials supplied are not the same as the ones advertised; mainly the cannons which I am really not satisfied with despite my attempts to improve it. Funnily enough I emailed Deag last night in regard to the brass cannons in the photos, and asked if they stock them online or something. I have noticed that Cornwall models have a selection, so I inquired about them also. Dont get me wrong, I am thrilled to bits with the way my model is progressing, but it is just a little frustrating when you see all of the highly detailed photos of the excellent craftsmanship and high quality material used for the photos, and then get supplied with materials that are clearly different - the cannons are the perfect example. However, given the length of this subscription, I am quite happy to accept that and buy better materials as and when needed, such as the tanganyka I bought yesterday for the planking. Now I just need to fulfill my original pledge to replace this subscription from my smoking habit, when did this build start again?!
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
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Hi Thomas
I'm not defending the cannons supplied but I am wondering why you want brass cannon. The canon on board Victory were iron guns and were painted black with tar/paint mixture in order to prevent rusting. Bright shiny canon whilst asthetically pleasing are hardly authentic.
I know everybody has their own views, I'm just offering mine for consideration
Mike T
BTW I am currently rigging the cannon which came with my HMS Halifax kit and, yes, I have left them with brass barrels because I'm doing the ship in a wooden finish and not painting her. The guns on Halifax were only small calibre (3 pounders) and as such may well have been brass.
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Hi Mike, I agree that it is not as accurate, but I prefer brass to be honest. I think it would look nicer with the wooden finish I am going for! Cheers, Tom
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CMB wrote:rivergypsy wrote:CMB wrote:I now know why admin did not answer my original question regarding the planking for the cut-out section. I still feel that it is/was a valid point. Perhaps if he had done so we would have avoided to-days comment from Kan, as information, be it good or not so good is better than nothing. Now, like Kan, I feel that that we may be in for a many more disappointing features or lack of them as the case may be and this cannot be good for the overall morale of our modellers, especially people like myself who have never built anything like this before. Using a pencil to simulate planking is an insult to modellers of any standard when they are investing in a model of this size and cost, painting would have been a better option. I will now have wait until the deck planking arrives and then purchase more in order that I can add planking to the cut-out section to maintain the quality of build that the model deserves. May I respectfully suggest that Admin answers any future valid build questions quickly and honestly and just maybe we can avoid any more negative comments. Rant over but if you are out there Admin please advise what planking is being supplied so I do not have to wait to long before I can continue my build. Yo dude...scale modelling is a concept that frequently escapes the novice builders but is exactly what it suggests in the title...recreating someting to a scale -effectively a visual- representaion of the actual thing albeit when viewed from the same distance as your model. On such a basis using pencil lines to represent planking isn't an insult, it instead offers you far more personal control over the visual/scale effect on your model than the wood supplied to create the same effect. How does that figure? Well in truth if you were view the real deck planks of Victory from a distance equal in size to that of your model, then you simply wouldn't be able to see them. Expanding upon this idea, draw a one millimetre wide line on the deck of your model and it of course represents 84 millimetres on the real thing. Press the lead of your pencil hard on the ply and you've obviously created the distinct visual impression of individual planks. The results of your heavy handed application of lead, however, would mean that in reality Nelson would have fallen into the gaps your pencil lines represent on the real ship...so how real and and how scale is that. The short answer is...it isn't, not at all!! The magazine does actually -although feetingly- touched upon this concept in issue 15 when covering the copper plating on Victories hull. I'd go with the pencil line representation dude, think scale as you proceed and consequently keep them subtle to the point of being almost invisible unless you look very hard at the finished thing. That is then touching upon the concept of scale representaion. Rivergypsy. Hi Rivergypsy, Thanks for the detailed and no doubt technically correct reply to my comments in my previous post, I had not as you so rightly stated perceived scale in the way you describe. I gather from your detailed comments and fine attention to detail that you will not be using the deck planking that will be supplied at a later stage in the build as you will prefer to represent the planking far more accurately with a fine pencil line. Also I presume you will not be replicating the rigging as that would certainly not be visible from a distance equal in size to that of the completed model. Please feel at liberty to send your unwanted planking strips and rigging components to me as my perception of model building is to recreate and actually construct as closely as possible a three dimensional miniature replica of the original, and demonstrate a degree of craftsmanship using similar methods and materials as those used on the original craft. This definition to my mind includes replicating even the smallest detail (rigging) in fine thread and testing the skill and dexterity of the builder. The word novice describes a person without experience or a beginner. At 70yrs. plus I do not consider myself as either of the above definitions. This is as already stated in my previous posts my first wooden ship build, but I have in the distant past built a number of model planes and gliders, all of which required good attention to detail in order that they would fly without the use of any engine power. Now back to the build and price up some Tanganyka Strip. Happy Building to you all. CMB Sorry CMB, I hadn't clocked your previous comments and thus took your latest about never having built anything like this before to suggest that -like a few others on this forum- modelling in wood was in fact a totally new venture for you. My mistake therefore, and one that I hope you will forgive me for making. Your comments concerning rigging and planking are interesting and do (irrespective of the subtly sarcastic undertones)in fact represent the crux of an ongoing debate/issue within modelling circles...where and when during construction of any(static) model based upon an actual object (past or currently still existing)do you trade visual representation for scale representation. Outside of obvious factors such as available time and or level of ability, is there any viable reason why (and I'm simply playing devils advocate here) pencil lines shouldn't in fact be recommended as a means of represent deck planking on the Victory? Make an error with a pencil and you can rub it out and start over. Glue a wooden plank in place and get it wrong and you have complications thereafter. Just a few thoughts for an interesting and age old modelling debate perhaps...or maybe it simply all boils down to whatever floats your boat. Enjoy your Tanganyka wood dude Rivergypsy
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rivergypsy wrote:CMB wrote:rivergypsy wrote:CMB wrote:I now know why admin did not answer my original question regarding the planking for the cut-out section. I still feel that it is/was a valid point. Perhaps if he had done so we would have avoided to-days comment from Kan, as information, be it good or not so good is better than nothing. Now, like Kan, I feel that that we may be in for a many more disappointing features or lack of them as the case may be and this cannot be good for the overall morale of our modellers, especially people like myself who have never built anything like this before. Using a pencil to simulate planking is an insult to modellers of any standard when they are investing in a model of this size and cost, painting would have been a better option. I will now have wait until the deck planking arrives and then purchase more in order that I can add planking to the cut-out section to maintain the quality of build that the model deserves. May I respectfully suggest that Admin answers any future valid build questions quickly and honestly and just maybe we can avoid any more negative comments. Rant over but if you are out there Admin please advise what planking is being supplied so I do not have to wait to long before I can continue my build. Yo dude...scale modelling is a concept that frequently escapes the novice builders but is exactly what it suggests in the title...recreating someting to a scale -effectively a visual- representaion of the actual thing albeit when viewed from the same distance as your model. On such a basis using pencil lines to represent planking isn't an insult, it instead offers you far more personal control over the visual/scale effect on your model than the wood supplied to create the same effect. How does that figure? Well in truth if you were view the real deck planks of Victory from a distance equal in size to that of your model, then you simply wouldn't be able to see them. Expanding upon this idea, draw a one millimetre wide line on the deck of your model and it of course represents 84 millimetres on the real thing. Press the lead of your pencil hard on the ply and you've obviously created the distinct visual impression of individual planks. The results of your heavy handed application of lead, however, would mean that in reality Nelson would have fallen into the gaps your pencil lines represent on the real ship...so how real and and how scale is that. The short answer is...it isn't, not at all!! The magazine does actually -although feetingly- touched upon this concept in issue 15 when covering the copper plating on Victories hull. I'd go with the pencil line representation dude, think scale as you proceed and consequently keep them subtle to the point of being almost invisible unless you look very hard at the finished thing. That is then touching upon the concept of scale representaion. Rivergypsy. Hi Rivergypsy, Thanks for the detailed and no doubt technically correct reply to my comments in my previous post, I had not as you so rightly stated perceived scale in the way you describe. I gather from your detailed comments and fine attention to detail that you will not be using the deck planking that will be supplied at a later stage in the build as you will prefer to represent the planking far more accurately with a fine pencil line. Also I presume you will not be replicating the rigging as that would certainly not be visible from a distance equal in size to that of the completed model. Please feel at liberty to send your unwanted planking strips and rigging components to me as my perception of model building is to recreate and actually construct as closely as possible a three dimensional miniature replica of the original, and demonstrate a degree of craftsmanship using similar methods and materials as those used on the original craft. This definition to my mind includes replicating even the smallest detail (rigging) in fine thread and testing the skill and dexterity of the builder. The word novice describes a person without experience or a beginner. At 70yrs. plus I do not consider myself as either of the above definitions. This is as already stated in my previous posts my first wooden ship build, but I have in the distant past built a number of model planes and gliders, all of which required good attention to detail in order that they would fly without the use of any engine power. Now back to the build and price up some Tanganyka Strip. Happy Building to you all. CMB Sorry CMB, I hadn't clocked your previous comments and thus took your latest about never having built anything like this before to suggest that -like a few others on this forum- modelling in wood was in fact a totally new venture for you. My mistake therefore, and one that I hope you will forgive me for making. Your comments concerning rigging and planking are interesting and do (irrespective of the subtly sarcastic undertones)in fact represent the crux of an ongoing debate/issue within modelling circles...where and when during construction of any(static) model based upon an actual object (past or currently still existing)do you trade visual representation for scale representation. Outside of obvious factors such as available time and or level of ability, is there any viable reason why (and I'm simply playing devils advocate here) pencil lines shouldn't in fact be recommended as a means of represent deck planking on the Victory? Make an error with a pencil and you can rub it out and start over. Glue a wooden plank in place and get it wrong and you have complications thereafter. Just a few thoughts for an interesting and age old modelling debate perhaps...or maybe it simply all boils down to whatever floats your boat. Enjoy your Tanganyka wood dude Rivergypsy No offense taken,I enjoyed the exchange of ideas and as you say "whatever floats your boat" CMB
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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CMB wrote:rivergypsy wrote:CMB wrote:rivergypsy wrote:CMB wrote:I now know why admin did not answer my original question regarding the planking for the cut-out section. I still feel that it is/was a valid point. Perhaps if he had done so we would have avoided to-days comment from Kan, as information, be it good or not so good is better than nothing. Now, like Kan, I feel that that we may be in for a many more disappointing features or lack of them as the case may be and this cannot be good for the overall morale of our modellers, especially people like myself who have never built anything like this before. Using a pencil to simulate planking is an insult to modellers of any standard when they are investing in a model of this size and cost, painting would have been a better option. I will now have wait until the deck planking arrives and then purchase more in order that I can add planking to the cut-out section to maintain the quality of build that the model deserves. May I respectfully suggest that Admin answers any future valid build questions quickly and honestly and just maybe we can avoid any more negative comments. Rant over but if you are out there Admin please advise what planking is being supplied so I do not have to wait to long before I can continue my build. Yo dude...scale modelling is a concept that frequently escapes the novice builders but is exactly what it suggests in the title...recreating someting to a scale -effectively a visual- representaion of the actual thing albeit when viewed from the same distance as your model. On such a basis using pencil lines to represent planking isn't an insult, it instead offers you far more personal control over the visual/scale effect on your model than the wood supplied to create the same effect. How does that figure? Well in truth if you were view the real deck planks of Victory from a distance equal in size to that of your model, then you simply wouldn't be able to see them. Expanding upon this idea, draw a one millimetre wide line on the deck of your model and it of course represents 84 millimetres on the real thing. Press the lead of your pencil hard on the ply and you've obviously created the distinct visual impression of individual planks. The results of your heavy handed application of lead, however, would mean that in reality Nelson would have fallen into the gaps your pencil lines represent on the real ship...so how real and and how scale is that. The short answer is...it isn't, not at all!! The magazine does actually -although feetingly- touched upon this concept in issue 15 when covering the copper plating on Victories hull. I'd go with the pencil line representation dude, think scale as you proceed and consequently keep them subtle to the point of being almost invisible unless you look very hard at the finished thing. That is then touching upon the concept of scale representaion. Rivergypsy. Hi Rivergypsy, Thanks for the detailed and no doubt technically correct reply to my comments in my previous post, I had not as you so rightly stated perceived scale in the way you describe. I gather from your detailed comments and fine attention to detail that you will not be using the deck planking that will be supplied at a later stage in the build as you will prefer to represent the planking far more accurately with a fine pencil line. Also I presume you will not be replicating the rigging as that would certainly not be visible from a distance equal in size to that of the completed model. Please feel at liberty to send your unwanted planking strips and rigging components to me as my perception of model building is to recreate and actually construct as closely as possible a three dimensional miniature replica of the original, and demonstrate a degree of craftsmanship using similar methods and materials as those used on the original craft. This definition to my mind includes replicating even the smallest detail (rigging) in fine thread and testing the skill and dexterity of the builder. The word novice describes a person without experience or a beginner. At 70yrs. plus I do not consider myself as either of the above definitions. This is as already stated in my previous posts my first wooden ship build, but I have in the distant past built a number of model planes and gliders, all of which required good attention to detail in order that they would fly without the use of any engine power. Now back to the build and price up some Tanganyka Strip. Happy Building to you all. CMB Sorry CMB, I hadn't clocked your previous comments and thus took your latest about never having built anything like this before to suggest that -like a few others on this forum- modelling in wood was in fact a totally new venture for you. My mistake therefore, and one that I hope you will forgive me for making. Your comments concerning rigging and planking are interesting and do (irrespective of the subtly sarcastic undertones)in fact represent the crux of an ongoing debate/issue within modelling circles...where and when during construction of any(static) model based upon an actual object (past or currently still existing)do you trade visual representation for scale representation. Outside of obvious factors such as available time and or level of ability, is there any viable reason why (and I'm simply playing devils advocate here) pencil lines shouldn't in fact be recommended as a means of represent deck planking on the Victory? Make an error with a pencil and you can rub it out and start over. Glue a wooden plank in place and get it wrong and you have complications thereafter. Just a few thoughts for an interesting and age old modelling debate perhaps...or maybe it simply all boils down to whatever floats your boat. Enjoy your Tanganyka wood dude Rivergypsy No offense taken,I enjoyed the exchange of ideas and as you say "whatever floats your boat" CMB Nice one guys, how good to see an adult discussion and 2 modellers opinions without boxing gloves, on or off!!!  It was very nice to read this post and get the points from both.  As a complete novice to wooden builds, it certainly made me look more closely at the options available to me, and will make my build look better and more fun to complete.  I doft my hat to you both in respect!!
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Yo Jack, In truth this is my first venture into timber modelling as well dude. I come from a 'plastic fantastic' background of building straight from the box to then taking the very rocky road of ultimate scale perfection via 'scratch building'. I'm finding timber modelling a new kind of challenge,however,even with some thirty odd years of experience as a carpenter behind me! Like CMB though, you pick up a few tricks along the way and as a result often explore different methods of achieving the same results such as pencil lines representing deck planks or Tanganyka wood for example. Part of the pleasure of modelling -with any medium- is often experimenting with something else that might work in order to achieve the desired (or perhaps a superior)result. I often think the ultimate exponents of this art are perhaps railway modellers because some of these guys employ some very ulikely materials in order to create some absolutely stunning scenes and landscapes. May your keel remain straight and true Jack Rivergypsy. Nice one guys, how good to see an adult discussion and 2 modellers opinions without boxing gloves, on or off!!!  It was very nice to read this post and get the points from both.  As a complete novice to wooden builds, it certainly made me look more closely at the options available to me, and will make my build look better and more fun to complete.  I doft my hat to you both in respect!!  [/quote]
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axle396 wrote:Have to admit I'm a tad disappointed that we are supposed to draw the decking in the cutaway section with a pencil and rule. I will probably buy some strips of wood to do it properly, but I really think this should have been included in the build. I've not complained about the copper being an extra or anything else, but a few strips of wood ?  Brings to mind the expression "spoiling the ship for a lick of tar". Before anyone has a go about people moaning, I'm not. I love the build, this is just an observation that sounds like a moan. No one has mentioned this yet but I think theres a big clue at the post title !! ""part 19 "simulated decking""" Happy Building, Russ On the workbench: My Victory Build Diary - Victory Cross Section Build Diary - Black Pearl Build DiaryUnder the Bench: Millenium Falcon, Black Pearl x 2, Coral Victory Cross Section, De Lorean
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Found this in the Ask Admin bit, Have a look at this link guys, Dioramas !!!! admin wrote:Hi CMB
Apologies for the delay in replying. The decks in the cutaway area are left plain for now. Later in the series we will provide material to make a diorama, including the guns and gun crews, which will be constructed on a thin planked section outside of the model (extra planking is provided for this). The completed diorama can then be slid into the cutaway section and glued in place. This will neatly trim any small gaps between the external planking and the interior decks.
We selected this method to avoid the very fiddly job of trying to assembly the diorama inside the cutaway section. It also allows modellers who do not want to have a cutaway to construct the gun decks as stand-alone dioramas that can be displayed alongside their Victory.
Thanks Admin http://forum.model-space...t.aspx?g=posts&t=963Happy Building, Russ On the workbench: My Victory Build Diary - Victory Cross Section Build Diary - Black Pearl Build DiaryUnder the Bench: Millenium Falcon, Black Pearl x 2, Coral Victory Cross Section, De Lorean
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Hi Davey, Picking up the thread of this conversation I'm going to offer a couple of personal -albeit cynical- views in so much as DeAg' have possibly produced this kit to a price dictated by potential/projected profit margins in what is undoubtedly a decidely limited market. They did what everyone else with something to sell would do...advertise it large and give it even larger licks, display a prototype built to perfection by a highly skilled and professional team of model makers and -hopefully-watch the orders roll in for a product that ultimately uses cheaper to produce options wherever possible thereafter (and which of course will be fully justified in the obligatory legal smallprint somewhere). I guess the only way to look at this is that Victory is no different from a lot of other kits out there-be they wood, plastic or whatever- in that they serve more as a basis upon which you the modeller then have to modify and improve. The probability is that DeAg' will have factored this aspect into their own market research anyway and consequently 'traded' on it. I wouldn't be too surprise if they've also consider the fact that once you've committed your hard earned dosh to the project, the chances are you'll see it through irrespective of its faults if you're a serious enough modeller and therefore simply live with such niggles as highlighted on this forum. Just, as I said, a couple of personal thoughts. Rivergypsy. DaveyB wrote: Thanks for your encouragement piot007, but as I said, enough is enough.
I want this lower deck planked!The planks should be supplied...flat (forgive the pun),outright,no quibble!
If I have to wait to match planks with later issues, then the job gets stalled...with a part issue build like this,generally when you stall, it ends up on your shelf and you simply don't get back to it.
WHY SHOULD I BUY PLANKS AND ADD MORE COST TO THIS MODEL!!!!
It's not only this...It's other aspects of shortchanging we're getting from DeaG...
One of the biggest issues was the copper bottom....it should be provided, and not as an extra. The cannons...A cheap metal casting painted black, when the model advertised clearly shows BRASS CANNONS !!!!! Wrong size brass rod for the cannon axles, size provided is too small! The crap brass grating sheet for the Launch, totally inaccurate. And it goes on, and on, and on............
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magpie1832 wrote:Boaz wrote:What is the benefit of using Tanganyka? I'm using Tanganyka wood as I think it looks nicer than Basswood which A/L tend too use on all there models and the Jotika Victory also uses Tanganyka on their Kit. P.S Are you off too Rhyl today they got Mini Airshow today.(Red Arrows etc) I'm leaving in 1 hour lol. See the motherinlaw in Colwyn bay while there. ...[/size] How was the Bay & Rhyl? Did you have your body armour on? Bob
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Good Morning everyone To be honest, I think allot of us might be jumping the gun, and thinking the worst before we see the whole picture? while I agree, there should be more information regarding why this or that method is going to be used, I can see why they might have chosen this method, are we going to be able to see enough of it to warrant that extra detail? I can also see some of your points of view, that you will know it's there, and that due to cost, you should have access to the best materials available, but I know of a few models that use this pencil line simulated decking, while I dont really agree with it, if done correctly, you can achieve some pretty good results, for example, there is a guy at my local model club, who used a soft dark brown pencil to simulate his decking (OMG I'm getting old, I cant for the life of me remember the ship) but the finished results were well impressive, I will try and get some pictures if he is willing. I'm just going to see how it all pans out, and choose which method I think best serves my needs, I know you shouldn't have to go out and buy extras, but in some cases, at least then you will be creating a one off model, that will be unique to anyone else's (Just a though) Best wishes David Ship Builds on the go
Yamato - DeAgostini Subscription - Highly Recommend This Model AKAGI - DeAgostini Subscription - Highly Recommend This Model RMS Titanic Lifeboat (Kind Gift from DeAgostini Crew)
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This is my build of the Astrolabe,(so far). The main deck is pencilled on. It's the first time I've had to do this on a wooden build, but it looks pretty good I think. Dave H
Current builds :- Hachette 1/16 Tiger Tank H.M.S Victory, Santisima Trinidad (Section), 1/8 scale Aston Martin DB5, 1/8 scale McLaren, YNWA
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Boaz wrote:How was the Bay & Rhyl? Did you have your body armour on? Bob Hi Boaz, No I had the wife with me she scary enough...Lol.. I having a break in The Bay this weekend going for 4-5 days at the mother in laws.... NOooooooooo... On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Refering to the cannons. Two questions. Do you think we will be getting the 3 different sizes of the 12 pounder (short, medium & long)which are on the upper & weather decks? How difficult would it be to re hash the build to be able to fit full cannons rather than the dummies?
Bob
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Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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Boaz wrote:Refering to the cannons. Two questions. Do you think we will be getting the 3 different sizes of the 12 pounder (short, medium & long)which are on the upper & weather decks? How difficult would it be to re hash the build to be able to fit full cannons rather than the dummies?
Bob Hi Bob To answer your first question, the difference in overall length between a long and medium barrel is approx 3mm to our scale and the same again between medium and short. Are you sure that this would be noticeable? To answer your second, I'm assuming that dummy cannon will only be fitted on the gundecks which are enclosed from above, so all you would see in practice are the barrels sticking out the gun ports. Those are my thoughts, I'm sure others might have different views Mike T
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