Hi John.

There is another way some have used re caulking decking and that is to mix your pva with black paint and automatically look black between the deck planking. You can still use thin cardboard to keep planks just a smidgin apart for effect. I don't know how effective it would be but thought I'd pass it on to you as a possible method.

Regards

George.

Scale wise most of the methods produce over size chalking. I prefer to use a 4B or 5B pencil to run along the edge, when completed leaves a thin grayish black line

Hi John, An interesting and enjoyable discussion on the caulking. A good range of ideas. I found marking the edges of the carpenters pencil effective although tedious. I found that a narrow rut in the carbon allowed the edge of plank to track although I sometimes wondered if a softer carbon would be more appropriate ie 2B as a opposed to HB etc.
I also liked Alan's suggestion about the caulking and the use of Danish Oil to highlight the caulk look.

As an experiment I used a permanent black market pen as an alternate applicator but found it less easier to control and its absorption into the grain gave a 'ratty' look.

On a more personal note I did reorder issue 8 because I was disappointed with my efforts with the skiff. This has since arrived and I am now in the process of doing it properly.

Hi All

Progress, July 2014 in pics below;

Hull planking was easier than I anticipated, but I found tapering them was a bit worrisome.

I've done a bit of trial deck planking on the second deck - with a number of different caulking techniques. The black paper looks a bit too "heavy" and is difficult to control when installing. It's shown in the pic below the mast hole. The B pencil method whilst simple to apply, looks a bit scrappy (the section above the mast hole in the pic.) The 0.5mm black thread method is all at the stern end of the deck and looks a lot neater, but is very fiddly. I will do the tree nailing with a B pencil.

I had some bother with the first garboard planks - I didn't cut the bending grooves deep enough and so had to come up with a clamping solution, hence the little screw with washers until the glue cures.

Accidentally broke the top off rib 13 port flush with the deck, , but luckily it broke quite cleanly in an almost perfect slot and keyway configuration so filled the slot up with glue and poked it back in - making sure it's at right angles. The hull planks on one side and dummy cannon support on the other will further reinforce it.

Now the dry dock is redundant I've made a temporary cradle using the previously installed fixing studs. The wing nuts make quick and easy to remove and refit.

Regards
JohnP

Hi John.

All looking very good mate.

See your decking with the black twine looks good.

Great work mate.

Looks like repair job on 13. If you check my thread I had to do repair on one rib as well. It turned out good as new. Just ensure clearance for next deck beam and deck when you brace it.

Regards

George

Wow amazing work john looking very nice

Hi Mr T

Thanks for looking in and the complimentary comment. It's much appreciated coming from an expert...

Regards
JohnP

I John its Eugene

Hi Alan
Thanks for looking in and complimentary comments - much appreciated..

Glad you like my rudimentary cradle - wouldn't pass muster at a cabinet makers' convention but serves purpose in this instance!

You would have noticed several errors in my trial deck planking sequence, but I've not bothered to rectify as I know it will all be enclosed later. I've been considering the finish colour/staining and leaning towards NO stain colour and just a very light sanding to leave the bare boards. In my younger years I was a merchant seaman and one of my first ships was the old Stirling Castle (25,000 tons of oceanic splendour) built by Harland & Wolff Belfast - no air conditioning , no heating but beautiful lines. She had all Teak decks, including the well deck which was completely covered. The planks, (from memory) were about 8 inches wide and caulked (about a 1/4 to 3/8 inches thick) with a black tarry substance. These decks used to be scrubbed regularly by the deck crew with big stiff bristled brooms and big square stones using sea water pumped up through hoses. Then the decks were just left to dry and bleach in the sun. I'm sure that the old sailing ships' decks would have been treated in the same manner and looked very similar...

I made a little jig to assist in cutting/shaping the hull planking. Works well. picture below.