Hi Alan. Thanks for the advice re the matt clear varnish, that's a really good idea and I will take it up...trialling on this deck...

What's a sanding sealer? Is it a liquid or powder? Is it a hardware item?

Regards
JohnP

Ah-ha! Righto Alan I've heard of Shellac... I'm off to the hardware store tomorrow and get some...

Much appreciate the info...

Regards
JohnP

Hi John.

Yes I can see your problem OK.

It has to come down to the glue and clamping to stop that lift. If you don't have the luck with the red or blue top glues then you might need to look at much stronger expoxy types. Your hardware should be able to advise on stronger type glues. Try of course a heavier application first.

While it might sound silly just check your planks have no oil or other substance on them anywhere from storage as that is about the only other reason the glue will not take with clamping if enough glue put on.

Check my last reply my thread re planking overhang.

Regards

George

Hi John, just been catching up on your build and your comments on George's diary.. Your pic highlights the problem you are having very well and it was an area I had similar problems with. I don't believe it is down to the glue you are using, it is down to you not having applied enough of a twist to the planks before fitting. It comes down to trying to force planks where they don't want to go naturally, relying on pins and glue to hold the twist in position. You need to ensure the twist is fully formed before glueing, to do this I held the plank over a steaming kettle and applied the twist. When I was happy with the test fits then I pinned, glued and clamped into position. It is a good thing the planks are popping off now as I think you would rather have this than to have them popping off much later down the line when it would be a lot more difficult to put right. Just for info, I use alphatic PVA and have found it to be more than adequate for the job of planking.... Hope this helps but if you have any queries then simply just ask.... Look forward to seeing your progress...

Regards

Alan

G'day Alan

Thanks for looking in and the excellent advice offered. I just carried out the experiment with steam from the kettle, and as you already know it works a treat - you're a legend Alan - you got me out of a bit of a bind there!...
The test plank is sitting on my desk here - cold now - and with a perfect and permanent 90deg twist in it.

Once again many thanks for your valuable input.

Regards
JohnP

Hi John.

Good to see Alan has come to the rescue again and you are now on the right track.

When you said in post that you had already heat treated, even grooved, I could only think of the glue being the problem.

It shows that different heat treatment like steam is preferable for shaping than ironing/grooving etc.

While I had no trouble in that area I will take note of Alan's advice as well.

Regards

George

Hello Alan

Thank you for taking the time to offer advice and the link which is most appreciated and informative. However, my query is not so much the physical aspect of tapering the planks, but the actual location(s) required for them...ie; midships area of the hull will require more planking depth than the bow or stern areas.

I now have 6 complete rows of bottom planks installed each side, so I was thinking an intermediate tapering (both ends)plank midships is now called for starting at, say, frame 6 and ending at Frame 21...

What do you think Alan - logic or not?...

Regards
JohnP

PS... I've almost run out of planks as the newsagent gave me a second issue 20 instead of issue 21 and I didn't notice until the following week. So this week I received issue 22 (2 cannons only) and have to wait till next week for issue 21

Hi John, it would be really helpful if you could post a few pics of where you are now, that way we can be sure the advice we offer is the best we can give... If I remember correctly, on my build I had no need for the tapering of planks at both ends running along miship area, at least not until later. Let the planks lie where they want to go, don't force them into position, any forcing will just create more problems the further into the planking phase you go..... A few pics would help...

Regards

Alan

Hi John, looks to me like you are doing just fine. The small gaps on the bow can be filled in with wood filler when you come to the sanding stage, larger gaps can be filled with tapered planks... Remember also, everything will be covered up by the second layer so what you are trying to achieve with the first layer is a good smooth flow to the hull and a good grouding ready for the second layer... Link below is to the same area on my build and you will see your's is looking very similar so continue as you are.

http://forum.model-space...sts&t=5013&p=22

Keep following the build instructions and keep a close watch on Mr T's official diary especially from issued 22.

Will be watching to see how you get on....

Regards

Alan

Hi John.

Looking good mate.

Yes you will find that there are a number of tapered planks from bow to stern re hull bottom. I checked Alan's and Tomicks builds counting off planks to see when and where to do. A couple do not go to the bow and finish around rib 5 and 7 to the stern which eventuates in more or less a straighter gap between hull planking and bow to stern planking which is then easier to fill in.

As Alan says These planks are for cover and shape for 2nd lot of planking so as long as you're happy with the final finish a few pointed strakes won't matter.

Does get a little tricky around stern re issues 23-25.I'm gonna' be following Alan and Tomick's build closely.

Re your "Burnisher Query" my thread: You can get from bigger Gun Shops. My son got mine from the Midland Gun Shop, Great Eastern Highway. Don't know name of shop but easy to find in yellow pages under 'Guns or Firearms".

Regards

George