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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/07/2013 Posts: 120 Points: 336 Location: Brisbane Australia
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Hi All, I'm looking for some comments on painting the RB7, when I first started building the RB7 I hadn't considered painting. There has been a lot of discussion and videos on painting but I would like to try and clarify this. Will painting make a big difference to the look of the car, is it worth the effort? Do the decals go on before the clear coat, will this damage the decals. Does Model Space have some instructions on painting. Looking forward to helpful comments.  Chasecar
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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I would certainly not follow the info provided in the video's you talk of as it is misleading in many ways an unoffical.
All of this information will be provided in the instructions for both body types as you need a different type of paint for both types (display & racing body).
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 Rank: Elite       Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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To paint or not to paint is entirely your desicion and as Tomick has said, the OFFICIAL colours and paint information will be available closer the time as and when needed. I've mentioned a few times about the videos being shown on the net and I can't express enough that they are misleading and certainly not done by someone who knows all the facts. As I have said before, anyone that goes down the route and advise shown on these videos, unless it's an official Modelspace one will likely be very unhappy with the outcome. Now to answer your questions.. Certainly the painting will make a difference but depending on skill, how much of a difference is down to the individual who is building the RB7. The racing body is made from Lexan and is clear so the painting will be done to the inside using paints specifically for RC Lexan body's so that the exterior has a gloss finish. A clear coat is best to go on the outside of the display body if you are going to paint it and as long as you use the clear coat that is suggested in the OFFICIAL build diary then this will not damage the Livery provided. Instructions regarding painting the RB7 will be provided nearer the time. Spencer
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/07/2013 Posts: 120 Points: 336 Location: Brisbane Australia
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Hi All, It's great to see that the paint colours were released during the week. And yep, I'm still at a quandary on painting the display body or not.  Having reread Spencer's comments, are you suggesting that a clear coat would be enough to raise the level of finish without having to use a colour coat? Given that the front wings come with pre-applied decals there is no option for them but to use clear (or not). Having never done a build of this quality I just don't know what the finish will look like if left as "plastic" when it could well deserve the extra effort. Keen to hear what others are doing? Regards Bruce Chasecar
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Hi Bruce Not having seen the display body yet I can not personally say if the clear coat will be enough to raise the level of detail but adding a clear coat will certainly improve the finish. As with painting/spraying any model carefull consideration has to go into how you want your finished build to look and perpetration is the key to getting the best results for this. As I have said it is down to personal choice and until you have the parts available to you, only then will you be able to decide what route to take. Spencer
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/07/2013 Posts: 120 Points: 336 Location: Brisbane Australia
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I see the issue of painting has popped up again with one of our guys thinking about using a wax to bring up the final finish. Mr T has suggested perhaps not the best option and a aqueous based clear coat would be better. Throughout a number of posts there has also been concerns raised about the effect the clear coat could have on the different types of decals. I have been able to buy an extra copy of issues 1 and 3 and intend trying the aqueous clear coat and am happy to show the results. I have cut/pasted some notes from the notes Mr T did up on painting the RB7 and will use these for selecting the paint. "A safer alternative would be to airbrush Tamiya X-22 clear as it is aqueous based. Therefore an 'aqueous' clear coat is probably the safest route, such as Mr Hobby B501 which is what we recommended for the MP4/23" Chasecar
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Chasecar wrote:I see the issue of painting has popped up again with one of our guys thinking about using a wax to bring up the final finish. Mr T has suggested perhaps not the best option and a aqueous based clear coat would be better. Throughout a number of posts there has also been concerns raised about the effect the clear coat could have on the different types of decals. I have been able to buy an extra copy of issues 1 and 3 and intend trying the aqueous clear coat and am happy to show the results. I have cut/pasted some notes from the notes Mr T did up on painting the RB7 and will use these for selecting the paint. "A safer alternative would be to airbrush Tamiya X-22 clear as it is aqueous based. Therefore an 'aqueous' clear coat is probably the safest route, such as Mr Hobby B501 which is what we recommended for the MP4/23" Excellent advice  Spencer
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 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2013 Posts: 540 Points: 1,630 Location: England
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As the body parts in the first few issues (front and rear wings) come with decals partially applied these will be a nightmare to paint. If you do not paint those parts and paint the rest of the body those parts will look different. It seems at this point painting was an after thought as none of the decals should of been pre-applied and you should of been warned not to apply any if you intend on painting the body. The colour of the moulded plastic looks ok to me, so I will stick with that and maybe varnish it. Finished 3D Printer, RB7, Hummer, Skyrider drone & Combat tank collection http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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 Rank: Amateur Level 1  Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/04/2013 Posts: 31 Points: 96 Location: Perth Australia
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The display body comes already in the red bull colours. It is only the lexan "race" shell that needs painting as from my understanding that is a clear shell
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/07/2013 Posts: 120 Points: 336 Location: Brisbane Australia
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Hi kenjara, Yes totally agree with your comments on colour painting, and I agonised over this for quite a while. If you did paint the body the colour could end up different to the front wings and that would spoil the look. So I'm only going to use clear coat on the whole of body and wings to give it the same high gloss finish allover. I see you mentioned varnish is that the same as clear coat just a different name? I'm a novice when it comes to paints. Chasecar
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2013 Posts: 540 Points: 1,630 Location: England
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Hi Chasecar, yes varnish and clear coat seem to be used interchangeably. I usually coat my models with humbrol varnish so I am used to calling it that. I think we made need to be careful what product its coated with though as some may eat away at the decals applied. How I usually use varnish with water decals is I apply a coat of gloss varnish then apply the decals (This prevents silvering on the decals). I then apply another coat of gloss varnish after letting the decals seal for a day. Lastly I apply some more layers of either gloss or matt varnish depending on the finish I want. The decals on the RB7 are not water based so I am a bit nervous of how they will be affected. Finished 3D Printer, RB7, Hummer, Skyrider drone & Combat tank collection http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/05/2014 Posts: 45 Points: 141
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Hi Tomick (and all)
I have just completed build 21 and therefore received front body and nose. Like others I need to choose whether to paint or not. Can I ask if display body paint advice is provided in next set of instructions? I have however seen your posts on painting display body ( if prefered) and also the racing body. I have already bought the PS paints for the racing body based on your posts for this. Regarding the display body, I am going to paint mine and just have a couple of questions.
I note you feel the TS53 is a closer match than the TS89 but this is from your posts last year. I just wondered if this is still your view as I have also seen a refererence from another post (not yours I think) where someone is suggesting TS51.
Could you also help me a little with the TS65 clear pearl coat as I am not used to spray paints and note advice that this should be sprayed on wet metalic blue. I would appreciate a little bit more advice on this as fear I might find this difficult and spoil paint job?
You also mention spraying finished body with clear gloss ?T13 (with exception of front/rear wings due to decals) I had initially thought the Pearl coat would provide the sheene necessary for finished pieces, so again would appreciate your advice on this.(ie waht would happen if the pearl coat was sprayed after blue coat had dried?
Lastly, is it the same procedure with Chrome Yellow, ie then clear Pearl
I have found all your Posts extremely helful and informative and I am just trying to understand all options in order to get the best job possible.
I'm sure I will have other questions as things progress.
Regards Phil.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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You'll find that TS-89 is a lot lighter than the pre-painted parts. the two closest matches are TS-35 and TS-51 and is down to personal preference.
Pearl should be a light coat wet on wet, though some modellers apply it over dry, just make sure its light coats to prevent run.
I didn't apply pearl over the yellow as its a solid colour rather than metallic.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/05/2014 Posts: 45 Points: 141
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Hi Tomick,
Many thanks for your speedy & very helpful reply. Just finally, can I ask whether you still reccommend a final gloss coat over the pearl and yellow when dry?
Regards Phil
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/05/2014 Posts: 45 Points: 141
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Hi Tomick,
Just in case any one else queries it, I know you meant Ts53 or Ts51 (not Ts 35) which is green.
Regards Phil.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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I didn't bother as it looked ok as it was. You need to be very careful with the use of Tamiya TS-13 gloss, it can burn decals and also cause paint craze further down the line.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/05/2014 Posts: 45 Points: 141
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Hi Tomick,
I was hoping gloss wouldn't be necessary and won't use it.
Phil.
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