Welcome Guest Search | Active Topics | Log In | Register

about tapering Options
action
#1 Posted : 13 August 2014 09:45:43

Rank: Beginner Level 2

Groups: Registered

Joined: 20/06/2013
Posts: 13
Points: 19
hi guys,

this is my first ever wooden ship i build. i have a question about tapering the hull planks.

what is the reason for tapering?

am i correct that the planks near the bow and the rear need to follow the deck line as much as possible?

the magazine states that each ship is different, and that planks need to be tapered "when it is needed" but doesnt state how we know WHEN it is needed. so i assume i have to constantly watch if a next plank is still in line with the deck?

a little bit of information regarding the thoughts behind tapering would be most welcome!

just starting issue 22 btw, i'm absolutely loving it!
birdaj2
#2 Posted : 13 August 2014 10:20:48

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 31/05/2010
Posts: 5,679
Points: 17,011
Location: Wiltshire
Action

Welcome to the forum. Hope you get a lot of pleasure from your build.

The following link has been posted a few times in the past and provides a very good explanation of the tapering technique as well as details of other key elements of the hull build.

Hope you find it of some use.

http://modelshipworldfor...ingprojectbeginners.pdf

I am sure you will get some further help on this query from some of the more experienced builders on this forum but hopefully this link will give you a few pointers to start you off.

Happy modelling

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
action
#3 Posted : 13 August 2014 10:34:18

Rank: Beginner Level 2

Groups: Registered

Joined: 20/06/2013
Posts: 13
Points: 19
thanks for that! Cool

half of the work on my model so far has been thinking and thinking, reading the mag through to see what the future problems could be etc.

i'm the kind of person that want to be fully informed before even laying a single plank.

i'm just about to lay row 4, and i want to be knowing what i'm doing.
action
#4 Posted : 13 August 2014 10:59:17

Rank: Beginner Level 2

Groups: Registered

Joined: 20/06/2013
Posts: 13
Points: 19
just read the part about tapering, but sadly it doesnt elaborate on reasons for tapering.

it does explain how to taper, ie always taper the top edge of the plank when the hull faces upwards, but that still doesnt explain when a plank needs tapering, and why

i suspect it has something to do with the lower deck line, but i want to be sure

so if anyone can give some more information on this issue, help would be most welcome.
davetwin
#5 Posted : 13 August 2014 11:50:00

Rank: Super-Elite
Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 27/01/2014
Posts: 5,060
Points: 14,980
The way I understand it is that you lay the planks and allow them to fall in position without forcing them too much, where a plank would then naturally overlay another one this is when you taper it so that it lays alongside and doesn't overlay.

So tapering would just depend on how your particular planks fall into position
stevie_o
#6 Posted : 13 August 2014 11:55:57

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
Hi Action, welcome to ModelSpace

If you place a plank at lower deck level in the midships area and mark how many plank widths there are from this position going down to the keel, now do the same at the bow area - you will see that a lot less plank widths are required at the bow and stern.
By tapering the planks by 1 or 2 mm at these areas you are allowing for the same number of planks going forward and to stern. Even then there will still be some occasions where overcrowding at the bow and stern can occur so in these cases you will need take action by using a dropper. These are explained in the magazine at around the stage they may be required.

Hope this helps a bit
Steve
action
#7 Posted : 13 August 2014 12:00:26

Rank: Beginner Level 2

Groups: Registered

Joined: 20/06/2013
Posts: 13
Points: 19
davetwin wrote:
The way I understand it is that you lay the planks and allow them to fall in position without forcing them too much, where a plank would then naturally overlay another one this is when you taper it so that it lays alongside and doesn't overlay.

So tapering would just depend on how your particular planks fall into position


seems fair enough

however this would mean i should taper the plank on the bottom edge of the next proceeding plank, whereas in birdaj's information (general plank tapering) it says a plank should always be tapered at the top side.

however, tapering the top side of a next proceeding plank would obviously not correct any overlays with an underlaying plank

this means i should taper the underlaying plank, on the top side, before i put it on the bulkheads. so i should know in advance the next proceeding plank will overlay the underlaying one.
stevie_o
#8 Posted : 13 August 2014 12:44:15

Rank: Super-Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 30/01/2013
Posts: 4,604
Points: 13,607
Location: Monmouthshire UK
action wrote:
davetwin wrote:
The way I understand it is that you lay the planks and allow them to fall in position without forcing them too much, where a plank would then naturally overlay another one this is when you taper it so that it lays alongside and doesn't overlay.

So tapering would just depend on how your particular planks fall into position


seems fair enough

however this would mean i should taper the plank on the bottom edge of the next proceeding plank, whereas in birdaj's information (general plank tapering) it says a plank should always be tapered at the top side.

however, tapering the top side of a next proceeding plank would obviously not correct any overlays with an underlaying plank

this means i should taper the underlaying plank, on the top side, before i put it on the bulkheads. so i should know in advance the next proceeding plank will overlay the underlaying one.


You always take the taper from the top edge. You take your next plank, butt it against the plank already on the bulkhead, lay it next to the plank toward the bow. At some point it will want to overlap the other plank, make a mark on the new plank - this is where the taper will start.
The planks are tapered on the bench and not whilst fitted.

The method of tapering is explained clearly in the magazines before it becomes an issue.
Hope this helps, easier done than describedBigGrin

Steve
jase
#9 Posted : 13 August 2014 13:56:39

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding buildBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 21/03/2010
Posts: 7,582
Points: 21,739
You will find this link handy in our hints and tips section.

But esential as Steve says midships is wider in the beam than stern or bow so you have to taper to have have continuety of plank line runing the length of the ship. the explanation in the magazine is probably the more simple method and works well for begginers.

http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=5669

Jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
action
#10 Posted : 13 August 2014 14:02:18

Rank: Beginner Level 2

Groups: Registered

Joined: 20/06/2013
Posts: 13
Points: 19
thanks everybody for the great tips and tricks!

i now understand what i am doing, and am more confident now planking further
karl1113
#11 Posted : 13 August 2014 14:52:23

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 04/04/2010
Posts: 3,955
Points: 11,809
Location: uk
hi action,if you take a look at this link, it may help.

http://forum.model-space...posts&t=472&p=28
Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory
Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat.

http://www.model-space.com/gb/
action
#12 Posted : 13 August 2014 14:59:26

Rank: Beginner Level 2

Groups: Registered

Joined: 20/06/2013
Posts: 13
Points: 19
great stuff karl!

i love how you improvise and are able to make improvements to the actual deagostini plans. highly inspirational! compared to my absolute beginner skills, i am in awe at such experience and craftmanship, of so many people on here.

just be warned though that i might stalk you with questions now as i go along Flapper
delboy271155
#13 Posted : 13 August 2014 18:13:24

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds

Joined: 09/11/2012
Posts: 8,520
Points: 24,651
Location: East midlands
Hi Action, BigGrin

Hope you enjoy you`re build. Cool

I think you`ll find that if you have any questions, about anything to do with modelling the answer will be available on this forum.

Happy Building

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2009, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.157 seconds.
DeAgostini