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 Rank: Vice-Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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John Passmore wrote:Hi George Your planking is looking really good and way ahead of mine, which is good because I can pick your brain.  I have 8 bottom planks in (4 each side) and having a bit of trouble keeping the plank stuck flat at the very end of the keel. I pin nail it and clamp it flat against the keel for at least 24 hours after gluing, but when I remove the clamp, the plank gradually lifts up one edge. I know it's caused by the 90deg twist in the plank, so did you have the same problem?  I've tried soaking and steam ironing the plank as well as cutting lots of grooves in it. Can you advise how you overcame this problem? The keel planking on your model looks terrific... Regards JohnP Hi John. First thanks for your compliments they are appreciated mate.  Re your problem. First up I'd say by your description of what's happening re springy planks you need to re-check the glue you're using. After 24 hours and with clamps and still pops tells me it's not much chop. I use PVA ( Selley's Aquadhere, Quick set, Interior). With that PVA you don't need clamps if straight work edge to edge, but with what we have to do re modelling planks I certainly do clamp it. While you obviously put plenty of glue on where plank is going then onto stern just ensure a reasonable amount of glue goes on that stern piece so when you clamp the plank at the end it will force the twist flat and have plenty of glue to hold if you have right glue. Don't clamp too far in later when you get down to start of ribs or will make a depression if front of rib. While you can clamp in further re the first four/five planks I clamp in around 10 mm plus from end of stern once the ribs come into play. With the glue I've described I can unclamp in 8 hours without any lifting. I really hope that helps you John. I can't see any other reason than poor glue to cause the problem. You'll need better glue when you get lower as even more pressure as those ribs come into play. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hi George Yes I'm using Selleys Aquadhere Interior PVA (red top) but I've now got some Exterior (blue top) to see how that goes Maybe I should slap it on a bit thicker!... I'll post a pic on my thread. Regards JohnP
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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John Passmore wrote:Hi George Yes I'm using Selleys Aquadhere Interior PVA (red top) but I've now got some Exterior (blue top) to see how that goes Maybe I should slap it on a bit thicker!... I'll post a pic on my thread. Regards JohnP Hi John. Well if you're using same glue then as you say you might need to put on heavier. Just wipe away the run off after clamping the plank if putting a lot on causes such. Maybe the blue top exterior might be more powerful, I don't really know never having a problem re the red top. Just a small help if I may while you're doing the stern and that is when cutting off overhang later ensure you leave 2 mm overhang as stern post goes into that groove later so requires that 2 mm overhang. Will check your thread when you post pics. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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First results from blackening trial anodized material. Still bright parts where held in pliers for trial.Eyelet needs further work.  Method used because heat important was to hold with pliers and heat with cigarette lighter then while hot spray with isopropyl then rinse in water pat dry then heat up again and drop into burnisher. These results are only after ten minutes in burnisher. Leaving longer may improve. Will need to look at different heat method for 100% coverage without bright parts like cannon barrel supports need to look black overall. Eyelets OK so long as eyelet black rest hidden. Wire being steel blackens easily without problems.  Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Hi George, looks like success to me.... You like to try putting the piece into boiling water for a few minutes after cleaning. From the boiling water straight into the burnishing solution... I've done that a couple of times and been quite successful with it.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Gandale wrote:Hi George, looks like success to me.... You like to try putting the piece into boiling water for a few minutes after cleaning. From the boiling water straight into the burnishing solution... I've done that a couple of times and been quite successful with it.... Regards Alan Hi Alan. I will try your suggestion re the boiling water. It sounds the go to overcome the need for the pliers. It was the cannon supports that I could see needed not to be held by pliers as it would leave bight parts not able to be hidden. In a way while I do understand some modellers would be happy with the brass look re the fittings it's a pity the fittings were anodized and not just plain metal as then burnishing would be a breeze. I have got a URL saved where the guy shows how to make the parts by using metal wire and flat strip. Apparently very handy for hook eyelets in the rigging. However I obviously hoped to do it with the fittings as supplied re the cannons. Regards George. Building HMS SOTS
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George1 wrote:Gandale wrote:Hi George, looks like success to me.... You like to try putting the piece into boiling water for a few minutes after cleaning. From the boiling water straight into the burnishing solution... I've done that a couple of times and been quite successful with it.... Regards Alan Hi Alan. I will try your suggestion re the boiling water. It sounds the go to overcome the need for the pliers. It was the cannon supports that I could see needed not to be held by pliers as it would leave bight parts not able to be hidden. In a way while I do understand some modellers would be happy with the brass look re the fittings it's a pity the fittings were anodized and not just plain metal as then burnishing would be a breeze. I have got a URL saved where the guy shows how to make the parts by using metal wire and flat strip. Apparently very handy for hook eyelets in the rigging. However I obviously hoped to do it with the fittings as supplied re the cannons. Regards George. Hi George, I've just burnished some chains for the chainwales using Krick and the method I've already outlined, must say I'm happy with the results... I would advise anybody to use the parts provided and not make any changes unless they are confident in their ability and knowledge... That said, I did make changes to my build and to some of the supplied parts but at the same time I was willing to take the risk and have a go.... Have to say now I'm pleased with how things have turned out so far.... Down to each individual builder to put their kit together the way they wish but I would advise caution.... Look forward to seeing more from your build.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi Alan. Thanks for looking in and your advice is always welcome and always noted. I'm a little disappointed at the moment  as our issue 22 only had two cannons within and nothing else. No planking which I was really waiting on having checked out "Your Build" at the stage (Stern/Transom supports for planks I already made shaped and glued ready.)and "Tomick's Official Build" all ready to go as soon as issue in my hands. So it was quite a shock just to see two tiny cannons only with the mag especially as not required re the build for over 100 issues at least and expecting planking re official issues 21-25. Although rechecking Official Build does show 2 cannons issue 22.  OK, I've had my moan  so will use up time now waiting on planks in next issue for burnishing the brass ware cannon fittings. Regards George. Building HMS SOTS
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 Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/08/2014 Posts: 19 Points: 57 Location: Cairns
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Nice work George, especially your planking. I just hope I can get mine to that standard. I had a look at Tomicks build diary last night, looks like a few future issues coming with only two cannons. Not too many I hope. I might get bored and actually read the magazine ;) Current Builds:
Sovereign of the Seas
The Black Pearl
Amati Adventure Pirate Ship
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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fredsmit wrote:Nice work George, especially your planking. I just hope I can get mine to that standard.
I had a look at Tomicks build diary last night, looks like a few future issues coming with only two cannons. Not too many I hope. I might get bored and actually read the magazine ;)
Hi Fred. Thanks for looking in and your kind comment. It is appreciated. Looking at what you have done so far I don't think you'll have any problems with the planking. Like some have said prior they found it much easier than planking the launch. As far as issues with cannons in them I don't intend to make the cannons up each time as then they have to be stored away which is a nuisance so other than the burnishing of the anodized fittings and then putting back in plastic packs the cannon carriers can stay in their flat packs till I'm ready. They are easy enough to put together so I'll do a number of them at one time. Roll on Thursday re issue 23 and more planks this time. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2012 Posts: 651 Points: 1,903 Location: croydon
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Hi George. Your planking looks fantastic  . Keep up the great work and i look forward to seeing more . Best regards. Mark
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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George1 wrote:First results from blackening trial anodized material. Still bright parts where held in pliers for trial.Eyelet needs further work. Method used because heat important was to hold with pliers and heat with cigarette lighter then while hot spray with isopropyl then rinse in water pat dry then heat up again and drop into burnisher. These results are only after ten minutes in burnisher. Leaving longer may improve. Will need to look at different heat method for 100% coverage without bright parts like cannon barrel supports need to look black overall. Eyelets OK so long as eyelet black rest hidden. Wire being steel blackens easily without problems. Regards George G'day George That's useful info there mate - thanks very much for posting... I've got some isopropyl but having trouble sourcing burnishing fluid. Would you let me know where you obtained yours?...Looks like another trip to Perth for me.... Regards JohnP
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 Rank: Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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You've been doing a great job there George..Well done mate!!   Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi George, looking good I did notice though that the test eyelet is a little crusty and corroded. I did have this happen to some of mine and found it was down to not washing the solution off straight after in cold water, then dry the parts. The parts really only need to be in the solution for 30-60 secs, any blackening achieved after this time will only rub off anyway. The parts I blackened came out with a satin coat a little like gun bluing. BTW, I used a product called "Blacken-it" so I guess they may all have different properties. Steve
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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mark 2 wrote:Hi George. Your planking looks fantastic . Keep up the great work and i look forward to seeing more . Best regards. Mark Hi Mark. Thanks for looking in and your very kind comments. Greatly appreciated. More once planks arrive. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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John Passmore wrote:George1 wrote:First results from blackening trial anodized material. Still bright parts where held in pliers for trial.Eyelet needs further work. Method used because heat important was to hold with pliers and heat with cigarette lighter then while hot spray with isopropyl then rinse in water pat dry then heat up again and drop into burnisher. These results are only after ten minutes in burnisher. Leaving longer may improve. Will need to look at different heat method for 100% coverage without bright parts like cannon barrel supports need to look black overall. Eyelets OK so long as eyelet black rest hidden. Wire being steel blackens easily without problems. Regards George G'day George That's useful info there mate - thanks very much for posting... I've got some isopropyl but having trouble sourcing burnishing fluid. Would you let me know where you obtained yours?...Looks like another trip to Perth for me.... Regards JohnP Hi John. If you look back in re the "Burnisher" query, you can get from most gun shops. I'm using one that says "Brass Blackener" on label but there are other types probably as good. My Son picked up for me. (Gun Shop In Midland, Great Eastern Highway)Don't know name but look in yellow pages and you should find. Regards George. Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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jonny7england wrote:You've been doing a great job there George..Well done mate!! Hi Jonny. Thanks for looking in and your kind comments. They are as always greatly appreciated. I'm slowly getting there. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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stevie_o wrote:Hi George, looking good I did notice though that the test eyelet is a little crusty and corroded. I did have this happen to some of mine and found it was down to not washing the solution off straight after in cold water, then dry the parts. The parts really only need to be in the solution for 30-60 secs, any blackening achieved after this time will only rub off anyway. The parts I blackened came out with a satin coat a little like gun bluing. BTW, I used a product called "Blacken-it" so I guess they may all have different properties. Steve Hi Steve. Really appreciate you looking in and your tip and comments on burnishing. I'm using a burnisher called "Brass Blackener" from a gun shop. I think they are all much the same by the sounds of it. Yes re the (Crusty Bits) I could see the little bits of anodizing falling off in the burnisher after treatment re the isopropyl especially while still hot. Just a matter of getting more proficient with the outcomes. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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G'day George Finally got hold of some blackeninig fluid from a gun shop in Maddington. Sure enough it's called Gun Blue but actually leaves a nice smooth satiny finish as described by Stevie-o, black or bluey tinge depending on how light shines on it... Got Issue 23 this week (not the missing Issue 21)...  The newsagent doesn't know how long before we see issue 21 so I'll just have to use issue 23 and rely on Mr T's narrative from issue 21, hope there will be enough planks if it transpires issue 21 is a permanent non-shower... Regards JohnP
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John Passmore wrote:G'day George Finally got hold of some blackeninig fluid from a gun shop in Maddington. Sure enough it's called Gun Blue but actually leaves a nice smooth satiny finish as described by Stevie-o, black or bluey tinge depending on how light shines on it... Got Issue 23 this week (not the missing Issue 21)... The newsagent doesn't know how long before we see issue 21 so I'll just have to use issue 23 and rely on Mr T's narrative from issue 21, hope there will be enough planks if it transpires issue 21 is a permanent non-shower... Regards JohnP Hi George/John, Hope issue 21 shows up for you soon.. I can say however, that on completion of the first layer of planking I had a stack of bamboo planks left over, so even if 21 is a no show you should still have enough to complete the hull, providing of course you are not wastefull with the strips..... Hope this puts your mind at ease.... Regards Alan
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