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 Rank: Elite        Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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HLJ is hobbylink japan http://www.hlj.com/scrip...1&MacroType2=detacc
Your builds coming along nicely David and some nice mods your doing too  Spencer
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 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Dave What a brilliant build you have on the go with this one. That is some serious workshop kit you have yourself there  . Hope the rest of your build goes well. Happy modelling Tony Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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 Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/04/2014 Posts: 1,252 Points: 3,662 Location: Essex
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Your right dave, pack 3 is a small one. Looking good though  Senna mclaren mp4/4 build complete mp4/4 build http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=12029
Dodge charger build complete https://forum.deagostini....1686229545.1.1.utmcsr=(direct)|utmccn=(direct)|utmcmd=(none)&__utmv=-&__utmk=9709046
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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Pack 04 is in. Another small one as far as I'm concerned. But one question. In stage 14 "Fitting a rear tire" on pages 110 and 111, does anyone know what those "black sticker strips" are supposed to represent when you wrap them around the parts? If they're hose connections, I would probably get some photoetched, hose clamp items from Autograph Model for more realism.
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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/06/2014 Posts: 2 Points: 6
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I am using ZAP GEL PT-26. It works perfectly for everything on this model.
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/05/2014 Posts: 230 Points: 657 Location: Northeast USA
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Dave: the black adhesive strips are to represent the rubber plumbing connections -the clamps are molded into the piping. To use PE clamps one would have to remove all the molded clamp ends , repaint, find a suitable black tubing and then add the PE clamps. I have to Autograph clamp PE sheet; these a a bit 'fiddly' in that they retain some tension, and the sheet does not include any screw heads, I have used them on the Pocher Aventador and the Wolf Contach, they are worth the effort to fabricate.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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Dave here, long time, no write. Been doing some vacationing. Went to New Orleans for the National WWII Museum. If anyone is interested in WWII, this is a must visit on your bucket list. The past couple of packs haven't had much to do in them. I would finish them in a day or two, then twiddle my thumbs until the next pack. I decided to pick out some of my other models and work on them in between packs. I just finished the 6th pack. I just need to finish sanding the turbo inlet ducts where I can see a joint line. Here are some photos so far. It's starting to look like a Formula One Car. After I post the cars in this reply, I'll show you in the next reply what I'm doing to pass the time until the next pack. davidyat attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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In between packs I'm working on other models. I found this 1/6 scale Browning 50 caliber machine gun with tripod and decided to make a diorama out of it. My best friend has a metal grinding machine shop, Accurate Double Disc. I made the diorama with sand bags and M-16's and made a sign that say's Accurate "Bad Debt" Collection Dept. I gave it to Bill and he has it in his office to intimidate clients if they decide not to pay him. LOL davidyat attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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Decisions, decisions, decisions????  Which do I start on first to work on in between Senna packs??? davidyat attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/04/2014 Posts: 1,252 Points: 3,662 Location: Essex
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coming along nicely David Senna mclaren mp4/4 build complete mp4/4 build http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=12029
Dodge charger build complete https://forum.deagostini....1686229545.1.1.utmcsr=(direct)|utmccn=(direct)|utmcmd=(none)&__utmv=-&__utmk=9709046
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2014 Posts: 393 Points: 1,104 Location: st austell
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Very nice build. Nice to see someone doing about of inking I am not that brave yet . Facebook-model maker
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hello Dave,
You're Senna MP4/4 is looking great, a nice tidy build - I'll be watching out for more of your updates in the future!! 
Love your diorama of the 1:6 .50cal 'Ma Deuce' . Was that from one of Dragon's kits? It looks superb and would make a great piece if it was put into a scratch-built B-17 waist gunners position? Now there's an idea!
With the Tamiya 1:12 F1 kits, they're all cool, but it has to be the Tyrell Six-Wheeler for me.
Kev
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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Yes the 50 cal was a Dragon kit. If you get one, be careful if there is only 1 assembly instruction sheet. Well not exactly assembly but a blow up of where all the parts are supposed to go. Be careful when you put the 2 halves of the main body of the gun together, something should go in there before you glue up the halves. And the triangle that supports the 3 outriggers should be glued AFTER you assemble the outriggers. Put the charging handle on LAST. I can't tell you how many times I knocked it off before finishing.
The inking of the mesh screens is a breeze. Make a solution of about 2 parts thinner and one part black paint. It will be so runny, that when you dab your brush into it and put it on the mesh, capillary action will pull the ink over to the edges of any raised portion of the mesh. Take you time and be very careful. If any gets on the outside parts, just wipe it off. Then as it's drying, take a paper towel, wad it up some and start lightly wiping the raised parts of the mesh, leaving some black into the recessed parts. When you have what you like, just leave it to dry.
Tally Ho
Dave
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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My how time flies! Didn't know I was this late with updates. Took a camping trip to Washington State to visit relatives and watch the Superbowl. I have pictures of the radiators, resovoirs, cockpit, front shock and tires and rims. The shocks and radiators came out to my satisfaction with the inking of the mesh and lower part of the shock. The cockpit shift lever I know isn't right. I know it's machined aluminum on the full size. I'm old school, for some reason a wooden handle on the shifter just LOOKS right for me. Now the advice part. You can see that I tried a small drill bit in one of the front rims to place the RB Motion valve stems. UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING, DON'T DO IT! I broke a few drills and thank God the hole was able to be covered up with the valve stem when I put it in the hole. The second one, I snipped off the bottom protrusion of the valve stem and just instant glued (with 15 to 25 second setup gel) to the detent in the rim and let it dry. Much less hassle. Tally Ho, Dave davidyat attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to machine some plastic off the brake calipers to make a platform to install 16 brake bleeder valves! Yikes!
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/04/2014 Posts: 1,252 Points: 3,662 Location: Essex
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Tell me that the steering slider ends have not been glued as if they have then you'll have a problem as they are supposed to be horizontal and not vertical like you have done as the track rods won't go in. Senna mclaren mp4/4 build complete mp4/4 build http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=12029
Dodge charger build complete https://forum.deagostini....1686229545.1.1.utmcsr=(direct)|utmccn=(direct)|utmcmd=(none)&__utmv=-&__utmk=9709046
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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I remember when Bugs Bunny would put one over on Elmer Fudd. Then Elmer would look in the mirror and the reflection would be the head of a jackass. Now you know how I feel. I'm just gratefull that this was pointed out now. I believe there is still time to fix it. I'll figure it out. Thanks.
Tally Ho
Dave
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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Thank you, thank you, thank you, etc. Sometimes you just get lucky. I thought I glued the ends in and was prepared to use a soldering iron with a very small tip to soften up the plastic if I had to. I was pleasantly surprised that they would twist on the plastic when I held the plastic with a needle nosed pliers. They stiffly turned and are still secure. Thanks again for pointing this out to me. And I made sure the threaded part is down not up so the screw will go in from the top. Tally Ho Dave davidyat attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/04/2014 Posts: 1,252 Points: 3,662 Location: Essex
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Sometimes we need a bit of luck when building these things. Glad you got it sorted. Senna mclaren mp4/4 build complete mp4/4 build http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=12029
Dodge charger build complete https://forum.deagostini....1686229545.1.1.utmcsr=(direct)|utmccn=(direct)|utmcmd=(none)&__utmv=-&__utmk=9709046
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/06/2014 Posts: 82 Points: 250
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The front brake calipers will be some time in the making. I want to put in some RB Motion 1/8 scale brake bleeders, banjo fittings, aircraft end fittings and SS braided brake lines. I'm working on my neighbor's machining mill. Here are some pictures of the process for putting in one bleeder. I've gotten some very tiny bits. A 2.5 mm end mill, a 3/32 center drill and a #63 wire drill to use on the calipers. First picture, the finger sensitive drill bit. Then the plastic looking knob on the caliper. Then using the 2.5 mm end mill, I hog out the plastic knob, center drill a spot hole and finally drill the #63 (31 thousanths) hole to place the bleeder in. davidyat attached the following image(s):
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