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Official HMS Sovereign of the Seas Build Diary - Issues 106 - 110 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 04 September 2014 17:27:50

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Issue 106 - Contains parts to make the mizzenmast fighting top and diecast decorations for the right-hand side of the model.

Fitting the decorations.

Use a fine file to remove any burrs from decoration parts PD33, 34, 35 & 36, then coat them with metal primer and paint them gold.

Glue decoration PD35 onto the right-hand side of the hull, at the height of the forecastle.

Glue decoration PD34 in the centre of the right-hand side of the hull. Find the exact position of the piece by studying the step 4 photo.

Glue decoration PD33 on the right-hand side wale, but a little more towards the stern than the previous piece.

Glue decoration PD36 at the stern end of the right-hand side of the hull, placing it just above piece PD37.

Mizzen mast lower and upper fighting tops.

Asemble both mizzen fighting tops as shown in the steps, then finish the fighting tops, crosstrees, mast top and cheeks as before.

Place them into a lablelled bag and carefully store for future placement.

Future issues:

Issue 107 - Contains wooden strips, two Anchors, rings and a Cannon kit.

Issue 108 - Contains decorations for the left-hand side of the hull, sapele strips and gun port hatches.

Issue 109 - Contains right-hand side decorations, a figurehead decoration, Coamings for the
masts and hinges for the hatches.

Issue 110 - Contains brass circular inner bulwark gun port frames, bow & stern decorations, stern gun port hatches and the bow cannon muzzles.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 08 September 2014 16:23:07

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Issue 107 - Contains wooden strips, two Anchor castings, rings and a cannon kit.

Anchors - This is a repeat of the assembly process of the first anchor made at Issue 3.
Use a fine file to remove any burrs on the anchor castings, then coat them with metal primer and paint them metallic black.

Take the wood strip and cut it into four pieces, following the measurements indicated in the magazine.
Glue the two shorter pieces on the longer one. Line them up at the end and press the sides with your fingers so that they are aligned correctly. When the glue has dried, place the remaining long piece of the wood alongside and make a slot using a round file. This operation must be carried out at the same time on both halves to obtain identical slots. The slot needs to be the same width as the shank of the anchor, so check that it will fit.
Make a mark at the centre and at 1mm at each end of the stock. Draw two diagonal lines to join the points together. Using a sanding block, remove the excess wood.
Put a drop of Superglue in the slot and insert the anchor. It is essential that the stock is mounted at a right angle to the anchor flukes.
Now glue the two parts of the stock together with PVA wood glue. When dry, smooth with fine sandpaper and clean off any excess glue, then fix the entire assembly with a spring clamp until the glue has set.

If you have opted to stain the anchor stock, then do so before adding the stock bindings.
Retrieve the black 0.15mm black thread from Issue 3. Wrap black thread around the stock of the anchor to form four regular rope bindings, set according to the distances indicated in the step photo.
Secure the bindings by putting a drop of PVA glue into the bindings, spread it with a finger, and leave to dry. Use a very sharp craft knife to cut off the excess thread to obtain a clean finish.

Finally, open the anchor ring with two pairs of pliers, then pass it through the eye in the anchor shank, then close the ring.

Repeat to make a second anchor, then carefully store them until needed.

Assemble and finish the cannon in your chosen guise, then make up two carriage blocks and fit them as shown. Assemble a further ttwo blocks, this time with a double loop and an eyebolt fitted into the loop nearest the hole in the blocks.

Carefully store the cannon and blocks in a labelled bag until needed.

Future issues:

Issue 108 - Contains decorations for the left-hand side of the hull, sapele strips and gun port hatches.

Issue 109 - Contains right-hand side decorations, a figurehead decoration, Coamings for the
masts and hinges for the hatches.

Issue 110 - Contains brass circular inner bulwark gun port frames, bow & stern decorations, stern gun port hatches and the bow cannon muzzles.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 16 September 2014 12:49:29

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Issue 108 - Contains decorations for the left-hand side of the hull, sapele strips and gun port hatch covers.

Use a fine file to remove any burrs from the diecast decorations, then coat them with metal primer and paint them gold.

The eight decorations should be fixed at the stern end of the left-hand side of the hull.

Use a fine brush to paint black, white and red the detail of pieces PD39 and PD40, as shown in the instructions photo.
Then fix decorations PD39 and PD40 on the left-hand side of the model in the area over the second roof of the quarter galleries.

Again, use a fine brush to paint piece PD42 with black, silver, white and red paint, as shown in the instructions photo.
Then fix decoration PD42 on the left-hand side of the hull, placing it in the middle of the housing.

Again, use a fine brush to paint the detail of components PD43 and PD41 with black and white paint.
Then fix decorations PD43 and PD41 on the side of your model, in the area to the left of the second row of windows.

Now fix decorations PD45, PD44 and PD4 on the left-hand side of the hull, but a little more towards the bow than the previous decorations. Check the exact location of the pieces by looking at the instruction photos.

Gun port hatch covers

Cut a gun port hatch from the fret that came with this issue, then smooth the edges of the piece with fine-grained sandpaper.

Using the red paint you used used for the hul band, prime and then paint the edges and one of the two sides of the hatch.

Now take a 0.5x6x300mm sapele strip that came with this issue. Smooth the strip with fine-grained sandpaper and cut two 13mm-long pieces from it.

Place the hatch with the unpainted side upwards and glue on a 13mm strip. The strip must be flush with the upper edge of the gun port and protrude 1mm from the side edges, ensure that you have correctly oriented the hatch as shown in step 15.
Fix the second 13mm strip on the hatch, adjusting it so that it protrudes 1mm from the bottom edge.

Use a 0.5mm drill bit to drill a hole 2mm from the bottom edge of the hatch and in a centred position.

Take one of the eyebolts that you received with Issue 63 and shorten its shank to 1.5mm, then use black burnishing fluid to blacken the eyebolt.

Put drop of glue onto the shank of the eyebolt and fix into the hole oo the hatch, orienting the ring as shown in the instructions.

Now prepare the other 23 gun port covers in the same way as described above.

Paint the outer faces of eight gun port covers with the same black used for the hull, then paint the overhang of the undersides.

Apply a coat of clear matt varnish onto the sapele strip side of the remaining 16 gun port covers.

Carefully store the 24 gun port hatch covers for later placement.

Future issues:

Issue 109 - Contains right-hand side decorations, a figurehead decoration, coamings for the masts, and hinges for the gun port hatches.

Issue 110 - Contains brass circular inner bulwark gun port frames, bow & stern decorations, stern gun port hatches and the bow cannon muzzles.

Issue 111 - Contains diecast bow & stern decorations, a wooden strip and a masts plan.

Issue 112 - Contains diecast decorations, photo-etched brass decorations and a fighting top drilling plan.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 16 September 2014 12:56:45

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,051
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Issue 109 - Contains decorations for the right-hand side, a platform scroll decoration, mast coamings, and gun port hatch hinges.

Use a fine file to remove any burrs from the nine diecast decorations, then coat them with metal primer and paint them gold.

Use a fine paintbrush to paint the detail of these parts as you did with the same decorations placedon to the left side in the previous Issue.

Use a fine brush to paint black the bas-relief of the diecast scroll PF8.

The eight decorations should be fixed at the stern end of the right-hand side of the hull.

Fix decorations PD39 and PD40 on the right-hand side of the model, in the area over the second roof of the quarter galleries.

Fix decoration PD42 on the right-hand side of the hull, placing it in the middle of the housing, as shown in the instructions photo.

Fix decorations PD43 and PD41 on the right-hand side of the model in the stern area to the right of the second row of windows.

Fix pieces PD45, PD44 and PD4 again on the right-hand side of the hull, but a little more towards the bow than the previous decorations. Locate the exact position by looking at the instructions photos.

Figurehead assembly

Retrieve figurehead piecess PF1, PF2 and PF3 that you painted and assembled in Issue 82 and the figurines PF4, PF5, PF6 and PF7 that you painted and assembled in Issue 83. Also the figurehead platform that you worked on in Issue 77.

Test-fit then glue the horse figurehead into the three holes in the platform, (you may need to slightly adjust the forward mount hole as mentioned as stage 77).

Fix the figurine PF4 on the platform, placing it between the hind legs of the horse PF1.

Fix the figurine PF3 on the platform behind the hind legs of the horse PF1.

Fix the figurine PF5 under the horse PF1, placing it next to figurine PF4. The hands of figurine PF5 must touch the foot of figurine PF4.

Take the figurine PF6, apply glue, and fix it on the platform under the horse PF1 and next to the figurine PF5. One of its feet must touch the arm of figurine PF5.

Take the scroll decoration PF8. Fix the piece at the front end of the platform.

Finally, glue the figurine PF7 on the platform of the figurehead, placing it between the front legs of the horse PF1 and with its back against piece PF8.

Carefully store the figurehead platform for later placement and store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 110 - Contains brass circular inner bulwark gun port frames, bow & stern decorations, stern gun port hatches and the bow cannon muzzles.

Issue 111 - Contains diecast bow & stern decorations, a wooden strip and a masts plan.

Issue 112 - Contains diecast decorations, photo-etched brass decorations and a fighting top drilling plan..
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 04 October 2014 10:43:02

Rank: Pro

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,051
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Issue 110 - Contains circular brass inner bulwark gun port frames, bow & stern decorations, stern gun port hatches and the bow cannon muzzle castings.

Use a fine file to remove any burrs from the diecast cannon muzzle castings provided in this issue, then identify the outer and inner face.

Coat the outer face with metal primer and then paint them gold. Use a fine brush to paint black the bas-relief circle and muzzle hole, (you can opt to overpaint the muzzle bronze instead of gold).

The four muzzles should be glued on the forward bulkhead into the location of the holes, among the gold painted pillars/sculptures.

Stern gun port hatches

Remove the two hatches from the fret provided with this issue. The two hatch covers to be made are for the last gun port on the bottom row at the stern on both sides of the hull), which these hatches will be installed in a future assembly session and set in a closed position.

Take one of the two hatches and smooth the edges with finegrained sandpaper, then check that it fits exactly within one of the two gun ports indicated.

Take the 0.5x6x300mm sapele strip left over from Issue 108 and smooth it carefully with fine-grained sandpaper, then cut two 13mm-long pieces from the strip.

Place the hatch on your work surface and glue a piece of 13mm strip on it. The strip must be flush on three sides with the edges of the hatch. Then glue the second 13mm strip on the hatch, adjacent to the first.

Take one of the eyebolts that you received with Issue 63 and shorten the stem to 1.5mm then coat the eyebolt with black burnishing fluid.

Use a 0.5mm bit, to drill a surface hole 2mm from the lower edge of the hatch in a central position, then glue the eyebolt into the the hole in the hatch, orienting the ring as shown.

Prepare the other hatch, in the same way, then carefuly store both in a labelled bag until needed.


Platform and stern lantern decorations

Remove the four decorative wooden elements from the fret that came with this issue. For clarity, the two bow decorations have been designated 187 and the two stern ones 188.

Coat them with wood primer then paint the four pieces gold.

The pieces 187 are to be glued on the bow platform of the model, the pieces 188 on the stern crown at the sides of the lantern.

Fix the decorations 187 on the sides of the bow platform, setting them at the vertical edges of the bulwarks.

Glue decorations 188 on the stern crown on either side of the lantern.

Bulwark internal gun port frames

Take the brass fret which contains 16 circular gun port frames that came with this issue.

Cut out the 16 frames, then smooth the edges with a fine file.

The circular frames are to be fixed inside the round gun port openings on the bulwarks of the upper decks of your model. There are eight gun ports on the forecastle, six on the quarterdeck and two on the upper quarterdeck.

Use a fine file to adjust the outer edge shape of each frame to fit the profile of the relative gun port, then glue each frame in place.

After fitting the circular frames, use a fine brush to prime and paint the internal circular edge of each gun port gold.


Future Issues:

Issue 111 - Contains diecast bow & stern decorations, a wooden strip and a masts plan.

Issue 112 - Contains diecast decorations, photo-etched brass decorations and a fighting top drilling plan.

Issue 113 - Contains two cannon kits, a wooden strip, hinges, a hand rail plan & a masts, yards and bowsprit assembly plan.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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