Welcome Guest Search | Active Topics | Log In | Register

Official Webber RB7 Build Diary - Issues 89 - 96 Options
#1 Posted : 11 September 2014 10:09:02

Rank: Pro


Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,020
Points: -13,298
Issue 89 - Contains the left & right rear body cowl panels.

Information is contained within this issue of how to start up the engine and run the chassis for the first time.
During engine 'break in', its a good idea to run the chassis without its bodywork, to provide maximum cooling of the engine.

In this build session we will attach the left and right rear body panels the the display body.

Apply glue to the area outlined in the instructions, then position the left underbody so that it rests against the ridge on the left side of the display body. Hold it in position for around three minutes to allow the glue to set, making sure there are no gaps between the parts.

Repeat the process to attach the right rear body cowl panel to the right side of the display body.

This completes this stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
#2 Posted : 15 September 2014 08:55:29

Rank: Pro


Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,020
Points: -13,298
Issue 90 - Contains the display body induction pod parts and headrest.

If you are not painting your RB7, you should assemble and glue the induction pod & headrest onto the body as shown in the instructions.

If you intend to paint your RB7, you should glue the headrest to the front of the induction pod mount, and assemble the induction pod as shown in the instrructons, but do not glue the headrest or the induction pod mount onto the body, as this will prevent removal of the induction pod assembly from the body to facilitate it being painted.

The official build is being painted.

Lower the induction pod mount onto the space behind the driver’s helmet, then fit and glue the headrest to the front of the induction pod mount (do not glue it to the body)

Glue both halves of the induction pod together, then glue the pod onto the induction pod mount, then glue a pod pillar onto each side of the pod.

Remove the complete induction pod/headrest assembly from the body, then and prepare it for painting, smooth the pod joint seams, then prime and paint it yellow.
I used white primer followed by Tamiya TS-47 yellow. The induction pod assembly will be clear coated after it has been permanently fitted onto the body and after decals have been applied.

Once painted, set the induction pod aside until the next stage.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
#3 Posted : 16 September 2014 17:07:00

Rank: Pro


Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,020
Points: -13,298
Issue 91 - Contains the display upper cowl sections.

Test-fit then glue the two upper cowl sections together making sure no gaps appear. Set aside for the glue to dry.

If you are not painting your RB7, glue the upper cowl onto the main body and induction pod as shown in the instructions.

If you are painting your RB7, I chose to temporarily fit the upper cowl onto the main body (not glue) held on the underside by masking tape. Then primed and painted as one unit.
Then removed the upper cowl from the main body, glued the induction pod to the upper cowl, then glued the upper cowl and induction pod onto the main body.

I used Tamiya grey primer and TS-53 metallic blue overspayed with TS-65 pearl clear (wet on wet)

The entire body will be clear coated later on after the waterslide decals have been applied.

Carefully store the display body until needed.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
#4 Posted : 16 September 2014 17:27:29

Rank: Pro


Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,020
Points: -13,298
Issue 92 - Contains the turning vanes, bargebards and decal sheet.

If you are not painting your model, apply the waterslide decals to the turning vanes and bargeboards as shown in the instructions, then glue the stays onto the vanes. Then fit the vanes and bargeboards onto the chassis with screws placed through the chassis underside as shown in the instructions.

If you are painting your model, start by gluing and fitting the left turning stay onto the inside of the left vane, making sure that the stay is oriented as shown in the instructions.

Repeat to glue the right stay onto the right vane.

Prime and paint the turning vanes and bargeboards metallic blue.
(I used grey primer, and Tamiya T-53 in conjunction with TS-65 pearl clear as before).
When the paint has fully dried, cut-out both #7 'Rauch' decals from the decal sheet. Note that the decals are of the waterslide type, and therefore each needs to be soaked in luke-warm (not hot) water for about a minute, and the decal slid from the backing paper onto the part, (do not allow the decal to float free from the backing paper).

Apply the first Rauch decal on to the first bargeboard ensuring that the bargeboard is correctly oriented, then use a paper towel or cotton bud to gently remove excess water and any trapped air bubbles.

Repeat to place the second Rauch decal onto the second bargeboard.

In a similar manner, place a number '2' Webber decal onto the outside face of both turning vanes.

Leave the decals to dry overnight, then clearcoat the bargeboards and turning vanes. I used Mr Hobby B501 clear gloss.

When the clearcoat is fully dry, hold the left turning vane at its top, lower it into the section on the left side chassis. The pin in the vane’s base fits into the hole in the chassis, and the hole in its base lines up with the hole in the chassis. Now insert a 2x6mm countersunk screw up through the hole in the chassis and into the turning vane, then carefully tighten, butm make sure you don’t overtighten it.

Repeat to fit the right turning vane onto the right-hand side of the chassis.

Lower the left bargeboard into position between the left bargeboard stay (fitted in Stage 30) and the left side chassis, now insert a 2x6mm flat-head screw up through the hole in the underside of the left bargeboard stay and into the bargeboard. Tighten it, taking care not to vertighten. Then Insert another 2x6mm flat-head screw up through the vacant hole in the left side chassis and screw it into the bargeboard, making sure not to overtighten it.

Repeat to fit the right bargeboard onto the right-hand side of the chassis.

Carefully store the remaining decals within the poly bag for later use.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
#5 Posted : 07 October 2014 10:25:02

Rank: Pro


Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,020
Points: -13,298
Issue 93 - Contains the steering wheel, side mirror housing's and screws.

For this session, you will need the decal sheet supplied in Stage 92 and the display body as assembled over the previous stages. You will also need the components for the lower nose (Stage 29) and the front wing assembly (Stage 88), along with the chassis.

Mirror housings

If you are painting your display body, you can choose to prime and paint the mirror housing's to match the blue paint of your display body.

Lay the decal sheet supplied with Stage 92 on a cutting mat, and carefully use a knife to cut out the four remaining RAUCH logos (two small, two large, numbered as 8 and 9). Trim the decals as close to the edges of the logos as possible. Then follow the water soak process described previously, then place these decals onto the mirror housing's in the positions indicated, (the small logo should be place along the front surface and the larger logo placed on the top surface).

To mount the mirror housing's onto the display body, appply a small amount of adhesive into the two slot holes at the front edges of the display body cockpit, then fit the stem of each the mirror housing into these slots. (I chose not to glue the mirror housings in place until after the display body has been clear coated and the mirror housing's clear coated as separate items).

Preparing the steering wheel.

Spray the wheel evenly with satin black paint and allow it to fully dry before proceeding.
Optional: You can leave the sterring wheel as is, or for the ultimate finish, you may choose to add some colour to the steering wheel’s controls. If so, follow the step photo for guidance.

Once the paint is fully dry, lower the steering wheel into the holes inside the cockpit, but do not glue it in ppace just yet.

This build phase is complete for the time being, so set your display body safely to one side.

Mounting the front wing onto the chassis.

Lower the lower nose brace supplied with Stage 29 onto the rear of the front wing assembly, the parts will fit neatly when properly aligned.

Holding the parts together, turn the assembly over and insert one of the 3x8mm countersunk screws into each of the two holes, then tighten these fully with a screwdriver.

Next, remove the three screws indicated from the front end of your model. If the rear screw is difficult to take out, press down carefully on the pushrod mount so that you can get a hold of the screw’s head.

Now turn the chassis over and remove the two screws indicated.

Turn the chassis over, then slide the front wing assembly over the front end of the chassis so that the screw holes at the rear of the wing line up with those on the chassis.When the holes line up exactly, as shown above, insert the two 3x4mm countersunk screws supplied with this stage into the indicated holes and tighten both screws fully with the screwdriver.

Now lower the 3x18mm countersunk screw into the rear hole (see red arrow), and tighten it fully. Again, if you find it difficult to fit the screw into place, press down on the pushrod mount a little.

Turn the chassis over again, and insert the two of the 3x10mm countersunk screws supplied with this stage into the indicated holes. Then insert another 3x8mm countersunk screw into the indicated hole and tighten it. Fully tighten all three screws.

This session is now complete. Carefully protect and store the display body and store the chassis safely until next time.

Carefully store the steering wheel until needed later on.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
#6 Posted : 13 October 2014 10:46:30

Rank: Pro


Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,020
Points: -13,298
Issue 94 - Contains details parts for the display body - mirrors, top camera, rear light, antenna, sensor, head pad, pitot mount and drivers hands.

I started by priming and then painting the various components provided with this stage: The gloved hands - matt black. The antenna, top camera, sensor and head pad - satin black. The mirror's silver, and the pitot tube mount - metallic blue (to match the blue the blue of your display body) and its tubes - silver.

Apply the yellow top camera decals (provided with issue 92) onto the top camera as shown. (The black break line between each of the decals is intended as it copies the real thing).

Glue the top camera onto the tab on top of the air induction pod, though you may want to set the camera aside if you are planning to clear coat the body later on).

Ensure the sensor is correctly oriented, then press its base into the rectangular slot in the right side of the display body. Do not glue this part just yet, (or you can opt to store it for later placement).

Apply some adhesive to the back of the head pad, then orient and fit the pad onto the front of the induction box, so that the moulding on the back of the pad sit's in the moulded recess in the induction box, (again if you are clear coating the body, you may want to set the pad aside until later on).

Set the the painted gloved hands aside with the steering wheel, until it is time to fit the steering wheel.

Apply a small amount of glue into the recesses of the mirror housings, then fit a painted mirror glass into both housings.

I chose to store the painted pitot mount and antenna until after the body decals have been added.

Apply a small amount of glue onto the pins on the reverse side of the rear light lens, then set the lens into the square hole at the rear of the chassis, (you should not use superglue as this may fog the lens).

Tomick attached the following image(s):
#7 Posted : 13 October 2014 11:47:40

Rank: Pro


Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,020
Points: -13,298
Issue 95 - Contains the RB7 Lexan Racing bodyshell.

The Racing body is a one piece bodyshell which needs to be trimmed to shape and component mounting holes and cooling holes cut-out. The tools I used - Lexan curved shears, bodyshell reamer, modelling knife (with fresh blade) and fine files (I used diamond files).

Take great care when using the reamer, it is very sharp and easy to over-enlarge a hole, also great care and control needed when using a modelling knife, as it is very easy to slip off the line or over-cut if too much pressure is used.

Note - The outer surface of the Lexan bodyshell has a protective polythene film, which should NOT be removed until AFTER the bodyshell has been painted.

Preparing the Lexan bodyshell

The lines along which you have to cut and make holes on the Lexan bodyshell, are indicated in the instructions by dotted red lines instructions, which are visible indentations moulded into the body itself. (You can if you wish, trace over these lines onto the outside of the shell (onto the protective film) using a fine permanent marker pen).

There are small, circular indentations on the top side of the body in the locations indicated by the dotted red circles. Using a reamer to make the lower two of these into small holes of about 1mm in diameter, and the arrowed one into a 5mm hole.

As you did with the top of the body, use a reamer to make five holes in the cockpit baset using the dotted red circles as a guide. Each hole should be 1mm in diameter.

Next, cut two larger holes in the front face of the induction pod – the locations of these are shown by the red dotted red lines.

Next, use the reamer to create five more small holes on the top of the body. The two holes set close together at the front of the induction pod area should have a diameter of 1mm, while the other three should be 5mm.

The next step is to cut away the two spaces that will sit at either side of the engine cooling head, which allow for adequate air cooling of the engine. The left-hand space is shown in the photo marked by the dotted red line. To create this hole, follow the same procedure as you did to make the holes in the front of the air induction pod. Then repeat to create the corresponding hole on the right-hand side of the bodyshell.

The final stage of trimming down the bodyshell is to cut it along its base line, shown by the dotted red line. Be extremely careful not to cut above the dotted line, and make sure to cut the small upward notch shown in the inset photo.

Your RB7 bodyshell is now ready for the next stage, of cleaning the inside of the bodyshell and painting it, using the method described on pages 7-10 of this issue. It is very important to clean the inside of the bodyshell with detergent and warm water prior to painting it. Then thoroughly dry it with a lint-free cloth and set it aside for a few hours for it to fully dry out. Then mask the cut-out holes from the outside of the shell.

You must use a paint suited for use on Polycarbonate (Lexan) bodyshells.

The Tamiya 'PS' range of aersols is one such paint type, (failure to use lexan paint may mean the paint flakes off).

I used Tamiya PS-59 deep metalic blue in conjunction with PS-58 pearl clear, PS-19 camel yellow, and PS-5 black - to back the blue paint, and PS-1 white - to back the yellow. (note that a white back coat over the blue may make the blue look a a little lighter), I used black.

The bodyshell box can be used to store the Racing body.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
#8 Posted : 17 October 2014 17:12:15

Rank: Pro


Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,020
Points: -13,298
Issue 96 - Contains the Racing body front wing, cascade wings, end plate wings, decal sheet and screws.

You can opt to prime and then paint the front wing parts in your chosen metallic blue to match the Racing body, or assemble the racing front wing unpainted.

In this instance the decals are self-adhesive. Start by cutting out the numbered decals of the cascade wings from the sheet, using scissors or a craft knife. Cut very carefully, going as close to the coloured edges of the decals as you can. (Note - To assist self adhesive decal placement, you can soak self-adhesive decals (not the waterslide type), in soapy water before application. This will lubricate the surface allowing you to position the decal. Remove any air bubbles as you would with waterslide decals, the decal will adhere once dry).

Peel away the backing, then apply each decal in turn onto the cascade wings. Then proceed to cut out and place the left and right decals of the front wing in the order shown in the instructions.

Position the left and right front cascade wings above the corresponding sides of the front wing, Then screw two of the four 2x6mm countersunk screws into each cascade wing, (one at wing side and through the wing underside at ach end of the wing).

Next, place the right front wing endplate wing into position, and tighten another 2x6mm countersunk screw through the end plate to secure it. Repeat with the left wing endplate.

Cut out the first of the two TOTAL decals (#14) and apply it to the right side of the front wing, then repeat to place the second TOTAL decal onto the left side of the front wing.

Carefully store the racing body front wing until it is needed.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
RB96-2W and V.JPG
Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2009, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.282 seconds.