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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Honda CB750-four
Honda introduced the CB750 to the US and European markets in 1969 after experiencing success with their smaller motorcycles, and was the first modern four-cylinder machine from a mainstream manufacturer, and the term 'Superbike' was coined to describe it.
Upon its introduction Cycle magazine called the CB750 "the most sophisticated production bike ever" and a "masterpiece". The CB750 offered two unprecedented features, a front disc brake and a transverse straight-4 engine and single overhead camshaft (SOHC), neither of which was previously available on a mainstream affordable production bike. Its features and the low introductory price gave the CB750 a considerable advantage over its competition, particularly its British rivals.
The SOHC models were produced from 1969 to 1978 with sales totaling over 500,000 in its life span. The Discovery Channel ranked it as being third among the top ten greatest motorcycles of all time, an example of which is on display at the National Motor Museum.
The Honda CB750-four model:
Honda officially licensed 1/4 Scale replica.
Height: 270mm
Length: 520mm
Width: 200mm
The model incorporates: Operable suspension, metal roller chain, operable seat, opening fuel filler cap, operable head & brake lights, rubber tyres with authentic tread pattern, operable indicators & horn, metal fenders, rubber fork gaitors, operable forks, pre-painted parts, metal spoked wheels and real CB750-four engine sound.
The electronics are infra-red controlled housed within the display base (included), which is operated by a Honda key.
Made of die-cast metal, ABS plastic and thermoplastic rubber, this is a must-have model for any collector or Honda fan. The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible.
Info pack: http://www.model-space.c...le/download/file_id/63/
Web order page: http://www.model-space.c...ld-the-honda-cb750.html
Official video build: https://www.youtube.com/...phpFzveSTHpCw6-dlisA1C1
The official build diary will follow the format of the instructions and the build will not include any enhancement to the base magazine build. You can of course build, enhance and finish your model how you so choose.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Pack 1 contains Stages 1- 4
Stage 1 contains the Fuel tank and two Honda fuel tank logo's.
Test fitting: To minimise the risk of any errors during assembly, it is always best to test-fit the parts before applying glue.
Place the fuel tank and two logos next to each other, as shown, with the left logo on the left of the tank and the right logo on the right.
The logos are identified by a stamp on their inner sides, ‘L’ for the left and ‘R’ for the right.You will just be temporarily assembling these parts for the time being.
Locate the two pegs on the back of the left logo and the two forward holes on the left side of the fuel tank. Hold the logo so that the pegs are aligned with the holes.
Push the logo evenly against the tank. Insert the two pegs on the right logointo two forward holes on the right side of the tank, then push the pegs fully in.
This concludes Stage 1, store the assembly safely in a bag with its stage number until needed.
arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 2 contains the front wheel, cylinder head cover and upper and lower breather cover's.
Check over the wheel, as some of the spokes may have come loose. If any have, simply re-insert them into the appropriate hole.
The holes in the two projecting parts of the breather cover (upper) are not threaded, so you will need to tighten one of the type A screws into them to cut a thread. Doing this will aid the assembly steps at the end of this stage.
First, tighten the screw into one of the holes until only a third of its thread is left visible.
When you have tightened the screw into the hole by around two thirds of its length, remove it and repeat the process for the second hole. When the second hole has been threaded, remove the screw and wipe any residue from it.
Hold the cylinder head cover with the tachometer cable inlet facing left. Place the breather cover (lower) in the central section of the cover, with the circled projection on the same side as the inlet. Then place the breather cover (upper) on top of the lower, inserting the two projections into the two holes.
Make sure that the parts are flush and are all aligned properly, as shown in the photograph above.Turn the cylinder head cover over, holding the breather parts in place. Tighten a type A screw into the hole in the centre.
Once the first screw is preventing the breather parts from coming loose, tighten the second screw into the hole nearer the edge. Tighten the two screws alternately until they are both flush with the cover.
This concludes Stage 2, store the assembly safely in a bag labeled with the stage number until needed.
arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 3 contains Instrument glasses ,Speedometer dial,Tachometer dial,Instrument bodies ,Instrument housing,Instrument spindles ,Instrument needles ,Instrument spindle collars Screws,Top yoke and Front tyre.
Assembly part 1
Before assembling the tyre to the wheel you may notice there is a slight bloom upon the tyre which is a result of being in storage. A simple wash in warm soapy water will resolve this.
Insert the front wheel from Stage 2 into the gap between the inner walls of the front tyre.Work round the edge of the wheel, lifting the tyre onto the rim on one side of the wheel.Once you have fitted the tyre onto one side of the wheel, turn the wheel over and pull the other side of the tyre into place.
Assembly Part 2
Align the hole of one of the instrument needles with the hole in the centre of the speedometer dial.Gently hold the needle in place and insert one of the spindles through the holes in both the needle and the speedometer dial.
Place an instrument spindle collar over the end of the pin that is protruding from the back of the speedometer dial.Be careful when doing this, because all the parts are fragile.
Align the hole of the remaining instrument needle with the hole in the tachometer dial.Gently hold the needle in place and insert the second spindle through the holes in the needle and the dial.Place the second instrument spindle collar over the end of the spindle to secure the part.Gently hold the needle in place and insert the second spindle through the holes in the needle and the dial.The needle is now fixed to the tachometer dial,and both dials are now ready to be fitted to the instrument housing.Place the speedometer dial onto the left-hand side of the instrument housing,inserting the circled projection into the circled notch.Make sure that the speedometer dial is flush with the housing.
As it is not fixed yet, gently hold it in place during the next few steps.Hold one of the instrument glasses as shown,and locate the circled projection. Insert the projection on the rear of the glass into the hole near the bottom of the speedometer dial.
Position one of the instrument bodies above the speedometer, aligning its three projections with the three holes in the housing.Fit the instrument body over the speedometer and into the holes in the housing.
Repeat to fit the tachometer dial and its glass to the right-hand side of the instrument housing.Fit the second instrument body over the tachometer and into the holes in the housing.
Hold the top yoke, and insert the two projections on the back of the instrument housing into the two holes in the yoke. Make sure that the instrument housing projections are fully inserted into the holes in the yoke. Be careful not to scratch the black paint off these parts when you are handling and assembling them.
Now turn the assembly over and tighten a type G screw into the left-hand hole in the top yoke. Then tighten a second type G screw into the top yoke, this time into the hole on the right.
This concludes Stage 3 please store any assembled parts safely in a bag labeled with the stage number until neededarpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 4 contains Handlebars, Upper handlebar clamps, Lower handlebar clamps and Screws.
Before beginning this stage, you should cut a thread in six of the holes in the handlebar clamps. These holes have no thread for the screws at this point, which will make it harder to assemble the clamps later on.
Tighten a type A screw into the holes, in both the upper and lower handlebar clamps. Stop when only a third of the length of the screw is still visible, and then remove it from the hole. All six holes in the handlebar clamps should all be threaded.
You can if you wish, use a thread tap to cut the screw threads as mentioned in the instructions.
There is a small notch at the rear of each of the cutouts on the handlebars. The small projections on the lower clamps fit into them.
Fit one of the lower handlebar clamps into the cutout on the left-hand side of the handlebars, matching the projection with the notch. Holding the lower handlebar clamp in position, place the upper clamp over the handlebar and on top of the lower clamp. Align the holes of the upper clamp with those of the lower clamp and hold the parts in place, then insert a type A screw into one of the holes in the lower handlebar clamp. Tighten the screw, stopping when it’s holding the clamps close enough together that they can't come free from the handlebar but are still a little loose.
Now tighten a type A screw into the second hole in the lower clamp. When this screw is as tight as the first one, start tightening them alternately until they are both completely secure.
Fit the other lower handlebar clamp into the cutout on the right-hand side of the handlebars, matching the projection with the notch. Place the other upper clamp over the handlebar and on top of the lower clamp, aligning the holes of both. Turn the assembly over and insert a type A screw into one of the holes in the lower handlebar clamp. Tighten a type A screw into the second hole in the lower clamp. When this screw is as tight as the first one, start tightening them alternately until they are both completely secure.
Place the two projections on the bottom of the lower clamps into the holes in the top yoke. Push the projections fully into the holes, and hold the handlebars in position.
Now turn the yoke and handlebar assembly over. Hold it and insert a type A screw into the hole on the right. Tighten the screw into place, then tighten a type A screw into the second hole on the underside of the yoke.
This concludes Stage 4 carefully store the assembly safely in a bag labeled with the stage number until needed.
arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Pack 02 contains Stages 5-7
Stage 5 contains Headlight case and fork cover assembly.
The indicators are attached to the headlight case and fork cover assembly by wires.
Fit the left indicator by first holding the assembly by the left cover and push the wire into the groove along the indicator mount. The ends of the indicator mounts fit into the holes in the fork covers, which are shaped so that the ends can only fit in when they are the right way round.
Align the end of the indicator mount with the hole in the cover and push it into place. Now push the wire into the groove along the right indicator mount.
Repeat to fit the right-hand indicator.
This concludes Stage 5, store any assembled parts safely in a bag labeled with the stage number until needed.
arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 6 contains the left fork assembly, fork boot & fork rib, Screws, left fork bolt head and grease pack.
Before assembling the fork's use a screw or tap to put a thread in the top of both of the fork's where they are attached to the yoke.
Cut a neat hole in the bag of grease, and squeeze a small amount onto the end of a toothpick. Apply grease around the seal (the black plastic ring).
Push grease into the hole in the fork tube, as shown in the instructions, then, holding the fork case, push the fork tube in and out, this will spread the grease around inside the assembly.
Reseal the grease bag with tape, and place it in another bag in case it leaks.
Place the left fork boot over the fork tube and slide it over the seal. It should sit on the step just below it. Now place the left fork rib over the tube, with the smaller side facing the boot.
Take the headlight case assembly from the previous stage, and turn the left fork so that the flat side at the top is facing towards you, away from the headlight case. Insert the end of the left fork into the left fork cover. It is best to hold the fork by the case, rather than by the boot.
When viewed from the top, make sure the D-shaped end on the fork fits into the handlebar yoke correctly.
Take the top yoke assembly from Stage 4, and locate the two circular recesses on the underside. Fit the circular recesses on the underside of the top yoke onto the tops of the fork covers. Make sure that the wires are all out of the way, and pointing backwards. Place a screw into the hole in the top yoke and tighten until it is flush with the yoke. When the screw is fully tightened into the hole, line up the left fork bolt head with the larger hole in the yoke and push fully home.
This concludes Stage 6, store any assembled parts in a bag labeled with the stage number until neededarpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Stage 7 contains Right fork assembly, fork bolt head, fork rib, fork boot. Screws and Tappet caps.
Assembly part 1
Repeat the assembly of the right fork as before and attach it to the yoke as instructed in Stage 6. Remember to seat the right fork correctly by turning it until it clicks into position.
Assembly Part 2
Take the cylinder head cover assembly from Stage 2 and hold one of the tappet caps above the hole at the end of the head cover. Make sure the higher side of the breather cover is facing towards you. Then push the tappet cap into the hole, until it is flat against the head cover and then do the same for the remaining 3 caps.
This concludes Stage 7, store any assembled parts safely in a bag labeled with the stage number until needed.
arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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