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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The Lamborghini Countach is a mid-engined Supercar that was produced by Italian car maker Lamborghini from 1974 to 1990.
Its design both pioneered and popularized the wedge-shaped, sharply angled look popular in many high-performance sports cars. The "cabin-forward" design concept, which pushes the passenger compartment forward in order to accommodate a larger engine, was also popularized by the Countach.
The 1982 Geneva Auto Show saw the appearence of the LP500S which had a bigger, more powerful 4.8-litre engine.
The Countach is considered an icon of the 1970/80's and the forerunner of all Supercars.
Walter Wolf Countach
In 1975, Walter Wolf, a wealthy Canadian businessman and owner of the Wolf F1 Racing Team in the 1970s, purchased an LP 400; however, he was not satisfied with the LP 400's engine and asked Dallara, the chief engineer of Lamborghini at that time and the founder of the Italian F1 racing team Scuderia Italia in the mid-1980s, to create a special high-power version of the Countach.
It was the "code No. 1120148" Walter Wolf special with the original 5 -litre engine from the Countach prototype, which produced 447hp and reached a supposed maximum speed of 201.1mph (323.6 km/h). This model also featured the upgraded wheels, Pirelli P7 tires, large fender flares, and front and rear spoIlers, a special F1-type steering wheel with 'Walter Wolf' engraved in it, special AP disc brakes with eight calipers and a Borg & Beck double-disc clutch. It all added up to an unique Countach and was painted bright red, with black fender flares, and was designated "LP 500S"
Two other Wolf Countach's were produced, one painted bugatti blue, No.1120202 (currently in Germany) and one navy blue/black, No.1121210, (this car was owned by Walter Wolf, but was eventually sold).
The Lamborghini Countach model:
Lamborghini officially licensed 1/8 scale replica
517.5mm long, 128mm high, 249mm wide
Weight: 7kg
Model Spec:
Metal wheels with authentic tread pattern Pirelli tyres, ignition wiring, metal tail spoiler, rubber brake duct hoses, operable scissor doors, authentic four point seat harness', working horn, authentic engine sound, operable gear stick, opening bonnet and engine bay, pop-up lighted headlamps. A press on the accelerator rev's the engine and a press on the brake pedal operates the brake lights.
Made of die-cast metal, ABS plastic and thermoplastic rubber, this is a must-have model for any collector or Lamborghini fan. The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible.
Web order page:
https://www.deagostini.c...ls/lamborghini-countach
Lamborghini video build:
https://www.youtube.com/...Xpg5mPvjP2gHce4J5748g5C
The official build diary will follow the sequence of the instructions and will not include any enhancement to it's suplied build. You Can of course build, enhance and finish the model how you so choose.
Please Note: Official build diary images & text are protected under UK copyright law.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Pack 01 contains Stages 1-3
Stage 1 - The rear wing
Contains -
Rear wheel
Rear wheel centre cap
Rear wing stay (left)
Rear wing stay (right)
Rear wing
Check the shape and orientation of both rear wing stays. When you install a wing stay, make sure that the wing angle pin is facing in and the highest point of the stay is rearmost.
Align the pins on the top of the rear wing stays with the holes on the underside of the rear wing making sure that the parts are orientated correctly.
Push the pins of the stays into the holes in the rear wing.
Wrap the rear wheel centre cap in tissue paper and place it into a plastic bag, along with the rear wheel, with the stage number (1) written on it for reference.stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 2 - The first rear wheel and tyre
Contains -
Bonnet
Rear tyre (with inner sponge)
Cylinder head cover TR (with gasket pre-installed)
Cylinder head cover TL (with gasket pre-installed)
The wheels and tyres are replicas of the exact design of the Campagnolo wheels and Pirelli P7 tyres used by Walter Wolf’s LP 500S.
Remove the inner sponge from the rear tyre being careful not to damage it.
After removing the inner sponge, squeeze the tyre a few times in your hands then brush the entire surface of the tyre with an old toothbrush - this will remove any debris left over from the molding process, then insert the inner sponge back into the tyre.
Insert the rear wheel provided with Stage 1 into one side of the tyre.
Push the wheel further into the tyre, being careful not to damage either part then pull the sidewall of the tyre over the outer rim of the wheel.
Turn the wheel around and lift the sidewall of the tyre over the inner rim of the wheel.
When the tyre is on the wheel, hold the assembly between your hands and roll it back and forth to ensure that the tyre walls are fully seated in the rim.
Keep the wheel in a plastic bag with the stage number written on it.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 3 - The cylinder head
Contains -
Angled tweezers
Cylinder head
Head cover bolts A x 16
Head cover bolts B x 2
Driver’s seat
M2.3 x 6mm self-tapping
screws x 5 (one is a spare)
The first step is to identify the cylinder head cover bolts A and B, so you know which is which before you begin the assembly. Head bolts A have shorter bodies than head bolts B.
Use side cutters to remove the 16 head bolts A and two head bolts B.
Each of the parts is molded onto a runner with a thin section called a ‘gate’. Place the cutter's sharp inner edges into this gate to remove each part.
To prevent the parts dropping off and getting lost, place a strip of masking tape along the side of the runner and parts.
When you have all the parts separated from the runner, keep them safely until you need them – preferably in a compartmentalized storage box.
Take the cylinder head covers TL and TR retained from Stage 2, and remove the gasket strips attached to the back of each one.
Do this carefully to avoid damaging the covers, and put them both safely to one side as you will be needing them again later.
Pick up the first head bolt A with the angled tweezers, the jaws wrapped with some masking tape or even double-sided tape for a safer hold.
Make sure the longer side of the part, with the mounting pin is facing outwards from the tweezers.
Place the head bolt A into one of the holes in the cylinder head cover TL, making sure that you have the part orientated as shown then press the bolt further into the hole with your finger or thumb, but be careful not to scrape any of the silver paint from the part.
A wooden pencil would be suitable for this, do not use hard plastic or metal.
Repeat to fit all head bolts A into the holes on the TL and TR cylinder head covers, leaving two holes empty for now (shown below).
When all the head bolts A are in place, reseal both cylinder head covers with the gasket strips that you removed earlier. Note the orientation of the parts as shown – the hollow mounting pins should fit neatly into the gaskets’ holes without needing to be forced.
Fit the head covers TL and TR so that the hollow pins fit into the holes in the cylinder head, then holding the parts in place, turn the assembly over and insert four 2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screws into the holes then tighten carefully with a Phillips screwdriver.
This stage is complete, so store all your parts away safely until next timestevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Pack 02 contains Stages 4-7
Stage 4- Cylinder head covers SL and SR, and the front bumper
Contains -
Front bumper
Fog lamps
Fog lamp lenses
Cylinder head cover SL
Cylinder head cover SR
Head cover bolts A × 16
Head cover bolts B × 2
M2.3 × 5mm self-tapping screws × 7 (one is a spare)
As you did in Stage 3, differentiate between the cylinder head cover bolts A and B, then use side cutters to separate all of these from the sprue. Keep the A and B parts separately.
Carefully peel the gaskets from the backs of cylinder head covers SL and SR. Keep these to one side.
Insert the head bolts into the covers SL and SR - all 16 bolts are used. Once the bolts are in, reattach the gaskets to both head covers.
Fit the head covers SL and SR to the sides of the cylinder head then turn the assembly over and insert the M2.3 x 5mm screws into each of the holes.
The next job is to fit the fog lamps into the front bumper, make sure you have them the right way up – the top of the part has an angled edge, once in position, press the parts together lightly, just enough to hold them in place – the fog lamps do not have to be fully secure at this stage.
The two fog lamp lenses are identical, so it doesn’t matter which lamp each one goes in, but the printed Carello logos will show you the right way up to insert them.
Take the lenses and press them into the fog lamps, so that the thin rectangular pins fit into the corresponding holes in the lamps, press the parts together to fix them firmly into the front bumper.
Stage Complete -
This stage is now complete: the top of your Lamborghini Countach’s V12 engine is beginning to take shape, and the front bumper has its two fog lamps fitted.
Store your assembly and any unused parts safely until next time.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 5 - Front wheel and tyre
Contains -
Front tyre (with sponge inner)
Front wheel
Front wheel centre cap
Remove the inner sponge from the tyre, be careful not to tear the sponge when you pull it out.
After removing the sponge, squeeze the tyre a few times to make it more pliable, then remove any molding debris with an old toothbrush.
Insert the sponge back into the tyre, making sure that it’s properly centered, then position the wheel in the center of the tyre.
Press the wheel into the tyre, taking care not to scrape off any of the wheel’s paint as you do so then pull the sidewall of the tyre over the outer rim of the wheel, making sure not to damage the valve on the inside of the rim, turn the wheel over and fit the other sidewall.
When the tyre is seated fully on the wheel, hold the assembly between your hands and roll it back and forth to ensure that the tyre walls are fully seated on the rims.
This stage is complete, so store your assembly and any unused parts in a safe place until next time. To protect the rubber of the tyre, it is best to store it in a sealed plastic bag and keep it out of direct sunlight.stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 6 - Front Spoiler
Contains -
Front spoiler
A/C compressor bracket
Bracket bolts x 6
M2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screws x 3 (one is a spare)
M2.3 x 4mm self-tapping screws x 3 (one is a spare)
Remove four of the six bolts from the sprue, keep the other two bolts safe for now.
Insert the four bolts into the A/C compressor bracket, use the same method as in previous stages when fitting the cylinder head covers and keep the bracket safe for use in the next stage.
Lay the front spoiler out on your work surface, facing upwards.
Line up the front bumper assembly, built in Stage 4, with the raised holes on the inside edge of the spoiler.
Lower the spoiler onto the bumper, with the holes aligned with the corresponding holes on the bumper and Insert M2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screws into the holes at each end and tighten these with a screwdriver.
Next, place two M2.3 x 4mm self-tapping screws into the holes behind the fog lamps and tighten these with a screwdriver.
This stage is complete. The spoiler is now fitted to the front bumper, and the A/C compressor bracket has four of its bolts in place.stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 7 - A/C Compressor
Contains -
Oil casing
Oil separator
A/C compressor cover
Oil cap
Alternator fan
Pulley A
Throttle crank base
A/C compressor
Pulleys B x 2
Belt A
Belt B
A/C valves x 2
M2.3 x 5mm self-tapping screws x 3 (one is a spare)
M2.3 x 4mm self-tapping screws (one spare)
M2.3 x 5mm self-tapping
washer screws x 3 (one spare)
M2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screws x 3 (one spare)
Take the A/C compressor and its cover and press the parts together, noting the small and large holes and pins in each part.
Fit the pulley wheel onto the mounting pin noting it's orientation then secure with a M2.3 x 5mm self-tapping washer screw, tighten the screw but check the pulley can still turn in both directions.
Next, take the A/C valves and place them into the holes in the compressor. The valve’s mounting pins have a D-shaped cross section which will match that of the holes, push the parts into place, being careful not to apply too much pressure as the parts are thin and may break.
Fit the oil separator to the oil casing and secure with one M2.3 x 4mm self tapping screw and tighten fully with a screwdriver.
Insert the two pulley B parts into the holes and push into place ensuring they are straight, turn the assembly round and secure with two M2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screws - Do not fully tighten at this stage – only turn the screw until its head just touches the casing.
Take the A/C compressor bracket assembled in Stage 06 and line up the oil cap’s D-shaped mounting pin to the circled hole, push the oil cap into the hole so it is secure.
This stage is now complete, and the various parts of your model’s engine are beginning to take shape. Store these, and any unused parts, away safely until next time.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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