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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Pack 3 contains Stages 8 - 10
Stage 8 – Carburettors and Air Filters
Contains -
Right carburettor
Left carburettor
Right air filter casing A
Left air filter casing A
Right air filter casing B
Left air filter casing B
M2.6 x 4mm self-tapping screws x 7
(one is a spare)
M2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screws x 7
(one is a spare)
M2 x 5mm countersunk
self-tapping screws x 5
(one is a spare)
Line up the right air filter casing B to the right carburettor, so that the latter’s mounting posts will sit neatly inside the three holes, and the pin at the end of the carburettor is lined up to the hole in the edge of the air filter casing.
Note: to make sure you have the correct parts, check that there is a small number 1 on the underside of the right carburettor and the right air filter casing.
With the mounting posts and holes lined up, push the carburettor into place, the carburettor’s posts are very thin, so be careful not to force these as they may break.
Holding the parts together, turn the assembly over and insert three M2.6 x 4mm self-tapping screws into the holes and tighten with a screwdriver, but stop as soon as you feel any resistance.
Now line up the assembly with the right air filter casing A, so that the pins and holes align.
Note: again, a small number 1 is moulded onto the inside of the new part Press the parts together so that there are no gaps around the edges. Insert two M2 x 5mm countersunk self-tapping screws into the holes. Turn the screws so that their flattened heads are level with the surface of the part.
Repeat the above steps for the left carburettor and air filter casings A and B, only this time the parts are all numbered "2" inside.
Take the cylinder head assembly from Stage 04 and line up the left carburettor and air filter casing with its left-hand side, ensuring the orientation is correct. Press the mounting posts into the corresponding holes in the cylinder head, and press the parts together, holding them in place, turn the assembly over and insert two M2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screws into the holes. Tighten with a screwdriver, again being careful not to over tighten. Fit the right carburettor and air filter assembly in the same way.
This stage is now complete, and your LP 500S’s engine has been equipped with its left and right carburettors and air filter casings. Store any unused parts in a sealable plastic bag with the stage number clearly marked on it in pen for ease of reference.stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 9 – Distributors
Contains -
High-tension cables x 2
Exhaust pipe R1
Exhaust pipe R2
Exhaust pipe L2
Exhaust pipe L1
Distributor parts A x 2
Distributor parts B x 2
Cable retainer
Lay a distributor part A and a part B on your work surface next to one another to compare them - note the locations of the notches.
Take one set of the high-tension cables and line up its end block with the distributor part A, making sure that the ridge on the end block will fit into the notch previously identified. Press the distributor part A onto the end block, checking that the corners of both parts line up.
Holding the parts in place, line up the distributor part B, again with the notch aligned with the end block’s ridge. Press distributor part B into place and make sure that the three corners of the distributor part B are offset from those of the distributor part A . Repeat the previous steps to prepare the second set of high-tension cables.
Take the oil casing assembly (Stage 07) and the first set of high-tension cables and distributor, align the ridge on the cable end block with the corresponding notch in the hole and press them together. Holding the parts together, turn the assembly over and insert one of the M2.3 x 6mm screws saved from Stage 08. Tighten with a screwdriver just enough to prevent the parts from moving. Repeat for the second set of cables.
Look closely at the two sets of cables – you will see that in each there is one cable that is not tied into the main bundle Hold these two together and slide the cable retainer over them both so that it sits halfway down the cables.
This stage is now complete, and the two distributors, along with their high-tension cables, have been mounted on the oil casing.
Store all the parts away safely until next time, and make sure any unused parts are kept in a
sealed plastic bag marked clearly with the stage number for reference.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 10 – Silencers
Contains -
Silencer A1
Silencer A2
Silencer B1
Silencer B2
Silencer part A3
Silencer part B3
Tailpipes x 4
Silencer brackets C x 2
Decals (for silencers)
Line up the A/C compressor assembly (Stage 07) to the underside of the A/C compressor bracket assembly (Stage 06).
Align the pins and holes and press the parts together. Holding the parts together, turn the assembly around and insert an M2.3 x 5mm self-tapping washer screw (Stage 07), then tighten with a screwdriver.
Fit both belts B (Stage 07) around the A/C compressor’s silver pulley, one in each groove, making sure the ribbed sides are facing inwards. Holding the belts in place, line up the mounting post on the side of the A/C compressor assembly to the corresponding hole in the oil casing assembly (Stage 09), press them together and insert an M2.3 x4mm self-tapping screw (Stage 07) into the hole and tighten with a screwdriver.
Use tweezers to carefully pull both belts B over and around the oil casing’s two silver pulleys so that they fit neatly in grooves.
Lay the cylinder head (Stage 08) out on your work surface then line up the throttle crank base (from Stage 07) so that the holes in it will be able to fit over the holes in the cylinder head.
Place the throttle crank base on top of the cylinder head, spanning the two black covers and fit using the two head bolts B saved from Stage 03.
Hold the cylinder head assembly upside down then bring the oil casing to meet it, so that the pins come into contact with the mounting posts.
If the pins do not line up properly with the posts, it may help to loosen some of the screws a little to allow a bit of movement in the cylinder head covers. Fit the parts together so that the holes on the oil casing come to rest above the posts on the cylinder head. If you loosened the screws in the previous step, tighten them again now.
Insert the two M2.3 x 5mm self-tapping screws, saved from Stage 07, into the holes and tighten them with the screwdriver.
Identify the different silencer parts - Silencer A1 is marked with a number 1, silencer A2 with a 2, silencer B1 with a 3, and silencer B2 with a 4. Silencer part A3 has a 1 and a 2 on it, and silencer part B3 has a 3 and a 4.
Join silencers A1 and A2 together, Press the parts together, making sure they sit parallel to one another once joined. Press silencer part A3 onto the assembly, so that the two fit snugly together. Fit silencer bracket C to the assembly noting the different sized pins and holes.
Repeat this procedure with parts B1, B2, B3 and bracket C.
Join the two assemblies together so that the two mounting posts and holes on the surfaces of each one fit together.
This stage is now complete, as ever, store all your used and unused parts away safely in marked plastic bags until they are needed.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Pack 4 contains Stages 11-14
Stage 11 – Throttle Linkage and Blow-by Gas Hoses.
Contains -
Throttle linkage (pre-assembled)
Blow-by gas hose A
Throttle cable
Blow-by gas hose B
Blow-by gas hose C
Firstly, differentiate between the six high-tension leads of the first set fitted in Stage 10.
Lay the leads across the cylinder head and push the tip of the lead numbered 1 into the outermost hole.
Repeat to fit all six leads into their respective holes. For this basic arrangement, leads 1 and 2 can go into either hole – the same applies for leads 3, 4 and 5.
If you want to recreate the exact arrangement of the HT leads of the real car then follow steps 5-7 of the pdf guide, if not, then steps 5-7 can be ignored. Once you are happy with the positions of the first set of leads,
repeat the process to fit the second set into the corresponding holes on the opposite side of the cylinder head.
Press down lightly on the two sets of leads so that the ends slip neatly through the holes in the body of the cylinder head, and the tied parts of the leads run flat along the top of it.
Turn the assembly over, and gently pull each lead to make sure that there is no slack left on the top of the cylinder head.
Back on the top of the cylinder head, fit the “L” shaped end of the blow-by gas hose (B) into the hole on the cylinder head and fit the other end of the hose to the center hole on the oil separator.
Next, use tweezers to fit the straight end of the blow-by gas hose C into the hole on air filter casing, and
pass the hose across the cylinder head, fit the other end of hose C into the left hole on the oil separator.
Now press the straight tip of blow-by gas hose A into the right air filter casing adjacent to the oil separator, making sure that the body of blow-by gas hose A runs over that of hose B, push the other end into the right hand hole in the oil separator. Lastly, push the end of the throttle cable over the pin at the end of the throttle crank base.
This stage is now complete, and all the high-tension leads and blow-by gas hoses are in place. Store your assembly safely until next time, along with any unused parts, in a sealable plastic bag with the stage number marked clearly on it.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 12 – Throttle Linkage and Alternator.
Contains -
Rear wheel
Alternator B
Alternator A
M2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screws x 2
Rear wheel centre cap
Alternator bracket
Take the alternator bracket and alternator A, and place the alternator A’s mounting post through the hole in the bracket, making sure that they fit neatly then press them together.
Now add the alternator B to the assembly, so that its central hole accommodates the mounting post and the sections fit neatly, then press both alternator parts together.
Take the alternator fan supplied in Stage 07 and place it over the protruding tip of the alternator A’s mounting post.
Press all the parts together and place an M2.3 x 6mm self-tapping screw into the hole in the alternator fan.
Tighten the screw so that you are still able to turn the fan with your fingertips, but there is no play in it.
The next job is to mount the throttle linkage to the top of the cylinder head assembly which involves fitting the pins on the underside of the throttle linkage into the holes in the cylinder head – the pdf instructions will show these holes clearly.
When you are familiar with where each part will fit line up the throttle linkage to the cylinder head, then gently place the part into position. Do not press the pins into place at this stage.
Once the throttle linkage’s pins are in position, press the throttle crank onto its mount so that its shaped pin enters the hole firmly.
Next, very carefully use tweezers to fit the crank’s free rod into the recess on the throttle crank base, these parts are very thin, so be especially careful when moving them.
When that is done, gently press down on the silver bars on either side of the crank, so that the pins on their undersides enter their corresponding holes.
Finally, use the end of a wooden pencil or similar relatively soft object to press the outermost rows of pins into the carburettors, one by one. Do this gently to avoid scratching the gold paint off the parts. Work from the middle outwards as you do this.
This stage is now complete, and your model’s cylinder head has been fitted with the throttle linkage. Store your assemblies safely until next time, along with any unused parts, in a sealable plastic bag with the stage number marked clearly on it for ease of reference.
[/size] stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 13 – Exhaust Pipes and Rear Tyre
Contains -
Starter
Rear tyre
M2 x 5mm countersunk screws x 3
(one is a spare)
Transmission case L
Lay out the four exhaust pipes supplied with Stage 09. Join the exhaust pipes L1 and L2 by fitting the pins and holes together and press the parts together to secure them.
Repeat the process to fit the two exhaust pipes R1 and R2 together, so that you have complete left and right exhaust pipe assemblies.
Next, remove the foam insert from the rear tyre, making sure not to damage it and flex and squeeze the tyre between your hands. As with the previous tyres, use an old toothbrush to clean off any debris left over from the moulding process and replace the foam insert. Now push the rear wheel into the tyre and pull the sidewall of the tyre over the outer rim of the wheel, then repeat for the inner rim.
When the tyre is on the wheel, hold the assembly between your hands and roll it back and forth to ensure that the tyre walls are fully seated in the rims.
This stage is now complete, and your left and right exhaust pipes are prepared for the future assembly.
Store these and any unused parts away safely in a sealable plastic bag with the stage number marked on it – the assembled rear wheel and tyre can be kept along with the other rear wheel from Stage 02.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 14 – Fitting the Tailpipes
Contains -
Transmission case R
Adhesive tape (2 strips)
Differential case back plate
Water pump T
M2 x 5mm countersunk
screws x 3 (one is a spare)
Prime the tail pipes with clear metal primer as directed in the pdf instructions. When the primer is fully dry, slide a tailpipe over the end of one of the outer silencers, with its angled end uppermost.
Slide the remaining three tailpipes over the ends of the other silencers, again with their angled ends uppermost. Don’t push them all the way on at this point.
The tailpipes should come to rest just above the ridges on the silencers. Holding the tailpipes in place, turn the assembly over and place the ends of the tailpipes against your work surface.
Turn the tailpipes so that their angled ends are all aproximately aligned and adjust the tailpipes as necessary until their angled ends are all sitting perfectly flat on your work surface.
Holding the tailpipes in position, press down evenly on the silencers to push the pipes fully into place.
Using scissors, carefully cut the first decal away from the strip supplied with Stage 10. There are five decals on the strip, one of which is a spare.
Use tweezers to soak the decal in warm water until it begins to separate from its backing paper. Make sure the tweezers don’t touch the decal itself.
Very gently slide the edge of the decal (not the whole decal) over the edge of its backing paper and into position on the first tailpipe.
Hold the edge of the decal in position with a moistened thumbtip, then gently pull the backing paper away to leave the whole decal on the side of the tailpipe. When it’s in place, dab it gently with a bit of folded and moistened tissue paper to get rid of any creases or bubbles, then leave it to dry fully. Reapeat on the other 3 tailpipes.
When the decals are fully dry you can mask off the pipes and apply a coat of clear lacquer over the decals – this is covered in detail in the pdf instructions.
Peel away one strip of the adhesive tape supplied with this stage. Lay the cylinder head assembly from Stage 12 upside down on your work surface and gather in one set of HT leads ready to be taped together then wind the tape around the leads to secure them. Repeat for the other set of leads.
When you’ve taped both sets of leads together, use cutters to trim the ends down.
This stage is now complete. Your tailpipe decals have been applied, and the HT leads on the underside of the cylinder head assembly have been taped and trimmed.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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