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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Issue 111 - Contains diecast bow & stern decorations, a wooden strip, and a masts cutting & shaping plan.
Decorations
Use a fine file to remove any burrs from diecast decoration parts PD28, PD63,PD22, PD21 and PD6, then coat them with metal primer and paint them gold.
Take the six PD21 crown pieces and use a fine brush to retouch them with red paint, as shown in the photo.
Five of the PD21 decorations should be set on the forward bulkhead of the vessel. Fix them onto the forward bulkhead, aligning theire tops with the tops gold columns already in place.
Use a 1.5mm drill bit to make two holes to the sides of the PD21 crown in the central position. The holes should be 2mm from the crown and be aligned with its top.
Now take the four PD6 pieces, which should be fixed onto the wall of the deck aft. Glue them next to the two round frames at either side of the wall. Set the pieces 3mm from the frames, aligning them with the centre of them.
Take the sixth PD21 crown and the decoration PD28. Use a fine brush to paint the decoration to finish the PD28 piece with white, red and blue, as shown in the photo.
Glue the PD21 crown decoration above the PD28 decoration between the two middle frames of the wall that borders the deck, centring them precisely.
Retouch the small holes on pieces PD63 with black paint. Then, using red, white, black and blue, paint the details of the decorations PD22, as shown in the photo.
Fix decoration PD63 and decoration PD22 into the slots under the mizzen wale of the left-hand side of the hull.
The two remaining decorations, PD63 and PD22, are to be fixed on the right-hand side of the hull. Fix them under the mizzen wale, as you did with the first two.
Gallery supports
Take the 3x3x300mm strip that came with this issue and the strip shaping tool strips that you received with Issue 73. The white arrow indicates the profile shape to use.
Shape the wooden strip with the help of the shaping tool. then apply a coat of wood primer and then paint it gold.
When fully dry, cut 20 pieces from the shaped strip, 8mm long. Then glue 10 pieces vertically below the lower gallery of the right-hand side of the hull, aligning them precisely with the columns above. Then fix the remaining 10 pieces of shaped strip on the left-hand side of the hull, arranging them symmetrically to the first.
Finishing and fitting the Stern gun port hatches made in Issue 110
Cut four hinges from the brass fret that you received with Issue 109. File off any rough edges, then coat the four pieces with black burnishing fluid.
Put two hinges on each of the two hatches of the stern gun port hatch that you assembled in Issue 110. The hinges must be flush with the top edge of the hatches and 1mm from the side edges.
Take the 0.15mm thread that came with a previous issue. With a simple knot, fix the end of the thread to the ring of the eyebolt of one of the hatches, then put a drop of glue onto the knot to seal it. Then cut the thread to 20mm long.
Repeat for the second stern gun port hatch.
Use a 1mm drill bit to make a centred hole 5mm above the upper edge of the stern gun port of the left-hand side of the hull.
Glue a hatch in the gun port, setting it flush with the straking. Introduce the thread into the hole and fix it with a little glue.
Mount the second hatch in the same position on right-hand side of the hull in the same way.
Masts and Bowsprit
For the masts, retrive the six wooden dowel left over from Issue 78 and the nine dowel received with Issue 79, and for the Bowsprit, take the 10x350mm dowel that came with Issue 40.
With this issue, we received a mast plan with measurements and code numbers of each section of the masts. In Issue 78, you made the larger section (3A) and the top mast (3B) of the mainmast.
With the help of the plan, make all the sections of the masts. Cut and taper the dowels as per the plan, then paint them a sapele colour as you did with the previous mast made in Issue 78.
The instructions show where to cut the dowels to obtain each section of mast. Each section of mast is identified by an ID code, (see the plan of the measurements of the masts).
Once made, place a piece of masking tape bearing the corresponding ID number on each section of mast. This will allow you to identify each piece in the coming assembly sessions. Carefully store them until needed.
Also carefully store the left over dowel as you will need them in future assembly sessions for making the yards.
Future issues:
Issue 112 - Contains diecast decorations, photo-etched brass decorations and a fighting top drilling plan.
Issue 113 - Contains two cannon kits, a wooden strip, hinges, hand rail plan and a masts, Yards & bowsprit assembly plan.
Issue 114 - Contains diecast forecastle decorations, coaming & centring rings, and brass decorations for the left-hand side of the hull.
Issue 115 - Contains diecast decorations for the left-hand side of the hull and 4mm deadeyes.
Issue 116 - Contains diecast decorations for the right-hand side of the hull, 4mm deadeyes, birch strips, and threads.
Issue 117 - Contains brown thread, 3.5mm deadeyes and photo-etched brass decorations for the left-hand side hull.
Issue 118 - Contains a bamboo rod, dummy gun barrels, 3.5mm deadeyes, and brass decoration parts for the right-hand side of the hull.
Issue 119 - Contains assorted threads and dummy gun barrels.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Issue 112 - Contains diecast decorations, photo-etched brass decorations and fighting top drilling plan.
Use a fine file to remove any burrs from diecast decoration parts PD25, PD26, PD53, PD52 and PD21 that came with this issue, then coat them with metal primer and paint them gold.
The eight decorations should be placed onto the right-hand side of the hull at the forecastle.
Take the two pieces PD25 and, using a very fine brush, detail the parts white and black, as shown in the instructions.
Glue and position the PD25 decorations into position as shown on the right-hand side of the model.
Take the two pieces PD26 and glue them in the spaces above the two gun ports.
Detail pieces PD21, PD52 and PD53, using a fine paintbrush and white, black and red paint. Then fix the four decorations PD21, PD52 and PD53 in the spaces between the seahorses. The PD21 pices should be set above the PD53 peices.
Now glue in place decorations PD21 and PD52 in the space shown, centring them. Piece PD21 should be placed above piece PD52.
Brass hull decorations:
To prevent air oxidation of the brass and these decorations eventually becoming dull, you can opt to apply a clear coat to these decoration parts before removing them from the brass fret.
Carefully cut the 10 brass decorations (AR1, AR2, AR3, AR4, AR5, AR6, AR7, AR8, AR9 & AR10) from the fret that you received with this issue.
The photo shows the position along the right-hand side of the hull of where to fix each decorative element, be careful not to get them mixed up.
Following the pattern, glue the 10 decorative elements in the slots at the height of the deck. Start from the bow and work towards the stern, and be sure to centre each piece.
Gun port hatches:
Take eight sapele-coloured hatches (181a) and four black hatches (181b) from those that you assembled and painted in the assembly session of Issue 108.
These 12 hatches should be fixed at this stage, as once the rigging is installed, access to these gun ports will be difficult.
Separate 24 hatch hinges from the die you received with Issue 109 and coat the pieces with black burnishing fluid.
Glue two hinges onto each of the 12 gun port hatches. The hinges should be flush with the top edge of the gun ports and 1mm from the side edges.
Take the 0.15mm thread that came with previous issues. With a simple knot, fix the end of the thread to the ring of the eyebolts of the hatches, then put a drop of PVA glue on the knot t seal it. Then cut off the thread at a length of about 20mm. Equip all the other hatches with thread in the same way.
Seven hatches should be fittted to the gun ports in the aft area of the model, indicated by white arrows in the instructions. The two black hatches 181b go on the gun ports of the third deck, and the five sapele-coloured hatches 181a on the gun ports of the upper two decks.
The five remaning hatches will be fixed to the gun ports in the forward area of the model, indicated by white arrows in the instructions.
Use a 1mm-diameter bit make a 5mm centered hole above the upper edge of the 12 gun ports indicated. The holes of the gun ports under the wales should be made under the wales themselves. The holes of the gun ports topped by a frame (third deck) may be above or below the frame, depending on its position.
Glue the hatches 181a and 181b onto the 12 gun ports. Then pass the threads in the holes previously made and fix them with a drop of glue. Check that the threads are taut and the hatches aligned.
Drilling the handrail of the fighting tops:
Before staring the assembly, please refer to the 112 update information provided here:
http://forum.model-space...=132629&#post132629
The plan, which came with this issue, will help you to locate the positions of the holes on the handrail of all of the fighting tops.
Take the lower fighting top of the mainmast C5, orient it as shown on the plan for drilling the tops.
Use a pencil and ruler, to mark the axes of C5. The axes will serve as reference points for calculating the distances of the holes around its handrail. The distances are shown on the drilling plan.
Take a pair of compasses and open them to 2.5mm. Keeping the point steady on the outer edge of the handrail, rotate C5 to lightly mark a circle in the centre of the handrail.
The dotted line circle show's how the circle looks on the railing of the fighting top C5. Now, identify the location of the holes on this line, following the measurements shown in the plan.
With pencil and ruler, mark the location of the holes on the circle drawn on the handrail of C5, following the measurements given in the plan. The use a 1mm bit to carefully drill holes at the marked point for each hole on the handrail.
Repeat the handrail drilling operation on the rest of the fighting tops, strictly following the measurements for each top as shown on the plan. Then retouch any marked area's with sapele coloured stain.
Future issues:
Issue 113 - Contains two cannon kits, a wooden strip, hinges, hand rail plan and a masts, Yards & bowsprit assembly plan.
Issue 114 - Contains diecast forecastle decorations, coaming & centring rings, and brass decorations for the left-hand side of the hull.
Issue 115 - Contains diecast decorations for the left-hand side of the hull and 4mm deadeyes.
Issue 116 - Contains diecast decorations for the right-hand side of the hull, 4mm deadeyes, birch strips, and threads.
Issue 117 - Contains brown thread, 3.5mm deadeyes and photo-etched brass decorations for the left-hand side hull.
Issue 118 - Contains a bamboo rod, dummy gun barrels, 3.5mm deadeyes, and brass decoration parts for the right-hand side of the hull.
Issue 119 - Contains assorted threads and dummy gun barrels.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Issue 113 - Contains two cannon kits, a wooden strip, hinges, hand rail plan and a masts, Yards & bowsprit assembly plan.
Fitting the forcastle, quarterdeck and upper quarterdeck guns.
Assemble and finish the two gun kits as before. Then prepare the tackle of these guns by fixing four eyebolts on four blocks.
With two blocks with eyebolts and 0.15mm diameter thread, make the side tackles of one of the two cannons (following the Steps 2 to 9 of Issue 104). Then repeat on the other 22 two-wheeled cannon that you have assembled during previous build sessions, (you should have 24 in total).
Install 10 of the guns on the forecastle of the model, in the positions shown. Fix the guns of the forecastle in the centre of the gun ports. Then, with a 0.5mm bit, make two 5mm holes to the left of each gun port and fix the eyebolts at the ends of the side tackle guns of the two cannons (see Issue 104).
Be careful: the central gun carriages facing the bow must be 2mm from the hole of the foremast. Their axes must therefore be at a slight angle to the axis of the deck.
Repeat to fit 10 guns on the quarterdeck and four guns on the upper quarterdeck.
Take the 0.5x6x300mm sapele strip received with this issue and smooth it with fine sandpaper. Then cut three 22mm-long pieces from the strip.
The three pieces are used to create the door in the bulwark of the aft deck. Glue the three pieces in the middle of the bulwark, then apply a coat of varnish on the door.
Cut four hinges from the brass fret which came with this issue and glue them onto the door, following the measurements shown.
Making the Quarterdeck handrails.
Lightly sand the 1.5x1.5x300mm strip that came with this issue. Coat it with sapele-coloured paint and a coat of varnish then set aside to fully dry.
Take the handrail diagram provided with this issue and place the handrail onto the plan and cut the handrail pices. Glue the peices together, then, make the second handrail.
Glue a handraill onto each inward side of the two ladders which connec the quarterdeck and upper quarterdeck.
Preparing the C1 bowsprit fighting top.
Before staring the assembly, please refer to the 113 update information provided here:
http://forum.model-space...=132629&#post132629
The plan that comes with this issue has drawings illustrating all of the pieces which make up each mast and the position of the blocks for the rigging etc.
Take the C1 bowsprit fighting top, turn it upside down and use a 0.5mm bit make four holes in the crosstree in the positions shown on the plan, (do not fit any eyebolts into these holes just yet, they are shown in step 18 for position purposes only).
Turn C1 over and drill two 0.5mm holes on the platform in the positions shown on the plan, (do not fit any eyebolts just yet, they are just shown in step 19 for position purposes only).
Now blacken the eyebolts you received with Issue 63 with burnishing fluid.
Take the 0.15mm thread and six of the 4mm blocks that came with Issue 90. Follow the diagram in Step 20 to secure each block to an eyebolt . Seal the knots with glue and cut-off the excess thread.
Glue an eyebolt with block into each of the four holes just drilled in the crosstree on the underside of C1, orient their loops as shown.
Turn C1 over, and glue an eyebolt with block into the two holes just drilled on the platform, orient their loops as shown.
Bowsprit assembly.
Take pieces 173 that came with Issue 98 and the pieces CD6 and CD7 that came with Issue 82. Paint the three caps (173 and CD7) black and paint the bracket CD6 a sapele colour.
Take the bowsprit 1A and glue the bracket CD6 on its thinner end, taking care to align it with the centre of the dowel. Before beginning, check the plans.
Referring to the plan, make the mast bindings on the bowsprit. To do this, wrap the 0.15mm thread around mast 1A carefully following all the measurements and positionings shown on the plan, then fix the ends with a drop of glue.
Then fix all the eyebolts and blocks onto the 1A mast, carefully following all the measurements and positionings shown on the plan.
Glue the crosstree of the top C1 in the notch on the bracket CD6. Be careful: the top must be perfectly centred with respect to the bowsprit and the bracket supporting it.
Take the two topmasts of the bowsprit 1B and 1C, which you prepared in Issue 111, and the three caps CD7 and 173. Assemble and glue the five pieces following the photos and plans, (for a snug fit, you may need to pack out the mast cap holes with thin wood strip). Ensure that the topmasts are aligned to one another.
Glue the assemblage of the two topmasts within the central opening of the top C1, making the end of the bracket CD6 enter the cap CD7. The foot of mast 1B must be flush with the bars of the crosstree.
To complete the assembly of the bowsprit, drilll 0.5mm holes in the two 173 mast caps in the positions shown in the plans. Then make up and fit the two eyebolts with two blocks each and the 4 eyebolts around the caps as shown in the plans.
Also drill two 0.5mm holes into the CD7 mast support, and make up and fit the two eyebolts with two blocks onto the CD7 part as shown in the plans.
Carefully store the bowsprit assembly and remaining parts from this issue until needed.
Future issues:
Issue 114 - Contains diecast forecastle decorations, coaming & centring rings, and brass decorations for the left-hand side of the hull.
Issue 115 - Contains diecast decorations for the left-hand side of the hull and 4mm deadeyes.
Issue 116 - Contains diecast decorations for the right-hand side of the hull, 4mm deadeyes, birch strips, and threads.
Issue 117 - Contains brown thread, 3.5mm deadeyes and photo-etched brass decorations for the left-hand side hull.
Issue 118 - Contains a bamboo rod, dummy gun barrels, 3.5mm deadeyes, and brass decoration parts for the right-hand side of the hull.
Issue 119 - Contains assorted threads and dummy gun barrels.
Issue 120 - Contains birch wooden strips, diecast frames of the left-hand side door and left side decorations.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Issue 114 - Contains diecast forecastle decorations, coaming & centring rings, and brass decorations for the left-hand side of the hull.
Start by removing any burrs from the diecast decoration parts, then prime and paint them gold. Then pick out the red, black and white details as shown, using a fine paintbrush.
These decorations should be fixed onto the left-hand side of the hull at the forecastle. Glue each of the decorations in the locations shown.
Detach decorations AR1 to AR10 from the brass fret sheet that you received with this issue. These pieces are to be fixed on the left-hand side of the hull in the postions shown. To find the locations for each decoration, look at the photo in Step 11 of Issue 112. Then glue them inn place, each decorations should mirror those already fixed onto the right-hand side of the hull.
Bow eyebolts
Take 10 eyebolts and darken them with black burnishing fluid. With a 0.5mm bit, make 10 holes in the centre of the strips that surround the bow platform, following the measurements shown in the instructions. Glue an eyebolt into each hole and orient the loop as shown.
Gun port hatches
Take eight of the sapele-coloured hatches 181a and four black hatches 181b that you prepared in Issue 108. Repeating Steps 14 to 17 of Issue 112, fit each hatch with two hinges and a piece of 0.15mm thread.
The photo shows the gun ports of the forward area of the left-hand side of the hull on which you have to mount five hatches. The procedure is the same as that explained in Steps 18 to 23 of Issue 112 for mounting the right-hand side hatches.
Then fit hatches to the indicated gun ports on the stern area with the remaining hatches.
Note - You should NOT proceed beyond Step 9 of Issue 114. Carefully store the remaining parts for later use.
Due to production problems, you should NOT proceed beyond Step 9 of Issue 114 until further notice.
New information will be provided shortly so that you will be able to proceed with your 114 build.
Also, please ignore the information regarding the Issue 103 CE3 fighting top, as this will also be further updated.
DeAgostini apologise for any inconvenience that this may cause. Magazines and parts will continue to be supplied as normal.
Once you have completed all three amends sheets: http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=13803
You can then continue with Step 10 and onwards of Issue 114, the assembly and placement onto the model, of the Foremast, Mainmast, Mizzenmast and Bowsprit.
Future issues:
Issue 115 - Contains diecast decorations for the left-hand side of the hull and 4mm deadeyes.
Issue 116 - Contains diecast decorations for the right-hand side of the hull, 4mm deadeyes, birch strips, and threads.
Issue 117 - Contains brown thread, 3.5mm deadeyes and photo-etched brass decorations for the left-hand side hull.
Issue 118 - Contains a bamboo rod, dummy gun barrels, 3.5mm deadeyes, and brass decoration parts for the right-hand side of the hull.
Issue 119 - Contains assorted threads and dummy gun barrels.
Issue 120 - Contains birch wooden strips, diecast frames of the left-hand side door and left side
decorations.
Issue 121 - Contains diecast frames of the right-hand side door and right-hand side bow decorations.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Issue 115 - Contains diecast decorations for the left-hand side of the hull and 4mm deadeyes.
Note: Steps 1 - 22 of Issue 115 can be carried out ahead of making the amendments noted for Issue 114.
Decorations
Remove any burrs from diecast decorations PD25, PD26, PD63, PD21, PD48 and PD49.
Prime and paint gold the three PD26 pieces. Then glue them in the positions shown on the quarterdeck left side area.
Prime and paint gold the two PD25 pieces and PD63 piece. Once the paint is dry, retouch them with white and black, as shown in the step 4 photo.
The glue the three decorations PD25 and PD63 in the spaces on the left-hand side of the hull indicated in the step 5 photo.
Prime and paint gold the PD21, PD48 and PD49 pieces. Then use a finebrush to finish them with white, red and black paint as shown in Step 6.
Glue decorations PD48 and PD49 in their places. Then fix the two pieces PD21 in the same location, but above the first two elements. The third piece PD21, the last remaining decoration, should be fixed in the central area on the left-hand side, above piece PD34 that you fixed in the assembly session of Issue 102.
Retouch decorations PD21 and PD28, fixed in one of the previous assembly sessions, with red, yellow, white, blue and black. The two pieces are set among PD48, PD49 and PD21 that you fixed earlier in this Stage.
Now, retouch decoration PD25, installed in a previous session on the left-hand side of the hull, with white and black paint. The piece is just above the right-hand end of the mizzen chainwale.
Belay pins
Take the belay pins that you received with Issue 84. Twenty of them must be inserted along the handrails of the forecastle in holes that you are now going to make.
With a 1.8mm-diameter bit, make seven holes on each of the siderails of the forecastle, following the measurements shown in the instructions.
Using the same drill bit, make six holes in the front railing of the forecastle. The position of the holes is shown in the instructions.
Now test-fit the 20 belay pins in the holes made in the previous two steps. Once you have checked that the pins fit into the holes without difficulty, fix them permanently with a drop of glue.
As you did previously, make two holes in each of the railings of the upper quarterdeck, following the measurements shown in the instructions. Then fix four belay pins in the holes of the upper quarterdeck
railings.
Foremast Shrouds
Retrieve the 5mm deadeyes painted in Issue 97 and the dark brown 0.5mm & light brown 0.15mm threads that came with previous issues.
Start by cutting 20 lengths of dark brown 0.5mm thread each 400mm long.
Following the deadeye tying diagram, tie a deadeye to the end of a piece of dark brown thread, then bind it for 7mm with the 0.15mm thread. Seal the knots with a drop of PVA glue. Repeat the operation with the other 19 pieces of thread.
Deadeye tool
You will need to prepare a tool to assemble all the deadeyes of the shrouds at the same height.
From a 2x5x300mm strip that came with a previous issue, cut a piece 23mm long.
Use a 0.5mm drill bit, to make three holes at each end of the piece of strip as shown in the instructions. then fit six pins (left over from the construction of the straking) into the holes.
Insert the pins of one end of the tool into the holes in the deadeye of a shroud, then put the other pins in the holes of the first deadeye of the foremast chainwale on the left-hand side of the hull.
Pass the free end of the shroud into the hole of the foremast of the lower top and wrap it around the thicker section.
Tighten the thread, then hold the bent-back end with a clip. To lock the shroud onto the mast, tie around the brown thread a piece of black 0.15mm thread (that came with with Issue 3), then put a little PVA glue onto the knot of the black thread.
Finally, remove the tool from the deadeye of the shroud and from that of the chainwale.
Now you have to connect the deadeye attached to the lower end of the shroud to the first forward deadeye of the chainwale. This is done by passing a piece of 0.15mm thread through their holes, as shown in the diagram.
Tighten the thread so that the two deadeyes are 10mm distant from one another. Fix the thread with a knot above the deadeye of the shroud and seal the knot with a drop of PVA glue.
In a similar fashion, mount the first shroud of the foremast on the right-hand side of the hull. Be careful: at the height of the top, the right-hand side shroud must pass over the left-hand side shroud installed previously.
Add another nine shrouds on each side of the model, as shown in the instructions. Take care that the distance between the deadeyes is always 10mm.
Carefully store the 4mm deadeyes received with this issue in a labelled bag.
Future Issues:
Issue 116 - Contains diecast decorations for the right-hand side of the hull, 4mm deadeyes, birch strips and threads.
Issue 117 - Contains brown thread, 3.5mm deadeyes and photo-etched brass decorations for the left-hand side hull.
Issue 118 - Contains a bamboo rod, dummy gun barrels, 3.5mm deadeyes, and brass decoration parts for the right-hand side of the hull.
Issue 119 - Contains assorted threads and dummy gun barrels.
Issue 120 - Contains birch wooden strips, diecast frames of the left-hand side door and left side decorations.
Issue 121 - Contains diecast frames of the right-hand side door and right-hand side bow decorations.
Issue 122 - Contains 0.25mm thread, deadeyes for the parrels and diecast decorations for the cat davits. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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