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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The top speed of the standard RB7 racer is about 30mph (47k/mh)
The two-speed gearbox will increase its top speed to about 37mph (60km/h) and will provide faster acceleration and less stress of the engine.Issues 101 - 104 contain medium-compound tyre and wheel sets.
Issue 101 - Contains a rear (medium compound) tyre, rear wheel and OZ RACING decals.
Issue 102 - Contains a rear (medium compound) tyre, rear wheel and OZ RACING decals.
Issue 103 - Contains a front (medium compound) tyre, rear wheel and OZ RACING decals.
Issue 104 - Contains a front (medium compound) tyre, rear wheel and OZ RACING decals.
Complete the assembly of the alternative medium tyre sets in a similar way that you assembled the tyres already provided. Ensure that you use liquid Superglue to bond the tyres onto the wheels after having prepared the wheel rims.
The already provided yellow tyres are Soft-compound.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 105 - Contains the two-speed main shaft a bearing and E--ring.
Preparing the chassis for the two-speed gearbox installation.
Note: you will eventually need to re-fit most of the components removed over the coming Stages, so put them into a bag labelled for each Stage.
Carefully follow the magazine instructions for the removal of the various components from the chassis to make way for the installation of the two-speed gearbox.
Carefully store the components provided with this Stage for later use.
Further preparation is carried out in issue 106, with the dismantling of the spur gear assembly.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 106 - Contains the first gear (46T), one-way bearing, 6x12mm & 6x14mm washers and dome-headed screws.
In this session, we continue preparing the RB7 for its two-speed gearbox by removing and dismantling the existing gearbox components, beginning with the spur gear, the main shaft and the brake assembly.
Note: as in the previous issue, many of the components that you remove will be needed again, so store them away safely in a labelled plastic bag.
Carefully follow the instructions for disassembly to leave the spur gear assembly as shown.
This session is complete. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 107 - Contains the second gear (43T) and bronze bushes (6x12x4mm)
Before you begin, make sure that the fuel tank is completely empty.
Disconnect the fuel pipe and exhaust pressure pipe and remove the left rear body mount.
Assembly of the two-speed gearbox part 1
Have to hand the components supplied in Issues 105 and 106.
Now you can begin to assemble the first parts of the two-speed gearbox, starting with the main shaft and bearing (both from Issue 105).
Slide the bearing over the shaft, and push it along until it rests against the wider section at the other end.
Secure the bearing by fitting the E-ring supplied in Issue 105 into the small groove in the shaft. Use needle-nose pliers to clip the E-ring into place.
Next, lower the one-way bearing onto the raised face of the 46T gear (both these parts were supplied with Issue 106). The holes in the bearing will fit over the two pins on the gear. firmly press the two parts together so that they fit snugly against one another, with no gap between them.
Turn the gear over and check that the metal of the bearing is sitting flush with the inside face of the gear. Then fix the parts together using the two 3x6mm dome-headed screws also supplied with Issue 106.
This session is now complete. Carefully store the parts provided with this stage until needed.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 108 - Contains a 2mm allen key, centrifugal clutch (pre-assembled) and a 5x4mm set screw.
Two-speed gearbox part 2
For this session, you will need the components supplied with the previous two Stages, so have these to hand before beginning.
Lay the 43T gear supplied with Issue 107 flat on your work surface, as shown above. Then push one of the bronze bushes, also supplied with Issue 107, into the centre of it. Make sure that the bush is sitting properly inside the centre of the gear, flush with the top of it.
Turn the gear over and push the second bronze bush supplied with Issue 107 into the centre. Again, make sure that the bush is sitting properly inside the gear, because correct fitting is crucial to the smooth operation.
The next stage is to remove the engine from the chassis. To begin, place your model on your work surface facing to the right. Next, you should seal the openings to the engine (the carburettor inlet port and the tailpipe) with adhesive tape to prevent any dust or dirt from getting into it.
Carefully follow the instructions for engine removal and carefully store the associated screws.
This stage is now complete, and the chassis of the RB7 now ready for the installation of the two-speed gearbox in the coming issues.
Store the parts with this stage until needed.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 109 - Contains a ball bearing, cup joint, set screw and plastic clip.
Two-speed gearbox part 3 - Assembly
For this session, along with the parts supplied with this issue, you will need all of the components for the two-speed gearbox received so far, as well as many of the parts that made up the existing gearbox, such as the differential housings and braking components, so have all of these to hand before beginning.
To begin, slide the 6x14mm washer, supplied with Issue 106, over the free end of the main shaft.
Next, fit the 46T 1st gear (assembled in Issue 107) onto the main shaft and slide it along the shaft and up against the bearing.Then slide the 6x12mm washer from Issue 106 along the shaft and up against the inside of the gear. Now fit the 43T 2nd gear (assembled in Issue 108) onto the main shaft, slide it along the shaft and up against the 46T gear.
Take the pre-assembled centrifugal clutch and place the set screw from Issue 108 into the threaded hole in its side. Turn the screw by hand a few times, then slide the clutch along the main shaft as you did with the gears, but only until it covers the flattened section marked by the dotted red lines. Make sure that the set screw inserted in the previous step is positioned directly above the flat.
Holding the parts in position, use an Allen key to tighten the set screw onto the flattened section of the shaft so that it will hold the clutch securely in place.
Slide the two gears along the main shaft and up against the centrifugal clutch. Your assembly should then resemble the one in the inset photo of the instructions, with a gap between the gears and the bearing. Now take the plastic clip supplied with this issue, and clip it over the shaft in the gap between the gears and the bearing.
Place the cup joint supplied with this issue upright on your work surface, as shown, and fit the ball bearing (also supplied with this issue) onto it.
Insert the 2mm set screw supplied with this issue into the threaded hole in the side of the cup joint, and tighten it by hand a few turns. Hold the bearing in place and slide the cup joint over the end of the main shaft, with the set screw positioned above the flattened section at the end of the shaft. Check that the set screw is sitting directly above the flat on the shaft, then tighten it onto the shaft using an Allen key.
Take the rear centre differential housing and place it over the cup joint, so that its inner face is up against the bearing fitted in Step 14. Now refit the brake components removed in Issue 106.
Finally, slide the front centre differential housing over the bearing at the front of the main shaft so that the bearing sits within the housing.
This session is now complete, and your two-speed gearbox is ready to be mounted onto the chassis of your model.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 110 - Contains a clutch shoe assembly, clutch shaft, shim, clutch bearings, washer and a dome-headed screw.
For this session, you will need the engine (removed in Issue 108), along with the two-speed gearbox completed in the previous stage.
Two-speed clutch assembly
The first step is to remove the existing clutch from the engine. Carefully follow the instructions for its removal.
Once you have removed the old clutch shaft, screw on the new, longer clutch shaft, supplied with this stage, then fit the new clutch shoe and shim provided with this stage.
Apply a small amount of high melt point grease onto the clutch shaft, then fit both clutch bearings and the new washer and dome headed screw provided with this stage.
Fitting the two-speed gearbox
Lower the two-speed gearbox assembly into the chassis, fitting its cup joint onto the free end of the front driveshaft. Now take the four countersunk screws removed in Issue 106 (three 3x12mm and one 3x10mm), and, holding the gearbox in place, turn the model over and use the screws to fasten the centre differential housings to the chassis. The shortest (3x10mm) screw goes into the hole just forward of the switch.
This stage is now complete, and the two-speed gearbox is now in place, ready to be joined by the remaining components.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 111 - Contains a two-speed clutch bell.
Remove the screw and washer from the end of the clutch shaft. Apply a light coat of grease onto the clutch bearing then fit the new two-speed clutch bell, securing it with the removed washer and screw.
You are now ready to re-install the engine, but before you tighten the engine mounting screws, you need to check the mesh of the gears as you did before. (Its a good idea to use thread lock on the engine mounting screws to prevent them from vibrating loose).
Make sure that the clutch bell’s gears are parallel to the spur gears, then turn the gears so that they grip the card and pull it into the space between them. Adjust the engine’s position as shown.
To check that the parts are correctly aligned and ready for use, lift the rear wheels of your model away from your work surface and turn the drivetrain a few times. If it will turn smoothly and without any clunking noise, the gears are set as they should be. If anything seems to be obstructing the smooth operation of the drivetrain, repeat Steps 14 to 19.
To ensure the smooth running of the gearbox, use a toothpick to apply some grease to the gears. Turn the drivetrain a few times to distribute the grease evenly.
Finally, ensure that the red, white and black RC cables are not in any danger of getting caught by the gears, by routing them safely to the outside of the switch housing.
This session is now complete, and the RB7 now has its new two-speed gearbox and its engine mounted on the chassis, ready for use.
In the coming issues, we will refit the balance of components removed to make way for the installation of the new gearbox, and then assemble the Supersoft tyre and wheel sets.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 112 - Contains a rear (supersoft compound) tyre, rear wheel and OZ RACING decals.
For this session, you will need the centre upper plate (the gearbox cover), the throttle and brake servo horn and linkages and the body mount, which were removed in previous issues, along with all the necessary screws.
Refit these components onto the chassis.
Store the rear tyre, wheel and decals until needed.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 113 - Contains a rear (supersoft compound) tyre, rear wheel and OZ RACING decals.
For this session, you will need the running body, battery box, RC box top, antenna and antenna tube, helmet air filter, air filter pipe and four body clips.
Refit these components onto the chassis.
Store the rear tyre, wheel and decals until needed.
In the next session, we will begin assembling and fitting the Supersoft
tyres & wheels.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 114 - Contains a front (supersoft compound) tyre, front wheel and 'OZ RACING' decals.
You will need the rear wheels, supersoft tyres and OZ Racing decals supplied with Issues 112 and 113.
Complete the assembly of the alternative rear Supersoft tyre sets in a similar way that you assembled the previous tyre sets.
Ensure that you use liquid Superglue to bond the tyres onto the wheels after having prepared the wheel rims as before.
You can choose to fit the rear supersoft tyres onto your model.
This completes this stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Issue 115 - Contains a front (supersoft compound) tyre, front wheel and OZ RACING decals.
For this final assembly session you will need the supersoft front tyres, front wheels and 'OZ RACING' decals supplied with this issue and Issue 114.
Complete the assembly of the alternative front Supersoft tyre sets in a similar way that you assembled the previous tyre sets.
Ensure that you use liquid Superglue to bond the tyres onto the wheels after having prepared the wheel rims as before.
You can choose to fit the front supersoft tyres onto your model.
This completes the RB7 101-115 extension assembly and the collection!Tomick attached the following image(s):
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