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She's looking fab John, all your efforts have certainly paid off.. well done indeed....  ... Love the build cradle too.... Regards Alan
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 Rank: Pro     Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Gandale wrote:She's looking fab John, all your efforts have certainly paid off.. well done indeed.... ... Love the build cradle too.... Regards Alan Hi Alan Thanks you for the kind words and the compliments, yes I'm quite happy with things at the moment and thinking ahead I've got a little question for you...  With the second layer of hull planking, where it comes up under the stern either side of the stern post, what kind of glue did you use? I imagine if you use normal PVA it will keep lifting away unless you physically hold it in place for half an hour. Can't use pins and there's no way of clamping in this location so your advice in advance would be much appreciated... Kind regards JohnP
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John Passmore wrote:Gandale wrote:She's looking fab John, all your efforts have certainly paid off.. well done indeed.... ... Love the build cradle too.... Regards Alan Hi Alan Thanks you for the kind words and the compliments, yes I'm quite happy with things at the moment and thinking ahead I've got a little question for you... With the second layer of hull planking, where it comes up under the stern either side of the stern post, what kind of glue did you use? I imagine if you use normal PVA it will keep lifting away unless you physically hold it in place for half an hour. Can't use pins and there's no way of clamping in this location so your advice in advance would be much appreciated... Kind regards JohnP Hi John, in answer to your question I did in fact use pins and alphatic PVA adhesive, pins were map pins applyed to the side of the plank using the head of the pin to hold in place.... Link to the relevant page on my diary may help to answer a lot of your questions relating to the transom transition.... Hope it helps.. http://forum.model-space...sts&t=5013&p=55
Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Gandale wrote:John Passmore wrote:Gandale wrote:She's looking fab John, all your efforts have certainly paid off.. well done indeed.... ... Love the build cradle too.... Regards Alan Hi Alan Thanks you for the kind words and the compliments, yes I'm quite happy with things at the moment and thinking ahead I've got a little question for you... With the second layer of hull planking, where it comes up under the stern either side of the stern post, what kind of glue did you use? I imagine if you use normal PVA it will keep lifting away unless you physically hold it in place for half an hour. Can't use pins and there's no way of clamping in this location so your advice in advance would be much appreciated... Kind regards JohnP Hi John, in answer to your question I did in fact use pins and alphatic PVA adhesive, pins were map pins applyed to the side of the plank using the head of the pin to hold in place.... Link to the relevant page on my diary may help to answer a lot of your questions relating to the transom transition.... Hope it helps.. http://forum.model-space...sts&t=5013&p=55
Regards Alan Hello Alan Thanks for your prompt response and excellent advice... It seems my concerns were well founded as a whole can of worms was uncovered!!!  . Mr T's advice on your post # 1094 and your following photos are very clear and together with your advice above, I think my concerns are allayed... Many thanks and Kind regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hi Everyone Here is December 2014 Progress, it's early as I shan't be doing any more building until January as I have other things to do. I'm still working through issue 35, marked out the hull as shown. Made a blue initially with the access hatch in measuring the 20mm height from the gunport line, which made the hatch 5mm too high...  Picked up the error when marking out the top gunport line... Had to do a bit of experimenting for the best method of cutting out the gunports. Issue 35 step 26 shows a little hole drilled in the centre of the gunport square...  Not sure why. Step 27 shows the gunport completely cutout and being trimmed...like magic!!! It alludes that the square was cutout using the craft knife... I SAY NO WAY, Mr DeAgostini, it is nigh on impossible to cut bamboo cross grain with just a craft knife!!! (and with slightly rheumatic hands)...  So I devised a method of drilling a row of little holes just inside the vertical lines and then it was just a matter of joining the dots with the craft knife... Initially used a pin drill but that was time consuming, so in deference to my penurious nature went and splashed out on an El Cheapo mini rotary tool kit for $20 - it's absolute rubbish for doing anything but drilling little holes... But I can bin it at the end of this little caper... Just got to tidy up the port holes as some of them are slightly undersize, then repaint some of the black paint inside... Progress pics below. Kind regards to All with best wishes for Christmas and happy building in 2015... John Passmore attached the following image(s):
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Lovely work John, she's certainly coming along nicely.... .. Cutting the bamboo with a craft knife isn't impossible but will admit it is very difficult to cut cross grain, tend to end up going through lots of blades in the process... .. We all find our own ways of cutting out gun ports and for me I used my trusty dremel with a routing bit attached... got to ensure you keep the dremel under control through as it does have a tendancy to try and skip away from you.... method worked for me and from there simply sanded the edges smooth and to the correct size..... .. As for the hole in the middle, some builders use this to help find the centre point for the gun barrel by drilling through to the dummy gun support behind.... ... Look forward to your return in January.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2013 Posts: 284 Points: 859 Location: Cape Town, South Africa
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Lovely work you did so far. I am also at the gunports, but only after I had fitted all the decks. "Rather try and fail than had failed to try".Sovereign of the Seas Model Space forum: Marcel's build
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Gandale wrote:Lovely work John, she's certainly coming along nicely.... .. Cutting the bamboo with a craft knife isn't impossible but will admit it is very difficult to cut cross grain, tend to end up going through lots of blades in the process... .. We all find our own ways of cutting out gun ports and for me I used my trusty dremel with a routing bit attached... got to ensure you keep the dremel under control through as it does have a tendancy to try and skip away from you.... method worked for me and from there simply sanded the edges smooth and to the correct size..... .. As for the hole in the middle, some builders use this to help find the centre point for the gun barrel by drilling through to the dummy gun support behind.... ... Look forward to your return in January.... Regards Alan Hi Alan Thanks for the compliment and yes I found that drilling lines of holes made for easier progress of the knife cross-grain. The knife kept jamming otherwise. I will post Jan 2014 progress shortly Kind regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Marcel wrote:Lovely work you did so far. I am also at the gunports, but only after I had fitted all the decks. Hi Marcel Thanks for the compliment. We have only received the first 2 decks so far. Regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hi All Following is my progress for January 2015. Have received up to issue 46 but still working laboriously through issue 37 - oh yes and I finally received the missing issue 21 a couple of weeks ago...so now I have 4 unused packs of bamboo planks...  All gun ports now cut out and trimmed to specified size in accordance with issue 35...although I do have a question regarding the stern-most gun port on the lower gun deck. What is this gun port for?...as the dummy cannon support piece was cut away as per issue 14 step 1...  First 2 pics are showing vertical reinforcement I was obliged to make on that little narrow bit between the access hatch and the gun port... A little too much pressure on the craft knife and it caved in... . I had to reinforce in a few other areas as well when the bonding between some planks cracked apart... The following pics show brown planking complete both sides per issue 36. Note my high tech construction aid - an elastic band to hold down the front end of planks while the glue cures... Working on the white planks now (issue 37) and completed the first 14 rows on one side. Had a spot of bother in bonding the ends that bend up under the transom and that's where I found out what that stern-most gun port is for...to provide an anchorage point for my trusty elastic band...  Happy building to All Regards JohnP John Passmore attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite    Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Lovely work John, looking fab It's amazing how creative we become when it comes to holding down planks Steve
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Definitely coming along very nicely John, looking great.... .. Don't be to concerned about the last gunport on the lower row, just make sure it is in the correct position and the right size. This gunport will end up being a closed port as can be seen on the last pic of this page on my diary.... http://forum.model-space...ts&t=5013&p=156
Keep up the good work, you're doing a great job.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Administration  Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,251 Points: 23,841 Location: East midlands
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Hi Alan, Coming on a treat, WTG. Some ingenious clamping methods in use as well. Keep up the good work. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/05/2010 Posts: 233 Points: 708 Location: Leigh on Sea
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Nice work ...I attended the same school as your namesake S.H.S H.M.S Victory
H.M.S Victory X Section
H.M.S Surprise under the bench
D-51
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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stevie_o wrote:Lovely work John, looking fab It's amazing how creative we become when it comes to holding down planks Steve Thanks for looking in and nice words Steve. Yeah - a simple solution innit?... Regards JohnP
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Gandale wrote:Definitely coming along very nicely John, looking great.... .. Don't be to concerned about the last gunport on the lower row, just make sure it is in the correct position and the right size. This gunport will end up being a closed port as can be seen on the last pic of this page on my diary.... http://forum.model-space...ts&t=5013&p=156
Keep up the good work, you're doing a great job.... Regards Alan Hi Alan Thanks for the compliments... Yes I found a good use for that last gun port... I've got another little problem here - I've checked the Stern Post (item 62c from issue 39) for fitting in the slot and it is far too thick to go in. Using a vernier, it measures 4.9mm thk. On checking the Keel pieces from issue 10, they are 3.6mm thk. An obvious disparity as they link up don't they?... So I've got 2 choices here...sand item 62c down to parity (and it won't be so even) or I can make a new piece using a piece of fret... . Have you heard of this problem before? Regards JohnP
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Hi John, pleased to hear you are happy about the last gunport.... Now for the stern post and what I see as your options... This answer is not as straight forward as you may think as I had a mountain of problems with this piece and it was all down to my own carelessness and nothing to do with the instructions. Rather than try to explain it all again I would direct you to pages 66 and 67 of my diary, read the problem for yourself and how I went about correcting it... It was a very delicate and tricky fix, took time but it all worked out in the end..... Remember also, I cladded my keel and stern post with 1mm walnut sheet so in effect they are 6mm wide and not 4, this was done to match the walnut planking on the hull. http://forum.model-space...sts&t=5013&p=66
I have checked the thickness of my keel again, it is 6mm and did not have to alter the thickness of the stern post in any way but did find it to be very tight fit into the channel created by the 2mm overhang with the planking... Because of the angle the planking strakes come in to create the overhang the gap the stern post goes into will be slightly narrower... I very carefully filed away some of the inside of the overhanging planks down the complete length, I then inserted the stern post from the top and slid it downwards very slowly, checking to see where it was sticking and used reverse action flat head tweezers to prize the gap open slightly... had to be very very careful doing this to ensure I didn't apply too much pressure and crack or break any planks... Can tell you my heart was in my mouth a few times but it worked in the end for me.... Having said all that, I'm not so sure this would work for you because of the differences in thicknesses you say you have but it is something you can look at but would be a very brave fix to undertake.... In your case, I would cut a channel 0.5mm deep, 2mm wide (the same size as your overhang), down the length of either side of sternpost to give an easier fit... This in effect would give you the same finish as I achieved when adding the 1mm walnut either side leaving it 2mm short from the edge. Not sure what tools you have to do this but with care and attention you shouldn't notice any difference in thickness..... .. Of course, you have your option also of making a new stern post out of some spare fret of the required thickness, if you have any spare that is.... .. You could also reduce the size of the overhang to make fitting easier but you need some overhang to hide the join between the stern post and the false keel plus file either edge of the stern post to make it a little narrower and easier to insert.... Sorry this is probably not the straight forward answer you were looking for but having gone through my diary on this it brought back some memories of how I dealt with a difficult and challenging problem.. I'd be happy to exchange further ideas with you before you tackle the problem but you have to choose the option you are most comfortable with and having seen your progress to date I feel confident you will fix this problem too.... Good luck with it and look forward to seeing how you get on.... Best regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hi Alan Thank you for your long missive! It was very informative... I've had a look at your pages 66 and 67 and whilst it has given me ideas, my problem is slightly different than yours was... Your problem was horrendous and definately would have given me heart burn!... I'm pretty sure I can make the stern post fit in the slot, but as I said, it is of a different thickness to the keel piece by a margin of around 1.5mm so there will be a step at where the two pieces join... This must be a design/production error. I have laid the 2 pieces out on my desk so you can see it better... and I think the solution is to gradually sand/file the step smoothly into the keel piece... What do you think Alan - it might look a bit weird?... Regards JohnP John Passmore attached the following image(s):
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John Passmore wrote:Hi Alan Thank you for your long missive! It was very informative... I've had a look at your pages 66 and 67 and whilst it has given me ideas, my problem is slightly different than yours was... Your problem was horrendous and definately would have given me heart burn!... I'm pretty sure I can make the stern post fit in the slot, but as I said, it is of a different thickness to the keel piece by a margin of around 1.5mm so there will be a step at where the two pieces join... This must be a design/production error. I have laid the 2 pieces out on my desk so you can see it better... and I think the solution is to gradually sand/file the step smoothly into the keel piece... What do you think Alan - it might look a bit weird?... Regards JohnP Hi John, a pic always gives greater clarity and having seen it I would do it this way... First, where the stern post goes into the slot, file the edges slightly to narrow the width (as if you were going to make it wedge shaped), file just enough to get it started into the slot and be gently pushed home. Correct me if I'm wrong but it is your intention to paint the lower hull. If this is correct then I would use planking strips left over from the second layer and apply along the lengths of both sides of the keel. This would bring the keel a lot closer to the width of your stern post.... Once done and you paint then it wouldn't be noticed... Just another thought for you to consider and I think better than trying to narrow the stern post without it being noticed... Hope this helps. Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Gandale wrote:John Passmore wrote:Hi Alan Thank you for your long missive! It was very informative... I've had a look at your pages 66 and 67 and whilst it has given me ideas, my problem is slightly different than yours was... Your problem was horrendous and definately would have given me heart burn!... I'm pretty sure I can make the stern post fit in the slot, but as I said, it is of a different thickness to the keel piece by a margin of around 1.5mm so there will be a step at where the two pieces join... This must be a design/production error. I have laid the 2 pieces out on my desk so you can see it better... and I think the solution is to gradually sand/file the step smoothly into the keel piece... What do you think Alan - it might look a bit weird?... Regards JohnP Hi John, a pic always gives greater clarity and having seen it I would do it this way... First, where the stern post goes into the slot, file the edges slightly to narrow the width (as if you were going to make it wedge shaped), file just enough to get it started into the slot and be gently pushed home. Correct me if I'm wrong but it is your intention to paint the lower hull. If this is correct then I would use planking strips left over from the second layer and apply along the lengths of both sides of the keel. This would bring the keel a lot closer to the width of your stern post.... Once done and you paint then it wouldn't be noticed... Just another thought for you to consider and I think better than trying to narrow the stern post without it being noticed... Hope this helps. Regards Alan Hi Alan Many thanks for your prompt response... Yes - I've decided to paint the hull per the Official Build. I don't feel confident enough to stain it like yours but certainly would have preferred to do it that way as it looks terrific... Yes that is how I intend to fit the stern post - chamfer the length both sides by 2mm back from the edge. That will create a kind of long wedge which should push straight into the slot... I've since noticed that the supplied part 62c is also overlength by about 15mm, and as both ends are angled correctly I'm wondering if this is the correct piece for this kit at all?... Using the white planks to blend in to the stern post is a great idea Alan and I shall give it consideration, but it does mean I'll have to run this modification the full length of the keel - up to the prow assembly to achieve continuity. Many thanks for the tip... Kind regards JohnP
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