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Joined: 26/03/2010 Posts: 146 Points: 473 Location: Plymouth
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Well the planking is beginning. Tomo and everyone I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on double planking. I did it on my Bounty build and it made the ship structurally sound.It also allowed for filler and to give us less competent builders a chance at a half decent model. A lot more work but I'm thinking it's worth it. ArtfulBodger Previous Build: HMS. Bounty
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If you're going for the natural wood finish then I'd definitely consider it. My dads currently building the bounty, and hes just started with a layer of venier over the planks and it looks brilliant. True its very time consuming but its worth it to cover up the inevitable mistakes everyone makes - scratches, dents, gaps etc Tom
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Joined: 27/03/2010 Posts: 188 Points: 614 Location: Llandudno
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I'm seriously concidering double planking but wondering if it will effect the dimensions of the other parts that will need to be attached to the hull Bob
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Good point. It did run through my mind but I didn't have an answer. ArtfulBodger Previous Build: HMS. Bounty
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Joined: 23/04/2010 Posts: 84 Points: 234 Location: Redruth
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Most second planking is only 1mm so it should not make a great difference to the overall size will def sort the gaps etc. Built Billings Le Bayard Mamoli Golden Hind Corel Shenandoah In Progress AL King of the Mississippi Mantua HMY Britannia 1893/HMS Victory 1/98 Stopped Yet to start AL Zuiderzee Botter (Pre laser)Fun fun fun Constructo HMS Victory Caldercraft HMS Victory Deag HMS Victory
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Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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double planking is the way to go,firstly if you have to use a lot of filler the dimensions have changed anyway,but if you are to doubleplank you can afford to use more sanding so you have a good prepared surface for the veneer,I must mention here that it is important to select the different colours of the veneer and use them on each side to equalise the overall appearance of the model,i.e.lighter shade at top darkening as you go lower,yes these strips do vary quite a lot,and cut out your gunports as you go. 102 cannons is a lot of holes.choose carefully the veneer to use,and shop around for the best deal,don;t forget that some come in 1mt lengths,and some in 500mm.lengths.width is also a consideration,I've found 5mm,for this size model,if you want scale size I think 4mm. would be better.hope that clears up a few points. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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I'm not sure that the conclusion is as clear cut as Karl suggests. I think there is still room for personal preference. My first hull build was HMS Halifax and at that time I wasn't aware of single or double planking and just did what the kit told me to do. I now know that Halifax was a single planked model! I then did HMAV Bounty which was a double planked kit and it's true that as Karl says it's easier to cover up initial mistakes with lots of filler etc. You also need to be aware of the hints that Colin (Zeptrader) has brought to our attention again regarding the importance of getting the first planking right or the second planking will never be good. I'm regarding Victory as a challenge to get it right as a single planked hull. My Halifax was far from perfect but I think it is an acceptable level of finish.   To get it right I am really going to take my time with the preparation in terms of fairing the ribs and shaping each length of planking, as necessary. At the moment on Victory, I am still setting the hull and making sure all ribs are glued and the keel is in line. Mike T
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Joined: 30/06/2010 Posts: 242 Points: 720
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There have been some good points raised here, and as has been said, I think it is a matter of preference. I'm considering a lime veneer for Victory as I've found a few strips kicking about and the colour seems almost identical to the supplied planks. Like Karl says however, you do get alot of variation so maybe its a case of buying plenty and selecting the best shades? Good work on your Bounty Mike Tom
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thomasmoult wrote:Good work on your Bounty Mike Tom Actually Tom, the pictures are of Halifax showing what I was able to achieve with a single planking technique. Mike T
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Damit, I was hoping you wouldnt notice Its looking good, the HALIFAX I mean Best wishes, Tom
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karl1113 wrote:double planking is the way to go,firstly if you have to use a lot of filler the dimensions have changed anyway,but if you are to doubleplank you can afford to use more sanding so you have a good prepared surface for the veneer,I must mention here that it is important to select the different colours of the veneer and use them on each side to equalise the overall appearance of the model,i.e.lighter shade at top darkening as you go lower,yes these strips do vary quite a lot,and cut out your gunports as you go. 102 cannons is a lot of holes.choose carefully the veneer to use,and shop around for the best deal,don;t forget that some come in 1mt lengths,and some in 500mm.lengths.width is also a consideration,I've found 5mm,for this size model,if you want scale size I think 4mm. would be better.hope that clears up a few points. I'm thinking Lime 1x5 mm. Looks incredibly nice when sanded and oiled!
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 Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Just want to add something to this, when I was building the hull of the Bounty (Del Prado partworks) it was double planked, the first layer was if I remember around 1 - 1.5mm thick, pretty standard for the first planking, then the second was a very very thin veneer, this was able to wrap around all those awkward curves without the use of plank benders ect. If you go the way of a second planking bear the thickness in mind, as thin as you can get it. But if you read the the Simple Planking link i've put up you will read that the second layer of planking works pretty much the same way, so would it not be better and in fact less work to attempt a good first planking?
If you stick to the rules of planking (after reading the article) and taking your time then the result would be far better? This is just my opinion and I'm not saying a second layer is wrong, far from it, but your doubleing the work needed.
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Zeptrader wrote:Just want to add something to this, when I was building the hull of the Bounty (Del Prado partworks) it was double planked, the first layer was if I remember around 1 - 1.5mm thick, pretty standard for the first planking, then the second was a very very thin veneer, this was able to wrap around all those awkward curves without the use of plank benders ect. If you go the way of a second planking bear the thickness in mind, as thin as you can get it. But if you read the the Simple Planking link i've put up you will read that the second layer of planking works pretty much the same way, so would it not be better and in fact less work to attempt a good first planking?
If you stick to the rules of planking (after reading the article) and taking your time then the result would be far better? This is just my opinion and I'm not saying a second layer is wrong, far from it, but your doubleing the work needed. aye aye that is a very good point, it will massively double the amount of work needed. However there are a few points I need to consider; this is my first ever wooden ship build, and whilst I'm very proud of the planking I've done so far (much better than I thought), I know that some areas won't be perfect, especially the curve at the keel. Also, I personally think that a veneer, especially lime, looks much better than the supplied wood as I'm going for the natural finish so have to get a good look on the wood! Best wishes mate, Tom
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