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 Rank: Elite        Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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HunkOfFunk wrote:Thanks for the feedback chsp. I've been seeing a lot of discussion around oils v acrylic with regards to this model. I can see the benefits of oils but I've heard varying reports on the drying times of oils. How quickly do the fast drying oils set? The oils are mixed with turpentine and streaked for some of the oil and rust effects which dry very fast (10mins) and other areas like the turret section was wiped off once applied to give the "dull" appearance and also takes minutes to dry. The only time oils take a long time to dry is when they are put on strait from the tube and this can take days depending on the thickness it has been applied but with these applications it's not a problem. Spencer
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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/02/2015 Posts: 4 Points: 12 Location: UK
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Thanks for the feedback. I'm sure it won't be the last question I have for you. Finding your posts most valuable.
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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HunkOfFunk wrote:Thanks for the feedback. I'm sure it won't be the last question I have for you. Finding your posts most valuable. No problem and feel free to ask  Spencer
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Once again using techniques with different applications from Airbrushing and pastels, to an idea that popped into my head while having a cup of Tea! Picture 1 shows the test pieces primed once again with Tamiya White fine surface primer. This was then given some shading around the panel areas with Alclads Exhaust.( picture 2)Picture 3 shows an area masked off and given a coat of Vallejo Medium Sea Grey. Picture 4 shows the parts given a good dry brushing using Vallejo white to blend out the Airbrushing. Pictures 5&6 show Winsor and Newton oils added for rust and streaks (Burnt Sienna and Black) Picture 7 shows some detailing added with a Nuln Oil Wash Pictures 8&9 show the overall effect with more rust and weathering added. Tea Weathering (what!) Pics 10&11Brainstorm! Ok this was purely experimental but seems to have worked and looks ok. I placed to 2 bags of the best (Yorkshire) tea into a bowl and filled it up with boiling water. (as if to make a very very strong cupper) and then left to cool down until lukewarm. I then placed the newly primed parts into the bowl of strong Tea and gently removed them allowing the “Scum” of the tea to settle on the surfaces. Allowed to dry and “Voila” some nice staining! (Maybe not to everyones taste though.. Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Cockpit Tube Paint Test
The cylindrical cockpit tube was first given a coat of Tamiya Fine Surface primer white before the panel lines where highlighted using Alclads Exhaust and Stainless Steel using an Airbrush. Certain panels where then picked out and given a coat of Vallejo Silver Grey (152) Once completely dry the sections where run under a tap of warm water and extensive rubbing with the thumb to “Wear” away the paint in certain areas. Once allowed to dry (on the radiator was a good place) dry brushing was done all over using a mixture of Silver Grey on some areas and Pure white on others. More panels where picked out and details added with pastels and more dry brushing until I had got the final effect I was looking for. Oils where added for the rust and the panel lines picked out using the Nuln Oil from Citadel. The second Tube shows the same process but by changing some of the colours to a more “White” base coat and less weathering but at the same time getting a good effect. Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Absolutely fantastic results with your weathering. Its the benchmark build as I always knew it would be Outstanding  J “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Some really nice weathering effects there Spencer. That tea weathering looks suprisingly good, how are you getting such a nice finish with the white pimer, are you spraying multiple coats as I found when I tried using it that it was very thin to go on and had a tendency to look like tiny pools round the edges of details. I've tried heating it up, giving it a good old shake but still struggle to get a good finish with it. I have another can I will try in case its just that can but failing that I think I will revert back to my trusty grey and give it a base coat, although I am still deciding between matching a colour to the DeAgostini parts or alternative. 
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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jase wrote:Absolutely fantastic results with your weathering. Its the benchmark build as I always knew it would be Outstanding J Cheers Jase  Can't mess up now can I!  Spence
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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davetwin wrote:Some really nice weathering effects there Spencer. That tea weathering looks suprisingly good, how are you getting such a nice finish with the white pimer, are you spraying multiple coats as I found when I tried using it that it was very thin to go on and had a tendency to look like tiny pools round the edges of details. I've tried heating it up, giving it a good old shake but still struggle to get a good finish with it. I have another can I will try in case its just that can but failing that I think I will revert back to my trusty grey and give it a base coat, although I am still deciding between matching a colour to the DeAgostini parts or alternative. Hi Dave Strange that your having different results with your white primer. I make sure that the ambien temp of the room is cool and although the can is given a good shake I never give it more than 10 seconds worth. I spray wet on wet from about 6 inches away making sure it has a good covering then wait about 30 seconds then another coat and that's it. Allow it to stand and dry for about 5 mins then place it on the radiator to thouroughly dry. It sounds like to me that the paint particles are starting to dry before they hit the panels, hence the pitting. Spencer
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Rank: Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,236 Points: 6,828 Location: East Sussex
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Hello Spencer, Just a great build thank you for posting Regards Trev. Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
OcCre- Santa-Maria (Kit).
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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tf64 wrote:Hello Spencer,
Just a great build thank you for posting
Regards
Trev. Cheers Trev just some weathering techniques at the mo and the build to follow at some point  Spencer
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Stunning Spencer, the work is simply stunning.... Regards Alan
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2012 Posts: 651 Points: 1,903 Location: croydon
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Hi Spencer . That looks like an awesome job you have done  . I cant wait to see more of your build and keep the pics coming. Best regards. Mark
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/02/2015 Posts: 4 Points: 12 Location: UK
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This is looking amazing. How are you using your pastels? Are you just adding some water?
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Fab work Spence, certainly the build to follow for weathering techniques, interesting stuff Steve
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Many thanks chaps Only 2 years to go but hope to bring as many tips to the fore as I can. Some new some not so. Spence
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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HunkOfFunk wrote:This is looking amazing. How are you using your pastels? Are you just adding some water? Pastels are applied dry HunkOfFunk after creating a powder from the pastel sticks. Using a good quality brush the powder is worked into the area and any excess blown away. Spencer
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2011 Posts: 434 Points: 1,309 Location: milton keynes
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Fantastic Spence i for one really appreciate the Guide your providing on "how its done" for all the different techniques regards Dan Built - MP4/23, Zero, Deagostini Falcon, Model Airways 1903 Wright Flyer, Senna Mp4/4.
Working - Mclaren M23 1/8th scale to complement the Deagostini MP4/23 & Mp4/4
on the bench, Model Airways Sopwith Camel.
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Many thanks Dan for your kind words as long as it helps in one way or another then I'm happy Spence
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2011 Posts: 434 Points: 1,309 Location: milton keynes
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Spencer Certainly helps me! ive read all sorts of books on weathering etc but just can't seem to understand a lot of the techniques they talk about (pastels oils etc but then all the books seem to be about armour or planes) you at least tell us exactly what your using and how to use it, Something as simple as warm water and a rub of a thumb brings out a great worn look. I will be following all your techniques when I use an old AMT millennium kit as a test model, hopefully it should give me some confidence in applying to the deagostinin one Regards Dan Built - MP4/23, Zero, Deagostini Falcon, Model Airways 1903 Wright Flyer, Senna Mp4/4.
Working - Mclaren M23 1/8th scale to complement the Deagostini MP4/23 & Mp4/4
on the bench, Model Airways Sopwith Camel.
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