So, the first stage, I was happy to have the opportunity to learn from my own mistakes (read: I had to order a replacement shipment and start from scratch.)

This is what I found out, which probably will be useful throughout the whole build:

- For the number plate, the right order is to: 1. stick the wire pieces into the holes, 2. use a drop of superglue on the bottom side, and allow the capillary effect to do the rest. If you switch the order of doing things - glue first, then the wire - you'll get glue on the visible side, spoiling the fun.

- Superglue is not the best option to glue brass to white metal. Better to stick with manual and use epoxy (which I hated at first but learned to like)

- The brass smokebox, rolled tightly for delivery, has an uncanny ability to spring back to that former shape. If it's covered with glue, and the two ends will fold over each other, then the glue will spread to the outside.

The last item was the disaster that made me restart the model. So, after looking at what I have in my disposal, and thinking a bit about what goes where, what problems I had on my first try, and where I don't want my glue to go, here's the plan - which proved to be bulletproof in implementation:

1. Dry-fit and secure with screws the smokebox door ring. NO GLUE YET! This will help the smokebox to retain its desired shape when gluing in boiler hinge joint.

2. Dry-fit boiler hinge joint, see how it goes, look for the way to fit it with the least amount of movement and corrections.

3. Use the provided stirrer to mix the epoxy, but use a cocktail stick to spread it - it's easier to control the amount and spread this way. I found out that 4 small-ish globs on the end of cocktail stick were enought for the whole circumference of smokebox.

4. Position the hinge joint, screw the screws in, clamp, leave to dry.

5. Unscrew the smokebox door ring, repeat the epoxy dance, put it back and secure with screws.

I found this sequence to be absolutely effortless and clean. The fact that opposite end of smokebox is always shaped properly by the second ring really helps. But on my way I also found another use for cocktail sticks - cut for the right length, they make perfect spacers to further shape the smokebox for effortless fitting of the ring during gluing:



OK, that's it for today. I'll post more photos after I'm done with next delivery :-)

Time spent on this stage (including a redo): about 6 hours.
Time spent total: about 6 hours.

What a pleasure for someone to be brave enough to post a diary showing a warts and all journey. I think we are all mature enough on this forum to admit that we sometimes make mistakes and wish we could wind the clock back a few hours. I most certainly do.

Rest assured Michu, I doubt you can make a mistake that someone else hasn't made before you. Nobody was born a good model builder! Fortunately there is a good community here that will help when needed.

I for one am looking forward immensely to following this build

I'm using this one.
The disaster on first try was done using their 90 second epoxy. Well, it was done using the lack of imagination, but you get my gist ;-)

I'm using Loctite thin where I want it to flow using capillary action, and gel everywhere else.

A small update. Because of lack of time, and just being able to find half an hour every now and then, I wasn't taking pictures while working on my D51, so it's just a report of the current state of affairs. I'm all done up to stage 20 (package 05) and it's going well - love this model, it's really nicely done.















Just dry-fitting here:



And a question. What would be the best to clean a slight epoxy residue that I have left in some places? Acetone perhaps? What about the light fogging / whitening from superglue? Would acetone work here, or maybe a superglue debonder?

Thanks for looking,
Michał

I bought superglue remover from Lowes and it worked a treat to remove the fogging from superglue.I sanded the epoxy, but I painted my d51.If you want to leave it brass you probably don't want to sand it unless you are really careful.
Carl

Hi Michu

Looking great and nice work.

Try superglue remover for the blush and splashes, are you storing your parts in a sealed plastic container or the like as this is how the bloom can appear as although superglue goes off fast there are still fumes coming of it for several hours so putting them in a sealed box or the like can cause the bloom. Just leave the parts in the open for 24 hours then store them and you should get no more bloom appearing. Hope this helps.

Regards

Andy

Looking good Michu, it amazes me the level of detail on this the final model is a work of art, keep up the good work

Thanks :)
I'm fully decided that I'm just going to paint the wheels to provide some interesting contrast to the undercarriage, but will leave the rest of the model in brass. Maybe I'll paint some additional details, if I will feel like it, but not much and only if I really think it makes sense - like with wheels.

Hi Michu

Looking great and nice work, just a small tip on the loco's running gear across the 4 drive wheel's, make sure all the nuts and bolts are assembled exactly as the instructions describe as getting just one the wrong way round will prevent the wheels and the running gear from turning properly. I had one the wrong way round and it too me awhile to find the offending nut/bolt .

Regards

Andy