Hi Derek .
I must say what an awesome build you have done .
Truly inspirational.
I very much look forward to your next instalment.
Best regards.
Mark

Great work Derek, she's starting to take shape now

Al

Derek

Its really taking shape now and certainly looks the part.

Very well done.

Awesome work Derek.

I very nearly purchased one of these the other day, the only reason I didn't was because I realised I wouldn't have anywhere to put this beast once completed

Hi Dave and KP,

Thanks for taking the time to look in and the comments.

This build obviously has a long way to go and I`m still at the basics.

There is a huge amount of detail to be added and I`ve not read the instructions all the way through yet.

A small list of the things I can remember of the top of my head.

Elsan Toilet (YES)

Hand held torch and screwdriver

Flares and launcher

Bunk with oxygen cylinders stowed underneath

So, as you can see lots to do.

Next update soon.

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)

Wow this has moved on since my last look in. looking fab. this is turning out to be a cracking little kit and your doing a top job

Jase

Hi All,

Well it`s up date time.

Been back at work today, having had six days off. Got so involved forgot to do the update yesterday, until it was to late and had to get to bed.



A lot of the fuselage sections build up using the same method.

That said, when you get to the rear sections things change. Reason is that the underside starts to rise as you get further to the tail end.
Therefore the fuselage ribs are not set square to the floor panels.

There may be many ways to get around this anomaly, but this is how set about it.

Here we go:

I`m trying to get as much of the fuselage put together in it`s relevant sections and will then concentrate on the detailing.

So to that end this is issue 23.

Parts 102 and 115 make up the floor base.Pic 1


Make sure the floor and the spar underneath are set at 90 degrees or you are going to give yourself a serious headache.
(Also make sure you get the orientation of the two parts is correct).

This is where you should be.Pic 2


So, now you remove the first rib from the fret and clean up as required.
When fitted to the relevant end of the floor section, you will be at this stage.Pic 3


This is where things make (in my mind) a major difference worth taking note of.
Things will not be square and their not meant to be.Pic 4


Make sure you let this set rock hard before progressing, or things will not end up aligned where they should be at the end.

Remove the next rib from the fret, clean up, Blah Blah you get the idea, repetitive.

This rib has to be set in the next slot in the floor and end up parallel to the first rib.

This is how I dealt with this part of the build:

Scrap balsa, ply, basically any thing you have in your scrap bin that can be used as a measured spacer.

Lay it on the first rib and fit second rib, let it set as long as it all lines up. (More on that later).Pic 5


Ok, keep building up the ribs with ACCURATE spacers in between.

This is how I stacked up the ribs for this section.Pic 6


I kept the ribs aligned by using the square wood stringers supplied and fed them through the holes in the ribs. At a later stage (as will be shown) cocktail sticks work just as well.

("Gandale", Alan has his own use for cocktail sticks) See SOTS porcupine.

Sorry Alan, couldn`t resist.

Apologies, back to the matter in hand.

Ok, when all the ribs are in place and set, remove the spacers/ clamps and things should be nicely set.


Issue 24 works on the same lines and you form the base section.Pic 7


The first rib is set in the same way as before.Pic 8


With square stringers fitted and the base of this next section made this is what they would look like if fitted together.(Not stuck yet).Pic 9


Back to stage 24 and ribs are added the same way as in issue 23, the difference being that issue 24 has a door opening in it, with other detail to be added.

I spaced the ribs using the same method as before, then used the upper and lower door frame sections to space the next ribs correctly. Shown here.Pic 10


A seat base is now fitted inside the door opening, part shown here.Pic 11


A further rib is fitted and I chose to fit this after the seat had been set in place to make the fitting of the seat easier.

You will also see that this is where the cocktail sticks came in handy as aligning aids.Pic 12


A piece of thin brass rod is supplied to make the support legs of the door seat.
The next picture shows a rod in place to make the first support.
When glued in place each support is cut and smoothed to the top level of the seat.Pic 13


Both seat supports in place, just need a clean up.Pic 14


The two main wooden side stringers are now fitted and this section is complete for this stage.Pic 15


Sorry this has been a long update, but this build is pushing me along at a pace. I have more done already but, that`s for another day. The next section did cause me some issues. The first of this build and I`m not blaming the kit, it may well have been me.

I will explain "my" issues in the next update so that anyone else who reads this and then does this build will be able to check and double check, to make sure they get it right.

Many Thanks for your patience on this build update, but you`ll be glad to know that`s it for today.



Should anybody be considering taking this build on and require more detailed pictures, please don`t hesitate.
Contact me via PM and I`ll help all I can.

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)

Another great update Derek, coming together nicely

No complaints from me for a big update Del, keep em coming, it's looking good

Steve

Hi All,

Just finished a full on weekend at work, so thought I`d add another update while I`ve got a day off.

Firstly, thanks to everyone above for looking in and taking time to comment it is always appreciated.

This update starts the build of the rear gunner section, I say starts as this part of the build will change tack dramatically to accommodate easier installation of internal detail.(We`ll see)

First thing to do is make a box section from the relevant parts of the fret of issue 27.


Now, some advise from my experience of this part of the build.

DO NOT glue the box to the fuselage Yet.

My box section was quite a tight fit, but went on without having to use any real force. What I failed to see, was that the glue was covering the fact that the box was not fully inserted into the end frame of the fuselage section, (only by a very, very small amount)but this error of my own making meant that everything to be added on toward the tail end was out of line.



Out came the hot water, cotton buds and new blade on the knife to remove the box.

When cleaned up, I went through a process of building up the tail section using clamps. This proved that the box was too tight a fit, so filed out the locating lugs and slots very carefully until things lined up as they should.



The following picture shows the box fitted to the fuselage section made in issue 24. It is glued at this point.Pic 1


The next picture shows the parts to be fitted in this section.
The parts at this point are rested together, but supported by the insertion of two cocktail sticks through the holes in the airframes.

Cocktail sticks arrowed.Pic 2


When I`d proved everything would fit as it should, I glued it all together.


Ok, it`s time to change direction with this part of the build.

The box section will have two (rivet marked) metal floor plates fitted on it. When done a seat pad will be put on top of the floor plates.

The official build instructions tell you to continue building the rear airframe and when complete fit the floor plates and seat pad.

Problem:

Getting access to where the plates and seat are to be fitted.

Solution: (Unproven at this point)

My aim is to fit the floor plates and seat pad, before continuing with the airframe build.

At this point I jumped to issue 29 picture 24.

First thing to do is make sure the plates fit properly.

They have to fit in between the ribs and the centre line of the plates must meet flat and level. It may mean that you have to make some slight adjustments to the slots in the plates that fit around the airframe ribs.
You also have to make sure that both ends of the two plates end up straight with respect to each other.

Here is a picture of my plates fitted in place.Pic 3


The plates are now ready for rivet marking. (Not done yet)

Will be having a rivet practice first, before marking these plates.

I have since moved on to build the base for the middle gun turret. This is fitted into the airframe made in issue 23.

So, to issue 28 picture 18:

Take the base plate part 124 and the wood strips supplied.(Only one strip shown).Mark an arrow as you can see on part 124. This is for orientation purposes, as this plate is not square and is designed to fit one way only.Pic 4


Following the measuring instructions cut and fit the two short framing pieces.Pic 5


Carry on framing the outer edge of part 124 and you get this.Pic 6


Two very small metal plates are now rivet marked and fitted.

The rivet lines don't line up with the frame they fit to, even in the instruction photos , but unless you intend turning this beast upside down when completed (I wouldn`t recommend it)I don`t think they will ever be seen.Pic 7


The above construction is now fitted (DON`T FORGET - one way only)to the airframe made in issue 23.Pic 8


That`s about all done for today.

One last thing is a picture of progress so far.

Sections are only laid in place, so look a bit wobbly and it no longer fits on my computer table. Hence it`s on the floor with cats banished from the room.

The Lancaster folder by the side is A4 in size, put there as I don`t think you would see a penny in this shot.Pic 9


That`s all for now folk`s as updates now match progress.

Happy Building

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)