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 Rank: Master        Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/09/2011 Posts: 1,312 Points: 4,126 Location: Austria
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She`s looking absolutely beautiful! I also would recommend to put her into some sort of jig to keep the keel straight while planking the hull. Keep up the good work, DaDokta Greetings, Walter
Present builds: Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48
On the shelf: Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....
Completed builds: McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
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 Rank: Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2012 Posts: 1,787 Points: 5,292 Location: Thurso
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I agree, she's looking good and that it would be a good idea to rig up some sort of clamping jig to hold her straight whilst the planking is added although this may be tricky as the plastic covering for the keel is fitted prior to planking. I'm sure we'll think of something. Graeme
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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@DaDokta @Pemberg Hi guys, thanks and yes, you're right, I do need something to keep it all lined up while the cladding is going on. What I've got in mind now is something that will hold the model in an upside-down position and holding the top of the keel frames because work doesn't start on the deck area until most the planking is completed. This will allow almost complete access to the rest of the hull while work is ongoing. Watch this space and I'll see what I come up with Happy building David
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This is a beast, its going to look fantastic when it done
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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@DaveTwin. Thanks, your 'Yamato' is looking fantastic as well, hope you get it finished in time for the show. Happy building David
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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BUILD UPDATE #19B Hi again, and thank you for all the nice comments. I have been to the local DIY shop today and bought some bits and pieces to make a jig for build, and this is what I came up with. Nothing to elaborate, just kept it simple and functional. A piece of white shelving board 4ft x6" x 3/4" (or for those who like metric - 125x15x0.75cm)which I bought at the start of the build to lay out the hull when there was only one side finished. Also used were several packs of 40mm corner braces and a few 'knock-down joints. I used the 'knock-down joints at the bow and in the centre of the hull and the corner braces spaced out equidistant for the rest of the hull. A centre line was made down the length of the board, and I used the joining line between the two halves of the model to line it up with center line. Working in from each end, I used two of my spare frames glued together as a spacing guide to fix the brackets to the board. The model is held quite firmly now and there should be no more trouble with the MDF 'flexing' at each end and I will be able to work on cladding the hull with far more confidence now. Happy building Daviddaffy09 attached the following image(s):
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Nice one, that jig looks like it's up to the job Steve
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 Rank: Master        Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/09/2011 Posts: 1,312 Points: 4,126 Location: Austria
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Nice jig! DaDokta Greetings, Walter
Present builds: Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48
On the shelf: Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....
Completed builds: McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
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Joined: 20/04/2012 Posts: 1,787 Points: 5,292 Location: Thurso
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Nice one David, I will do the same sort of thing for mine. It certainly keeps her straight. Graeme
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 That should do nicely Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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BUILD UPDATE 19C
Hi again, The next consignment of parts - issues 20,21,22 and 23 arrived today (Sat.21st) so more to follow in the next few days. Happy building David
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Hi David, I received my parts today as well. Looking at the issue 20 parts I'm not sure whether the starboard side will need modifying for the torpedo room enhancement or not. Will have to take a closer look to see. Graeme
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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I don't know what to do about mine either Graeme, I think I might leave mine off until after I've fitted the torpedo room 'mod'. Did you take a look at that European forum I mentioned a while back? We could get an idea of what needs modifying by following his lead. He's done a brilliant job of the paintwork on those interiors as well. Here's that link if you missed it:http://www.der-lustige-modellba...-u-96-von-hachette-amatiHappy building David
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Looking at his build the bow plastic parts don't seem to interfere with the enhancement. Think I will drill out the vents like his as well. Graeme
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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BUILD UPDATE 19D
The delivery of my next set of parts has got me thinking. Some of the small slots on the hull (they do have a name but I don't remember what they're called)are open and others are not (see picture). I feel that to give the model more uniformity and authenticity, I have been pondering over whether or not to open up the 'closed' slots in the moulded parts. I've seen it done in a German forum which I found and the results are impressive. So I've tentatively decided to open them up. I have the necessary tools, and as there are only 2 parts each week now, I've got plenty of time to carry out the work on them. Another issue the next few weeks is the assembly of the plastic parts for the keel. I've decided to build them all in one 'session' so that they all line up with each other, but first, the drilling out of the slots (I'm sure one of you guys can tell me what they're called). Happy building Daviddaffy09 attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/08/2010 Posts: 2,771 Points: 8,344 Location: Brighton
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Hi David. She is realy starting to look like a submarine now. you can she her shape. The parts you could mot remenber the names of are the vents used for ballasting the submarine when submerging. look forward to seeing more of your build Ian. Current builds.Hachettes build the bismark,HMS Victory, HMS Hood. Finished Builds Corel HMS Victory cross section.
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 Rank: Master        Groups: Registered
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Hi David,
i guess none of us is looking forward to the drilling of that vents :)
But i think it will make a big difference at the end!
Good luck,
DaDoktaGreetings, Walter
Present builds: Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48
On the shelf: Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....
Completed builds: McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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BUILD UPDATE #20
Well my friends, I finally finished cutting out those ballasting vents. What an endeavour that was, and it's only the start. As you'll see from the photos, there's still a little tidying up to do. Had to use some plastic putty on one of the small slots because I enlarged it too much so had to fill it up and reopen it. The tools I used comprised of: Trumpeter Micro saw: a pin vice with a 0.9mm drill bit: a flat diamond micro file: a 1.2mm cutting broach file, and a round diamond micro file. First, I used the pin vice and drilled out a series of holes in each slot, then reamed them out with the broach file, used the micro saw and cut across the holes. Then I enlarged the slot again with the broach file, and finished off using the flat micro file. The micro file was just small enough to get into the slots to smooth them all off. After all the slots were opened, they were finished off by using the round micro file to contour the ends of the slots. After completing all the work, I used some various grades of 'Micro mesh' to work out any scratches on the surface of the parts. As I said, there's still a little tidying up to do, but all in all, I'm very pleased with the result and I'm glad that I took the time and effort to attempt this alteration and in my opinion, it has made all the difference to the look of the parts. Well that's all for now, I should get some work done on the build in the next few days, so until then, thanks for looking in and a big thank you for the comments. Happy building David daffy09 attached the following image(s):
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I have to agree, well worth the extra effort, its given the ballast vents an much more impressive look. Great efford
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 Rank: Master        Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/09/2011 Posts: 1,312 Points: 4,126 Location: Austria
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David, i love the result of your effort!
Keep the good work going!
WalterGreetings, Walter
Present builds: Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48
On the shelf: Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....
Completed builds: McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
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